Great video! Dunno why it only just came up in my feed, but that's RU-vid for ya😆 The best edged tools I have are all cast steel. Sure, the fancy pants modern steels are good but there is something missing... Might just be the Luddite in me but I don't seem to need to sharpen up my old Matheison or Ward irons as often as my contemporary ones.
Hey there friend it’s 12:30 at nite your vid popped up = you got your ship together for sure = iam 73 yrs old bin wood working sense I was around 9yrs old =my grand father was a woods man cutting trees that a 6’cross cut w 18:30 ould not cut= he taught his sons about all that he new = then they taught me , they showed me everything about planes =every thing is spot on correct that you put in your vid = you are one of the select few that is telling the truth sir = God be with you sir = an thank you - west by god Virginia
I like this video and everything you said and did until.............At 18:51 I cringed.......that little straight blade screwdriver for that large screw! That's why the slot in that screw looks like that! The rule is use the largest screwdriver that will properly fit the screw. You would have been able to turn it easily, and not have the trouble that it seemed you had.
Great tool, just got one but it benefits from a handle for long window grooving eg sash window party bead housing.thank so much. The wooden tool is better than metallic versions. Skew blade fillisters for rebates are even better at cutting wood.
very nice video, however i am bothered by your differenciation of mild steel and "cast steel". I'm a bladesmith myself, i work with lots of steels, and i've made my own blister steel from a crucible, as well as pure iron from a dirt furnace in the old way. The main difference of the cast steel and mild steel from bessemer is carbon content, and purity. Basically you need to have very low sulfur and phosphorous, and if you also have rather high manganese, it's a plus for performance. Here's how the bessemer process works : basically you take cast iron (too much carbon), and reduce the carbon content until you get what you need. Why did it lead to mass production of mild steel instead of harder steel ? Simply because for construction hard steel doesn't work well, it's too hard and brittle, mild steel is more forgiving and easy to work with. But to get a harder steel you can also just remove less steel, and that's exactly what bessemer claimed he could do with his process, and on paper i don't see why it's impossible, or why you're saying "he lied". Both steels are molten and their carbon content adjusted, i would expect both to have very similar performances, if the base iron used isn't too contaminated. Also side note : not everyone was convinced by eastern damascus steel (wich isn't layered steel btw, it's just a form of early molten steel that is worked to have patterns in it, but it's not folded steel, the shapes are already in the ingot). I'm often reading "L'Art du Coutelier", by Jean Jacques Perret, published in 1771, and this guy is basically a master bladesmith from Paris, and he worked for the french science academy (just like Lavoisier and other pioneers in science), and also worked for Louis 15th, so the guy knows his stuff (and i can attest that the infos in his book are very impressively accurate, even from modern metallurgy). And basically that guy said damascus steel was crap, fragile, and knives made from it could only cut a nail if the edge was very thick, wich makes sense as wootz (or original damascus steel) is very high carbon steel. So it's very hard, however it's much more fragile than a lower carbon steel, and the shapes in the steel (carbide bands) also makes it more brittle, according to Larrin Thomas's studies. So in the mid to late 1700s, "artificial" damascus was made, by folding together iron and steel (wich was mostly blister steel at the time, however german cast steel is said to be excellent in the book). Folding the steel makes the carbon more homogenous, reduces impurities, and while this kind of damascus wasn't used for the edge of blades, it was used as a cladding to reinforce blades made from usual blister steel, and they were said to be the best in terms of performance. I can also attest from experience that old iron, turned to blister steel, is remarkably brittle compared to a modern steel, wich justifies the use of claddings of iron or artificial damascus, however nowadays san-mai blades don't make much sense, as our steels are excellent in hardness and toughness
As someone who was born and brought up in Sheffield (78yrs ago) and who had a Father and 7 uncles who all worked in the steel industry one of whom died while working with a forging hammer, lived across the road from where Huntsman made the material for making scythes. Abbeydale Industrial Hamlet. Knowing that your Mr Carniegie came to Sheffield to learn how to make steel, this all sounds like some You tuber talking rubbish about which he has no first hand knowledge. Please forgive me if you find this rude but you touch a nerve.
Thanks to a personal interest in the history of technologies, I had known __some__ pieces of this (the developments of blister steel, crucible steel, the Bessemer process, and the open hearth process), but you filled in a lot of gaps in my understanding. It hadn't quite occurred to me until you pointed it out that the Bessemer/open hearth processes and the cast crucible process actually complemented each other, filling the niches their counterpart left empty. I'd also gotten an inkling of Bessemer's ... personality ... previously, but I hadn't realized he was quite that cutthroat! Thank you for this fascinating video!
I've been researching this for months now and I have more specific info to ad. 1. The Siemens process wasn't a method of introducing carbon to steel but rather melted "cemented iron" to homogenize it efficiently. Nordic steel also has little phosphorous and sulphur, so no fluxing would be necessary. 2. By intruducing hot air, brittle nitrides formed in Bessemer steel, so even if it had been cemented, it couldn't be used in the Siemens process. This Was ultimately replaced with the basic oxygen furnace that would also provide greater control of the carbon content.
You remark that you don't know what the "2" is on the plane at 8:18. Well, that plane is a 5/8in ovolo sash beading plane, and those were used in combination with a sticking board to produce sash beads (as required in making up vertical sliding sash windows and the like). These were often sold in pairs of a #1 and a #2 in the UK. The #1 was used to make the initial (rough) moulding cuts, whilst the #2 was reserved for the final cut to exact size - presumably in order to keep the profile exact. It doesn't matter if you have a slightly out of shape and/or worn #1 plane providing your #2 plane is in good condition. For some mouldings (e.g. astragal and quirk hollows such as the Mathieson #539) the #1 may also be missing some of the sharp edges or quirks which are only applied in the final cut by the #2 plane. Based on personal observation combined with having made up vertical sliding sashes with hand planes a couple of times
Interesting thing about steel, is that it absorbs water beneath its surface. Wiping dry with a rag will not remove interior water beneath surface. If you heat the steel slowly, you can often see water seeping out of the surface. So, if you ‘seal ‘ the surface you entrap the water. If the seal fails, then oxygen might get in to create rust. So, in principle heat the iron to 80degrees and spray on low viscosity Japanese oil, lower viscosity at higher temp might assist with jap oil penetration into the surface. Wd40 is crap, it causes corrosion long term.
Thanks for the video, full process is shown using common tools. Use a rubber eraser to unclog the diamond plate. Cutting works best once a slurry of metal particles is created, but they clog so wipe with cloth then clean with rubber eraser.
Thanks for history of the scrub plane….a ‘waste not, want not’ smooth plane conversion into a scrub plane.efficient recycling idea. Pronounced camber reduces effort and force necessary to hog off wood. Do you thick the thick newly manufactured blades are better than thinner old ones ?
Does anyone here recognize the maker mark AA with a colonial pattern around it? No other markings, no town or province, just the AA with a fancy boarder.
It is a "me thing". I cannot stand music in the background. 1. I came for the instruction, not your taste in music. 2. I get distracted by the music. Usually, it is too loud. 3. As a musician, I critically listen to the musical composition. 4. "Oh, look, squirrel!"
Hello Abraham, I just bought an Ensenore Works (Auburn tools) #50 22 inch fore plane and searched for ways to make it work again and ran across your videos which I found as being very informative and well edited. The plane is in reasonably good shape with no cracks, tight handle, and blade doesn’t have any slop. After cleaning, flattening the sole, regluing an overlay over the angled frog??, and attempted to take out a slight bend in the blade while sharpening it nicely. Your video hit home for chatter and having the blade so extended to cut that it either took a very large shaving or nothing at all. Nothing worked to correct this. I then took my spare 2-3/8 Stanley blade and installed it. The plane works like a charm now on edges but still not there on planing the width. Takeaway here is to make sure the blade is dead flat. Do you have any hints on making a new wedge. One ear is about 1/2 inch shorter than the other and neither reach to the curvature on the chip breaker. This also should help out as the wedge and blade need a lot of persuasion to remove them. I think this would complete the plane to make it a daily user. Thanks
I've just started using wooden planes and this and your other videos have helped immensely. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, it's becoming quite addictive. 👍👊
I'm here from a shout-out from Rex. I've just purchased a 28” jointer wooden plane as part of a set. It's in great condition but has no chip breaker. There are no grooves or cutouts where the wedge or body was shaped to ever accommodate a chip breaker. Some of the other planes are from the 1800’s. Is this normal? What are your thoughts?? Love the channel. I've learned so much already, and I really appreciate the effort you've put in. What would we have done before RU-vid? 😁
My dad gave me the large toolbox that was made by my great grandfather in about 1860, it's got a perhaps full set of moulding planes in it? Not sure. I'll have to pop out tomorrow and see if there are any makers marks on them
It is indeed possible to produce Bessemer steel with high carbon content like the one of crucible steel,Bessemer steel is not necessarily mild steel.The molten pig iron(which is cast iron with a very high carbon content,which can be produced by carboreduction of various ores,including the high purity magnetite from Sweden) is totally decarburized by the jet of air,then high manganese cast iron is added in order to form the high melting point MnS on the grains borders which prevents hot shortness.The right amount of carbon can be introduced afterwards. There were Bessemer converters producing steel for rails a century after the introduction of the patent m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_SusLrBIck8.html. I can't understand where the lie is 😅.Even sir Joseph Whitworth said that ores being equal ,the Bessemer steel/homogeneus metal can be made of high quality.
Yours is worse than mine. 👍🏼 I have an Ogontz Tool Co no. 13. It looks like there was a fire at the throat opening, it’s missing a cheek, it has a broken off side of its wedge, and some large cracks enanating from the “fire zone” on its sole. I’m pretty excited about attempting this repair though because I’m restoring a desperate, trash-heap-worthy vintage wood plane rather than messing with a nice but flawed plane that I could potentially make worse. So there’s no pressure. 🙂 My problem is finding Ohio white beech to graft in. It’s agonizing to think about mingling species in an old wood plane. Thank you for your immensely helpful videos; I’ll be relying on them over the next few days.
A trick I often use when I need to transfer an iregular shape, or screw holes for mounting, is to photocopy the original and cut it out. Then, I can place that paper template where I need it.
hello, love your channel. I picked up a jointer plane & I can almost see a makers mark that reads, S.peet or S. peot? does that sound familiar to you at all. keep up the content. good stuff
Thank you for these videos, recently inherited 40 planes but a few have me stumped. Every see one with a leather running down the inside of the throat and mouth? No maker's mark but styling seems around early 1800s.
Very interesting, just found your channel recently thanks to Rex Krueger. I love this kind of history, but don't have time to research it myself, so thank you! On a similar topic, can you/will you cover or do anything with transitional planes? One could argue they are more wood than metal. 🙂
Fellow lover of old wooden planes here. Two suggestions: the music you add to videos takes away from the enjoyment of sound of the work. Which is why we are here. The second, is to be mindful of the umm's, ahhh's, errmmm's and so forth. You have a quality product, a niche market - have fun!
We all say umm and ehhh. Every single day. It's a good idea to work on accepting that not everyone is a toastmaster. There is an old saying about looking a gift horse eeeer ummm I forget the rest. Thanks for the great free videos.
All my tools are left outside under a covered porch. They are exposed to all the moisture in the air, and we get a ton of winter rain. (PNW). I havent used eggs, nor camelia oil. But I have used everything else. As a blacksmith and wood craftsmen, I find only one method actually seals out the moisture/ rust for years at a time. Takes a very little work but its impenetrable. I should find a way of marketing it. Would make me millions. (ps: paste wax, beeswax, mineral oil, wax/oil blend, wd40 (the worst), etc etc all fail in short order (month or less)
