THE FORCES OF NATURE WATERPOWER WIND POWER COMPRESSED AIR POWER The only truly Green Engine of the future, Designing and Building the ~ COMPRESSED AIR ENGINE
I’m not sure who or what is responsible, but viewers and subscriptions have increased exponentially in the last month and a half - but I’m not going to complain. Thank you for all your help. I may have to hire a secretary to respond - joke
Cool project! I built a single cylinder 2 valve air powered motor for my science fair when I was in middle school. It ran off of surgical tubing that I would pump up and once the flywheel was started, the cylinder would tale a gulp of air and the surgical tubing would collapse in volume accordingly with each cycle. I used clear acrylic tubing for cylinder and valves with ping pong balls under spring pressure for valves that seated on O-rings so all internal workings could be seen. The following year I tried to make the motor power a wheeled vehicle, but unfortunately it just wasn’t powerful enough.
Thank you for responding with your experimenting story. My beginning was similar. I would say it worked, but not very well and the amount of air that was necessary was just impractical. Over the years I got things a little better but even today an enormous amount of air is still going to be required for any small distances.
Thanks for the sticking with me, and the question? I think getting it put in, lined up to the transmission, adding a temporary air supply, and crossing my fingers to see that it moves the car? What happens there, will determine my next steps!
This is what the art of invention is about - turning concepts into physical reality by simply having a go, and hopefully the investment in it pays off in the long-run. Wishing you every success with it!
Thank you for your comment I have a compressor at home, I compress enough air into a tank to go some where an go back home before I run out of air and fill up my tank again for my next trip
Sir Can I ask you Is your Motor Remaking air, so you don't lose, your Power, as air capacity,lowers, If you are That is amazing, You showed it works by the Video of your sit down Mower., Just ask Jesus for Help, He always comes though.
Hi, and thanks for your comment. If you stop and think about it, the steam engine has a boiler with water in it that is heated with fuel externally, and that builds pressure in the boiler that is transferred into the cylinder at which time it pushes the piston. Compressed air is compressed in a tank at high-pressure losing heat in the process and when that pressure is rereleased into the cylinder, the air expands by absorbing heat from the surroundings which increases the temperature And pressure of the air in the cylinder pushing the piston. Even though air feels cold when it blows, it is being warmed
Pretty neat what you're doing. I've fiddled around a little with steam engines, and while that's not what this is, there may be some good ideas in that whole science you can tap into, they worked on that technology for more than a hundred years. The first thought (IF I understand what you have done) is when the piston receives the compressed air at 75psi, depending on the stroke the air pressure exiting may still be significantly above ambient and might be able to power another piston. This was done routinely in the past, where the areas of the pistons and swept volumes were sized such that the air pressure exiting then entered a cylinder with a piston diameter and stroke that would use up the remaining pressure efficiently, then overboard. A two stage system. The other thing I noticed (again, I may be getting how this works wrong...) you have single acting pistons, if so the stroke upwards to top dead center is drag on the system and doesn't provide power. It's not clear to me you would have a more efficient engine if you had a double acting piston assembly, but it would produce more power. Maybe you could turn the side of the piston with the rod attached in the high stage piston and the other side of the piston in the low stage (pressure) piston, which would be an interesting arrangement. In any event, my hat's off to you, I'm here on my backside surfing the net and there you are DOING SOMETHING!!. You've just inspired me to go get something done!
Hi and thank you for your comment. As a matter of fact, I am working on going through my comments, complaint suggestions, and and all the good things and I plan on making my next video through the numerous ideas and will talk about why I’m doing what I’m doing and why I’m doing it the way I’m doing . My original goal some 20 years ago was to design a simple easy to work on efficient as possible to use the least amount of air to get the most mechanical advantage out of the machine which I call an engine. Some people say it’s not it’s a motor, but. Anyway, you have some good ideas and I thought about those and it’s hard to explain but doing those things would just increase the size weight, complexity, and increase the amount of air that would be necessary such as double acting cylinders. I’m using 2 inches of air and using a double acting cylinder, I would use 4 inches , do the same thing. Anyway, I’ll be making a video soon and cover the things you suggested also - see you then
Internal Combustion Engines (ICE) transform potential chemical energy into kinetic energy. Hydraulic, pneumatic, and electric MOTORS convert stored potential energy into angular energy. You have designed a pneumatic motor, not an engine. Steam would be much more efficient, due to Latent heat of Vaporization. Energy losses due to adiabatic cooling, of the air, make it extremely inefficient.
Thank you for your comments, and you have good points. Compressed Air does work through expansion inside a closed cylinder to produce motion which I am trying to use to it maximum potential. I am trying to build the most efficient Engine for use with compressed air and its properties. As compressed air expands it absorbs as much heat as it can, and it expands accordingly to how much heat it absorbed. I realize expanding air has no comparisons with explosive gasses, but there are ways to add heat to air before release and/or during expansion. Adding or somehow Saving heat, is another area of research for me. When I can't improve the mechanical device anymore, I'll work on expansion ideas. Thanks again for following along with my endeavor.
@@AirEngineResearch Thank you for the response. Didn't have a fair comprehension of the endothermic properties of an expanding gas. I think all research yields benefits in some manner. Additionally a compound ICE/motor could have great heat control potential. Please don't allow my ignorance to be disparaging, formal education can cause one to be myopic to a potential revolution in man harnessing of energy. Having read Power Hungry: myths of green energy, I tend to doubt things that seem to contradict Jevon's Paradox. ie making things less efficient causes people to reduce demand. Your retort is well appreciated.
Awesome! I wonder if there could be a self centering shape you could put on the rings that could work like the way a belt will self center on a domed pulley to keep the rings from rubbing.
Thanks again for your comments and suggestions, and I have thought about various ways to do what you’re talking about, but that also presents the problem with installing the internal driveshaft rotator. I’ve taken the dividers away and that didn’t cause a problem. I was probably being over concerned about the rings not running true, which turned out to be not a problem. I’m already working on the next video which has improved performance and much less noise with those dividers gone.
it seems your engine would be more optimal on lower psi and lower rpm, rather than shaking the whole thing apart. you dont need the high rpm for power like a gas motor does . so having a coulple tanks at 3 or 4 thousand psi and regulating it down to 100 or so would give you power and longevity on the air supply. what are your thoughts ?
Thanks for your thoughts and following along. In order to meet my requirements for use in my car, it has to have both the power and the speed to allow me to go between 50 and 60 mph Using my old Pickup as a gauge, I need 2400 RPMs to go 60 miles an hour and horsepower I would imagine somewhere around 40 hp, so how do I come up with that? It’s gonna be a combination of cylinder size but also minimize the amount of air that used and depending on how much pressure would be required to make the engine run at 2400 RPMs so right now it’s too soon to tell I would just be speculating
This is really impressive. I get one off first of a kind straight from engineering equipment running for a living and I'm happy to see the progress. I would love to see it in person.
Thanks for your comment and appreciate your following my channel. I’m hoping the best is yet to come. This is just the preliminary put together and see what problems I’m having and see where I can improve and each time it gets a little better as you’ll see in my next video.
Thank you for the question and for checking in. There is a reason that I am not using a standard engine, steam engine or gasoline, engine, or car engine, there’s no way you could carry enough air to go anywhere. The engine that I’m working on only uses half as much air as a standard crankshaft uses, and the four-cylinder one that I’m working with now using a 80 cubic foot scuba tank at 1000 psi will only run for just a few minutes so in order for it to run any distance it’s going to have to have a large high-pressure 5000 6000 psi tank. I’m trying to make it as efficient as possible to go as far as possible, but I won’t know that until it’s finished.
Another video from this idiot that thinks he is an inventor. We'll all be dead before you are able to power a vehicle with this dumb idea. I guess I'll consider you comedy
Thanks for you comment, even though you think it's a dumb idea. Really it's no different than any other gasoline or diesel engine, it's just that compressed air is not as powerful so needs more to do the same job. If one can come up with a way to increase the heat absorption during or before expansion of the air, it would be a much more powerful renewable power source. It's an endeavor I'm willing to work on.
Y not use steam turbine...single stage would work...i like your engine but turbine is so much easier... There is guy his chanel name is fixfocus he designed turbine that is pretty good powerful.good luck
I would love to use something simpler like a rotary engine or a turbine, but I can’t carry enough air to give those turbines or rotary engines What they want so I have to have a piston that I have direct control over. It rotates 1 time and makes a wheel turn 1 time
Take care, you are getting older . . . But I am pleased to see your project, still keeps you going ! Why are your valves so "massive" ? There is no forces on, them rather than pressure. They look like they could carry elephants 😊
Hi and thanks for well wish. Your question why the Valve and Cylinder Head is so large - well it is 2 1/4" Square and 3 3/4" long and compared to the rest of the engine in comparison it just looks big? The Cylinder has to swing back and forth and I don't want to have 2 separate Valves with flexible air lines. Another reason is the Valve timing is controlled by the swing as the head and cylinder swing, otherwise I would have to come up with a separate way to time it - more parts. The Valve Holes, internal Air holes, Cylinder hole and bearing holes make it necessary for the Valve Head to be that size to clear each other.
What if you had spring driven compressor? § Although i think having a cryogenic gas boiler is the bestvway to provide fuel with the " "boiler " being 50°F- 80°F or so, possibly using a super heated section just before the engine heating the gas in a 2-4 litre tank to 100-150°F to get the most from the volume of gas! Basically behaving like a cold steam engine! Have an awesome day!
Thanks for following along with my project, and for your comments and thoughts on various types of energy. My goal is to build and use a small efficient compressed air engine to replace the gasoline engine in my car. I realize compressed air does not provide the same power as fossil fuel, but it does have expansion force after being compressed to high pressures. Trying to increase that expansion rate could be done with some added device like you suggest above by heating it, but would require some type of device or fuel to do it adding weight and cost if possible. I will be using a carbon fiber storage tank at pressures around 5000 to 6000 psi, and releasing air at that pressure is essentially the same as boiling water. Using steam engine is using water vapor pressure that has been expanded in a boiler and release at that high pressure - but doesn't expand more - if left in the cylinder it will cool and contract. In a compressed air engine just the opposite happens, the longer it is in the cylinder it warms and expands. To run a car the engine the rpm need to be a minimum 2400 or higher, so I am using small cylinders at high gas pressure and as much mechanical advantage as I can to get up to those rpm.
Thanks for your thoughts. The current engine design is not my original design, and I have worked on it 3 different times in past years trying to improve on it. if you go back in my videos to "Air~Engine Research, 3 Cyl Orbital Air Engine Update, on Single Shaft Push Pull Valve" you will see it does work. Since I have run this version for the first time, I see a number of problems to be solves. It takes time and thought, but I am confident they will eventually be solved - just give me time.
Air doesn't have the expansion factor that steam has, a larger bore 3"-4" and a longer stroke with a flywheel would be better I see where you mention your concern about the weight of a flywheel but once the flywheel is in motion it carrys the energy for smooth operation. I have thought about converting a v-twin air compressor pump into a rotary valve engine, it would have to be low rpm and efficient to be practical but its very interesting to see how it works, but getting around the fact that compressed air doesn't expand the way steam does makes a double or triple acting engine not feasible. I thought about all the air powered tools in a shop and thought about how that technology could be adapted to household use turning a clothes dryer tumbler, running a vacuum cleaner and spinning a furnace blower and ceiling fans. Most air motors are a vane design, rather than a piston. So they are high rpm and lower torque so a reduction gear would be necessary. I like the idea of air power since it solves the problem of storing energy, that electric faces batteries are so expensive. I built a windmill that turns a two stage air compressor pump and plan on using old 500 gal. propane tanks for large storage volume. The appeal to me is using wind to compress air is truly free energy with zero emissions and can be easily stored. Maybe a high bred vane motor with the exhausted air powering a piston would be the answer to solve the problem, to have all the benefits of torque and speed, interesting stuff to think about.
Thank you for your thoughts and ideas, I do take them seriously. The designs and types of motors you mention all use an enormous amount of Compressed Air, which would be impossible for me to carry in my car. Using very high pressure compressed air in carbon fiber tanks will allow me to have a supply on board for some distances, but if I am to succeed it will only be by using a small amount of air, through positive displacement, and a Unique Mechanical Advantage Designed Engine. I have worked on this over the years - it works - and I am still working to improve it. Check out one of my past videos "Air~Engine Research, 3 Cyl Orbital Air Engine Update, on Single Shaft Push Pull Valve"
Thanks for your questions. No it is not possible for it to compress its own air. High pressure carbon fiber air tank will have to supply air to run it.
Thanks for your input, I have thought that over but don’t want the extra weight unless absolutely necessary. I am hoping to get enough momentum from the weight of the iron rings?
@matton36 I believe the four rings made of steel which are fairly heavy and the driveshaft rotors inside the rings actually give it enough momentum once it’s running correctly that I wouldn’t need one. But there’s still the option if necessary later on. Thanks though, for your comments and suggestion
Thanks for your comment and your thoughts, I have thought about a flywheel, but if I can get away from it, I don’t want the extra weight, but the driveshaft at the rear could be used to mount a flywheel of necessary. I have a ring on it right now that I use for just manually turning Driveshaft while I’m working on it, but I don’t plan on leaving it on. I’m hoping steel rings as they go in their orbital orbit around the driveshaft will act as a flywheel. I guess I’ll see how it goes over the next days as I work on it.
Hi and thanks for your thoughts. You have to remember that was the first time it was ready to try running it, and that is where we see what needs to addressed. I see a number of things that need fixing, and will be covered in my next video.
@@AirEngineResearchnot likely. Perhaps you should further reflect on friction and heat. No lubrication needed...... hilarious. You are a lost cause in need of help
@jamesmoran7511 thanks for checking in and your advice. The only friction would be in cylinder seals, which are leather cups preluded As the engine is operated with compressed air, There’s no heat coming in only cold air, which I’m hoping will keep the seals and the cylinders cool at least. If ever lubrication is needed, it can be added to the air as a mist or drip. I am more worried about balance and being able to get up enough RPMs
Thanks for the comment and checking in, I’ll be working on it, but I’m afraid it’s gonna take a while to get past some of the problems. I’ll keep you posted
Things were looking really good! I'm sorry to see you ran into another stumbling block. I'm confident you'll figure this issue out and be right back on track soon!!
Why is called a prototype? Things are expected to happen, and they have. I will have to remake two or possibly more valve Heads because the cylinders don’t screw in straight - I will have to be more careful next time with tapping the 1” pipe threads. The timing is more difficult to do than I thought also.
That's a good start, even if you feel it's not such a good day. You've shown the principle functions are all working, even though they still need fine tuning. Great to see!
@@AnthonyGriz yes I’ve been through this before, it is a prototype so it’s expected that it may have problems but whatever problems show up. I sure I will work through it. Thanks for checking in and your comment.
Thanks for checking in, before I could comment on double expansion I would have to know how you think it would work? Each Cylinder receives compressed air 1/4 of the rotation, and moves roughly 2 inches so how would double expansion work?
@@AirEngineResearch exhaust has more pressure than atmosphere to extract remaining energy from, it's common known, a 2nd stage w/bigger volume of cylinder.
@@davegeorge7094 I have thought a various ways to use the exhaust, but I don’t want any back pressure, since I’m using small cylinders and short stroke there’s not a whole lot of exhaust that would be practical to try to use, and besides, that would just add weight and extra cylinders and rings and rotors so I think I’ll just stick with it. I can at least get it to run and hopefully do what I want to do in the End. Thanks again for your input.
Thanks for the comment. I have thought about Flywheels and benefits, but weight is detrimental to energy requirements. I am hoping the weight from the steel rings will act as rotational momentum as they go through their orbital movement. If by chance a Flywheel proves to be necessary, the rear end of the drive shaft is an available connection point?
You have to be very safe with compressing air at really high pressure. For example car tires can seriously injury someone if it ruptures when filling and that is fairly low pressure. In the past I read about carbon fiber tanks for air being designed to split open so if a failure happens all the air can escape in a controlled manor.
You are very right, it is very serious when you’re having to compress and use high-pressure air. I will have to eventually buy carbon fiber tanks, but as I’ve said before they’re very expensive and I can’t put out that much money at one time so temporarily I’m using scuba tank around 4500 psi. I appreciate your concern, and your comment thank you very much
I agree compressing air with electricity from the grid. My goal first is to get an engine built that is more efficient than those proposed to date. My second goal will be to build compressors that will use solar and wind to run compressors to store compressed air that can be put into portable tanks for use in cars, at least at first in mine! I believe nothing ventured - nothing can be gained Thanks for your comment.
@@AirEngineResearch Pneumatic engineers and large corporations haven't been sitting on their hands they're always developing and pushing the boundaries efficiency sells, You couldn't store enough air to make it viable the only way you'd get it to work would be to have an onboard compressor, battery. alternator and it would still run out of air needing it to be plugged in to recharge the system.
I watched a video years ago of a company I think in India called tata motors. They was doing the same thing back in 08 or so. The tanks they deigned you should look into as they was light carbon fiber but made so if they was to get hit or damaged they split long was so they did not become a rocket. They made it a long way even a drivable prototype but just stopped. My guess is big energy bought them out or something. I found it very interesting. When I was in middle school me and my dad made a engine that ran on air for a science fair project. It was much like a steam engine. I also some place have a tiny tiny air engine I made in machine shop the cylinder is 3/8 stainless and the piston is about 1/4 in around. It was a fun toy. The entire thing was about 2 in tall. I have always liked compressed air engines.
My dad often said he thought cars could be powered by air. I often though possibly liquid nitrogen, or CO2, (o2 would be toooo dangerous,💥boom!) same for hydrogen. It could use a large tank, vacuum insulated inside a pressure vessel. With a smaller tank with a heater inside. Basically acting as a boiler but only heating the nitrogen to 0°F +/- 20° or so. And hold a fairly large volume of gasous nitrogen. (The bright side, it should have a exelent air conditioner!) Then a grid heater to heat the gas to 100°f or hotter to spin a rotary vane motor, or piston motor. Basically a steam engine. And people could produce the fuel at home, slowly and carry a portable concentrator for work or wherever. Because a few oz(8-16) laced in the 'Boiler'( or one of the 'boilers' because they can work in sequince , so one is producing pressure while the other is refilling like multiple small bottles of high pressure gas, it's also sefer. Only having a few oz converted to gas at possibly 3000 psi, possibly having a relief at 4k-5k,psi, so any explosion would be small relatively speaking. A better situation than 5gallons in a large tank exploding). The small amount should give a range if 10 miles or so, with the 60 - 80+ gallon tank. And a small high pressure concentrator could chill high pressure air into liquid while driving, similar to Regen braking slowly compressing while driving to 200psi as the first stage. Then when braking compress that to a higher pressure. With a chiller inside when braking the first stage handled by a 3 stage compressor using about 1 hp. So it's slow. The motor could be both types a long stroke fairly large bore and a rotor vane pneumatic motor like in a impact wrench. Only a 18" rotor 6" wide, possibly having two, being offset from each other, so a vane is under pressure when the other is mid way through its pressure cycle. Similar to a firing order. Motor times it fires per rotation, the more POWER! Offset rotors is like going from a 6 cyl to a v12, or 3cyl to a 6cyll. A 6" bore 'steam' engine, with a 18" or 24" stroke. Even with two cylinders should make extreme amounts of TQ at upward of 2000rpm. A boxer configuration in the center where the drive shaft usually goes with bevel gears turning the rotation. With the pneumatic rotor engine in front(or rear). 2500-3500psi or greater should produce a few HP, and the TQ, with 6"-8" bore. Maybe higher pressure is possible, maybe 30 k psi , even 10,000 psi the piston and cylinder made from 5/8"- 3/4" steel, and making the cylinders double acting is like 95% more power nearly doubling the displacement, if it were not for the rod, it would. Be doubled . Make the crank from 4340 with nearly 4" journals, crank and rods use bearing from a roughly 18 litre heavy haul truck engines with total seal rings a cross between gas/diesel engines rings with a o-ring behind it. And a oil ring between the sealing rings. The oil rings simupplied oil through the rod to the top and bottom and each side of the oil ring land. the oil ring gap bring 3/4" with two 1/4" rings spaced by a coil spring with oil ports .6 mm to 1mm each with 6mm return ports the rod being a tube 2.5" with 2" cross slide pin with the crank rod being a similar 2.5" tube 1/2" wall with the 2'' pin end, with roughly 4" journal end. Using semi truck Main bearings for rods and mains the oil to the piston rings pumped by a small gear pump on the cross slide with the reservoir filled by the main pump. The low pressure low volume pump to the rings possibly a scavenge pump also the excess oil used to oil the cross slide. The mini pump supplies about 100cc per stroke at 2-5psi, it only needs enough pressure to create a flo of oil in. And out the piston. The seal on the piston rod working similar only inverted. Using hardened chrome rod bored with either a pair of holes or a single single larger hole, with a steel tube brazed in. The cylinder rod seal being a zero gap ring from nylon with a o-ring backing it up. Using double everything with a oil hole between the rings with a groove to supply on all sides and leave the seal housing, like a invited piston the cross slide running on two flat bars with rollers on each bar one face, then linear bearings on two faces of each 1x3 bar bolted to the cylinders. The rollers take the pressure of the rod pushing, similar to the pressure on a piston skirt. With a slide valve opening and closing the cylinders possibly virgin pressure going to try under side then exhaust to the top side. Possibly using a grid heater to gain some pressure of the exhaust gas. Attempting to keep it above freezing. The engine rpm could be slower than the tires of the vehicle. It could produce 5k ft lb TQ, and 150hp at 45rpm(off the wall maths!) however it would require a system like this to use compressed air in a tan, it would require a tank like a semi truck at 200psi. To go to town and back the rotor vane motor could be used for faster acceleration when HP is required, the piston engine when TQ is needed. Us both for fast acceleration this would be for a larger vehicle or truck. A small car could use a 4" bore with 4"-6" stroke, with 2-3,or , 4-cylinder. Sorry to ramble! Have a awesome day, and keep up the good work, and tinkering. I want to build a modern version of a 1890's -1920's oil field or pony engine hit and miss . Or the first diesel engines to use to generate power for my off-grid house a diesel would be good, use waste oil as fuel. Or s gas engine burning distilled rubber and plastic. Use a cat converter on the exhaust to hopefully destroyed the bad stuff produced. Maybe a carbon filter after that. Anyway, 🎉 have a awesome day!✌️👍
Thanks for sharing your dad's and your ideas. There is a lot to digest in your comments, but I'm assuming the majority of these different engines or motors be stationary to supply energy for off grid home use? For a car or truck, I'm thinking a 4" bore with a 6" stroke in a 4 cyl would use 96 cu in of compressed air for 1 revolution! By my calculations, using a 30 Gal tank with 4500 psi, running the engine at 125 psi and a 1.8 engine rev to 1 tire rotation, you would be able to go 4 miles. I don't mean to discourage you, just remember in your design how can you use the least amount of air, you have to carry a lot of air to go a short distance
