Why not put this lap joint on your primed siding if its better? Seems like a no brainer. Guys using primed dont want to mess around with pan flashings or caulking either.
I was actually planning on installing vinyl siding on my next sheathing-free siding project, can you demo that with a pendulum sledge hammer against the LP product?
With the 4x8 fake T1-11 lasts about 15 years max in Indiana then the bottom rots out also horizontal joints of two stacked sheets are difficult and require z flashing but then the lower part of the upper sheet will still rot in 10-15 years in Indiana ( quite a bit of rain and snow year round)
LP states to install window directly to 2X4 framing, not to the LP Smart Siding. Why are you showing it otherwise? From LP Website: Always install your windows and flashing to the studs before you hang your LP SmartSide panel siding. Carefully cut the window opening in the panel with a 3/16-inch gap along the sides and the bottom of the window, and a 3/8-inch gap along the top.
I'm curious about this too, seems like all the videos I've seen, are doing it this way, but I see what you see in the instructions. Seems like it's a difficult situation. You install the windows in the outside and you've water getting in at the top. You install the windows in the studs and you've got no obvious path for water to escape that flows down the siding and meets the window, and just caulking keeping the water out.
@@jeffunk7 Ultimately figured out you can do either / or after speaking with several others. Just make sure it is flashed / caulked and trimmed properly and it shouldn't leak.
I love this siding. I am installing it on my house myself instead of hiring somebody to do it because I have to save my money and I know it will be done right the first time when I do it. Secondly, my only concern is buying this siding from either Lowe's Home Improvement Center or The Home Depot because they use a tie down strap on this siding and it leaves indentations. These two big box retailers do not know the meaning of preventing damage to merchandise. This is my only dilemma and delay in making my big purchase. Believe me, I am so ready to get this siding on my house right now.
This sounds like a pharmaceutical commercial with all the stuff that can kill ya... I don't have to worry about any of this with decent lumber. I got a headache listening to this guy who has never touched a hammer
Me encanta la resistencia de la madera de ingeniería, es resistente a la deformación, mayor resistencia que el fibrocemento, el vinilo cruge al impacto
@21:19 Definitely not flashed properly… It’s not really doing the job of flashing… water can still get behind it and it’s going to leak. Rookie mistake 😅
On a small addition section of my house I will replacing six damaged T1-11 panels in the next 2 or 3 days. When installing LP (Series 38) vertical 4 x 8 siding, do you have to caulk each 4 foot seam at the tongue and groove, and also put a trim piece over the seam? OR maybe just one or the other? Can you explain what size trim and anything else that I might need to know with this step? I know from the video about caulking where 2 cut pieces butt together, but does that apply to the ends of each panel on the tongue and groove as well? Thanks for a great video!
In the video on the lp website for the shakes they say to face nail the panels at the bottom and to nail the ship lap with a nail on the lap and another nail one inch from the edge at the top of the panel. In the written instructions they do not mention the face nail at the bottom edge of the panel. What's up with that?
Some of the pre-fabricated miter joint corners are opening up to 2/8" at corners after awhile, rain, snow, and ice find their ways in. This is happening at my house.
Just imagine having a bunch of questions on here and @lpsmartsiding doesn't answer any if those questions... I recently did a job with this stuff and i can say it was a pain in the ass, but looked good..
@@LumberjackVictim I can't remember the name but you clamp them to keep the spacing right. You adjust them to whatever you need. I would look into it. They are a little pricey I'm in VA. Smart siding clamps. They are def worth it if you want to keep in consistent...
the install manual shows using mechanical flashing, so metal flashing etc. between the bottom of the siding and top of the concrete, with at least a 3/8" gap
Run furring strips with tapcons or a ram set. Then, nail a 1 inch thick sheet of treated plywood on the furring strips. Wrap in house wrap and good to go.
from the LP site: "When you are selecting paint to use on LP SmartSide engineered wood products, we highly recommend acrylic latex coatings designed specifically for wood composites. Refer to the paint manufacturer's application instructions."
I was able to find ONE video. I have the same issue. The guy used a utility knife and basically scored into the stucco. He slid the kickout flashing behind the layers and into place. He then re-stucco'd and sealed over the top of it
