My pedders coilovers (front) come with new rubber strut bushings. I’m going to immediately swap to the same white line poly bushings… I’m wondering do I need to compress the spring to safely swap the bushings or will that just be the same as adding a bushings like your BC coils here ?? Thanks
I would maybe look into super pro poly last or maybe even sticking with the rubber. Almost immediately my white lines collapsed and I have a big gap under the mount washer. But yeah compressing the spring wouldn't hurt, probably be good for the threads.
@@evsnova74 interesting… last thing I thought I would hear ! I bought the white line poly strut mounts as I was told to stay away from rubber. The pedders could come with rubber… these white lines were expensive !! Much more than the super pros :(
I ordered 4 super pro bushings for my inner and outer rear control arms. They are all identical and non adjustable I believe. I plan to keep and re use my OEM toe link. Will these be okay?? LMK please !
Hey boss I installed my rear sway bar but after a few days I wanted to adjust the stiffness and i guess the bushings came off , do you know if the metal tab on the bracket that holds the bushing is supposed to go in the insert on the frame ? I’d appreciate your help thank you
I think I know what you're asking, the bushings at the top that mount the bar to the subframe? The back of the brackets go into a slot cut into the subframe, then the bolt goes in the hole. Which is a bitch because it's up at a weird angle and it makes it almost impossible to get the bolt started. If it wasn't a total nightmare to get the bolt in then you might not have had the back of the bracket in those slots.
I used your video today and installed cruise on my 97 base model suburban from a parts suburban 97 sle I have had for a long time thanks alot the dumby plug solved the whole mystery thanks thanks and thank you
@@craigverwey983 I'm open to anything, I had to match these to previous ones this customer had that she requested but personally I'm not the biggest fan of this style. I'm pushing people towards reggio cast iron these days
there should be .010 clearance between the body (shaft guide) and the cap or top where the ball rides between the detents. That is what the factory recommends.
Just came across your videos. Im from New Zealand, drive a 04 Holden Commodore YV seris2 HSV Clubsport 6Sd manual sedan. Basically the 4 door vertion of your GTO. Was very interesting for me to see that even though yours has been manufactured as a lert hand drive, that they left the Hand Brake installed on the right hand side. Thanks for rhis video, ive just finished making a 5 clock dash insert for mine, it comes standard with two gauges in the centre much lije yours, oil pressure and volts. I brought a blanking plate like yours came with, cut the centre out molded a face plate/cove to mount 5x2" gauges, AFR, Oil temp, and vacuum to go along with the standard oil pess, and volts. Cam fit three side by side, with another teo above. Covered in C/F it looks very factory. Just needed tips to disassemble the console to wire everything in. Great detail. Thank you snd Hello from little New Zealand
...i know this is a couple of yrs old...but the only person i seen have success with this, was to actually Lower one of the rear wheels pressing it into the housing.
Having enough force wasn't really a problem as I recall, the biggest thing I was worried about is separating the rubber from the mount housing. Once I cut the bevel on the insert it went right in. I should probably check on it and make sure it hasn't popped out lol
Yeah it has to come off iirc. No other way to get the drive shaft out. Make sure you know where the leak is coming from, my seal was fine it was just leaking through the splines. The nut can also back out on its own, so if I could go back in time I would have removed the nut, laid a bead of rtv at the base of it, loaded it up with red loctite, then tightened it until the slop was taken up, then another quarter turn. Or knowing what I know now I would have tightened it until I got the same rotational torque value I achieved in the 3rd video.
When I do my next boot I'll probably use one of my pricking irons to mark the evenly spaced holes and small bit in my drill press to drill through with undersized holes that I know are going through square.
On the next pair I did, I acquired some 6mm pricking irons and used the one with 2 prongs to mark and go about half way through. I found that a little easier to visualize square from the bottom. And of course the wider spacing was a lot better and faster lol
I resoled a boot myself about a year and a half ago, it wasn't exactly fun and they were already Goodyear welted. I've got another pair of boots I'm going to do at some point and it's going to be a bit of uncharted territory for me. The particular pair if boots are a true moccasin construction with an outsole directly blake stitched on. My plan is to sew on a leather midsole then glue on a wedge sole. It should be a pretty straightforward job, I'll just have to figure out how to transfer the holes in the sole of the boot to the midsole for stitching through it from the outside.
Oh wow I'm not sure how I'd tackle a black stitch. Unless you're saying you're going to convert it to some other method of construction. I'm not sure I'd like a Blake stitched boot, I'd be afraid I'd feel the stitches and it would drive me nuts. I guess you could always run a full length sock liner. Well good luck either way, it certainly sounds like fun to me
@@evsnova74These footskins moccasin walking boots were blake stitched to begin with, and it sits flush so you don't feel that stitching at all. They're literally just a 6" height moccasin with an outsole blake stitched directly on with no midsole. The whole process should be pretty straightforward actually. Just remove the outsole, glue / sew on a leather midsole, then glue on a wedge outsole and shape / finish. I guess since the outsoles were directly sewn on straight through I should probably be able to use them as a hole marking template now that I think about it. The only real challenge for me beyond getting the holes lined up will just be doing a good job shaping and finishing the edges.
@@TylerSnyder305 ah I see. Yeah I did a pair of White's packers recently and used the original holes in the vamp as a template of sorts, worked great. Man the finishing always gives me anxiety, I want to wrap the boot on duct tape or something to protect it lol
I've also got red car body work videos in the works. I don't think I ever put that on here but it was rear ended a couple years ago. Just got it "fixed" a few months ago and have been driving it again.
What’s up dude. I was just installing my stock dif mount with the insert and low and behold I fucking cross threaded the bottom 22mm bolt on the main dif bolts. Not the four 13mm ones but the two short stubby 22mm ones. I got the top one in then started to screw the bottom one and cross threaded. What the hell do I do now? Tap and die? Or what else could I do??
@@evsnova74 if they had what? A whole new cover?? I read on the forum to Heli-Coil it? It’s just aluminum and it’s literally like the first couple threads on one hole. I even bought new m14x1.5 30mm bolts. Just kinda bummed now and wondering if I order an m14x1.5 Helicoil kit or what
@@permabulk1454 yeah that's probably worth a try first and if it pulls out or for whatever reason doesn't work, then you could always get a used cover at that point.
@@evsnova74 for sure. Ugh always something. The top bolt went in kind of snug because the poly added some extra depth to it so I just thought the bottom was giving me a hard time but nope. Sure enough, cross threaded the first few threads. I’ve seen a bunch of hacks on how to do it easy but a dude on the forum said he did the Heli-Coil method and it not only worked but added strength (cuz stainless steel into aluminum) I see generic versions of Helicoil on Amazon for a 1/3 of the price
Hey nice video. I’ve recently done some upgrades to my 05 gto. I did 1 7/8 long tubes. Cat delete with 3 inch exhaust through magnaflows. A one piece drive shaft. New timing chain and gear. I did a dyno tune and I’m putting down 350 hp and 365 ft lbs of tq. It’s an automatic. I want to do some sort of intake and cam upgrade but I’m still researching stuff. How is this setup you’ve done running so far ?
It runs just fine but I've never had it dyno'd or anything. Now that the major supporting mods are done I have been planning on doing heads and cam next. Probably get it dyno'd at that point and see where I'm at. I'd probably be happy with 400 to the wheels tbh
@@evsnova74 thanks. Yeah that’s what I’m shooting for right now. If I see 400 or so to the ground I’ll be good for a while. At least that’s what I think lol.
Thanks for the video! Alternative for the masses: when I drop the front subframes in my shop for these cars (most often to do oil pans and gaskets), I leave the front LCAs connected, struts or coilovers in place, and let those support the weight of the cradle for me via the front LCAs and radius rods. This is a great time to upgrade or refresh the OE motor mounts as well. Huge time saver with cradle dropped versus having to jack up the motor 4"... I DO remove the front brake calipers, pads and rotors before dropping the cradle, because that takes about 80lbs of dead weight out of the equation, and they're pretty painless to take off. The actual cradle is quite light, and letting the struts and knuckles support it for me while replacing a sway bar or pulling an oil pan can be helpful. LIKE if this info/comment was useful so I know if it's worth my time to post these. 🍻 ✌
Yes. Can I get in touch with you as you seem to be very knowledgeable and kind enough to share. I’m about to do coilovers, front and rear sways and every single bushing 😵💫 would be honored to get extra guidance.
Funny you should ask, I'm currently refurbing another set of wheels for my G series and went back to my previous Amazon orders to get more bearings and seals. They still have the bearings but I couldn't find any seals that I would be confident were the correct part once they actually show up. I'm just gonna call Richard's Lawn and Garden tomorrow and have him send me everything I need. We should be supporting him rather than Amazon anyway.
@@evsnova74 So, I have a G-20 with new rubber on each front tire, but the tires balloon a little and come too close to the pivot screw for my comfort. I wanted to space the tire out some but goobered up the seal. I took it apart and thought I'd just go ahead and replace the guts. My research suggested with OEM parts it would cost just under $200 for just one side. After I picked myself up off the floor I started to look harder for UTube vids on the subject and came across yours. You have a contact for Richards?
@@johngolly2163 if you want to hunt down the seals I do know the dimensions, 1 x 1.785 x .486. I found the right part number on Amazon but the picture looked nothing like the seals from these. I can't imagine the bearings and seals are going to be anywhere near that, I was thinking 50$ at the most but we'll see. I did just spend 300$ in new tires so I hope it's not that much lol
@@johngolly2163 here are the bearings: (Set of 4) Trailer/Agricultural Hub Wheel Bearing Set WPS (TM) LM11949 LM11910 0.75'' I.D. x 1.781'' O.D. a.co/d/cTR3TQW
You're not wrong. I've got arp front and rear, one of them are hard to find now though. Part numbers are either in the description of this video or the first one of the series ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--tDhWgkFpmM.htmlsi=_GJGjykW-oEbFDvh
I don't have one on hand but pretty sure the louvers were 1/4" thick, the space was 5/16", and the angle was 30 degrees, but really it's whatever you want it to be unless you're trying to match Ridgefield
So I’m completely new to this and I’m in the middle of doing the rear also. My question is after putting in the spring do I jack up the control arm just enough to secure the spring, then install the shock? Having a tough time understanding at what length I should have the shock at?
@@evsnova74 appreciate your immediate response I am not sure if you are in Australia or in the US, well I am an expat working in Middle East and we have these Holden/GM Caprice being imported from Australia through a GM dealerships and unfortunately unable to get the Nolathane (AU) bushings I have been trying to get from Rockauto (US) but the shipping prices are astronomical. Last time I had to settle for Thailand made bushings (Natural Rubber)for the control arm, though I am able to get Polyurethane bushings for the Radius Rod only. Just today I got lower control arms from a salvage car, The condition looks good so far..... Apologies for the lengthy message.... I still have doubts about the shock mount cups
@@evsnova74 I can understand your limitation however I am pleased for your concern and courtesy to reply 😊. However, I am a somewhat fan of GM cars and currently own since 1994 in the family, 2 Buicks 1983 Electra Park Avenue, 01 Caprice 1988, Holden Caprice 06, Mustang GT 89 but never have experienced such a suspension failure repeatedly 😕😞 that is heartbreaking 😭 and boils blood 😡 even after putting original parts they barely stand the test of time (without any abusive driving) habits. Never heard of any recalls from any GM dealerships for suspension failures.
@@evsnova74 furthermore I also noticed the shock absorber of the same side also leaks within no time.... This has to do something with the bushings??? Appreciate your input 🤠.
props again for showing the bushing install procedure! I didn’t realize they didn’t have to be pressed in. I’m thinking of picking up the energy suspension master set and I believe theyre basically set up like the ones you showed.
Hey props for showing the ball joint and bushing removal with an arbor press. Just picked one up a few months ago for another project and prices on new control arms went up by a lot at my local oreillys!!! I have a ball joint press kit with various different diameter sockets/shims so hopefully won’t be an issue when I go in to install.
