I have one of these original Supersonic Bally Pinball Machines down in my finished basement. Found it at a place selling and repairing Pin Ball machines during the mid 1980’s in New Jersey. I paid $200 for it in great shape. It is still down in my finished basement. I haven’t played it in awhile but the last time I did everything was working fine. The reason I purchased this one was earlier on in the late 70’s there was one in a tavern a friend of mine own and I always liked it. So when I spotted the one I have I had to buy it. This one in the video with the man hours involved must of cost a mint to do.
Sorry, I have not watched the entire video yet, but since these have a + and - , I assume that they can't be used for the GI bulbs since they are AC. Am I wrong about that?
They are not well suited for GI because they don't provide enough dispersed light above the playfield. Also, because the GI is AC they will burn at half brightness.
@@dyopp21 We are using NeoPixel style programable LED on our playfields and we take some 1/2" clear plastic rods cut to about 1" lengths, round off one end on a small lathe to approximate a lightbulb. With the flat end of the rod sitting flush with the NeoPixel, it does a great job of distributing the light above the playfield. But, for that to work for the Yoppsicles, you would need to make a variant with either a full wave bridge rectifier, or two leds mounted in opposite directions.
Wow, that was exceptional. I learned a whole lot, and believe it or not, I was riveted. Really enjoyed the video. I've just been inking the insert surrounds freehand, but if I start doing more game restorations, I need to adopt your silkscreening method, for sure!
My grandparents had one of these machines and it brings back literally every good memory of my childhood to see this video. My aunt still has it, but there's family drama I won't get into preventing me from ever getting to play it again, even though it was promised to me.
Yes. Because of the nature of an LED being a diode, it won't work in reverse polarity. The good news is if you ever put one in backwards it shouldn't hurt anything, it simply won't work.
HA! Just picked up a players Six Million Dollar Man I'm doing a full restore on and will go LED. Just discovered your channel from forum mentions on Pinside. So where did you get the light strips from, where are your sourcing them? I did pick up an Alltek lamp driver board so I don't really need the load resistors but if they are already there and I don't need to build PCB's that's awesome!
You can find the strips in many varieties on amazon. Or... I if you don't want to use popsicle sticks, you can order some of the ones I created on actual PCB's here: pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1360-yoppsicle
@@dyopp21About to begin my first playfield swap on my Bally Playboy with a CPR as well. I’ve been stressing over the star rollover until I watched your vid. I’ve seen this discussed in a few different forums, but DAMN, this video totally put me at ease with it…WHEW!! One question tho - when you polished it back up, what tool did you use, and did you use any liquid or paste polish? Again, many thanks!
@@Kolohetom Just saw this. I polish with a small dremel cloth polishing wheel and my go to for all polishing jobs is the German company "Menzerna" polishing solid bar P126 (Finishing). Stuff is amazing.
I love the idea of the Yoppsicle, and they look very well designed. My problem is that I'm going for a very retro feel for my pins, in keeping with their late 70s vintage. I noticed that when the lights on your playfield flash, it's obvious that they are LEDs, since they come on and off instantly, instead of the slight build up of light from incandescent bulbs. Is there anything that might be done in order to replicate that (incandescent bulb) look when flashing? I'm guessing it would be pretty expensive and you'd need to use dimmable LEDs. Thanks a million.
Love it. And thanks much for developing Yoppsicles! My recent Playboy restoration includes these entirely and the result spectacular. Where's the full reveal video for Supersonic? Brought one of these back from the dead this week 🙂
Hey, in Orlando for American Legion Fall Conference, and there's a Pinball Tournament going on at the Hotel. Talked with some guys from a place called The Pinball Lounge, from Oviedo, FL. know of you and claim you're a Household name in the Pinball world. Glad I know a famous person.😁 Good luck in all yoh do, Dave!
I went to Frayser Baptist schools. Does anyone remember Coach Wendell Johnson? I'd like to see if anyone else does.. When it closed we all ended up at Skyview.
@@dyopp21 thank you for responding. I was making sure I wasn't having false memories! Yes, he sure was a unique, character. What ever happened to him? Has anyone ever came forward?
@@dyopp21 I'd like email you... I'm still in contact with 3 friends from then and not to be negative or anything, but we're grown now and strong in our faith.. forgiveness is for ourselves.. not who harmed us. Bless you for being an amazing man and a man of God.
Stunning game the colors are beautiful and rich & it's set up perfect for crisp snappy play. There's just something magical about this era of games when restored to this level. Love it ! Well done & thanks for posting.
my tank got shocked by my heater. I am wondering if it messes with the live rock or bacteria. none of the fish made it. had no cleaning crew at the time so I don't know if snails would have made it
@David Yopp just found these today, great idea. A quick note on the Purple led's not being very bright but having the same specs as the others. If you check the wavelength of the purple ones (nm, nanometers) you will find that once you get to around 400 or less you are starting to enter the Ultra Violet range and this is obviously out of the visible range to humans, they are in fact putting out the same amount of power and this will be noticeable if you have any UV reactive colors painted anywhere near them. Same applies to Infrared (IR), anything over 700 nm starts to appear less intense for the same power. One way to make a brighter purple is to use an RGB led and mix the colors to taste but obviously this is more costly and you need extra components on your board. Keep up the great work and I will definitely be purchasing quite a few of these for my Firepower resto 👍
Thank you for this excellent video and walk down memory lane! I wish things at home would have been different, but it was beyond my control and you do what you have to do to get through. I was Linda Standard (Duncan) in the graduating class of 1981. FBS was a quite literal life-line for me. I was not popular nor well known, but I do so very much appreciate the casual friends I did have as well as some very perceptive and supportive teachers! I have always credited FBS and a few specific teachers with my life and career success ( not the least were Virginia Wagner-because you “saw” me-, Mary Walton, Ginger Freilich, Aaron Lewis, Pat Morris {“THINK!”}, whom ever taught me all that advanced math). I was not a cheerleader or an Eaglette. I did edit our 80-81 yearbook but cannot take much credit for it as so many students did most of the heavy lifting. And I played on our HS softball team. I was in the music dept until 1980- anyone remember singing on the Buddy Bane Morning Show in Tupelo MS? Well, anyway, thank you for this videos. If you remember me, I’d love to hear from you... I’m Linda O’Toole now, living in FL. Hi Ya’ll. Class of 1981
I really wish Stern would remake some of their old classics like Flight 2000 and Quicksilver, just with updated sound and release them. I'm sure they would sell.
I enjoyed this video. I graduated from FBS. I was there when Kim and Patience attended. They were two of the sweetest girls. I also remember how shocked we were to hear of Coach Williams death. I had a huge crush on him. I’m grateful for having been fortunate enough to attend this school. Thanks for the video it really brought back some memories. Oh and by the way I was a Eaglette the first year we were formed and one more year after that. I started working after school so I didn’t try out the other years. Thank you so much.
The Nickel Bowl in Myrtle Creek Oregon had this machine in 1971, when our family took over the lanes. I have wondered for many years if any still existed. Low and behold, one in great shape (now) does exist. It brought back a lot of memories. Question; were there any variations of this machine, if you know? I have some fuzzy memories of subtle differences. Thank you. Oh, by the way, this machine was supplied by Coin-a-matic out of Roseburg Oregon, whose owner's name was Maxine, and the man who serviced it was Steven Standley, I believe. Once again, thank you.
The front end of the frame of a pinball machine is the "lockdown bar" that holds the glass in place. There's generally a lever inside the coin door that releases it. It's the first step in opening up the machine to work on it.
You can by the posts are Marco Pinball and I polish all my parts with a media tumbler (Amazon) Just pop them in and a couple days later they come out looking like that. Thanks.
To add: if it doesn't go in the tumbler I use a drill with a buffing wheel and Manzerna P-126 polishing compound. The flip flags plate and screw heads were polished with Manzerna.
Wow!!! GREAT IDEA! No new lamp driver board needed!! Clean and easy to install! I think you should sell them buy the sheet as an option...pretestbthe sheet first at your place! Maybe make each sheet one color...
@@tntamusements not currently. And right after I finished getting the warm and cool panels situated we bought a bar and I’m in the process of making it into a pinball bar so everything else kind of went to the back burner for now. I’ll get back around to it.
I saw you used a vinyl cutter for your inserts (read a previous comment). Did you use the vinyl cutout as a stencil to paint the joker on or did you just using the vinyl sticker as the face? Did you protect it with anything? Krylon? Thank you for your help before I start my restoration job on mine.
I just put the vinyl straight down on the PF then I cleared it with several coats of water based Verathane (not in the rattle can, I use an electric spray gun and buy the stuff by the gallon. Goes down much faster and smoother that way). Then sand it to a sheen, done.
