@@JimmyCheng What about between the older M6? Classic and TTL? I'm wondering if saving the money to get one of those is worth it even with the risk of losing the light meter at any moment without parts being made to repair it.
Nice review as always. For me, it seems that the deciding factor is the focus tab instead of picture quality. I have been a user of 50 summilux asph v1 for more than 5 years now. It's still one of my favourite lenses.
i believe the reason for the better performance of Leica at close distances is due to the lack of floating element on the Voigtlander. Voigtlander probably would have not been able to make it that compact if they had to incorporate FLE in the lens design. This is one of the reasons why the APO Lanthar is relatively bigger (APO + FLE design) despite having a slower max aperture.
Also with the V lenses, I mostly do zone focusing like on the M it works great and I actually if you want the same that field because it’s a medium format you have to stop it down a little bit more so it’s easier for a zone focusing
Awesome re-review Jimmy! :) Sounds amazing this Nokton can come close to the Lux. I’m curious about your opinion: Would you prefer this Nokton over the new 50mm 2.2 Color Skopar regarding image quality and performance? If I look at the specs the 50mm Nokton in aluminium is only 70g heavier and a bit bigger and features that 1.5 aperture which sounds incredible to me, since I thought that new Color Skopar is already great regarding size and weight based on f2.2 😮🙃
Nice photos! I bought the first version of the VM Nokton shortly after it was released, about 11 years ago. Awesome lens. Back then, I didn’t have the funds for a Summilux, but now that I do, I don’t feel the need to “upgrade”. The optics and ergonomics are as great as they were in 2013. The version II is supposedly a bit sharper - and smaller - but at the expense of strong vignetting at wider apertures.
Cool video. I used several Voigtlander lenses (15mm, 28mm, 50mm, 76mm) for a couple of years and never liked them. Soft, murky and unpleasant bokeh at wide open, particularly the 28mm Ultron and 50mm Nokt. Not good. The 75mm was much stronger. Go for Leica if you’re on the M system. The price is definitely worth it.
I also have this lens in S.C black paint/nickel on my MP and M3. Really was the best choice especially for shooting BnW film. For color I use the 50 Summicron.
Great Review, Jimmy. the nickel brass version voight 50 is so charming in terms of build, best balance between optical quality and size. the only downsides is the focus ring being quite narrow and feel quite sharp. Being 43mm filter size also causes a bit of optical vignette and swirly bokeh wide open, but it brings the len characters. I don't mind softer look wide open for portrait at all. Love this lens so much.
@@JimmyCheng Really? Then may be it's some kind of defect...Actually I bought my M6 reissue because of this video, and my copy is not that hard to turn
I shot Leica for many years since late 70’s but I bought this camera and I love it . Not for action or wild life …. But portrait, land scape and slow moving subjects . IQ is the best and colour so neutral , for me it’s better than my Leica system ( M , SL and Q ) .
Jimmy, it's Joe again. I recently purchased the FLE ii. However, I find when I turn the focus ring to infinity, it actually is not "sharp". I had to make some micro adjustments. This is seen both through the Visoflex and the RF. Is this due to chromatic aberration? focus past infinity, which may need to recalibrate? or simply a faulty unit? Cheers.
@@josephlai1078 If it’s not sharp at infinity through rangefinder then it needs calibration. But you should be able to find a spot that is sharp through liveview to verify this.
The M9 shots were clearly identifiable due to clipped hilights (lower dynamic range) and better out of camera colors. The better colors have nothing to do with the CCD, but actually depend on a more precise auto white-balance algorithm in the M9. You can get same or better colors with M10: just shoot raw and apply a nice custom color profile.
ive used an x1dii in then past and I did love that camera. However now I am using a Sony a7cr and im pretty happy with the results. I do miss the Hasselblad color though. That is the sole reason I want the camera tbh. I wish they would make a newer x1d camera, like x1d version 3. I really do not need 100 megapixels. I suppose you could always downscale the files but still seems like a waste. Thanks for the review. Maybe one day ill give one a try.
@@JimmyCheng Look at Ken Rockwells reviews - he says the same - I have used Voigt;s before on Nikon and Leica (the 1:1) and found them a combination akin to a Lee Soft 1 wide open - however I am always open to being wrong and would love to get away from the seriously pricey Leica M's I own for personal use - Pro wise I use Hass X where sharpness and colour are their thing- good stuff
@@nelsonclub7722 gone are the days of old&soft Voigtlander lenses. They’re new offerings are pretty amazing. I’ve tested nearly all of them. The 50 apo vm, for example, is sharper and better corrected than all Leica glasses (much sharper than summilux asph) except for the apo summicron.
You can adapt third party lenses for the camera. I put a Nikon 58/1.4 on it, no vignettes but manual focus. TCX-01 adapter from Techart that can use AF on Canon EF lenses.
The Voigtlander's major weakness versus the Lux is when you shoot wide open but the focus point is in the mid-frame area, halfway between the center and corner. This is due to the lack of a floating element design in the Voigtlander. Otherwise, they are very close as you illustrated.
Hello Jimmy! I was wondering what is the type of Focal length you feel more comfortable with? and why? Is there also a particular focal length that you like so much but can't have great results when you use it? And what would be the focal length that could help you to grow as a photographer? Maybe you could make a video about those topics in the future? Thank you love your video!
@@Via_Negativa22 good idea! I should really do something like this once I’m done with the lenses I wanna review. I used to be a 35mm shooter, but now I’m more leaning towards 50+28. 28 is pretty demanding when it comes to framing so I think it’s a good focal length to help you grow as a photographer.
do you find the brass version too heavy on leica MP, M10P bodies ? the 35mm f1.5 brass version balances really well on these camera, the 28mm f1.5 is heavier and longer though.
I have the new Leica Summilux-M 50 (plus the f/1.0 and 1.2 Noctilux-M lenses) and will get their APO- (v. 5) and non-APO Summicron 50 lenses. I tested the latter two and found them to render differently enough to justify using both.
@@johnkasianowicz6536 nice lineup you got there. Another 50 that might be interesting would be a brass e43 lux. I found the asph and pre-a lux each has own advantages to justify owning both as well
I tried to get into this system. I decided to buy a couple lenses first since I'd heard they were terribly difficult to get and I didn't want to end up with a camera body I couldn't use. Bought one lens, had to camp the Hasselblad store for months for a chance to buy the other... and then the store didn't send it to me. They put another tracking number into my order, making it look like it'd been fulfilled. Took me two weeks to notice it wasn't my tracking number, and then two months of asking what was going on, before they decided to just cancel my order (costing me hundreds of dollars in currency conversion fees). I'm not about to start camping the store for months again, especially not after it screwed me this bad, so now I can't get into the system and will have to sell the lens I already got at a loss. Awful experience. I strongly recommend not attempting to get into this system, the lenses are too hard to get and their store policies are unacceptable.
I have the M6 2022 reissue and to answer your question - to turn the ISO wheel (which I agree it's very difficult to do) I simply take my thumb and use my shirt to give it some extra grip, and I turn it pretty effortlessly when I do, using just the thumb.
