As a digital Leica guy I really enjoyed the content of this video. Don’t be worried about using your old lenses on the M11 you will probably really like the results
this is VERY LITTLE about the Valoi and mostly about using negative lab pro. That part is good but I wanted to know more about Valoi and how it compares to other units.
Sublimely presented, Jahan. I was considering a Flatbed, but given the less expensive Valoi equipment (I've just finished researching their 360 system), I'd consider the latter to be a no-brainer, & frankly, I have thousands of negatives - a remnant of shooting 35mm exclusively over forty years, it is about time I rendered a digital catalogue of same. Combined with D & P 35mm film stock myself, this will add another exciting dimension to the process; it's a win-win scenario !
Thank you! Yes, it’s a game changer compared to a Flatbed when working through big archives. And I enjoy the fact that you get “raw” images of your negatives, rather than a tiff/jpeg. If you haven’t ordered already: -10% off with the code doyoudevelop on the valoi/kamerastore page :)
Here's a big savings for bulk film: Eastman XX in 400'. Downsides are it may not be available everywhere, and it won't fit in a 100' bulk loader. Still waiting to try bulk loading myself !
@@doyoudevelop sells the 400' roll though? I say that specifically because your savings end up being under $5 a 36exp roll, despite what the initial cost of the giant roll is.
I don't use it because I currently only do B/W, which I prefer doing with inversion technique. But if I was doing colour from home, I'd definitely use it :)
Thank you! I personally use Lightroom and Negative Lab Pro, but I hear excellent things about Capture One too .. essentially you can do the same things everywhere, it just boils down to what program you prefer working with :)
Mega Video, vielen Dank dafür! :) Besitze schon ein Slim Lite Pano Leuchtbrett von Kaiser (wie du auch kurz im Video gezeigt hast). Würde dieses gerne mit dem Valoi Equipment verwenden, frage mich aber grade, wie es da mit dem Abstand zu besagtem Leuchtbrett ausschaut. Das optionale Licht von Valoi passt ja perfekt in die dafür vorgesehen Halterung. Das Kaiser aber natürlich aufgrund der Größe nicht. Dumm gefragt: stelle ich den Advancer dann einfach auf das Kaiser Leuchtbrett? Macht der daraus resultierende größere Abstand (k)einen Unterschied?
Super Frage! Danke Dir dafür. Ganz easy: Jein :D Du kannst natürlich alles einfach auf das Leuchtbrett legen, dementsprechend ist aber auch die Durchleuchtung nicht so stark, eventuell musst du dann mit langsameren Verschlusszeiten arbeiten. Kurz gesagt, ja es ist möglich. Gemütlicher wäre natürlich optionale Licht.
You mention the time it takes, I did all my B&W's for years and with practice, it only 5 or 6 minute per roll. I never had a problem, technical or self induced.
Oh that's not possible, maybe that wasn't clear. With the lights turned on I pre-load the first few centimetres of film onto the reel and then turn off the lights. This just means the loading process is easier because I don't have to fiddle around in darkness trying to get the film onto the reel.
Nothing horrible, but i've had better negative quality after a longer fix. Also less curling. This isn't 100% proven though, just my personal experience :)
When one goes too far to the point of being hypocritical. Your ecological point for not using film is beyond absurd. You know what, maybe it will be also good to not use electricity and soap and that is probably few million times worst than film. People shoot film because it looks like, well, shooting film. They want that result. If one doesn't want or need film, then digital is obvious solution. Babbling on youtube is just that, babbling....same as my comment. And digital Leica doesn't have any advantage except only to tickle somebody's ego...Film one is another story.
Have you experienced any vignetting with this setup? Im seeing people mentioning this with the Easy35, which is the only thing holding me back from buying it at this moment.
I've heard about vignetting and saw some examples of it, but I have checked my unit and it doesn't produce any vignette. I wouldn't worry too much about that though because the fix in Lightroom (or anything else) is really quite effective.
@@doyoudevelop Oh, nice! Maybe people get vignetting from the lens they use. I have the exact same lens as you do, and a Sony, so it will probably be fine. Thanks for the response.
Taking a picture with the Easy360 is easy but the actual workflow of moving the scanned negatives to the computer and then using some software to convert to positive, white balance ets appears very time consuming. You have to post process it for each picture. Then there is an issue of dust removal that dedicated negative/slide scanners can do but this will not. I wonder if it is worth the effort comparing to the dedicated scanner.
I reckon what the Easy35 lacks in post processing speed is makes up with superior quality. If you have access to a decent digital camera, you will get better scans than with any flat bed or similar intermediate scanning system. Each person must figure out for themselves if it's worth their effort .. for me it certainy beats the terribly old and useless scanning softwares like silverfast, epson scan or vuescan.
@@doyoudevelop Thanks for your reply. I currently have the Fuji XE-1 which is many years old. I am in the market to get the new camera. I was thinking of the Fuji X-T5 which is a APSC. Do you think it is better to go with the full frame like the Nikon ZF or something like that?
That's still good! Full frame is obviously the best possible option, but really not a *must have* .. you can get really fine results with a cropped sensor. It also depends if you want to use the camera for other things too, or if it would just be a dedicated scanning camera.@@sfomann
@@doyoudevelop No I am intending to use the camera for regular use too and then whenever I need to scan my old slides and negatives, I can use the easy35. I am still not sure how much time it will require to remove dust artifacts and post process from the camera scans. I have thousands of color negatives and slides!
I would recommend using an anti-static cloth, gloves, perhaps even an ionising gun to remove the ability of the negatives to catch dust. Also with the dust gate of the Easy35 you ensure very few particles make it onto the scan.@@sfomann
Very thoughtful insight into photography. Moral and financial dilemmas . I also have used film for most of my life and have struggled with the film process v the digital. At the end of the day I have decided to shoot film as a passion that makes me happy and shoot digital to get the job done, there is room for both.
Thanks for this video. I’m switching from another scanning system to the Valio 360. I’m curious, in which direction do you load the negatives? Shiny side up or matte side up?
There's nothing faster about this method compared to a flatbed scanner especially if you don't have a dedicated space for the setup. Plus, it's very finicky all that mirror thing, horizon level.. etc.. and NLP is not so reliable..
I'd argue that's very subjective! :D Also my Epson V800 definitely takes up more space than the Valoi. Especially because it's a bulky machine that can't be comfortably rearranged. But hey, thanks for stopping by :)
Worldwide bitcoin mining consumes 3x the electricity of Denmark and that is solely for this single crypto. Cloud storage of Apple or Google needs own nuclear power plants. Energy consumption for manufacturing of micro chips, SSDs or camera sensors is off the roof insane high, electric cars have at least double the footprint of their combustion pendants. I’m engineer (MScEng), don’t believe everything they tell you and definitely don’t worry about EFP (ecological foot print) of film and chemicals used.
I'd love to eventually see some kind of organic sensor which behaves more like film. I'm not sure it's even possible hahah.. but a least it may give some soul back to otherwise dull digital files.
Yes! I mean lots of the old Leica sensors were like this, the M8, M9, they all had that "slide film look" .. it's a shame that modern digital sensors all miss the point in photography.
I must say I have really liked most of your well-weighted comments, not just on photography, film and digital cameras, AI and more in-depth comments about the nature of constraints (not just in photography), the future of photography and where it could lead us to. I am a Kriya Yoga and Tai Chi teacher, Wim Hof Method instructor and I love photography. Keep up what you are doing because it brings not just beauty but a lot of insight to whoever watches and listens carefully. Take care!
Ah that's so kind of you! Thank you so much for your words. That's all very impressive what you are doing. It's nice to see when people notice the parallels between all these things.
How does Valoi equipment fare when scanning color slides? There is a lot of info about scanning films (color or BW negatives) but very few if any about slides.
That's a good point -- i've scanned some fair amount of slides with it and I certainly prefer the results towards traditional scanners. Obviously the key is getting the right light temperature to avoid colour shifts in the film. I usually reference the colours to the colours my slide projector produces against a plain white wall. The overall sharpness is certainly better too, as a macro lens picks up more details than say a traditional flatbed scanner. There's also a slide holder for mounted slides, which allows for quick scanning.
This is the most thorough test I’ve seen on black and white exposure and developing. There are great videos out there but there’s usually at least 1 or 2 variables they decide to not bother with which makes the results less conclusive. I’ve been shooting tri- x forever before it was renamed 400tx. I’ve also noticed recently the rebate on my contact sheets are nearly black when I exposed the paper for max black. So confused as to what they’re doing since tri-x in 120 seems to be normal. I thought my paper developer was bad or I wasn’t developing long enough. Tri-x also seems to be at a minimum a true 200 speed film or even less. Maybe 160. Apparently it used to be marketed as a 200 speed film. My recent hp5 contacts have been near perfect at 400 with extremely bright film rebates with clear sharp text. I’m always on the fence about switching to hp5. I also gave pan f+ another go and it’s now my go to low speed film at 32iso. I’ll be bulk loading soon. Thanks for this great video. Are you shooting tri-x consistently at 200? What’s your go to development time? Mine has always been 9.75m in d76 1:1 or 7min in rodinal 1:25
Thank you so much Eric, your words are very much apprecaited. I have made very similar experiences to you, along with a friend of mine who has always used tri-x since over 20 years. The emulsion and writing has definitely undergone some change, at least in 35mm. I've been metering Tri-X consistently for 200 ISO, as it feels very much like that is the correct true native speed. Develop in Rodinal 7:30 at 20 degrees (1+25).
