Yes. The ‘96 Mustang that I used as a donor car had the Hydroboost brake booster system that used the power steering pump. I swapped it all over to the Roadster and made all new lines.
This just happened to me going to check my fuel pressure. Same exact sypmtoms . What is wierd to me (10 years of being a automotive tech) is thaat the misfire is only one 1 cylinder thats what throwing me off ihave the same wxact codes you have same concern .
Man mine did same thing I went got gas, rode in woods almost all day came down off long steep hill to the road next to my brother's farm luckily.. but check engine came on and it would start go about 30 feet die. Kept doing it till I got it to his house, almost didn't get it on a trailer. But The fuel pump never thought of that. I'm check it tomorrow I got a gauge. Thanks for video.
@ChicanoUturn lol well.. I checked fuel pump pressure and sure enough was 30psi if I was lucky. Pulled pump filter was black. I haven't ordered a new one yet. Going to tonight actually. Planning a ride next weekend I hope.
@@Crider-ih2irohokay good to know it was just the pump! Ill be checking mines in a bit once the sun goes down . Im hoping mines the pump as well . Ive checked everything except the pump.
I think there was also a fuse block in the front fairing and some fuses in back where the battery was. The exact fuse that blew I don't really remember.
I have a 23 Gladiator Sport as well and everything I’ve read and seen says it has a 22 gallon tank but I have yet to be able to put more than 15 gallons in it at once
I,d love to build the Mk lll. Get a crate 289, a five speed tranny with a stock rear end. No roll bar! Just a nice weather daily dtiver. But you got to remember,, that is the basics of that car that made history! For the MklV,, a 302 would be very perod correct! I think the Shelby team won at LeMans with the Daytona coupe twice with the 302!! To me the big blocks are dangerous in those small light cars!
Apparently there are posts on some forums where some people have added power locks with a key fob. They list all the part numbers you need to accomplish this.
Hello, First, thank you for this video! I'm actually looking for J-Pipes with Catalic converters for my Cobra. Where did you found that? Do you have a link? Thanks for your help ;-)
Not a problem at all. The j-pipes with the catalytic converters came with the kit from Factory Five. I want to say I think you can purchase a set through them.
Wondering about the rivets.... while they're definitely the cheapest, easiest and lightest way to attach body panels, how about in the long term? Did you have any annoying rattles? Has anyone ever tried using different hardware or maybe running a small bead of silicone between the chassis and body panels?
They have you apply a bead of silicone in between the panels before you rivet them. It's all in the manual. I didn't have any rattles. I wouldn't worry about it, they've been using rivets to hold together airplanes and race cars for decades. I haven't heard of any other hardware used. I guess you could weld the panels but that wouldn't be very time effective and if you ever needed to remove the panels, it would be quite difficult.
@@jawindustries I have this bad habit of over engineering things... welding is a non starter, rivets are definitely the way to go. Have you had experience with other kit cars? Factory Five seems to make a nice kit and we'll probably order one. I did consider a Superformance Cobra, which is a much nicer finished product but not available as a kit.
@@ajwinslow1 Don't feel like you're alone. I tend to do it myself most of the time. I have no experience with other kits. This was my first experience with a Factory Five, even driving one. They are well figured out. I would definitely try and go sit in one and see how well you fit behind the driver's seat. One of the things I was surprised by was that with the body and doors on, my shoulder touches the door when it's closed. And I'm not a big person but I do have wide shoulders.
@@jawindustries I had the privilege of driving a real Cobra around Mid Ohio several years ago. My shoulder touched the door and it was really not a good car except for the fact that it accelerated like a Saturn V rocket. I'm trying to find someone that has built the Factory Five GTM, but there doesn't seem to be many around
I've been planning a kit car project with my grandkids and, almost by default, we've decided on a Factory Five Cobra. I'd like to use things like tubular a-arms and a steering box that they can heel toe with. Do they sell a kit with the higher quality parts instead of the donor car?
Yes, you would want the complete kit and not the base kit then. The complete kit comes with tubular lower a-arms in the front and the optional pedal box.
It's a race and as you can see there are people there already assisting them. Plus, what are my 2 little fire extinguishers gonna really do for a blaze that big.
@@Wildtamsonif i was racing and saw someone crash infront of me i would call on ny radio asking if he was okay by his team, we are still informed on the drivers safety, it would actually be significantly more dangerous to pull over on the side of the circuit? where are flying car that are gonna hit you and your car u park to the side with lol why dont u watch a few rally or a few f1 crashes lol
That engine and transmission have been around a long time, with a lot of the Chrysler products, and pretty trouble free. I've had 5 cars with that combo without any problems.
18:36 Play this segment at 2x and compare to the beat of Memphis Tennessee's Project Pat's 2001 song Chickenhead [/watch?v=-XaUiMcDFZs&t=4] it's hilarious
All these "lift" videos selling shocks. Ford engineers got it right at the factory. GM engineers did / still do similar build scenario with some it's vehicles which are top sellers.
Ford engineers got it right at the factory for towing and payload. But, I wanted to tune for better drivability. So I "lifted" the nose of the truck to better balance it for what I wanted.
@@jawindustries Rain storms and snow. Have one such vehicle from Ford and had another GM. Both champions on wet roads, bad weather, just as they came from factory.
This is the link to the wheel and tire combo on lmr.com. Front is +24mm and Rear is +20mm lmr.com/item/WTK-1007CBG2/mustang-sve-saleen-wheel-tire-kit-nitto-g2-17x9-10-94-04
Looking for similar in SoCal after seeing your video! Hard to find max tow package :(. And waiting for the best deal. Spoke to a few dealers and they are still trying to ad dealer add ons etc. ugh.
It definitely isn’t easy to find the max tow package. The dealer that had this one had a bunch of dealer ad ons but this truck had been sitting there since Dec ‘22 and I told them I refuse to pay the add ons. I told them the deal I wanted and they were reluctant but then I just got up and walked out and they came out in the parking lot and told me we had a deal.
@1023llc It was only because I have a UTV and trailer I tow often with and the truck I had before this one was a ranger with a 7500 lb towing capacity. So I felt I should get a Gladiator with the same towing capacity.
I put a electric fuel pump on my sc28 and it started up on the first second I hope your works but I missing a lots of parts I love to finish it some day thanks
So far so good. I have about 10,700 miles on it already. Only had it for about 4 months. Towed a bit with it, done some off-road driving, and used it as a daily.
@@jawindustries Good!! I test drove a max tow freedom yesterday just to see how the 4:10 gears felt in a non- Rubicon unit. I like it a lot and i felt it had some grunt to it.
@JM21999 I tow a small utility trailer with my UTV on it mostly and it does just fine. Going up grades it slows down a bit but I just manually shift it and stay patient.
How all is going well with your ride. I pulled the trigger on my 3rd Gladiator(21 sport,21 overland diesel). It is a 2024 Max Tow Sport Anvil. I am impressed with the updated quality. Been added soft touches to it to give it that rugged look. No frills fun!! Love it
Planning the kit for my '23 Willys, great vid!.. next is the 33" tires on bead locks and the metal bumpers w/winch. and a bunch of D rings 'cuz they look cool.. the best thing about the Jeep is what you can do to it.. almost an obligation.
Just got ‘23 Sport myself. Pretty much the same as your minus the max tow package. Love it. Absolutely agree it’s an old fashioned good pickup that is also a Jeep.
I just added this kit to my new ‘23 Willys. Went the entire 1.5”.Good quality and well documented instructions. One thing to add, remove the brake line brackets at the lower spring buckets and use panel clip pliers and temporarily remove the clips for the 4x4 lead and ABS leads. This will give you plenty of axle drop and ensure you don’t damage the brake lines and leads. You will notice the reduction in caster angle (not sure how much it is affected). I’m adding the Mopar 2.5” kit lower control arms to dial it back in. Also, when you are finished the axle will have shifted to the drivers side by about 3/8s to 1/2”. Barely noticeable visually and I don’t detect any driving issues from it.
Back to the basics!!Before I purchase my diesel gladiator I owned a sport.I miss the simplicity of it sometimes.Next Gladiator I buy it will be a basic sport!! Congrats brother
When I was building my replica 55 T bird from Shay, back in the 80's the most disappointing part was finding none of the body parts really fit right. I was really lucky to have a friend who was really good at making Corvettes look good. When it was all said and done we still had the passenger door that never fit completely right but it wasn't that noticeable.
Yes. After the spacers were installed, I took it into the dealer so they could check the alignment and make adjustments if necessary. It did feel a bit off to me when I drove it after the install.
I had the same concern with the brake reservoir. I was told by people with a lot more experience than me that it is still doable, but you need a hose & funnel. I did the relocated reservoir.
I figure I'll change them out to remote reservoirs at some point. I shouldn't really need to add any fluid right now as I just bled and topped off the system.
That is the exact set up I want. When I was building it online it was coming out around $37k plus the destination fee. I went to the local dealer with my printout with all the RPO codes. They were like "There is no way it's that cheap!" When they tried ordering it on their end it was around $39k. I never did order one though and now with Bidenomics the price and interest rates are way too high. Love the Jeep though!!
About to do the same on my JT Willys. I got an additional 1/2" spacer if I decide to do 2" up front. The reason for that is that I'm also installing the Rubicon metal bumper and a Warn winch. I'm afraid all that weight will make the 1.5" look like a 1" leveling. I also got geo correction brackets, longer sway bar links and an adjustable track bar. I want to dial the geometry back to factory specs.
Have you considered adding a front or rear locker? If so, what would you consider the route to go? Air lockers or electronic? I have the exact same package... ours are so exactly similar down to the hood spring twang upon opening lmfao
I have not considered yet as the Gladiator is my tow vehicle to get my UTV to where I would do more extreme off-roading. But, if I were to put lockers in mine I'd probably go with the Eaton E-Locker. I'd even see if I could get the switch from a Rubicon or Mojave and install it in the same spot.
