Hi there, great video! This is a great product. I'm thinking of using this to code a Thypoch lens for Nikon Z mount. Do you know if it is possible to use this for that mount?
Hi, thank you. The codes can only be read by Leica bodies. As long as the Leica body has the code presented to it then it will apply the optical corrections. Coding a lens that will be used on a Nikon body will not work as Nikon do not (from my knowledge) use Leica's optical codes.
These work WELL. Use the recommended pen which is oil based which is more durable and dries just as fast. If you need to code over a screw hole, fill it white laquer first. If a repair is ever required, thinner will take if out.
I didn't have full success with my lens, the 50mm Summicron v4. I coded it and it's showing up as a 90/2. My best guess is because there is a screw where part of the 6-bit code is read and maybe that's confusing the reader. Not really sure what to do now.
Pour plus de netteté marquez la bordure à la pointe sèche "pointe de compas" autour de chaque fenêtre utilisée, ceci pour limiter le débordement du marquage.
Absolutely easy peasy! I used Sharpie fine point pens that I had on hand. Used black first but seemed to be not opaque enough. Then used a brown with a second application of the black and it works. Even if I need to reapply at a later time, this is simple and fast. Thanks!
Hello already tried with Pigma micron, Pilot 5 Hi tech point and uni posca // I try to code Sumi 35 1,4 ASPH & Sumi 50 1,4 ASPH so 4 markings * 2 lenses = 8 failures so far I am on M240 camera, do anyone succeeded on M240 ?
Your camera may be particularly sensitive. You could try extending the black marks slightly after using the coder. You could also try adding the white marks (in most cases this isn't necessary) using model paint. Hopefully just extending the black marks a little further will be enough. I'm not familiar with the M8 and its menu system but it's possible you may need to select auto lens detection (or similar) to ON.
Worked first time. Took 5 minutes to do my Canon 50mm 1.2, Canon 85mm 1.8, Avenon 21mm 2.8 and MS Optics 73mm 1.5. A must have if you use non-Leica lenses
I used a Craft smart medium point black ink paint pen from Michaels that worked on my Voightlander 35mm f2 ultron lens on the M10-R. I used a lead pencil to mark the location of the 6 bit code for Summicron-M 35mm f2 ASPH, as the medium tip was too big for the small holes. Care must be taken using the medium sized tip but it is possible. A fine or ultra fine tip, not available at my store, would be easier to use.
UPDATE: After extra information and insights provided by Henners I decided to refine the initial comment to be more neutral. Perhaps I made too impulsive conclusions and statements, which need to be explained a bit to avoid further confusions. Coincidentally, during last few months I was also highly focusing and dedicating lots of effort on researching current situation of 6bit coding tools and making affordable (basically almost free DIY 3D printable) higher quality version of Leica M coder which already exists on Printables (published on Jul 05 2019). And I also decided to not commercialize resulting 3D model but also share it for free DIY use on forums. It was quite surprising to read the article above and realize that the 6bit coding tool shape is extremely close to the appearance of Printables 3D model without pointing any reference to it, or to the previously existing Match Technical M-Coder. I personally think that it's important to reference all the hard work performed by photo community in the past collecting 6bit codes, and making coding templates, which I didn't observe in the article or on the site. Anyway, I made too quick conclusions, and didn't take into account other points of view. My personal impression about the similarity to the model shared for non-commercial use on Printables also triggered something in mind, though the similarity can be easily explained by the lens mount origin. If the AkaraLabs design is freshly built based on M mount, it should mean its precision should be higher than I initially thought. If you explore most DIY 6bit coders - they have rounded rectangular sockets, but in fact Leica M mount 6bits have rounder trapezoid shape. I'm sure it can be clarified moving forward. I think its up to you to decide based on possibilities - find the place to 3D print free available model, or purchase recreated monetized version and support AkaraLab effort which is also valuable.
I just got the Akara Kit and used it with an Uni Super Ink Fine point oil based pigment ink marker (the exact pen used with this product in a recent Mr Leica RU-vid). I used it on my Voight 35mm f/2 Ultron, Voight 28 mm f/2 Ultron, Voight 50 mm f/1.5 Nokton, and Voight 75mm f/1.5 Nokton. Went on easy and thus far has worked flawlessly
Excellent device. I used a Hahnemühle Pigment Liner that I use for signing prints. It worked fine. Not sure how permanent the ink will be but it hasn’t rubbed off yet.
Thank you and I'm really glad it's done you well. The ink generally recommended is the UNI SUPER INK MARKER PNA-125 PEN but many random markers work just fine.
The Shopify site is new and I've transferred all postage costs across from my eBay 'store'. $32 doesn't sound right, it might be having more than one item and it's not combining shipping costs, I'll need to review and adjust. Thanks for the heads up
Fyi as shipping should be what it actually costs on the before link: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256411964193?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=VH31oIrZRw2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=VH31oIrZRw2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE
@@HenleyBaileyFrom the US website, it still is showing up a $32 for International shipping. So, I imagine you are using DHL or something. A toothpick shipment costs over $30 with DHL.
Ok, I've found the international shipping options and updated them, it should be way more reasonable now. :) Thanks for letting me know and I'll continue to tweak postage to try and get it to be as low as possible for single and combined items.
I'm going to remake this to make it better and spend more time on it plus pronounce vignette correctly. No idea how I got through 10 years of being a professional photographer without realising this.
Usually the profiles are close enough that it makes a positive difference plus you get the focal length included in your EXIF data which can be reason enough even if you don't keep the other adjustments applied to your RAW file.
You can easily disable the corrections in your editing software after the fact, it's good for getting correct lens information attached to the exit data
@@TheChewbee Yes, it's highly likely the ink used was not compatible. This pen is recommended: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003L6J308/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This phone is shit I bought it a while back when it first came out, battery kept overheating, I RMA got a new one same model screen died, RMA again last one lasted 1 year 2 months and started overheating to 90C. Sony just makes shit products.
Brandneue Fenix 7x Saphire Solar... Kompass funktioniert nicht mehr. Kalibrierung bringt auch nichts. Norden ist Mal hier Mal da 🤣 Kaufe mir wieder ne Apple Watch. Da hält der Akku zwar nicht so lange aber dafür funktioniert die Uhr wenigstens.
