Dude i knew you looked familiar.. you were a witness in the RUST movie court case.. obviously.. at 1hr 16 mins by way of example... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-raz7-khoNlk.htmlsi=Klc915E-BiuMwxbR
m4 is obviously the best choice but its wether someone can afford it 😂 i am a fulltime detailer i ceramic coated and paint corrected one it was gorgeous. one thing i will say in zhp Favor is instant acceleration just like my e46 m3, the m4 def has a "jerk and lag" upon acceleration and shifting my client said you cant get away from the jerk only get better at controlling it. although he had f82 m4 Comp
not really a bargain anymore every kid with a beat up zhp asking m3 money, i just bought an e46 m3 6 speed manual coupe hardtop w premium package and cold weather package for 12.7k
@@startingtech3900 it’s great. We don’t drive it much primarily because of life and other vehicles. However, when we do take it out, we enjoy every single mile and are reminded of just how great of a product it is.
I have someone offering to trade an 04 330i zhp sedan with 6 speed. Unfortunately 245k miles but said motor was just “refreshed” with handful of motor and suspension mods with a big ole wing lol. He wants to trade me for my 11 g37x coupe. Auto. 135k miles. Mainly stock but is a good looking car with lapis blue and painted roof and wheels black. What yall think? That’s a lot of miles on a Beamer I feel but then again I don’t know shit about beamers 😂
Pics aren’t documentation. I’m assuming it was a DIY build. Does the individual have parts receipts to validate what was done and the quality of parts used? I wouldn’t normally shy away from something like this but… with the car that you have, something sounds off. I could be completely wrong. Just do your homework.
@@DepreciationNation I heard that. He also had a sick 06 c55 amg with 145k miles that he wanted to trade for a g37 but bc mine was listed 2k below his was he didn’t wanna trade lol
Add factory (look) navigation. Get ready to replace front lower control arms. Keep an eye on coolant level weekly. It is fast. It is not quick. Know the difference. 145 mph is a fast top speed. 0-60 mph in 7.8 seconds is not considered quick anymore. 22 mpg is pretty good. It would be so much (15%) better with a modern six or eight speed transmission.
My dad got this car new in 2005, and right now I drive it. It has almost 195k miles, and it drives amazing, I really enjoy it. Aside from some minor needed repairs such as rolling some windows down, a bit of fabric coming undone, and a few dings from people hitting the car, it performs great, runs and sounds amazing. It almost feels like it drives almost brand new!
Couldn’t agree more. These have aged very well. Mine is in need of a headliner and wheel refinish but it’s still solid and drives very well. We will get there with it.
Thanks for the feedback. Overall… 2 years in, it’s still in great shape. Fitment isn’t perfect and you’ll need to take your time gluing and trimming on the back wheel spokes but… all in all very good quality.
I know that it is difficult to make videos and often very time-consuming. However, for what it is worth, it would be nice if you pronounced Porsche correctly and lower the background music. I don't mean to be critical, but it is quite distracting.
I met Chuck back in '85 when he had his shop in Upland,CA. I drew the phantom view of his 550 for the brochure when I was a student at Art Center College. He was just completing car #75 and gave me a thrilling fast ride it his own car with a racing VW motor in it. I came back later and he was building his 911 powered car with a double tubed chassis. Great guy and I'm happy to see he and his son are doing well.
bro, thanks for the video , i have lexus IS AWD 250 2010 with 100000 mils on it , When i chabge the gear to natural car turns off I dont know what the issue is. Overall car dose nat have annny issue all is porfect
When you unplug the MAF, the car goes into an alpha tune meaning… it goes into a bare bones fuel map to keep the motor running. If the car won’t run with the MAF plugged-in, you either have a massive vacuum leak or a bad MAF.
Yes… you’re correct. When we recorded, the engine sound was distorted and sounded terrible. Ultimately we should’ve re-recorded it but we didn’t know until editing. It was clearly an oversight that I’m reminded of again and again. Thank you for watching though. Prices escalated quicker than I forecasted but it’s still a phenomenal car.
I have just had my bmw x3 2.0 petrol which burns a lot of oil on an engine test at a bmw workshop. There they established that the compression was good and equal on all cylinders, and the crankcase ventilation was ok. They stated that this car has been to them before for hot running/overheated engine and they tried engine flush and another type of oil without any help. Ignition error in the error memory, but it probably has nothing to do with the oil consumption. The engine does not smoke blue on a cold start, nor on hard engine braking, which are symptoms of bad valve seals, but a lot of blue smoke when the gas pedal is pressed quickly at idle and when accelerating after idling. Even if the compression test is ok, I suspect that the oil rings may have been damaged because the engine has been run hot/overheated. Any opinions on this?
@@DepreciationNation No, there is no engine light in the dashboard. There is very little blue smoke when starting the engine, but a lot after idling for 5-10 minutes and when accelerating. It does not smoke blue when decelerating in gear, which I have tried many times. There is a slight vacuum at the filling hole for engine oil and the tube to the dipstick. There is also very poor power in the engine, so I'm probably guessing that it is the piston rings/cylinder that is at fault. I'm going to take the car to the workshop for an engine check tomorrow so I'll probably get an answer to the problem then. I have heard that this engine N46B20B is a problem engine with poor quality cylinder liners.
@@DepreciationNation Doubt that they are so very worn since it smokes minimally when starting at cold engine and not when braking with the engine when downshifting on downhills, but it smokes an awful lot when accelerating after idling so I can hardly see in the mirror what is behind the car may also have slightly worn valve seals in addition to worn piston rings/cylinders since it burns such an awful lot of oil, a minimum of 3 liters per 1000 km. But it is also possible that the ccv is also bad. The power of the engine can be compared to an old vw carravelle 2.4 suction diesel that I had for some a few years ago.
@@DepreciationNation it was OEM, (the car was running just fine before the issue occurred with that MAF) but i suppose it could spontaneously fail though. however today even with it unplugged the issue remained persistent (stalling after starting up sometimes with throttle). As well, the negative fuel trims were still there.
@@DepreciationNation 146,022 miles. not sure if the cats would be clogged at that mileage? I will read the voltage from the O2s, and check fuel pressure/regulator/filter. The intermittent stalling seems like a likely candidate for exhaust and crankshaft position sensors? O2 sensors don't cause the car to die right after it turns on? (i understand it could be causing the negative fuel trims though, possibly separate issue)
I don't understand? So you're saying that the CCV valve sucks the vapors back down in to the oil pan? So it's designed to cause oil dilution? I thought the purpose of these systems was to remove the vapors/gases from the oil pan/ crank case by sucking them into the cylinder to be burned? Or is the purpose of this system completely different from a PCV system?
The CCV valve is basically an oil separator. It has one inlet and two outlets. The inlet comes from the valve cover. The bottom outlet returns oil extracted from the vapor back to the oil pan, and the other outlet returns the vapors to the intake manifold to be burned off.
I am having the same experience right now, there's no DTC codes but the sound is really prominent it like there's another exhaust pipe on the right side of the engine(front of the passenger side). I am crossing my fingers that only gasket need to be replaced and not the whole exhaust manifold.
Mine is exactly like yours. Same color exterior, same color interior ( the two-tone color is MUCH more attractive than just solid black), same wheels, same AWD. I absolutely love my car. It's not super powerful, but, who cares, it's fast enough. It's not a sports car., but a luxury sport sedan. It's super reliable, and the build quality is excellent. Plus, you can brag that you drive a Lexus!
