My channel is a way for me to put my hobbies up to show you. Im a life long cyclist and bicycle mechanic who puts up mostly cycling related content with a smattering of other hobbies like musical instrument builds and more.
I never weighed it. But it feels light to me. I did quite a bit of upgrades from stock . Like lighter wheels and tires. Plus i stripped the brakes off. When it was stock it came with 700x30 tires and heavier Deep V ish style wheels. I wouldnt say it was super light. But i wouldnt categorize it as heavy either. 24 lbs stock i think. My upgrades might have it around 20 to 22 lbs. Those are guesses.Not facts. LOL I do know this. It rides light and smooth. I wouldnt say that about stock tires that came on it.
There isn't much about the Feather on RU-vid. You were definitely an influence on me buying one. I got it last month and I love it. One question I have is what width tires are you running? Mine came stock with 30s but they are cheapo and I want to replace them.
I am running Continental Ultra Sport 700x25 tires. They come in all sorts of sizes. And there not expensive. I love there ride quality and there durability. I agree. The stock tires arnt the greatest.
@@mr.g.916 It's a fixed gear. So I use my legs. The bike did come stock with brakes. Which would be needed if I used it as a single speed. I took freewheel off and put a fixed cog on.
I rode fixed-gear bikes on the track. They are used there so no one can cause chaos by stopping quickly. But I would never be stupid enough to ride one on the road. This guy would wet himself on the track.
@@hughlawson1051 Thanks for bringing this to my attension. I dont feel im advocating it. But by me choosing it and sharing it. I can see your case. It wont change how i ride or setup my bikes. But it will change how i aproach doing videos in the future with my fixed bikes. Thank you.
Hello, that handle bar looks sick. I just got a feather and looking to do these. Do you mind sharing the handle bar specs? Clamp diameter and width? Thank you
Two methods. Ill teach you the math method. Measure from the nut were it meets the fretboard to the 12th fret. Times that by 2. Take that number and thats were the center of the saddle will go. There is a compensation to get it to play better. Its a miilimeter forward to take care of the string height because of the saddle. Method number two and how i like to do it. I install the two outer strings. And anchor them to the back if the guitar/uke using a flat peace of wood. I drill 2 holes in it about the spacing were they would be on the saddle. Tune them up to a moderate tension. Slide the bridge and saddle under the strings about were it will go. Tune those strings up to pitch. Now you can slide the bridge back and forth till the 12th fret and the open string plays the same not. I learned that method from the Jerry Rosa String works channel. It takes longer to type than it is to do. LOL Once you get it were you want. Mark the position. If you actually read this far. My measurment is 20 1/4 inches . Thats from the center of saddle to the nut were it meets the fret board.
@@lanceblack888 I'm very happy with mine. That said. I did upgrade alot on it. I did ride it stock for awhile and it was good. I had no complaints. This model came with ball bearing headset and hubs. Me being Me. I upgraded headset and wheels to a sealed cartridge system. I like it even better now. Lol. I will say this. I love the ride quality of the steel frame. I'm 5ft 11 inches. 34 inch inseam.And I'm on the Large. Fuji bikes have always sized small. The large fits me well. Hopefully this helps you with your decision.
@@albikes8484 the large is advertised as a 57. I’m usually on a 56. I’m also 5’11” with a 34inch inside leg! I thought the tensioning screw system looked a bit fiddly. Traditional drops seem much easier to use. Why do single speed bikes not just use traditional drops and skewers? Or thru axles? I guess it’s all to do with chain tensioning? Thanks, Laurence
@@lanceblack888 As far as drops. I have another fixed gear with drops. Quick release would be fine for the front.But you'd have to worry about the rear wheel slipping under torque. Through Axles would be amazing. But you would with have to have an eccentric bottom bracket to tension the chain. Or a more elaborate rear dropout that slides the through axle back for tensioning. And both of those options would be much more pricey. As far as the stock Fuji tensioners. There a traditional long Allen bolt/screw that rests against the axle. Not fiddly at all. My state 4130 has the same system. As far as frame size goes. I put a taller stem on so I can sit more uprite. If your fine with a lower bar the 57 will work. If you want a more uprite position the 60c might be better for that
My braces came not truly flat. The back was in good shape. Having alittle roundness to the back isnt a bad thing. I have built quite a few of these klits. And its up to the person to true everything up. I just looked at my baritone. And its a flat back. One of my tricks to level things is to tape sand paper down to my flattest surface. Then i can sand the braces or anything down to flat. Good luck with your project. Im very happy with my built baritone. I did change the strings to Aquila Red with the 2 low string wound. Sounds very rich.
It's a small world. While picking up some shimano V brakes at my local bike shop, I noticed a sun faded Muddy Fox frame screwed to the ceiling as decoration. Awesome completion dude!
Seeing as you're a mechanic, maybe you can help me. I don't have the greatest know how when it comes to bikes. Tubes and tires is what I know. How do you feel about cantilever brakes vs V brakes? I'm planning on changing my rockhopper to V brakes because the cantilever pads I can get don't fully stop me. I'm really hooked to your restoration now.
V-Brakes are alot stronger. They will stop you . The only disadvantage to V Brakes are that you need very true rims. Because the pad to rim clearence is much tighter on Vs. If your wheels are true this isnt much of an issue. Canti brakes even set up tight tend to have better mud clearence. If your rims are in decent shape. Go with the Vs.
It was good for its time. Id rather have some better parts too. Like Wider aluminum bars. I can upgrade those as time goes on. Thank you for commenting.
Ive ridden NYC in traffic on both fixed and free. I dont find NYC to difficult to ride. Ive got many years of Fixed confidence built up. Wether thats a good or bad thing. Im not sure. I do know this. If you ride in a more defensive fashion vs just flying through intersections. Youll probably be safer. lol Thank you for commenting.
Hey, I just bought a new Fuji Feather and it steers very stiffly... It is not the top cap/screw, because it is still going stiffly when i remove the steer. Do you have any suggestions? Do i need to loosen the parts that you loosened with large wrenches?
Sounds to me that the headset might need to be adjusted . My Fuji Feather has a threaded headset that uses wrenches to adjust it. If you have the same. Usually an adjustable wrench can do the job. Ideally you would get the proper headset wrench. So you can tighten it properly.
I think there both there both great bikes. But the truth be told. I haven't seen either up close.I know on my wish list is a wabi with the polished lugs.
Great video. Your chain tension seems rather high to me. I prefer to not have any bind at all, which can mean pretty loose spots on cheap chainrings. But it's silent and efficient. That's on single speed though, on fixed a bit tighter is preferred. Those dunlop valves are very common where I live, you can even go to local stores to buy replacement valves. What brand freewheel is that? It has quite nice clicking noise.
Dunlop are not that common around me. But I will say it's a nice working valve. And am not sure why there not more popular. One of those bikes I tensioned didn't have the roundest chain ring so I kind of found middle ground. The Fuji tensioned well. Very quite and smooth. And my old trek single speed I'd say I got a bit tight. It freed up after a couple rides and has smoothed out nice. I have an A.C.S. freewheel. There cheaper version. Oiling the freewheel does make a difference. Thank you for commenting.
@@albikes8484 Thanks for the reply! Oh, ACS is pretty nice even though it's cheap. I have one 16T ACS freewheel (not in use right now) and two 18T Dicta freewheels, which are also very cheap. Acs seems to have more encagement points than dicta. I also have not cheap 18t blb royal freewheel which has a lot of encagement points but I find it dragging way too much for my liking (and thus quite loud as expected). Oiling hasn't made too much difference with it.
@@Pianist203 Through the years ive sold and installed lots of Dicta freewheels. They work they last as long as your not a torque monster or a bmx racer. Nowadays that freewheels arnt the norm. The ACS mainline is almost the same price as the dicta. And cheaper at some places. Ill admit to just going with acs because it was a brand i was familiar with.
You can oil the fretboard as long as its after the fret install. The slots are on the nut. But will most likely need to be adjusted for good playing action. Either by sanding the bottom of the nut for better playing action. Or filing the slots deeper. I hope you have fun with the kit.
Great content. Still debating on this bike. After seeing you ride it and the bars you put on it... it looks like a great bike. Need to see your video on how to make that rear fender. Thanks for producing this content!
The fender gets lots of complements in public. I feel my fuji was of good value when i bought it. There were definitly bikes that were less expensive with possibly better parts on them. But not from brands i was familiar with. Fuji has been making feathers for as long as i can remember. So i felt safe knowing that if something wasnt right i could get it handled. Thank you for commenting. And good luck on your bike hunting.
@AI, i just subscribed to your channel about a week ago. I really appreciate your content and your love of single-speed / fixed gear. I am getting ready to make a purchase and wanted to see what you recommend. Im pretty tall/big @ 6'5" so want to get something pretty stout. I have narrowed it down to: WABI Classi, State 4130, Fuji Feather. I have been watching your content on the Feather and the State...which would you recommend? thanks in advance!
How rough do you think you'll be ? If you think you want a thicker tire and possibly off Road it a bit. The State seems to be beefier than the Fuji. Both of them have a nice ride quality. Things of note. Fuji s tend to size small. State seems to be right on. I don't own a wabi classic. But I sure as hell know I want to. Lol. But I do own the Wabi Light wheels and they are pretty nice quality.
Hey, I saw your fuji feather 2022 update. I want to get one and I have a couple questions. Could the fuji feather handle rough roads? And is it fast like the other modern fixies?
Speedplay Frog Pedals. They don't make them any more. I love them. And have been using these pedals since the mid 90s. Wahoo bought out Speedplay. And all they make is the road bike versions.
I do own mini pumps. 2 mini and 2 full. Size frame pumps. Which do get used on my other bikes. I try to set up a pack for each bike. I have 9 bikes of different styles. Thank you for the comment
My major complaint wasnt that i couldnt drink out of it. It was that nothing stays hot in it for long. I did end up getting the steel version. Much better for heat retension. But same desigh so the grinds stay behind the plunger screen. Thank you for commenting.
My Fuji Fixed gear i really like for bike paths. I have a long quil stem so it sits more upright. Perfect for the bike paths. The great thing with bike paths are any bike will do.
I'm running a 28 ring with a 17 rear cog. Which I think is about 48 gear inches. Or a 1.65 Ratio. Big enough to go a decent speed on the flatter mountain bike trails. Without being so big that I can't climb.