I think I'm gonna buy this one right now. I've got a LTD m403 ht, and it's hard to find clip on tuners for it, because it's got a very pointy, reverse headstock. Not a lot of space to clip onto. But this looks small enough. Also, I like that clamp. It looks better than the usual spring clamps, because the springs actually broke on the last one I owned. I think it was fender or Dunlop or something. Anyways, thanks for the review!
This sounds good. I've two piezo-equipped electrics, one which has a stereo jack and uses a splitter box. The other has two outputs on the guitar. Can you advise more on how to make this work? I'm pretty stumped.
Hi Hugo, I’ve not had any problems with normal guitars. However, Floyd Rose with locking nut done up sometimes don’t have enough resonance at the headstock. Maybe worth changing the battery just in case, failing that, I’d report it as a fault to whoever you bought it from. D’Addario will always look after their customers. Let me know how it goes.
Hello there! Awesome video!! I would appreciate some guidance here. I am new with the EBMM Majesty, what is the best way to know when the bridge is level? I change strings to 9-42 and I’m having issues with the action and the level of the bridge. Action had to let it a bit higher for my taste because when trying to get it lower it buzz when pulling the bar uptone. And the bridge, the entonation holes must be OUT of the bridge cavity? Or level? Thanks for your help!!!
José Alberto Gonzalez C. In terms of level it would really depend how you want it setup. I personally like the bridge plate to run horizontal to the body with a 1.5mm gap. The saddles should then be used to get the right action and radius. I go for Bass side 1.5mm at the 12th fret and 1.25mm on the Treble. Truss Rod should set the next to almost straight with slight relief. Hope this helps. Welcome to email me pictures rich@soundunlimited.co.uk
John T Doherty it’s been really good chatting with you about all of this. I’m glad you have got it set up and working. I’ll look forward to hearing what you do with it.
This is awesome - I have an emerald x10 with dual pickups - piezo and a mag and I’m using it in this way too. When the new acoustic sim came out a month ago I’m getting some amazing tones blending and morphing !
I bought a Luke III from Wildwood Guitars and it's absolutely incredible. The neck definitely takes getting used to as it's like playing a broomstick! I was very disappointed to know that I cannot adjust the pickup height.
@@BFHPET sorry for the delay. I’ve had a look and as far as I can see the output can be split for both magnetic and piezo at the same time via a TRS. This would be exactly the same as I showed in this demo. Let me know if you need any more help. Could always jump on Zoom.
Good demo. Where are they available? Most everyone's website in Southern CA says they have them. However, they are not available when you actually ask someone or try t check out on line.
There’s a little bar that comes with them. You can use other tools but be careful, as there is a reasonable amount of pressure needed and you don’t want to slip.
George L's are just ok sound wise. They seem to be missing something, not as full and balanced and detailed, as the Evidence SIS. That may be good or bad depending on your whole rig, but no question better sound quality. The only real plus for the Georges is that there is nothing simpler to assemble
@@TimTrane Love Rockerverbs. Certainly would be great to do one at some stage. We have done Debbie which is a Custom Shop 40th Anniversary. She was amazing! Thanks so much for the offer! www.soundunlimited.co.uk/collections/amplifiers/products/orange-custom-shop-50-debbie
Man...I wish someone would do "how to" video on a LUKE III showing "how to" set the bridge up flat on the body, so that the trem is a dive only function. I've got mine close but it seems to get it flat, one must lower the 2 posts which would mean the saddles need to be raised, which is virtually impossible since they're almost maxed out in height now. Can the LUKE III trem be set flat/dive-only? I hate the trem moving even slightly when I bend strings; I can feel the tension change & I have to push the string a little harder since the bridge is moving, making a whole step bend much more work than it should be. And when bending the G, the B & E 1st go flat. Help....
Just get your guitar to a local luthier, they will fix it for you. Actually, the L III comes with a flat trem from the factory. I‘m pretty sure you didn’t use the same string gauge as the original setup, that’s why your trem goes crazy. Trems are super hard on such tiny changes
Brought a pack of the SIS (very expensive), followed the instructions to a T. The copper core keeps breaking off inside the plugs. Serious waste of money!
Chris Shearwood are you unable to use the plugs? I have made 100s and not had an issue. If you bought them from us I can give you a refund no problem. However, if you want to give me a call it would be great to try to understand what is going on. The cores don’t break easily unless you score them, perhaps as you strip the cable? Shop number is 01752261993. Opening hours are on the website.
Rich Turner No I purchased a kit within the UK. The cable core keeps breaking off inside the plugs, despite my best efforts to follow the instructions. Now I’ve run out of usable cable length for what I need!
Chris Shearwood , don’t worry. We can send you some cable to help you out and I can make up a cable so you can have a look. I think you may be cutting in to the core or just doing it up too tight. They are usually very strong. Email me your details, Cables you are making up and how much Monorail you need. We can sort it for you. rich@soundunlimited.co.uk
Hi Chris, Check this out (maybe skip to the end): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6SEzSOYfX0M.html It shows how a chopstick or soft piece of wood can grab the copper and help you unscrew it. Soaking the chopstick in warm water can help also. As to what is leading to your situation, I think it could be one of these things. 1) when removing the white insulation you are cutting the copper core a little bit which makes it weak 2) You are leaving the copper core much too long. just try to have 3 mm showing 2) you are screwing too much. I only push the cable into the plug, and turn the plug 0.5 or 1 rotation to confirm the core is set and threading. Then I put the cap on and close it. there is no need to screw/screw/screw the plug onto the cable before putting on the cap. If you have a plug you cannot use and have tried to fix, we can try to get you a replacement. Rich Turner has offered and I double-down on the emphasis we want you over-the-moon when your board is finished with this process, however frustrating to begin with. Hopefully you can recover some plugs there with speed and convenience, and have no trouble going forward. I've got your back (and that of Rich) to replace plugs you can't recover after considering the above. Kind regards, Tony (Evidence Audio)
Evidence Audio Thanks for your help. I have since contacted Rich on the email above. It’s probably user error on my part, but I’m finding making up a working cable to be very difficult! I’ve cut the cable to the exact lengths given in the instructions & have also been very careful not to cut into the core when scoring around the white insulator but it either then doesn’t thread onto the plug or snaps off inside! As I’ve explained to Rich the only tools I have to work with are a craft knife, a pair of snips & the yellow multi-cutting tool included with the kit. If there’s any faster, more efficient way of making up the cables it would be great to know? It’s taking me approx 20mins to try & make up 1 cable. Thanks
