Hey I grinded my brake hose on my tire and I bought a new brake hose to replace it without the steel brake line I take it I’ll have to replace both I tried taking the 11mm off the housing but it seemed stuck
So what was the estimate they told you to fix it? It seems like alot of work and i for that icon message and i don't feel the AC anymore working.... but my air suspension is working normal tho.
Hi, Great video, thanks for sharing. I hope you don’t mind me asking for advice. I have a Tesla Model S 2017 Electric Motor 100D AWD. The suspension system is flat. There is an error showing up, as follows: Air suspension compressor disabled - your vehicle will not rise. There is a 40A fuse that controls the air compressor (it's in a slightly different position than the one in your video). This has blown and when I replace it with a new 40A fuse, it blows immediately. Am I right in concluding that the air compressor itself is faulty? If this is the case, and I purchase a second-hand one, how compatible are these compressors or will I have to purchase from a 2017 model? Thanks in advance, and I look forward to hearing back from you With kind regards, Seamus
@@Mitrofanovalex Hi, Sorry about the delay in replying to you. There is a 40A fuse on the fuse-box and if it's blown, replace it. If it blows again, there is a 95% chance it's your Air Compressor Unit for your suspensions. In my case, I purchased a second-hand one and changed it in about 1 hour. If you are doing it yourself, remove the compression unit and only buy the same part number as there are a few different types. I hope this helps, Seamus
@@seamusrispin1967 Thanks for your reply. Yes, in my case the problem was in the compressor, but I was able to fix it myself. The magnet in the engine came off, I glued it on and everything works fine. Removing and installing the compressor is not at all difficult. The main problem is moisture; you need to change the granules in the dehumidifier often.
YEEEEEESSSSS!!! THANK YOU MAN!! I was going crazy trying the "rolling" procedure in my 350z but with that little orange tool it was just straight forward dumb proof easy! THANK YOU!
Hello. Maybe you can help. I have a Tesla S P85 from 2013. A few days ago, when I get to the car the front suspension is all down. The car hits on every bump, so it's stop till that day. I already change the compressor, because I few days earlier, I ear the compressor working non stop for a almost a hour. I thougt it's bronken. How ever, after change it, no sound I get from the compressor. I receive the solenoid yesterday to change, but I do not now if it's gone work. Now after two weeks, I have all the suspensions down. Do you have any clue? Change the tubes to the suspension? When it hapens, only the from suspension is down. The yellow light first apears, then a red one comes.
If you have that much water in the system it would be a good idea to look @ the gel crystals in the pump ( dry them out ) as it will “ wash”the grease from the pump bigend bearing ( very noisy before it gives up) 😖. The bearing can be replaced but it’s not easy
What type of scanner do you have Paul Dark? I'd like to get a scanner that would be able to find those faults. Also, would any 'bluetooth scanner' like Blue Driver Pro or OBDLink MX+ perform those functions? Thanks.
Well, you can go to Tesla and give them that relay number, it's like $6. For a air line fix it's a 1/4" brass coupling for air lines, you can buy at places like fleet pride, it's like $4
Hello, my P85D gets the red light “active air suspension automatic self leveling disable” mostly when it becomes freezing outside. I don’t know how to fix it, I think it’s ice somewhere in the system but is there anyway solution to this?
You will need to warm it up to the point that water in suspension control block thaws. You can take the block off too and make sure to blow all the water out of it, preferably with 100% alcohol flush after (alcohol absorbs water and dries up quick) There is a practice of using alcohol in air lines on big trucks. You may drop some alcohol down the line to the distribution block so it goes through it, once it's unfrozen. Don't add too much, it will collect at the air tank, absorb water and slush around there - you don't want that. Just enough to clear all that water out of there and "dry the lines"
@@alexskybun2956 yes. So what I did was test my fuel pump. Fuel pump was good. Apparently the fuel relay is built into the tipm and cannot be replaced like a fuse like non Chrysler vehicles. I found vertical visions bypass for about 60$. Takes about 30 seconds to install. There’s RU-vid videos on it. I installed last winter and even the single digit morning’s it would start up first try. A strong start too. No puttering and no rpm’s dropping. Make sure and get the bypass that has no wiring because that one is not a permanent solution.
I'm in a similar situation, I have a 2012 Telsa Model S P85 lowrider. I swapped the relays, and I'm about to see if I'm getting electricity to the pump. Before you replaced the top fitting, do you have any idea of a "normal" pressure in the top reservoir?
Don't remember. Don't have that fitting there anymore, so can't check the pressure. Can anyone that still has the Schrader fitting check on the pressure? I think I read somewhere that it was at 75psi, but I could be wrong
That's what I would do to refill it with nitrogen. - Lower the suspension down all the way - Enable "jack mode" (suspension leveling disabled) - Put a vacuum pump on the system to get slight vacuum in there (connect to Schrader valve I showed you removed) - Turn off pump. - Then, while under vacuum, connect your nitrogen tank to vacuum pump (purge the hose prior) and fillthe tank up to pressure you need. Similar to refilling a/c system.
On my son's 2007 Murano this process worked fine, EXCEPT for the fact that when I waited the minute as you suggested the TPMS light stopped flashing. In my case it worked perfectly when I immediately programmed each sensor after getting the TPMS light flashing. Each sensor only took about 1-2 seconds to program. The hazard lights flashed briefly upon successful programming for each one. I also didn't need to remove any of the plastic trim as the small white wire harness device was accessible just looking underneath. (I laid on my back and put the parking brake on to give me clear access.)
Hep Paul. This is a great video. My Truck is making the same sound. Will there be a misfire code If there is air in fuel lines? Or does a Misfire code and this sound simply mean there is a bad injector?
