This worked great! I loved having the video. The instructions weren't that hard, but the visual of where to look for the OBD and everything helped out a lot.
This video is titled as abelt replacement on the X series JD mowers yet the video shows the mower being worked on is a D130 which makes it nor particularly helpful.
I removed the vro tank only by clipping the one wire to it and removing. I did none of the other disconnecting you showed. Is it all necessary if I just run 50 to 1 remixed fuel? Which wire activates the low oil alarm? I can't get it to stop wailing. Seems to originate at the console. Any suggestions?
I just had the exact same issue. Watch 0:38 where he talks about tracing the wires from the fuel pump to the main wiring harness. There’s a connecter there that you need to disconnect to deactivate the alarm. I did everything but that and the alarm wouldn’t stop…after disconnecting that connector, the alarm stopped. Plus it DOESN’T deactivate the OVERTEMP alarm which is key. Mine is running great now!
On the 2014 model -- (I don't know about the models after that) -- the little metal key will open the door but it will NOT start the car. There is no ignition except the fob. A really terrible design that I don't like. It puts your life at the mercy of a watch battery. If that battery goes out ... at night ... in some remote location in the wilderness ... in winter ... I can get in the driver's door (only), but I cannot start the car! Give us metal keys with door locks and ignitions again, PLEASE, car manufacturers!
Anyone run into issues with the steering knuckle not lining up on the top bolt? Seems like the cv is a tad too long. It’s seems like a it’s seeded properly. Please help!!
Hello... Other day i had check engine light came on..checked and showed code p06dd .. but I had another thing happened which I noticed is that normally on highway going 100 km /hr my rpm were around 1600 and after the engine light and code they are sitting around 2200 ...can that oil pressure make the rpm affected by it.. ?? Any suggestions will be appreciated
Thanks! I was nearly certain that was the procedure, but when it suddenly put up a lot of resistance to the last bit of rotation, long time UV exposed plastic, and me being involved, I was afraid i was about to snap the arm!
Please note that, if you have a key fob that is "quirky" or doesn't seem to be working right, you may not have to "program" a new one. It is very possible that the "electronics" are ok and the problem is deterioration of the "physical" components (the most frequent problem is that the little disks under the rubber "buttons" [used to activate each feature] become detached and float around inside the key fob). If you have trouble "activating" a new key fob, try just swapping the circuit board from the old key fob into the new key fob case [remove the existing, old, "cut" "emergency" key by sliding the release button and pulling the key out, then use a thin knife or shim to force the front of the old key fob case to separate it from the back]. Remove the new "uncut" emergency key from the new key fob and open the case as above. Swap the old "already programmed" circuit board into the new case. Snap the front and back pieces of the new case together and insert the old "cut" emergency key to the new case. If the "old" electronics are ok, the new case/old electronics should work just fine.
I only have one key. Just like in the video, it will start my Jeep and lock it but not unlock it. So am I to assume that this system will not work for me to program a new key?
