Is there an alternator on this? I have a 13k watt, same style as this and the battery keeps draining every month. Brand new battery, so I feel like it's an alternator issue or trickle charger. Can't seem to see anything, so figured I'd ask the internet for help!
I have a different model of Axiom but can you not increase and decrease the feed rate with your controller? For example your Y buttons and the spindle Z buttons.. I do it constantly on mine. Sometimes I’ll increase the speed significantly through long grain cuts and then back it down right when it’s approaching a cross grain transition.
A great video to show that a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. Your camera work is horrendous, since 90% of your bench assembly was outside of the camera view. You've implemented a number of connections and and procedures that do not conform to the electrical code and would never pass an inspection. Just because it works, does not mean that it's done right. If your house ever burns to the ground, the fire marshal will have a forensic inspection of your electrical systems analysed and when the electrical code violations are identified, your home insurance policy will be rendered null and void and you'll receive no compensation to rebuild your home. Take this video down before you inspire another DIY'er to destroy their home.
Why are you cutting that deep, do you WANT your tools to break? Or just make them dull enough to not cut properly anymore? If you did it in several passes, your speed could be much faster.
no, tube + powersupply of 100W or more... the k40 one is already rated for 100W max output so u might not need a new power supply. however a 150W powersupply might be required if u want to use the new tube higher then 70% consistently and not run into cooling issues... also u need more glycol .... bigger bucket for cooling, and maybe stronger pump then an aquarium one.
thank you so much for your video upload Alan! just what I was looking for!!! could you please share the link for the Pen Blank Centering Vice? I require to purchase one for a similar project like yours (I need to drill holes in the pieces in order to fit DGT resonators-for an e-board). could you please share : 1- what is the maximum jaw opening of the vice, 2- what is the max height of a chess piece I can fit in the vice? (I own a chess set with a 3.8" (97mm) King height, with a 1.7" (44mm) base, would that fit in the sliding jaws? also , is there any hole below the jaws? any help is greatly appreciated! <3
All confusion and complete lack of electrical safety aside!!! He used white PVC as Electrical conduit! The nest of wires bulging out of his service panel! Tapping a circuit is fine if done with pigtails and wire nuts to secure the joints! Tapping onto a ground wire “bare copper” for use as a neutral “white” for use of 120v off of a 240 receptacle!!! REALLY??? This is literally electrifying his entire grounding system. The generator he says puts out 95 Amps yet he says he’s going to run 6 awg wire which is only rated at 55 Amps! This guy is the reason why there’s house electrical fires and the entire reason electricians say electrical is not a DIY job. PLEASE NOBODY DO WHAT THIS GUY IS SHOWING YOU, THIS WOULD JEOPARDIZE YOUR FAMILY, HOME AND PROPERTY IF YOU DO WHAT HE’S DOING!!!!!!!!!!
Important Note! SawStop requires a Special Spec for the Dado Blades that they recommend for their Saws. From what I understand "Freud" isn't one of them, because they use the Anti Kick back design/the Tooth Shoulder design that SawStop doesn't recommend! I know this because I just tried to use my Freud Blade and was told by SawStop it isn't recommended!
I have the same generator on a 250 gal underground propane tank and have had no problems other than the motor mount base on the left side looking down are rusitng out. Runs every week for 10 min on exercise mode for years. Last big maintenance was in 2019. It actually ran for 9 days after Hurridacane IAN the fall of 2022 no problems. One issue I've had is changing the oil and I can't tell if I've under/overfilled it becuase the oil is so clean....
Intake air leak, vacuum is what opens the fuel valve, te valve itself, low battery, low cranking speed,, spark plugs, ask ChatGPT! Would love to hear if he helped,,
Are you letting it run for 10 min every week? Exercise mode reminds me every week to take out the gargabe for pickuk the next day. When you need it is not the time to troubleshoot it. After Huriane IAN, we switched over to a 10K gas generator, not becuase the generator failed, but becuase we didn't reliably know how much fuel was left and our neightborts were hooked up to us to run Cpaps...
You don't need me, look who wrote it (at the bottom) ChatGPT! He writes everything now for me, website intro, ads selling my chess sets. its great, just ask and he will come up with just the right tone and intensity! It the new best thing! Thanks for watching! all of you should give a thumbs up and subscribe. free on you ends, no emails. but I get good marks for having subscribers! Glad you enjoyed it!
In all seriousness, I would like to try. Send me a synopsis (or a copy of the video) of a video you would want intro-ed. I would love to try. Who knows, we might be on to something. If nothing else, it might be humorous.
a side benefit of the 4th axis sure seems to be the ability to run with out dust collection? I have a Harvey g700 dust system and it sure isn't as quiet as I was led to believe . So the machine noise of the bit cutting the stock is what I would need to mitigate . I know it isn't the quietest tool when in use but any noise reduction is good..
NO. you need something. At the very least, a shop vac. There was 1/2 trash can of shavings just from 32 small chess pieces. As for the noise? My dust collector (Carl, the night watchman -2 hp cyclone w canister) lives outside, a 4 inch hose passed through the wall, Very quiet out there, but sucks out all the heat from the shop.
Hey that you for posting your video. I own an axiom elite ar8 2X4 bed machine. I have had it since November. I am still learning every time I use it. My biggest thing I kill myself with is my tollerances. I seem to always make them too tight . But I am most intrigued by the "4th axis"unit. I was wondering if you have to own aspire to use the lathe. I was also wondering how the learning curve was to get up and running on your first project using the 4th axis.
You don't have to own Aspire. V-Carve (Not sure about desktop version) Pro consumes 3-D models in the form of .stl, .v3m, .3dm, . .skp, .rlf, .3ds, .asc, .prj, .x, .dxf, .lwo, .wrl, .obj. I bought the 3-D models from etsy in the form of downloaded .stl files for around 6 bucks, C'mon! You're not afraid of a little learning curve? 'Sides, that's just something someone just made up. As for up and running? It takes longer to setup than it does to generate your first rotary g-code. You do have to turn it in in the pendant or whatever controls the machine. They will explain all the details of getting up and running (and true). Chad at Axiom tech support is a wealth of information. I have had some really strange problems with mine, but working together we were able to find tht the drive sprocket had lost its set screw (slipped on the shaft, but tight enough to turn, but with no torque) Let me know if I can help!
Can you hear it? "Timmy don't! Timmy don't!" or "Hootenanny, Hootenanny, Hootenanny" or "Let me at 'em, Let me at 'em, Let me at 'em" or "Bag o baloney, bag o baloney"? Maybe it's just me, alone in my head. What would be cool: Design a cutting path similar to the music roads. Modify the path to produce distinct sound. Kinda like an old Edison recorder/player.
Hi, I am working with the same blueprints and I’m having the same issues with acute cuts for several letters. Once you set your 45degree jig where do you set your saw to get your 13.2 angle? Also I’m using 5” wide pieces to give it a little more depth will your method still work? I’m using a 12” sliding miter saw. Thank you
If you pause the video at 1:50, you can se the sheet I used to calculate the angle. The saw was set at 45 degrees, Wouldn't it have been cool if I said "Here, Hold my beer" just before I made the cut? If I had to do it again, I would use a belt sander or disk sander. My saw is a 12" slider, also. I think these pieces were 4" tall. You would have to try it to see if 5" would work. Also, you could cut part way, then finish with a Japanese pull saw (Dozuki). Let me know when you get out of the hospital! BTW: "This video is intended for amusement only, not a recommendation on how to do something dangerous!" (disclaimer so you don't sue me if it goes badly.
I didn’t install a smart panel as you did. I just installed a 200 amp ATF switch. the 20 kw was enough to run a house with all gas appliances. I made the mistake of changing out the factory 90 amp breaker at the generator with a 125 amp. So when I overloaded it trying the run the older air compressor, it went passed the 125 beaker and the CTB and shorted the windings in my alternator. How it got passed the CTB and to the alternator ?
I have a 16kw guardian like this one with hard starting. I think it needs a valve lash adjustment and also some intake gaskets. not sure what you did to yours but mine is of the same era/age and has low hours.
so, what all was involved in your rebuild. i found a 2002 20KW with less than 3hr's on it. I then made the big mistake and replaced the factory 90 amp breaker with a 125 amp . two weeks ago we lost power, for some reason i wanted to see if this unit would run my very old 5hp air compressor. well, it shut down my unit. It would restart but would keep trying to restart while already running. i picked up a new CTB , but still doing the same thing. BTY after a few times of the restarting it shuts down. I know the shutdown is because the CTB is not seeing power. hopefully I didn't burn up the windings. any help will be greatly appreciated
Does not sound good! I am assuming the "CTB" is the controller board. Also assuming, that in 2002, the units were "dumb". IE, no display, just a row of red lights. Overspeed/No RPM Sense may have been lit in this case. Also, Over Crank could have been lit. My unit controls its speed (also hertz) by watching the output of the stator. No output would keep cranking. It would not know it was already running. Over crank comes on when it has tried 3 times and never got a signal (output power at a required hertz). [I believe this is what you experienced when you said after a few times of the restart cycle, it shut down for good. Power off/power on to get it going again?] How to quickly test your stator: Open the breakers on the unit, then remove top cover panel. Try and start the unit, just for a sec. Watch for a red led on the box on the right. (the box on the left is the battery charger.) No red LED, no power to the control module (CTB?). With the unit OFF (!), check continuity of the 2 legs (windings. Each winding puts out 120 volts, 180 degrees out of phase. Together they output 240 volts.) Check each of the 2 fat wires (might be black) going into the circuit breaker to the common neutral (might be white). Each, hot to neutral, should be around 20 - 30 ohms. Maybe even lower. Then check to each other, (black to black) Should be open lead, no continuity between windings. This is the manual page how to test www.manualslib.com/manual/807129/Generac-Power-Systems-Corepower.html?page=35 Gotta ask: Why did you want to change the 90 amp breaker? And what does CTB mean? I do understand the trying to “See what this baby will do” impulse is. First run of the house test, I HAD to try the A/C! Email me! I want to hear how this ends!
Natural gas connection. Need a new regulator for backup propane. Tell me about what you acquired? Did you get the transfer switch with it? Was it running? Or did you need to work on it? Mine is I think, 2009 vintage. Plain Jane, but works as advertised! Are you keeping yours? Or did you get it to fix up and sell? Thanks for the comment! I would love to hear more about yours, if you plan on installing it and what you are going to do about the wiring.
The blades I used for the video were Freud (part number: D208M or SD208 depending on where you look on the label), 8" (printed on the blade), and they do measure 8-1/8 inch as you say. But the blade brake can handle the extra 1/16th (.0625 per side). Might have been tight, but in the end, required clearance was met. Probable could have handled blades 8-1/4? Just guessing but the dado blade brake (break!) works fine with Freud blades.
@@DragonwoodDesigns I agree with you. I found I could clear the brake, but am tight on the required clearance. My saw is the contractor model. So, I run in the bypass mode and it works.
@@williambullock6127 You're lucky! If you can run in bypass, you don't need to get the extra brake. That was the first thing I tried. Found the PCS 3 hp errors out if no blade. Would be the same thing as a smaller blade, ie an 8" dado, Yes, I did have to adjust the position, almost to the limit, but the supplied thickness gauge fit as required for proper operation. Just remember to set it back when putting on your regular 10" blade. If you don't, it will still run, but due to the increased distance, more teeth are going to pass before the blade stops and drops. Changing a possible scrape to stiches.
I’d never ever have a saw/stop machine in my shop. For what you pay for one a tech should come out for free$$ every time we need to use a dado stack. For gods sake who has that kind of time to tie up a shop. My powermatics and grizzly’s are just safe enough for us.
How about the logic of paying 3-4 thousand dollars to not have the option to use the saw the way you want? The bypass system should be a complete bypass turning it into a regular table saw. Instead the saw decides if it’s going to let you bypass.
I like your system. I survived the Oregon ice storm but sure would have liked to have been prepared for it with a system like this. Thanks for sharing!
Alan, any chance of show the final laser mounting, enclosure, and how you mounted the power supply? I’m planning an upgrade of my 50W laser to 100W and would love to see what you did.
You compared trying to run the saw without a blade with the standard brake to running the saw with a dado stack with the dado break. What is the point of this? The saw will not fire up without a blade whether you have the standard brake or the dado brake installed.
I wanted to know if the dado brake was absolutely required. I didn't find anything on Y-Tube or in the manual on whether this would work or not. Was there something in the manual that I missed? My bad if I did. I wouldn't mind making dado cuts with the safety disabled and spend the extra $100 on wood or supplies. The fact that the saw detected no blade near the brake and errored out proved my point (to myself). I think I even tried it in bypass mode (brass key on side). Still, no joy. Once the $100 goodie was added, the saw works as expected. I have not had the saw trip on either brake, although after cutting 8/4 hard maple it just shut off, mid cut. I cycled the power and it worked fine for a couple of days. Then it did it again. I reset and finished the job and have not had the opportunity to cut anything that thick since. Things have slowed down since the p-demic. Thanx for watching, tho. It was a fun video to make!
@@DragonwoodDesigns Regardless of which brake you have installed, the saw will not start without a blade in it. You proved nothing. Put the standard brake in, put the dado blade on, put it in by pass and try to start it. To clarify, I have no idea if that will work... But that's what you said you wanted to try in the video but you didn't actually try it.
@@bswinter2 It wont I tried on my PCS. I wish I could run 7 1/4 circular saw blades on Sawstop because of the narrow kerf. But they won't work either even if I use the brake for 8 inch dadoes. Kind of a bummer for me.
