Wouldn't it be lighter to just use a short retaining piece on the end instead of making a double control rod? We called it "wrapping the wire with thread" in the 70s when building control line jobs. It was just common knowledge and we didn't think of it as a new invention even then. I believe this method has been used since the 16th century dawn of control rods.
Spelar Yngve varje jul här jag bor i mitt gamla barndomshem, och helt plötsligt på något vis känns det som mina sedan länge bortgångna föräldrar är med och firar julen! Speciellt min far älskade denna låten!!
Terrific way to protect the electronics with minimum weight added. Just purchased my first Lemon Rx and will be buying more of them and will use your shrink wrap method to protect them.
I got the protocol modules to fly my hubsan ..not sure if I shorted something out but I will turn it on and not even enough time for me to get in the settings..the screen goes out
I did this but with a good hairdryer - worked perfectly - almost purchased a heat gun but now I am glad I didn't find one right away :) Thanks for your instructions, a really nice hack!
I'm just getting back into RC after a break of nearly 20yrs, & this video could have just saved my model..............I bought this radio 2nd hand, but it was only used a few times by an old boy that has given up modelling due to health problems in mode 2,..... but I fly mode 1. The throttle gimble potentiometer, which becomes the elevator potentiometer in mode 1 is very loose in it's housing, & is not very smooth when out of the radio. It does work, & has given no problems, but I need to replace it now as I just don't trust it. The other 3 seem fine. I watched this video 3 times thinking "I can't do that", but once you get into it, it's not too bad. Only difference between the video & my radio is that on mine everything is hot-glued in place
Brev sänt till Termorör AB: Igår (den 3e juni) klockan 15.20 körde en av era bilar med registreringsnummer YMD927 om mig och en långtradare när vi var stillastående i en korsning. Vägen var enfilig med refug. Er bil körde om oss på HÖGER sida. För att komma förbi körde föraren upp på trotoaren/cykelbanan! Där fick han/hon möte med en cyklist som han så när frontalkolliderade med. Är det med ert bolags tillåtelse som era anställda leker rallyförare i trafiken och utsätter oskyddade medtrafikanter för dödsfara? Händelsen finns dokumenterad på video. Videon är tillgänglig via denna länk: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-z2lFyQZb360.html Kommer ni att polisanmäla det inträffade självmant? eller måste jag göra det själv?
Friend Do you no if I can use the Frsky R9M* (900MHs) module with the Turnigy 9XR radio with DEFAULT FIRMWARE? Or do I have to FLASHED TO OPENTX? *www.banggood.com/FrSky-R9M-900MHz-Long-Range-Transmitter-Module-3X-R9-MM-416CH-Receiver-with-R9MM-T-Antenna-Combo-p-1379640.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=HK
Jag är släkt med Yngve Stoor på pappas sida, men vet ej om det är biologiskt eller ingift. Jag visste inte att det var han som gjort den här låten ! Jag har hört den förut o tycker den är fin☺️
Hi sir. I have quanum cyclops diversity V2 and i notice after 2 tine used, one upper white line, horrizontally, on the display.. What can it be. I opened hoping îs some cable connections, but all is the same.. Thanks
This makes it very easy to remove without unscrewing the servo horn! Thanks ! Been looking at this hobby on youtube for about 3 years and just now found this.
Yes and No. I do not plan any new versions, but when I finished the project I had crammed in every single feature I could think of and it all works well. There simply isn't anything left to do.
Hi. I need your help. the first time I flashed fail, I tried the second time but It could not detect my module. and They said :" avrdude.exe: set SCK frequency to 1500000 Hz avrdude.exe: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update. avrdude.exe: error: programm enable: target doesn't answer. 1 avrdude.exe: initialization failed, rc=-1 Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override this check." How can I fix It? Thank you
The first part of the message about the clock speed is irrelevant. You will always get it. The second part of the message tells you that the programmer was not able to connect to the CPU. The reason can be that you have not connected the wires correctly or that you did not power the receiver board before trying to communicate with it.
thank you. I connected Miso-miso, sck-sck, rst-rst , mosi-mosi, and vcc, ground. I have also checked the broken wire before I clicked DETECT but It did not work. some people tell me that I should replace by a new atmeage328p, Is that good advice for me?
If you are 100% sure that everything is connected correctly and you are still not able to connect, you can try and replace the processor. There really isn't much else that may have broken. This is fairly straightforward using a hot air station, but very difficult with only a soldering iron.
Somewhat more than the original enclosure, since the air circulation around the component is restricted. On the other hand RC receivers do not produce much heat at all so overheating is not really a problem.
Hi Kjell - when you did the low voltage test how do you know it wasn't the servo giving up rather than the receiver? If that had been me I would powered the servo from a separate supply to show when the RECEIVER gave up. Just a thought, no criticism intended. Great video otherwise, now subscribed. I realise it's the combination that counts in the air but different servos may give different results and you are testing the receiver after all.
i updated the firmware on my headset and soldered in the screen but the screen stays black, and the goggles are the same as without the screen. is there something i'm doing wrong?
Just completed this upgrade, everything went according to plan. Kjell thank you for all your hard work and for sharing it with us it is very appreciated. Stupid Question I know but what do I set the Battery Calibration to ?
The strange item is a "Whip Finishing Tool". It is used for making the finishing not when you tie flies for fly-fishing. You may just as well tie the not by hand, but once you have learnt to use a tool, you never look back.
Still in doubt about which firmware version to use. The con about this particular mod is that you physically need to cut a trace, which doesn't really make this undoable. While the other version with the external display seems more friendly in terms of reverting. Besides that I'm wondering what would be more pratical. At first the external display seemed a little but clunky and unhandy to me, but when I'm thinking about it, it would maybe be handy to be able to setup things without needing to wear the goggle at that moment.
The trace you cut looks like it has a soldering pad on one end, and the connector's pin pad on the other end. So you can undo it by soldering a wire between those points. See: github.com/Dvogonen/cyclop_plus_plus/blob/master/SOLDERING.md
Yeah ofcourse, but I meant you do damage you can't revert the same way, like just desoldering things. You damaged the trace permanently, and only by soldering a bypass wire you can fix it again.
What if you 'connect' to a certain channel via the auto scan mode, and while flying someone close accidentally puts power on their quadcopter. Will the channel change then again? Because that's what happening with my stock firmware now, which scares me a bit.
