Hi and welcome to my channel GarageTech. My name’s Darren and my channel has DIY, technology and how to videos for routine service and maintenance work for automotive vehicles.
I’ve been in the automotive industry for many years and love cars, driving and fixing them. And of course, sharing my knowledge with others.
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@@ianpeach1352 I never had any issues on any of the Land rovers or Jags that I had apart from one Disco 2018 which had balance shafts replaced under warranty because they were noisy. Apart from that, all ok. Maybe I was lucky 😅
You didn't use stud lock.noticed you mentioned copper slip,also would have been a lot easier to remove handrake cable by removing clip and unhooking.brake pipe are easily damaged.
They Think because they say it with a British accent that it's a good thing. It's a bunch of bullshit. You can't find charges anywhere. It takes eight hours to charge this car level two charges are nowhere to be found.
Any video talking about a pre purchase inspection that doesn’t mention bore score, is a useless video in my book. Both 987.1 and .2 are at high risk of developing bore score, people think that 987.2 is immune to bore score, but they are delusional, it’s just taking .2 cars longer to reach their failure point because they are newer. The only cars which are relatively immune to bore score are the base models because they have forged pistons, and produce less heat in general. The rest of the items are pretty easy cheap to fix, there are after market cable ends, to replace the worn ones, I’ve done them and I have 400,000km on my car’s original cables. They will NOT easily break if you’re not brutal with them. The half shafts have an issue with rust for sure, I’ve replaced inner and outer x4 boots twice. One half shaft wore on the inside and replaced it with a used one. They last a very long time there’s no point of spending $1500 on a new one. The AOS is a DYI that cost under $100. I would do it preemptively every 100,000 km. My advice NEVER buy these cars without scoping all 6 cylinders for scoring.
Hello, mate... I'm having a problem eith pressure leakinf through the cap on the reservoir. Ive tightened it to the point I feel if I go anymore, i might damage the reservoir container. Any tips? did you hsve to tighten it extremely hard?
No should be ok, just check if there’s a seal on the cap, can’t remember if there is one but worth a check. Also have you got the right adapter cap, the one I have is suitable for most German cars
@@TheLondonCyclist that will be why then, you can get it on Amazon, there’s two different universal adapters, ones better than the other, best to check how much room you have as the cheaper one is a bit of a faff. Just search Sealey Vs820Ua and Sealey VS0204UA 👍🏼
Brilliant explanation and description..... it's so involved you can see why the slightest glitch sends it into limp mode and another rip off visit to the money grabbing dealer. It really is that unreliable now, even costlier on hgvs.
@GarageTechAutomotive sorry I meant to add that I have a P0118, I had it initially maybe a year or so ago, I replaced the ect sensor, got rid of that but just came up again maybe 2 weeks ago. Going to assume the part itself shouldn't go out that fast and check the wiring...
Hey, is this a problem with your car or just a general question on what causes the boost air to be hot. As the turbo is connected to the exhaust naturally there’s heat transfer. Secondly, when you compress air it heats up, hence why it’s common to have an intercooler.
would a geared turbo be a better solution if possible in cars? I know jet engines have geared turbofans that obviously work on different mechanisms, but seem to be the best solution for jets. Is it just complexity holding it back from cars or is there something else?
Hey, you do notice a change in the throttle response and a deeper induction noise. As for performance, apparently they do add a “few”BHP, I can’t confirm as never tested but as with all these types of mods, it always feels a bit faster but that can be just the placebo effect 😂
Hello! What could be to blame?! After a whole night, at 7 in the morning, when I put the tester on, the outside temperature is 8 degrees Celsius, but the antifreeze temperature is 13-15 degrees Celsius. When starting for the first time with the outside temperature between 5 and 15 positive degrees, after starting, if I try to accelerate, the engine speed fluctuates very badly. If the start-up takes place at outside temperatures below 5 degrees or above 15 degrees, then everything is ok! I changed the temperature probe with a new one OE Wv, checked the wiring and we have no problem, corrosion of connectors or anything else. What could be the cause?!!!!
Hey, what car and what engine is it. The outside temp should be reading similar to the coolant/engine temp in the morning, there may be 5c difference, just depends on climate conditions
It's Wv Jetta Mk6 2.0 Tdi 2013. I've also checked other cars and first thing in the morning they have at most the same antifreeze temperature as the outside temperature, if not 1 degree two lower. Is it possible that there is a fault in the temperature reading ECU that causes the engine speed to fluctuate when I start to accelerate, after the first cold start?!!! Thank you!
@@octaviansorescu7427 hey yes that could cause a fault, have you had any fault codes? I’d also check if it has a fuel temp sensor, what’s that reading, that should be similar to outside temp in the morning. Other things to check is missfires, any logged in the memory. I assume you have a fault code reader to check? fuel filter, when was that last changed? Dirty fuel filter can cause mystery running issues. Any fault codes for the glow plugs? If one of those isn’t working correctly that will cause running issues first thing. Also what is the intake air temperature? You should have a few temp sensors to check between. Ambient temp, intake air temp, coolant temp, fuel temp. Check that for now and if all ok next would be EGR system
Howdy! All other temperatures are very close to the ambient temperature: intake air temperature, fuel temperature, oil temperature, only the antifreeze temperature has a deficiency of 5-7 degrees higher than all the others. I have no error codes and the egr was changed to Origine Wahler recently. Ramp fuel pressure equal to specified, no problem injector correction!
hi is there a way to look at connector pin information. such j519 t73. is there a picture or diagram that shows what each individual pin is. like pin 1- power pin 2- ECM supply pin 3- coolant fan signal etc. thank you
One small correction: Dryer is used to remove any unwanted water (or water vapour) and also acts a filter. Water vapour is really bad as it freeze in expansion valve causing starvation.
