One important note. Your cases should ALL be trimmed to the same length. If you have a case that is too long you will start the crimp too soon and it will be too deep. If the case is too short you will get a very weak or possibly no crimp at all.
this is vey cool, thanks for the new content. if you make a caulk mark on the wall and run a test you can use that a a registration mark to keep you head in the frame. Just an FYI
I have just bought one of these in 308. Only extra thing I bought was a set of digital scales. It produces really good, consistent and accurate rounds using X-Terminator Powder and 168Gr PPU Match Bullets. I am never in a rush to load ammo and can produce 50 ish in an hour. Perfectly adequate for my needs.
I liked your video and think I might give it a try, I have been casting for 30+ years now. The observation I made is your uncoated bullet seems wrinkley to me. I always cast HOT! I think it fills the mold better and makes the base and lube bands crisper. I like them frosty. That may help the powder coating stick in a more😮 uniform manner. Great video.
This is a great tool, The only problem with it is if you are seating purposely oversized cast lead bullets, this will swage them down a bit and accuracy can suffer. I use mine in 38 special and 32 S&W Long when loading Hollow base wadcutters. I skip the initial resizing step since that necks down the brass too much to seat a long wadcutter bullet in some cases without deforming them - then I seat and crimp the wadcutters flush with the case mouth, and then run them through these carbide factory crimp dies to make them feed through my various revolvers of the same caliber. It makes all the rounds uniform and any slight deformation in Hollow base wadcutter diameter caused by the carbide fcd does not seem to affect performance and I avoid messing up the nose of the soft wadcutters by trying to force them into a too-narrow case.
Good afternoon. I've recently started loading for the 7.62x39. I'm using Accurate 2200. I'm 1/10th over max. 2300fps out of 16" ruger ranch bolt gun. That's with a 123 gr Hornaday sst
It's sad part about it if you can't deal with somebody.They claim they've been loaded forever but they don't know what they're doing and you don't know what you're doing
I've been reloading a long time and have never used one. I've been told how much it's almost magical, but this is the first time I've seen the benefit of it explained. Out of curiosity, has anyone used a LFCD with cast bullets and pulled the bullet to see if it got resized along with the brass?
Mine seem to be catching in the middle. So they won't quit go all the way into the gauge. I've checked all my dimensions against the reloading data and also my other rounds that drop into the case gauge freely. The dimensions seem fine. I can see a very slight wear ring around where the base of the bullet sits inside the case. I have no idea what is causing this to happen.
Love the "dummy round". I have always used a "live round" to "preset my bullet seating die". I take a "crimped" round and PUSH the round with bullet facing a table and PUSH! If it moves in, I crimp a little bit more. I also check my loaded rounds with a "Sheridan test die" that is OPEN so I can SEE how the rounds fit. Sheridan also sells "closed test dies".
These are convinient setups when you get a new to you gun and want to play with a couple variables. Get to know the gun and what it likes and doesnt like. Fire off a some factory ammo as a start point. Chrono, work from there.
I've learned in life that I gravitate towards people that are capable of explaining the things that they preach over people who can't. I also tend to listen to older folk as they've " been there and done that" long before I've come along. If you don't have a n explanation as to why I'm having an issue you don't have answer worth hearing.
I like the descriptions and explanations. Really helpful that the details are there and not rushed through like so many other vids. Great for newbies like myself. Only been reloading for 5 years, but the components were unobtanium for so long, I got off to a slow start. Really like your videos.
Thank you. This really means a lot to me. I’m usually called long winded. The reason I started making videos is because I couldn’t find videos that showed the kind of details I wanted to see.
People are just too stuck on using a 4-die set over a 3-die set not realizing the only difference is the fourth die is a Crimp die so you don’t have to do both in the 3rd die which you are going to show you can! Hope that helps!?
This is where i am right now. 50 jacketed and 50 hi tek coated. My first time reloading in a long time. My press is even similar to yours. Very odd. I guess i need one of those blocks to check my rounds when I'm finished crimping. Thanks for this. the answer to a very specific question I had I'm subbing right now RR. Really, thanks a lot.
I have found that the cheaper powder will lead your barrel. I have never had any leading with Eastwood powder. After 1000 rounds the barrel looks spotless. The Eastwood powder is well worth the extra money since you can coat several thousand bullets with one pound. I always size after coating.
Great start to finish on a Lee setup. Or any setup. I don’t have the 50th, so I’m missing some of what that kit comes with. I am new to reloading, the kit I have is comparable, and saved this vid for future reference. Despite the differences in caliber and equipment, if you have half a brain, this vid will 100% get someone like me started successfully!! Thanks again. Liked, subbed, commented and shared. Keep up the great work, sir!
I love these things! This is exactly what old man Lee invented them for, when you don’t have access to your loading room or the money for all the equipment ! Once you get used to using them it’s surprising how quick you can reload spent ammo.🇬🇧🏴
Why paint cast bullets? What about the added thickness of the powder coating to the bullet diameter? I would be hesitant to send one down a gun that I care about, then again, I dont shoot cast bullets.
Powder coating is impact resistant and can be safely resized in a bullet resizer without lube. If properly done can severely reduce or completely stop barrel leading. Bullet lube is dealer's choice after that.
Good video. I do 300BLK and 308 with my hand press, including a full size. I notice you weren't lubing the mouth of the case necks. It's slightly more tedious, but I have found a Q tip with lube lightly to the inside of the case mouth makes a big difference, especially on the re-opening the press action.
