This channel is dedicated to the DIY stuff happening in my garage. It will focus on heating with diesel heaters, fabricating stuff, working on trucks and motorcycles and other mechanical things.
Please note: What is presented on this channel covers what I did to purchase, install, modify, fix, and use something. You should check your own local codes and consult a professional prior to using any item or performing any action demonstrated on this channel. The presenter makes no guarantee as to the correctness or accuracy of anything presented here. The information presented on this channel is for entertainment purposes only.
TL/DR: Don't do what I do, I don't know what I'm doing.
The same here! I cant tweak the tonenet or collection amps with Tonex One run the software as I did with the original one. I need a other interface audio to download and tweak new amps.
The speed/output of the heater doesn’t make a difference as to whether or not this works. The startup process is where the most current is drawn. In this case, it’s right on the edge for 10a for a brief moment, but my powerbank handles it. I’ve done it several times successfully.
@@TheGergeDIY I was asking this because you made a video using the AC port to run the diesel heater. I thought you couldn't make it running using the DC port (without tripping the fuse) and somehow found a trick to make it work. But if I understand correctly it could've worked using DC only from the beginning.
@@TheGergeDIY Another question, does it still work if the battery is at less than 50% when starting the heater? Because as the voltage is lower it may need more amps to output the 130~140w necessary for startup if I understand it correctly
@@teiva - yes, you're correct, I did have that issue. I'm not really sure what changed, it may have been a firmware update in the Bluetti EB3A? I am now able to run off the DC side of the Bluetti though, which is awesome 'cause it runs twice as long. I'm also not using the cigarette plug any long, rather one of the DC outlets just below it. It's much more secure.
@@teiva - it does, I've started it below 50%. I think mine is using almost 100w at it's max draw during startup. I do make sure to leave some left over for shutdown, which also draws hard on the battery, but not as long as during startup.
The ToneX One is very tempting at 180 bucks new but watching a bunch of videos on them I figured it was a niche use item so I went ahead with the big ToneX. Just got it this week been getting lost in all the stuff. Right now Amplitude 5 Max is only 99 bucks and if you bought your tonex and register it you get jam points and can take 15% off that so I went ahead and did that so after tax Amplitude 5 Max full verion was only 91 bucks.
I've been using the original Tonex for a year. I play live a few times a month. I have not had to do any deep edits at all live. Ever. I spent a few hours when I got it downloading amps. But I have not used the software for almost a year now. I found the 3 amps I like and I use only those 3.
I've been really interested in the ToneX models and have tried them numerous times but not pulled the trigger yet. I appreciated your good considerations. Thanks!
I got the same set up ...was thinking TONEX One but then I found used OG TONEX for $250 , could not be happier . Had a Kemper had a Headrush and for the money TONEX seriously kicks butt , simple and just Amp tones are killer ...I'm using Jason Sadites and amalgam captures...some TJ as well but gravitating towards these 2 guys . One thing I found most important to use proper Input Trim based on who made the captures . TJ and Amalgam use +8.5 while Jason Sadites is at -3 .... Good luck mate \-/ Rock On
You got a great deal for $250! I've got some JS and Amalgam captures as well, great stuff. Agreed about the Input Trim settings. There's another reason I like the OG Tonex: I get a capture pack and load the whole thing on the pedal, then I try 'em out easily with my gigging PA and pedal board. Much easier than trying rig it up through the TONEX software on the laptop. I do like the idea of the T1, but it just wasn't working for me.
@@TheGergeDIY yeah plus I noticed it is all about the play back source so if you gigging you should be try these tones on your gig volume and PA not the software that WILL always sound very different….. OG TONEX is the way to go 3 amp tones at the feet and all the pedals you might need of your choice \_/ I ended up rinsing Wah + 3 TONEX amps + Tube Scream + chorus ALL i truly need Live simple mindlessly enjoying playing live ;) !!!!
The manual states that it has an oil capacity of 1.16 quarts (1.1L). I didn't measure, just made sure the generator was level and filled it 'til the dip stick indicated it was at the correct level. Here's a link to the manual if you need to look anything up: cdn.westinghouseoutdoorpower.com/owners_manuals/WGen9500_manual_web.pdf
I believe we have a 10g cord that is 25' to get into the house. We also have a cutover power transfer switch that's being installed this summer so we can run part of our house directly from the generator.
Nice "find". I just picked this up for a portable option when jamming with the brother's band. I've been heavily invested in IK for years (including ToneX), but only for recording. My main live setup uses the HX Stomp, but that rig is tied up and takes a while to breakdown and transport, so I want something even smaller for my 1x12 rig (an old Fender Champion/Patriot set up as essentially a powered cab). I love the idea of having a single cab/single pedal setup that weighs a total of about 30lbs for getting to the jam space with little-to-no warning.
Many thanks for this! None of the other reviews I've seen mentioned this feature. Tonex One would free up space on my pedal board however I decided against it thinking it was limited to two captures only. I have the full-size version and use all three captures for live use. Turns out I can do the same with the smaller version, which is ace. Thanks again. All the very best to you!
I tried to charge my tool battery this same way with the Bluetti AC200 MAX. The Bluetti was at 78% when I plugged in my 80V tool battery to charge. Went back half hour later and the Bluetti was 100% charged. Not what I was trying to do. I'm still not sure how to charge my tool battery now. AC was on.
Not familiar with the AC200MAX. That said, if you have the battery charger plugged into an AC OUT, it most definitely shouldn't be pulling power from the appliance it's hooked to.
George You're over filling your generator with oil, it suppose to show full on the "dip-stick" without screwing it in. Another thing is, you are making a mistake of changing your oil with synthetic oil, you do that only after your generator had its "run-in" time for certain amount of hours but not before, it harms the engine, check how long it is the "run-in" on this engine. Check this facts out. I agree with not using gasoline. Thanks for the video.
Yes, right now it is not starting when I click the battery switch on. It might be an issue with the switch and needs to be replace. I had added some oil to it and then it just didn’t start after that.
***Question for anyone who knows*** @TheGergeDIY I have the above impact wrench. Which is a monster in weight. The thing IS heavy. So I just got this the other day NEW from mainly that store that sells them we all know of. In my unbox I see in the sealed handbook/manual plastic is a little zip bag. Inside is two parts the same. Looks like a square block end, a shaft with a spring on it. The end I can't explain. Looks like a gold color tiny saw blade. It took me a good while in research to at least get a hit as- "BRUSHES". Would that be correct that the part is BRUSHES? Last, in a nutshell can someone please tell me what that is and what that part does and what the wrench will do when I need that new part in acting up?
@josephbaumgardner - I don't recall seeing any parts in the box. I also don't remember unboxing it, or what happened to the manual, ha ha. I'll have to look in the garage though, 'cause I usually throw the manuals for stuff in a drawer.
I wonder if using an extension cord with smaller gauge affects the performance, cause mine really struggles to remove the lugnuts of my car that are torqued to 80 lb/ft. I use my cordless Milwaukee impact driver now, it doesn’t even sweat it.
Well, it can't help. My outlet is a fairly straight shot to the breaker box. I've yet to have a nut this impact gun can't crack. The aluminum lug nuts on my ram truck are torqued to 130ft lbs and it pops 'em off no problem. My father-in-law's truck in this video had previously been torqued by a garage, so I'm certain they were tight. I didn't use a breaker bar, just the impact gun.
@@TheGergeDIY I know about the torque on your RAM, that's why I'm surprised mine struggles with an 80 lb/ft lugnut. Thanks for your response, great video btw.
@@TheGergeDIY I finally bought a 10ft 10awg heavy duty extension cord and was able to remove my cars lugnuts with no problem. It was the thickness and length of the cord that affected the power on the impact wrench for sure. Lesson learned!
Great vid though my electrician chops are lacking. Looking to get one of these similar to yours for ice fishing. Been a warm year so not looking to bring truck or quad into ice so looking to bring lightest battery I can haul onto ice with me on a sled. Have any recommendations for type of battery that might do the trick to get me a few hours until I get it home to charge? One of these deep cycle jobs?
I don’t have one, but I think one of those lifepo batteries would be lighter than a leaded deep cycle. The thing is though, lithium loses efficiency below 32f and also can’t charge. Leaded does too, but not as bad. I have videos on the channel about the bluetti eb3a - that might work for you? They are lithium and also suffer in the cold; something to consider.
I use my 20/60 volt DeWalt tool battery to power mine using a step down converter for a golf cart, works great and they don't weigh much. One 5ah battery will last 4-5 hours depending on the settings. For camping its great not having to haul around a 60 pound battery. A small folding solar panel to charge batteries through the day and your golden for a camping adventure.
@@ryderhunter7547 Use the battery adapter I sent the link for, it has four posts for the battery connection and bridges the battery for the 60 volts, hook up an inline fuse and run the power and ground wires to the stepdown converter that I sent the link to. Then run your power and ground wires from the output of the converter to the wire studs on your heater... If you want it to operate and shutdown before the battery is dead, you need a low voltage disconnect as well... I will send a link to it as well
@@ryderhunter7547 and I used a 48 volt relay to run the low power shut off from the battery connector side, otherwise you won't be able to set the disconnect voltage because out of the converter it's a constant 12.4 volts, and you want to set the voltage higher... Just test a battery that shuts itself off and see what the voltage is and set the disconnect a few volts above that, to ensure complete shutdown and cool off...
Pretty disappointed with my EB3A. I wanted to use it to power some 12V LED shed lights that incorporates a motion sensor. That way when I opened the shed door the motion sensor would turn the lights on & I have it set to turn off after 5mins of no motion detected. I connected a 100W solar panel to top the battery off and thought I was set. With the EB3A's 12VDC turned on it used about a third of the battery power. So I disconnected the shed lights, charged the EB3A to 100%, turned the 12VDC on & left it for 24hrs. With no load attached it drained down to 68%. I contacted Bluetti and they claim that it wasn't unusual to experience "self-consumption" like that. So a couple of cloudy days & "self-consumption" will drain my EB3A whether I go in the shed or not. I'm curious if your EB3A has the same self-consumption too? Thanks for allowing my vent.😂
What I’ve found is I need a very sunny day to get the eb3a to charge. Yes, just leaving it on consumes power. I suspect this is due to the Bluetooth and whatever else is going on in the battery. It does seem to work well when on and connected to something to run it. And, when it’s off, it consumes nothing. For this reason, I’d recommend going with a LiFePO battery for a dedicated circuit like you’re describing.
@@TheGergeDIY After 3-4 days of research I've come to that same conclusion. I was just looking at batteries & charge controllers... got to figure how much self-consumption a charge controller will have, choose a battery with/without BMS built in, 100Ah enough? All the reviews/forums never seem to have these same concerns. I have come to the conclusion that Bluetooth isn't necessary for my application but I'd like an LCD display to monitor the battery. Ugh, I'm making a mountain out of a molehill with this project. Thanks for your time & reply.
That's one of the reasons. In a garage, the air going into the burn chamber might contain combustible fumes from things normally stored in garages, including vehicles. It's for this reason that I'm working to configure my diesel heater to bring in combustible air from outside. As far as bringing in air from inside to the combustion chamber to then venting it outside; it does force cold outside air into the building. The effects are there, but I believe they are not that impactful and offset by the heat being produced by the heater. Most folks running wood or pellet stoves in a house don't have outside air fed into the burn chamber. Some people DO have their stoves plumbed like that, but I don't know many.
Hello… Do you have a battery backup connected just in case you lose power. From my understanding, the heater needs to go through a cool down period or it could overheat. If so, how did you connect the backup battery so it automatically kicks in when power is lost? Thanks!
When running on ac (as in this video), I do not have a battery backup. In other videos on the channel, I use a bluetti eb3a to power the heater. In this configuration, the power bank could be plugged in the wall and function as an UPS. As far as losing power while running, it’s not good, and I’ve had it happen. In my case no damage occurred to the heater. I wouldn’t do it on purpose, but I’m not overly concerned about it either. I did see some exhaust come out the air intake.
The Bluetti was at the limits of what it was willing to output on its 12V output. I'm a bit surprised that the DC efficiency is so bad when its only pulling 10W though. I think it might be easier to just directly connect a 12V LiFePO4 battery to the diesel heater and then have the battery on a battery maintainer/charger. So, any 12.8V LiFePO4 battery and a Victron Blue Smart 12V charger. (That's a unit that will automatically float the battery, provide load support when AC is available, and re-bulk when necessary, and it is programmable via Victron's bluetooth app). Or, alternatively, trickle charge the battery with a solar panel and charge controller (Victron smart 75/15 or 100/20 charge controller). For example, a little 20Ah 12.8V LiFePO4 battery can discharge at 20A, which ought to be enough for the heater startup, and has no significant efficiency losses. 20Ah x 12.8V = 256Wh / 10W = 25.6 hours of run time. And a bigger battery, like 50Ah or 100Ah... now you are talking 2-4 days of continuous run time. -Matt
I don't disagree with you. There is a bit of "DIY" involved using a separate battery and charger (the victron isn't overly expensive, but it's certainly not cheap). The bluetti also has a built-in inverter for AC, solar hookup, etc... it's a bit more of a convenient grab-and-go package. Cost-wise, I think it's pretty close. I do agree that the bluetti should run longer - but also take into account the startup usage, and I'm going to guess the bluetooth might use up a little power as well.
Make sure you have the latest firmware installed on the EB3A. Alternatively, you can get an ac->dc power supply and run off the ac side. It uses more power, but it does work.
@TheGergeDIY it was updated and luckily I had an inverter that I brought with us and ran it that way. Uses way more power it only ran for 5 hours on the ac side with the inverter
@@stevenbrown2039yeah it does waste a lot of power doing it that way. I did see my current draw jump to just over 10a on startup but it was brief. The bluetti hung in there.
@diona-3642 - I believe an E03 error is a glow plug fault. It could also be the heat sensor throwing the error. Do you have an alternate way to power it to rule out whether or not it's getting adequate power from the EB3A?
@@TheGergeDIY We’re going to try a different way! I got a group of camping buddies that run theirs using a AC 110V/220V to DC 12V 30A 360W Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply Transformer Adapter
Good job! Lead acid battery? How many amps? I've got a desiel heater by vevor and am looking forward to hooking it up. Just want to do it once, and do it right the first time. Thanks!
