Same thing happened to me last night with my wife’s Audi Q5 while replacing the upper control arms. Sure enough, while spinning the axle, I was able to work the CV axle back into place.
my single din pioneer HU, Subwoofer LPF, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125 hz, doesn't have OFF function, do i need put on the lower freq 50 or just pass through 125
YEP ! I bought one that was 10 yrs old w/ 105,000+ miles on it, well maintained, the basic maintenance parts are easy to find and the local shops aren't afraid to work on it ( like European cars). I'm confident that it's got another 10 yrs. and 100K as a daily driver ! - Also a great value for the $$$ and my 3rd Hyundai. SHOP AROUND !
My guy, I'm a heterosexual man but if I saw you right now I would lay a big wet one on you. I was sitting there scratching my head as to why the bolts for my lower control arm were two inches off 😂. After watching your video i instacart-ed a ratchet strap and with some fenagling we were in business! Thanks so much you saved my ass!
I wasn’t sure if this was common. So I started investigating, and found myself here 😁. While changing the lower control arm, I found it easiest to start the body bolts and then lineup the ball joint. I left the brake assembly also attached. I used the rotor to rotate the axle, which made it much easier to turn. Hope this helps someone. Thanks for the video and reassurance that I didn’t just mess something up 🦾
I was replacing the struts on both sides and the lower ball joint on the passenger side of my 2008 Sienna when the passenger side CV axel popped off the inner CV joint housing. I was using the jack to lift the rotor to help line up the new ball joint's bolts with the control arm - in hindsight not the best way to do it. I had an oil catch pan I threw down to catch most of the dripping grease. Actually I was surprised with how little grease there was and although it had the consistency of syrup it did sort of re-gel up when stationary. Once I got the grease mess under control, I tried in vain to try to get the CV axel's 3 bearings back into the housing. I jiggled and worked different angles but couldn't get the bearings any more than part way in. I also looked up this video and tried the ratchet strap idea but everything was probably so far out of alignment that it had little to no hope. So I decided to finish installing the ball joint and struts which would help line up the knuckles on both sides with the CV axels and then try again. Note, I did not install the big bolts between the passenger side knuckle and the that new strut but I did work the strut's bracket onto the knuckle's mounting arm as best I could (I had a punch loosely sitting in the top hole). Once that was all done I then put the minivan into Neutral and with my mechanic wanna-be daughter watching me I rotated the rotor and jiggled everything as best I could. And within a couple of rotations I noticed the bearings suddenly moved inwards, and then within less than a half a turn later there was a satisfying thunk as the bearings seated fully into the back of the housing. That was a BIG YAAAY from me. I didn't want to be one that called the tow truck after reading the many excellent comments here. Then I fully installed the passenger side strut, cleaned up the housing and boot with a little spray nine and blue shop towels and tried to fit the boot back over the rim of the housing - to no avail - the angle of the outer CV axel was too great and was pulling on the top part of the boot. So NOW I jacked up the rotor 3 or 4 inches to lessen the axel's angle and tried again - this time with only a little persuasion it popped into place. I took the boot off again and picked up a 90g tube of premium molybdemum grease (supposedly one tube is good for a joint), a new CV joint clamp and CV clamp pliers (I had the guy that sold me the pliers demo how to use them - helped a lot). I used some advice my mechanic brother-in-law gave me and put a little moly grease on my finger at a time and worked the grease over as much of the three bearings that I could touch. His concern was time would be needed for proper grease circulation to get established with the bearings so this in theory wouldn't start them off dry. Then with the remaining grease I squeezed it into the inside of the boot (as far in as I could get it - awkward from being on my back on the garage floor with not a ton of room) and quickly worked the boot onto the housing until it popped into place. I then had my daughter hold the new hose clamp in position while I got the CV pliers in place over the square crush locking tab. The thing I kept in mind was to push hard with the pliers against the square tab while slowly squeezing the handles shut. Worked like a charm! I've now driven the minivan over 10 miles and it feels and sounds good. Now for the front end alignment. THANK YOU LUKE FOR THIS VIDEO! It gave me pause and hope to overcome the sudden shock of dealing with a popped out CV axle. The other commenters here also provided golden words of advice. MUCH APPRECIATED!
Hi! I have the DMH A4450, it looks just like yours and it having the exact same problem, i sent it to a technician and they sent it out to pioneer, but they werent able to fix it. I have a hobby centered around electronics and since pioneer could not fix it themselves, could you please describe what causes the problem and could we possibly get in contact thru email? Thankss. Also the issue is not consitent and sometimes it works perfectly fine but other the same issue occurs.
I wish I could help you out but I don’t know much about the underlying issue. I remember reading something about failing solder points, but I could be wrong.
2020 Elantra SEL here ….only 10,000 miles but it drives better than my 2018 Camry with 20,000 miles. EVERYTHING has a really nice feel to it and it’s plenty “peppy” enough for me with the 2.0 liter “Atkinson cycle” engine and the CVT transmission which so far has been the best transmission I’ve ever owned (age 89) ….paid $16,500 for it NEW (plus sales tax & registration etc. …$18,300 “out the door” NICE CAR.
🙏🙏🙏Thank you, Luke. Without seeing your video, I would have had a whole lot more problems than one might imagine. I have two washrooms with the exact same situation as in your video. Initially, I really didn't have a clue how to fix it. The water leaking was so severe that it caused my basement to flood, almost damaging my AC unit. Of course, my house's main pipe has a crack somewhere, so the leaked water ran alongside the outer layer of the main pipe from the 3rd floor to the 2nd floor and down to the basement. Years before, it was just a few occasional drops, but with two toilets leaking 24/7, it was a totally different story. I even prepared a plan to evacuate all the stuff from the basement to avoid the leaks. I put whole piles of old newspapers to soak up the excessive water; in just two hours, 10 inches (22 cm) of thick newspapers got wet! Then, I started looking on RU-vid for help and was extremely lucky to encounter your video. Now, one washroom is completely fixed; the second one is waiting to be de-calcified (as I mixed warm water with vinegar to dissolve the mineral deposits that have accumulated over the years inside the tank). Great credit goes to your video for relieving all my concerns. Truly, thank you for your practical site. Many thanks and warm regards. Great work lasts forever! 🙏🙏🙏
How old is the faucet itself? After a while the woven material around the retractable tubing can fray or become worn, and eventually it doesn’t slide easily anymore. If it’s a newer faucet, check to make sure that the weight isn’t getting hung up on something under the sink, like other plumbing supply lines or cleaning supplies.
Thank you so much. As a pensioner, I had the arm tied up with ribbon for two days and dreaded the cost of calling a plumber . I looked at many videos before I came across yours. I was nervous to try it at first and only did a quarter turn which wasn’t quite enough but I could see it had made some difference so I tried a bit more and bingo it worked. I could have cried with relief. Thank you so much.
Thanks for posting this. I’m having the same issue and I called pioneer like u said and they told me to ship it to the same address u provided . Did they send u a new radio or just fix yours
Like others have, I thank you. Both CV axles slipped out when I was replacing my struts on my Subaru. Little ratchet strap action with the jack lifting the control arm I got it done. Thank you man!
I just ordered this head unit from Crutchfield today, I hope I don't regret it. I have always installed Alpine units in my cars and wanted to give Pioneer a chance, hopefully the issue has been resolved at the factory. Thanks for making the video, much appreciated.
👍👍👍 Easy peasy, I guess after 5 years or more in this state and my wife complaining about my car, thank goodness I found this video, it worked as advertised. Great, thank you.
PERFECT fix!!! Thank you so much! My faucet is pretty new, and I must have over-extended the hose. Did NOT want to pay someone a minimum of $40 to make a house call, and now I'm ESPECIALLY glad I looked at possible fixes before having to resort to that. Three seconds...and my faucet is working perfectly again! Thank you again!!!
I sent mine out for the repair for free all I had to do was pay the shipping but when it arrived over the the shipping handler broke my screen and pioneer is charging me $260 for the screen and I issued a claim with the shipping handler and they only sent me $100 for the damages and now they expect me to pay out of my pocket for the rest of the $260 when pioneer is the one selling these bogus radios that break after a month I’m so annoyed now I’m out a radio and left with $100 like what radio that’s not cheap am I gonna get , don’t send it out cause u will end up with no radio if it gets broken thru shipping , and end up paying for someone else damages hell no
