Have to say thank you for the great idea about using the compressed air to get the new gasket setup to go around the piston. Did this yesterday and it worked like a dream.
As the marshal who makes a brief appearance at the end of your race 1 video it was much better to see you enjoy the race and actually move up through the field in race 3 rather than meet you in the gravel for a third time!!
When I was sitting in assembly waiting to take part in the race after yours this afternoon I did have a wry smile when I heard yours was one of the cars in the gravel at Paddock that caused the red flag. Hope all is OK and you can get it sorted and have a better day tomorrow. Should be safe as I'm not even at the circuit.......
Tbf a couple cars run without ABS in the champ, you shouldn't mess up the tyres too much they're a fairly durable compound. And Jackson posts video's as well, you can watch them to see where you can push a bit harder in the car too. www.youtube.com/@roadsportuk/videos
It looked like that to watch as well. Our son couldn't get his head round it not being a race, despite knowing it was qualifying, because he was just watching people trying to get past each other.
It is _amazing_ fun! I'm planning to do something a bit more highlight-y with the footage at some point, but I figured folks might be interested in the raw incar footage for the mo :D
I made my own version of the "modifry gopro mount" with a sheet of 2mm aluminium and some sawing and drilling. You can remove the wind deflector, put the sheet underneath it, and bolt it back on with the bolts going through holes that you've drilled in the sheet. Stick a mount on the front and you're done!
Thanks for posting this, really helped me a lot. I did this and the air pump delete at the same time. Engine bay looks less cluttered, weight reduction and increased airflow into the radiator. 👍
I'm going here next week trying to do my research and your onboard lap is the best example I've found yet at how to drive this circuit in a road car. Your camera gives the best perspective of the gradient of each corner too. On a lot of other videos the fish eye effect tends to straighten out the corners, making them not look quite as difficult as they actually are. Yours gives a truer perspective, thank you for uploading and your lap was clean and smooth, definitely helped show me how to drive this circuit. Thanks.
@@geekontrack the dust cover method proposed worked out great for me. Would it be the same process (using air) for the from caliper piston dust shield??
Spray paint, if you're tracking it, high temp paint is essential. Even with high temp paint, the colour of these went from yellow to burnt orange on the tips.
The rears get very hot. The S2000 OEM fitment is solid rear rotors, and they're thin enough that you can't get aftermarket vented ones without a lot of messing around. As a result in time for 2022 track season I'm switching to a pair of RX8 calipers and a vented Mustang GT disc with mounting hardware from Sakebomb Garage. I really need to get a video together that covers the current state of the S2K.
I just finished rebuilding the rear brakes on my S2000. Don't think I would've tried to attempt without this video, so thank you. Here are few things I learned. 1) The hardest part about this entire process is installing the dust boot onto the body with the piston. Getting the bottom lip seated into the groove of the body is cumbersome. I tried your method of using compressed air to expand the dust boot, but I found the bottom lip would always come loose. This method is also dangerous because it doesn't take much air to make the piston shoot out and possibly pinch or even break fingers. My method is to slide the dust boot over the top portion of the piston and down. You want to slide it down enough where the bottom lip is hanging off the piston. From there, you can work the bottom lip into the body groove. After partially threading the piston, you must inspect the bottom lip for full contact. I used a thin straight pick to push the rubber towards the inside and inspected 360 degrees around. 2) What this video doesn't include is the installation of the retaining ring before installing the main seal, piston, and dust boot so don't forget that. 3) Make sure the lever is already fastened to the e-brake shaft (the piece that accepts the pill) before installing the e-brake internals. Once the spring is compressed via the retaining ring, it becomes difficult to install the lever on the e-brake shaft since it offsets the e-brake shaft just enough where you can't install it. 4) I somehow managed to swap the e-brake shafts into the wrong body the first time I installed, so make sure parts for the left and right brakes are kept together. On the bright side, I'm confident I can rebuild one of these in about 15 minutes now.
So you place the dust boot onto the piston first, with the bottom lip hanging off, you then start to push the bottom lip into the groove using a thin tool but how do you do the last 1-2cm? It obviously becomes inaccessible, do you give it a slow twist for it to go into place itself?
I've just re-watched and I think me doing it is on the cutting room floor! (Although the circlip is definitely in the caliper!) I'll download this as the source as been cleared up a long time ago - and then put a note in at the right point.
@@geekontrack No worries, i was preparing myself for doing it and was wondering if you needed the C-clamp to reassemble that part too. Luckily that circlip is a bit easier to get in to place! Both of my rears were rusted terribly so this was a very helpful video. Thank you!
