Been doing forum build threads for the past couple decades but now moving over to RU-vid. Picking up on my two project cars/daily drivers (they swap duty based on who's in the garage) where we left off on the forums. You can check out the original build threads here: 1990 E30- www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/general-forums/members-rides/328411-bringing-my-dad-s-car-back-to-its-former-glory-and-beyond 2011 Z4- e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1755920
Just wanted to say I read your entire build thread on zpost and it's both inspiring and invaluable. Thanks for sharing your build and experiences! Subscribed here now too 😊
Thanks man, I really enjoy build threads, doing stuff on here is way more time consuming. Thanks for subscribing! Hope to add some more interesting Z4 stuff soon!
Good demo, I used other spray on rinse off type products before and were unimpressed but this one seems to actually work. I know carpro hydro o2 lite works and Gyeon Wet coast but those are so expensive for just 16 ounces of product.
Did you try any of the other methods? Thats super annoying that it's still causing an issue. Even after I solved this issue another has propped up, which I haven't covered yet.
I did this job myself over the weekend, I pulled the steering rack down and did everything from the rear without removing the sway bar, also I upgraded the hoses with the N54B30a kit from VVT, which includes aluminum fittings for all hoses on the front of the engine
Nice stuff! As a note of caution, silicone is a bit too porous for coolant, so you'll likely need to be topping things off more frequently. I was considering going in this direction too, until I learned about this.
Thanks Alex, I appreciate it! I've got a few more in my old build thread on R3vlimited- www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/general-forums/members-rides/328411-bringing-my-dad-s-car-back-to-its-former-glory-and-beyond/page17 Starts on page 17 and continues into page 18
Great video, really helped me out. Just a note, it is a lot easier to secure the water pump bolts to the engine before sliding the thermostat into place, otherwise it is super tight for the top bolt, specially if you have gorilla sized hands !
This is an AMAZING video. Thank you for clear instructions, great camera work, no music, item highlights and attention to detail! I was dreading this job, now I dread it less. Surprisingly (and thankfully my N52K engine doesn’t have an inter cooler since it’s naturally aspirated). Less parts is better !
Hi, when you removed the fan shroud, how did you remove the oil cooler at the bottom of the shroud? I’m doing this job too, but the oil cooler is stopping me getting the shroud out.
Huh, this wasn't something I ran into during my fan shroud removal. The stock oil cooler lives in the passenger side fender well, so maybe you have an aftermarket oil cooler?
@@Dope.And.Pretty hey, thanks for the quick reply. Maybe it’s not an oil cooler, but down at the bottom of the fan shroud something like a rectangular metal can with 3 or 4 hoses to it is in place. It’s a 23i version , completely stock. I just can’t figure out how to separate it from the fan shroud.
@@mikesalkeld4465 Confirmed, I did not have that piece on my car. Did a bit of research though and found a clip detailing how to remove it. You just need to jack the car up, remove your underbody shielding (this is shown in my video) and unbolt 1 10mm bolt: ru-vid.comUgkxWYsivb-YFkUSxVLc4Rpfh_x3p7d8uoBM?si=kQAhiL2DTC2jRUvK Hope that helps!
@@Dope.And.Pretty yep! A huge help! I’d more or less figured it out by looking at pics of fan shrouds and seeing the shape of the can. One bolt and a kind of lip that slots into the shroud. Great video dude!
I opted to not remove the intercooler. Remove the c-clip hoses first before unbolting anything, let it all drain, unbolt the thermostat and use a flexible hex screwdriver to get to all the worm drives. Honestly if BMW didn't have them all facing the wrong way this would be a lot easier. During install getting the water pump onto the hose that goes to the block was a huge pain but other than that it was a breeze going back together.
@@noelaquino9139 Glad you made it through! The older I get the more I value the easy route, over the fast route. Flexible hex screwdrivers sound like a major win though!
I have the standard wheel on my E89 and have been contemplating doing this swap to the M Sport wheel but as you say there isn't really much in it and looking here second hand M Sport wheels are crazy money. I am thinking to get my wheel recovered in the nicer leather and bulk it out to the thickness in between the standard and the M Sport (M Sport Wheels I think are bit too thick). The silver trims around the buttons I was thinking to keep them silver but skin the black trim around the buttons in carbon fiber (will contrast well between thet two). Do you know if you can separate the buttons from the black trim?
I'm not aware that you can remove the buttons from their trim. IMO any change to the steering wheel really doesn't feel needed. There are SO MANY other things I would spend money on before touching the steering wheel. I only ended up doing this because I stumbled upon one for such a great deal I really couldn't say no.
Mods are listed at the beginning of the video. Hasn't been dynoed yet but the tuner has suggested about 475whp on it's current 91 octane tune. Planning to get it dynoed and an E30 blend tune here in the near future.
I've shadow lined since like 2012 since my cars theme currently is black and red, since my new wheels and the new plans for the car this year I'm actually gonna go back to Chrome trim with the new set up this year. You definitely need some side skirts even if they are IS side skirts and go ahead and grab a IS lip for the front to match also. Another thing you could do is a heckblende between tails if you were to do all red tails again or redo them. Smoked hella headlights are a good upgrade for looks and functionality
Not a fan of the heckblende or IS front lip. I'm pretty tempted to try an Mtech2 front valence with the stock front bumper thought. Thanks for the suggestions!
@@Dope.And.Prettyso, i got a reply from Motiv yesterday that stated “Hello, Many customers have gotten the PR coils to not interfere with the digital lines by routing the E sensor wires out and around the engine bay under the shroud where the wiper/motor area is. Or under the car and up right at the pas side strut to keep the interference away as much as possible.” I’m guessing they’re talking about the power and ground wires as there’s no way to “reroute” the ethanol sensor wires since it’s a full harness.
I’m in the process of constantly adding to my Z4 project and I’m glad I found this. I’m not even sure I want to go E85 now lol. I also need a ethanol line that fits the Z4 from the HPFP to the short connector. What line kit do you recommend?
Hey, thanks for watching! Hilariously enough, I'm making a video on this exact topic right now. I'll have somethign up soon. Going over ALLLL of this...
@@erez161 Yeah, especially these videos I'm making right now... pretty niche content. My goal's not really to blow up though, just looking to help out the community and document what I'm doing. Been doing this on forums with pictures and writeups for years but that format is pretty much dead now.
@@Dope.And.Pretty Well I definitely appreciate it man! It’s gonna help me a tonn. I’ve been doing the same, just making videos to document my progress.
I have a very weird setup, which really won't apply to anyone else. I bought the headers second hand and the outlets had been modified. As well, I run an Arc Asylum front subframe which sits different from stock.
Didn't like the whole remote control idea so I used a few relays, a couple momentary switches, and 3d printed a little enclosure which I mounted in the bin in the center console
That is actually a real good sound you have there in this exhaust combination.... sharp and great sounding. What dimension are you using on your rims and tires... back and front ... great looking setup :)
@@robi6713 Every part of the setup is in video description: stock S52 headers, stock S52 mid-pipes with cats, 2.5" Varex muffler on the rear. I now realize I quoted you wrong above, I said it was a 3" exit but it's actually 2.5" in this older iteration. It's 3" now.
The car happens to be registered in a no-smog county in CA, so no need to smog ever again after initial registration! But let's just keep that our little secret...
man thats music to my ears, nice job on the build. I have a e89 with full bolt ons and mod stage 2 the only thing missing is the exhaust. can you share links to the parts your got to build that exhaust ? how much did it cost to get it installed ?
It's a bunch of different pieces I put together to make work. Muffler are actually from a vehicle specific Mustang setup that I bought second hand. Rear half is the Varex piping, front half is a bunch of stainless bends that I cut and welded together. Did the whole thing myself so labor was just my own mental and physical anguish laying under a car and making it all fit.
Thanks! Unfortunately the mufflers were bought second hand and are actually for a Mustang specific setup made by Varex. Would be pretty hard to reproduce the setup exactly like this!
Thanks! Sorry, my reply is coming pretty late, so I don't remember 100% anymore. Pretty sure it's just H&R springs on stock shocks, 235/45/18 tires in front, and 265/40/18 tires in the rear.
