Chris Tribe offers courses in various aspects of woodwork from his workshop in Ilkley. Chris is a professional furniture maker with a passion for passing on his skills through his teaching. The videos on his channel give a taste of his teaching style.
What do you mean by a "wobbly saw" Ignatious? Is it a problem with getting it to saw straight vertically? Sometimes this can be because the teeth are sharper on one side, usually due to hitting a nail perhaps.
You just ruined the video at the end saying "once in a lifetime"you need to flatten the back.How about Japanese chisels that have a deliberate hollow to allow for the fresh flattening and also to prevent any rocking.The Japanese do not align their chisel backs with the handles either . So making a very slight micro bevel on the back of western chisels is miles closer than a Japanese chisel .Chisels are not planes and the backs will always wear down just like the bevel . Show how you flatten a back that is not already hollowed.
Hi Martin, sorry about the delay in replying, only just spotted your query. In this video I show how to set up and adjust a plane ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Vz8rjp5Ehx0.html
Why do you think it is necessary to start with 80grit on a new chisel, I would expect the machining to be closer to 180grit, it seems counter intuitive
It's not so much to do with the scratch pattern as the flatness. Fair enough on a new Lie Neilsen or other up market tool which will be pretty flat you could start with a finer grit but many new chisels are not particularly flat so you need a courser grit to achieve flatness quickly. It doesn't take long to work through the grits once you have achieved the initial flatness.
Good advice. Like a lot of things in the trade I have adapted over the years. For more years than I remember I made do with one stone a Norton combination that I made a coffin box at College and still have it along with a replacement stone same ilk but not used. Now I have Diamond stone combination 350/1000, Water stones 3000/7000. I still use sandpaper from time to time and stopped free hand and went over to a Veritas Mk II along with some its attachments especially in narrow chisel honing. Tried a few honing guides from cheap to dear and settled on the one mentioned. Again like a lot of things in Wood tools it is down to preference and how you want your tools to be. My journeyman and other old Joiners would be amused at what goes on now as best practice a Norton combination done their needs and grit choice was not a big part of sharpening, it was to get an edge that did not chip or loose its hone. Its been like that back to the first person who cut wood and needed to fashion it.
the collet and bit both get stuck in the router. both 1/4” and 1/2” collet setups get stuck in my milwaukee router. it’s all looks smooth, and clean but gets stuck. the nut slips off the collet now where it did not do that before, i’m installing it into a nice JessEm lift, and thus is going to be a nightmare if it gets stuck. the one thought i have us that they call it is stuck in the collapse position. That’s why the collet is not holding onto the nut anymore. i don’t think the tension from the collet is enough to release itself from the router because it’s a taper and not, let’s say a 45 degree angles where it could push itself out. this is do baffling. please let me know if you have any thoughts on this. thanks for the video.
Hi Gino. I am not sure that I fully understand the problem. However I do know that there can be problems with the collet sticking if you do not fully insert the collet into the nut before screwing it on. The collet should click into place, this may require some effort, perhaps pressing down on the nut with the collet on a firm surface. If you don't do it that way and instead put the collet into the shaft then screw the nut on it will force the collet into the taper causing it to stick. Hope that helps but not sure it does!
Excellent content so good and well explained I now understand the importance of face side and face edge And why it’s critical that they are on they inside, because that is where the mating faces (of the joints) are Outside faces are just open to fresh air so to speak more for aesthetic value than accuracy Thank you 🙏 Quick question. Would you ever make a square corner and mark it up, and reference from it?
Thanks for the question David. I am not sure what you mean by a square corner. Early on in the vid I talk about creating two faces square with each other but I guess that is not what you are asking. If by square corner you mean squaring up an end then yes, after creating face side and edge and dimensioning width and thickness I would then cut to length, squaring the ends to the face side and edge. I using hand tools I would use a shooting board for this. Not sure it that answers your question.
@Chris Tribe Hi Chris thank you for replying, Yes squaring one end or both ends is what I meant (sorry I didn’t explain myself very well in my original question) you answered it perfectly anyway. I enjoyed your video and I look forward to watching more, thank you for sharing you skills an$ knowledge.you have my admiration
Yes. It's just a bit more time consuming. You could make the marks for one side of the mortice and tenon then reset the gauge to do the other side. You should get a well fitting joint as long as you make sure to do all your marking from the same face.
Very nice, Thank you. Question: I've always maintained a curve on the front of the cap iron, It never occurred to me, to make the very front flat, as you did, I will try it. Do you notice a difference, or is it just the way you prefer to do it ? Also: You picked up a new subscriber, thanks again.
Excellent video. Thank you for your patience, clear demonstration and for sharing your expertise. I shall follow your advice and practice to (hopefully) enhance my own skills.
Hi Chris, thanks for this video. My 1/2" collet is actually stuck inside the Router Spindle. The Bit has come out easily enough but the collet is stuck firm. The Router is brand new, I've only used it twice. Have you any idea how I can remove the collet without damaging it?
Oh Dear Peter! I had this happen to me once before but unfortunately cannot remember how I solved the issue. I wonder if you could tighten a small jubilee clip (as they are called in UK) round the collet to squeeze it up and so loosen it in the spindle. This problem can arise if you don't engage the collet with the collet nut before assembling. You should be able to press the collet home in the nut and hear it click into place then screw the nut on the spindle. If you just place the collet into the spindle then tighten the nut over it you can get the stuck collet problem. Not sure how helpful that was, please let me know how the solve it.
Well I solved my issue. I loosened the nut almost all the way before it comes off, then tapped on it with a wrench. After tapping several times on the nut from either side, the collet came loose and I could then slip a bit in.
Thanks for the query Elroy. When preparing pieces for a project you should plane two adjacent faces straight and also square with each other, these are known as the face side and face edge. I suppose it doesn't matter which is which but usually the wider surface is the face side and the narrower the face edge. Once you have these faces prepared and marked you should reference all measuring and marking off these faces.
