Very nice design. Looking at how you set it up, I am wondering if you could have incorporated a skid plate under the bottom bracket extending below the change-ring? Seeing how you design the bike so well, I think a bit of your design element could have easily added a skid plate design to match the bike... just a thought.
Is that the Chinese lathe? Looks to be cutting well. :o) So many multi stage shocks available now. I wonder if hydraulic bump stops have come to bikes yet? They are ace for the, “uh oh, I regret my last choice and it’s too late to correct it” situations :D
@@tonymighalls9667 my poor description there, it’s a short hydraulic buffer that that only kicks in on the last bit of travel. It stops the main shock bottoming out like a rubber one would. They go ace with soggy gas springs because you get a great ride without risking the expensive gas shock. I never got that far, but they are nice 👌
Awesome build there dude. I take it you’re a welder fabricator by trade? What did you do as far as heat treatment / stress relieving? That always seems to be the deciding factor when people homebuild frames in steel alloys rather than ally it seems.
Thanks, yeah I’m a fabricator by trade. I did heat treat this, although I’ve got no way of testing whether it’s back to full hardness. Standard anneal then soak process and just hope it’s worked, second frame so far and they’ve both been ok. Lucky enough to have ovens where I work that I can use.
I went with steel. 44mm straight steer tube. I kinda cheeped out. The first dropouts that I made were through axle until I realized how expensive through axle wheels are. I remade them quick release. The tapered forks are a bit more expensive as well. I figured I'd just get one frame under my belt before going all out
Really cool. Would love to see a multi part video on how you go from plain tubing to a frame! If you don't want to be talking on camera, maybe take the tofu autoworks approach?
I was surprised with how much interest the last video got, kinda did make me wish I had gone more in depth with it, I do plan on making a single pivot full suspension bike in the future. It might be a while before I start that one though 😂, I’ve just been banging these together on iMovie from clips. I might try talking, I think I sound very monotone but it might help some people sleep lol😂. I’ll check out this tofu autoworks thanks! 🤘
This is a good question, it kinda seems like for where I work and what equipment I have 7005 might actually be easier for me to work with and could be stronger in the long run, this can be age hardened over 6 months but the artificial ageing process seems easier too. Might use this material next time to be honest! 👍🏻
@tonymighalls9667 I saw a 7075 aluminum frame online about a year ago. It obviously wasn't welded, though (zinc). It was held together with some kind of adhesive and bolts.
@tonymighalls9667 Fair enough. Last time I looked a Thomson riser was almost 💰300.00⭐️; which would be close to 💰400.00 🍁. Their 3/2.5 Titanium seat posts are over 💰300.00⭐️ and their Titanium riser bars over 💰300.00⭐️🤨😳🤯
Mostly stuff I had knocking around, saint 9 speed mech, xt cassette, zee cranks, 150mm revelation fork, ns wheels which look exactly the same as some spank rims I’ve got, Hayes a4 brake on the rear and a shimano on the front currently
@tonymighalls9667 A 7000 series aluminum Thomson stem, seat post, seat post collar, and their 7050 aluminum riser bars would look Great on your bike😎🤘🤘. They've had this coating process since I believe 2018 (that I just learned about) that now gives their 7000 series aluminum stems, seatpost, seat post collars, and I believe their 7050 aluminum riser bars (but not their very pri💰ey but also VERY cool 3/2.5 Titanium seat posts or their riser bars😁👍👍) cool colours. They have a green one that doesn't look very cool, and their Glacier series, which actually does look c💧💧l🤘🤘. I also followed like yours their RU-vid channel🤘🤘; I'm hopeful they reply back. I told them how I learned of their company/products. Way....back....in 2010 I was looking for a 130mm stem. I was looking through the parts catalog at our now closed bike shop. I asked the owner about what was the Thomson 10 degree rise black Elite stem, and he replied, "Thomson makes awesome stuff!." Since then, I've been a Huge fan of their products. In 2018 I finally bought their 410mm beautifully cnc machined black Elite seat post for 💰145.00🍁 to go with the 💰141.00🍁 Elite stem.
1:41 tubes hate having the stress of other tubes loaded onto the top or bottom faces. Those chain stay tubes should be mounted to the sides of the down tube at a minimum, but they will fatigue no matter what
The plan is to ride it for a few months and then place it back in the jig and see if anything’s moved or cracked, I understand what your saying with the chainstays being in the side and the way the load is spread I’ll keep checking this. Cheers for bringing this up. 👍🏻
Thank you, I’m not going to be making any frames to sell currently, that’s not to say I won’t ever make any in the future. Not until I’m 110% sure that these won’t fail anyway. I think the interest is great, it’s really flattering and if I do plan on making a few to sell I will post something up in the future for sure. I would say if you ever had the chance to get a cheap tig and have a go, it’s super satisfying to see the end result. There may be a build vid of another frame soon too.
I want one. Any chance you would make another frame and an idea what you might charge? Might be beyond my budget, but worth asking. Kinda inspiring me to get a cheap tig setup and do a chromoly bike🤔 I subscribed. Looking forward to your next build. 👍😎
Originally for aesthetics, but i was also thinking less bends and I could keep them slightly wider and hopefully that would keep a stiffer rear end with a brace on the seat tube to help with that. It also doesn’t seem to get any chain slap but yeah mainly because it looks different and cool. 👍🏻
awsome !! If this frame was in mass production, I would definitely buy it.(: What do you think about its durability? Do you think it can withstand freeride or big ramps? Or how would it be to make the same frame from 4130 chromoly?
Cheers, I’m glad you like it. So I’ve never built a frame before this so it’s all a learning experience, I would like to think it’s pretty durable but it’s all “r&d” at the minute. So I originally wanted to build this from chromoly but with unlimited alu tube it was just the cheapest option at the time for me. I think chromoly would be easier in some ways because there’s no heat treat involved. But more difficult to weld well for me being more used to working with alu.
@@tonymighalls9667 It's great compared to the prototype, my friend, I heard that 4130 chromo can be welded easily, maybe you can use it in your next try, great job, keep improving 💪🔥
I really like the way the raised chain stays avoid any tyre clearance issues, I'm not sure why that isn't more common. I have my own dreams where the down tube runs from the top of the headtube and the seat stays run all the way to the bottom of the head tube but now it has raised chain stays. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you very much, yeah the plan was to see if I could just make one that works and learn from all the issues that arise then make a more refined version, I have made a smaller frame based on an inspired hex which I’m still buying parts for to build up but it should appear here finished some time hopefully 😂 ill do another build video for version 2 and maybe a run down of what I learned from v1! Thanks again for watching.
Thank you. Yes I did, I have an oven where I work. I did a fair bit of research online and asked a few people what they do and followed that. I’ve not got the expensive equipment to test if it’s exactly t6 but it’s pretty stiff!
I was lead to believe that where the weld area is it will soften the tube and create areas of tension and stress until its annealed and then re treated?
@@tonymighalls9667you are right - if u choose to weld mayerial, that was heat treated before, you will loose that heat treatment in heat affected zone of weld, thus losing strength. Proper heat treatment after weld can indeed improve strenght of construction. If i am right, most of bicycle frames are not heat treted after welding due to high cost of it. Instead of hest treatemtn you can use more material (longer or thicker weld area) to counter loss of strenght - it is cheaper option. Can you tell me how u heat treated it?
Yeah I’ll explain the method I used, from what I read from various places in the net it was best to anneal the frame to relax all the stress from the weld joints at around 480 c then quenched it as quickly as I possibly could, then realigned the frame in the jig because the rapid quench slightly distorted it, then I placed it back in the oven and treated it at 210 c for around about 8 hours and then left it in the oven to slowly cool overnight, I’m not 100% sure it’s t6 but i will strip the frame and check it back in the jig to see if anything’s moved. If you have any advice for heat treating it would be much appreciated thanks! 👍🏻
