I picked up a Rockwell JawHorse a couple years ago to clamp onto things like this. I find all kinds of use for it like clamping a chainsaw, weed easter in it to work on the engine or long pieces of material. It adjust quickly to size and clamps pretty tight using leverage and soft jaws. Folds up and rolls into the back of the garage.
The Watchdog circuit for pinball games is suppose to RESET & Shut the game OFF if any solenoid coil is locked on or shorted out during first turning on Power up sequence?
Been watching your videos and my hind brain kept whispering 'too new' to me about the restoration. Which didn't make sense since that is what you were trying to achieve. Finally occurred to me that the white looks too white. I don't think that they had the ability to produce paint jobs that were that white. either because white was too expensive when u went that white or it was an ascetic choice in general. I think instead that they used a more yellowish white for large paint areas and saved the - white i will call - ultra white parts, for smaller areas or trim that they wanted to stand out. At lest this is according to my memory of long years hanging out at the arcades, lol.
Either Remove or Add C22 and R28 to convert the sound boards, but what does C22 and R28 do to the sound audio? I'm guessing it changes & alters the pulse width?
Thank you for sharing this info, and for the effort you put into these vids!!! I had NO idea that just acetone would strip that old lead based paint right off! I'm going to try this on my Williams system 6 cabinet restore.
I repaired a lot of arcade boards over the years with good results, but with pinball boards I can't repair a board without loosing some solder pads. They are always the ones without a trace so it's not a big deal, but I don't like the looks of it.
At 15:00 you show streaking running from top to bottom. Most pinball machines that have had someone's drink spill onto the glass will have this. I stick a ~1/2" foam strip with one side being adhesive tape under the lockdown bar. This creates a barrier between the lockdown bar and the glass that will buy me some time to chase down a rag if buddy spills his drink. When taking something apart with lots of parts I use an egg crate and drop small parts in from left to right and grouped. I drop a label in with the part(s) if I think I'll forget where they came from. When I re-assemble there's no question on the order they need to go back in. Always hate have left over pieces :-) Especially like the tip to use Evapo-rust! Nice to know it's reusable. Thanks for making this detailed video.
The light is to show that there are credits on the game. It was done to get around laws that prohibited the credit display due to it being used for gambling.
Nice video - Coin doors can look very daunting, but they really aren't that bad to work on. But, if I was spending $70 on a new skin, I think I would have spent another $10 and got new plastics and maybe a few more bucks for some LED bulbs so they don't melt in the future.
Try it on a scrap one. I'd put it on a clean piece of material that can transfer away heat quickly and the art won't easily transfer to like clean steel. You want to get the surface to get hot by having the flame briefly make contact in passes but you don't want the heat to infuse itself all the way through the plastic deforming it. Just a little wait between passes to let the body re-cool so it doesn't deform. I've done a number of ramps and learned the technique by working on scrap ones.@@rushfanpinball1604
