Can that Phillips hard start cap go bad ? Is there a way to fluke meter to test if its gone bad. Also can one actually just bypass it on an outside AC unit ? ( ie wire nut two red wires together that used to go to Phillips hard start cap )
One way to explain phase angle is this: The capacitor causes a delay (a phase shift) in the alternating current in one winding compared to another, so that the motor *moves*. Each cycle gets to one winding before it gets to the other (that's what a phase shift means) so that every cycle keeps the motor going, pulling it first to one position and then to the next. Without phase shifts, those electromagnets would just hold the motor in a fixed position. Some AC motors need a capacitor only to start, because once they're moving, the recurrent pull of the AC keeps them moving. Others also need a capacitor to keep running.
I just acquired a 1954 A5 20 gauge NIB I didn’t think I would ever find one I also have a 1913 light 12 and a very nice 1957 light 12 love these guns and always said if they still sold them new I would buy one and I got luck.
Great review. Interesting you mention the heat from the internal PSU, I have the R71E version in the UK since new in 1987. it lasted 3 years and made a horrendous noise from the speaker and that was the end of mains usage ! Rewired it for12v and its still in use today, and with the original ram board battery. 37 years not bad for a battery !
Good review, I just lost my R70 , in excellent condition until I keyed my big Yaesu and forgot to disconnect my r70 and now doesn't receive from so 239 connecter, is there anyone who is trusted to repair, I still use my R71a love the older ICOM rigs, THX. N7VFN
In a resistive circuit (heaters) the voltage and current are in phase. In an inductive (motor) circuit the voltage leads the current by a quarter of cycle (90 degrees). In a capacitive circuit the voltage lags the current (90 degrees). This shift ruins the torque. So the capacitor accomplishes Power Factor Correction. Thus improving the torque.
Wow.....I have both of these.... plus an extra R71A....(both with Pass Band Tuning) !!!! Great radios !!! Owned one of each for 25 years (bought used). Second R71A was bought a couple years ago for $50.00!!
My father in law have 2 of them. He got them from japan during his service. Dont reallt have alot of knowledge about this weapon. Start with why i can only load 3 instead of 4
I think there hasn't been any comments in the last 3 days because... Well, I'll be the first to ask: S.A.Y. W.H.A.T Seriously though, I'm going to have stare at that schematic a bit (no, not proud to admit that:). Because that simple little drawing is bending my reality a bit. It's like when someone quickly asks what a family member's name is and you can't think of it. It's simplicity is what is so perplexing I hope to return with a ah'Ha! and a big smile. Please stand by. Thank you for the Tip (which ironically was the same thing my mohel told me). Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd House On the Left
Interesting fault, a rectifier affecting your workshop lights, it must have been putting a hell of a strain on the power transformer, your probably lucky it didn't destroy anything else.
The first tube circuit we'll work on is the ballast tube circuit. V508 (5749) and RT512 (3TF7) These must be supplied by the R-390A 25V filament supply. To do this, sever the connecting wire at pin 8 of jack J517 (underneath the deck) to free this slot up (hint: save access to the connector end of the wire as you will use it to wire supply to V509). Then, sever the connection at pin 2 of RT512 and wire this pin to pin 8 of J517 of the R-390 deck with a long piece of new wire. The filament return connection remains unmodified. This modification will make the BFO/PTO/ballast tube series connections identical to the R-390A 25V filament supply connections. As mentioned above, this 25V supply is insufficient to supply the remainder of the tube filaments, thus the need to employ the 6V supply for this task. The following 6V tubes shall have filaments wired from the 6V R-390A supply. The filament pins of these tubes are pins 3 and 4. Don't sever any connections unless instructed to do so. The modification will use as much existing R-390 IF deck wiring as possible (and thus may seem a bit screwy to you until finished). V504 (6BJ6) 6V will come from its existing connection at pin 4. Ground will come in the next step. V503 (6BJ6) Wire pin 3 of V503 to pin 4 of V504 for 6V supply. Ground V503, pin 4. V502 (6BJ6) 6V supply will come from an existing connection at V503, pin 3. Ground V502, pin 3. V501 (6BJ6) Sever ground connection at V501, pin 3 and wire pin 3 to V502, pin 4. V505 (6AK6) 6V supply will come from existing connection at pin 4. Ground will come in the next step. V506 (6AK6) Ground pin 4 of V506. Wire pin 3 of V506 to pin 4 of V505 for 6V supply. V509 (6BJ6) Locate the free wire which was cut from underneath J517, pin 8, and connect it to the 6V filament supply at J517, pin 20. The following tubes are 12AU7's wired in various series schemes in the R-390. They must be rewired according to their 6V option for use in the R-390A. Note two of the connections require dropping resistors on the 6V source of V507 and V510 to obtain the desired 5.3V filament voltage. V511 Sever ground connection at pin 5. Connect pins 4 and 5 together for 6V supply, ground pin 9. V507 Sever connections at pins 4, 5 and 9, including the two resistors (one 120 ohm and one 22 ohm). Wire 6V supply from your previous work at V505, through the deck opening for variable capacitor C525, to pins 4 and 5 through a 3.9 ohm, 1 watt resistor. Ground pin 9. V 510 Sever connections at pins 5 and 9. Ground will come from existing pin 4 connection. Remove 120 ohm resistor between pins 4 and 9. Wire pin 5 to pin 4. Wire 6V supply from J517, pin 20 to V510 pin 9 through a 3.9 ohm, 1 watt resistor. There are no changes to any of the other connections in the R-390 deck. Prior to installing the modified R-390 deck in your R-390A, you must check your work. Perform continuity checks from J517, pin 8, with RT512, pin 2. Perform filament supply and ground continuity checks as follows. Note: There will be more than one ground connection at various tube sockets, but the filaments should have continuity exactly as shown. Filament supply is checked from J517, pin 20. V501, filament, pin 3; ground, pin 4. V502, filament, pin 4; ground, pin 3. V503, filament, pin 3; ground, pin 4. V504, filament, pin 4; ground, pin 3. V505, filament, pin 4; ground, pin 3. V506, filament, pin 3; ground, pin 4. V507, filament, pins 4 and 5; ground, pin 9. V509, filament, pin 4; ground, pin 3. V510, filament, pin 9; ground, pins 4 and 5. V511, filament, pins 4 and 5; ground, pin 9. Now insulate any bare connections, and use mini-tie wraps to secure the new wires to sturdy nearby points. To enable final installation of the deck in your R-390A, you'll need to make two adapter cables. These cables shall consist of jumpers with BNC's on each end. You'll also need two adapters of the type found on the back of the frame of the R-390A at the IF OUT jack (AMPHENOL 47200). This will provide crossover from MB connection (R-390A standard) to BNC (R-390 standard). Connect P-218 of the R-390A to J-526 of the R-390 IF deck with one of the cables. Connect P-213 of the R-390A to J-525 of the R-390 IF deck with the other cable. It is a good idea to label these cables. Install the deck in your R-390A. You will notice that the screw holes are the same as for the R-390A IF deck, however the screws of the R-390 deck are of larger diameter. I did not change these screw as they are captive into the deck. The BFO, BANDWIDTH, and power connector of the deck will hold it in place, however I would not install it in a Jeep this way. Changing these screws is optional.
Can the R8600 do P25 Police Trunked systems/Repeaters? I’m going to get my Canadian HAM License, but listening to Police systems started my path down the radio rabbit hole. My local Police switched to a Trunk System a few years ago so my Scanner won’t pick them up anymore. I think I have the Uniden BCD996 (might be BCD996T or XT, not too sure, I know there was a companion single DIN setup to go along with my Scanner) without going to check.
@@kwm380What would you recommend for a good antenna for mounting on the Peak of my House? Not ridiculously large, something with good waf? 😂 if I picked up the 8600?
@@kwm380 Thx. Would an 8ga Audio Speaker/Power Wire wrapped around my house near the Gutters work? I have Rolls and Rolls of 8ga. I used to be sponsored in Car Audio Competitions, so have everything from 2/0 to 18ga all Rolls, tons.
By far one of the best and most thorough video I've seen. I would love the 8600 but yes... a bunch of dollars. Is there another receiver that you would consider a great rig without the extreme cost? I am not a ham.
I guess most auto 5 buyers don’t realize that the quality went up after they moved to Japan. The metal used in the barrel of the fn models is much softer.
I have some questions maybe you could help me with about the 8600, are you a member of a club that will have tables? Send your call sign I will email you from QRZ, I have a pic on qrz on my station I am working on (Ki5iYV)
Hey there from Maine! I just got my Christmas present from ETSY of all places. A pretty nice 348Q, already with power supply and cord. Mostly original tubes with 1943 date codes. I have replaced the weakest tubes and it works nice and the BFO easily sorts out SSB and is very easy to adjust. However, all the bands are off pretty far. WWV shows up on 4.7 Mhz. That is the worst but all bands are off. 80m ham band is off by 500 kHz, etc. My question for you is- will the trimmers adjust that far? I thought I would ask before I begin. Thanks!
The alignment will fix that problem. It’s the oscillator adjustment in particular. Do that first to get the frequency alignment you want and then do the others.
IC-7300 is exceptional for what you get vs price as a SWL/HF Rx. I have a huge affect towards older radios but 7300 just sounds better, performs better. MW bcast sound like FM stereo... Lastly I have discovered how good it performs for scanning of known HF utility frequencies like HF-GCS or Long Range ATC, it's super fast and quiet (no relays clicking in scan mode).
the ic7300 fails big style above 30mhz due to lack of filters . the icr8600 is very good above 30mhz . i have found both radios to be excellent below 30mhz the 7300 being slightly better but again the icr8600 brings other stuff to the table
Thanks for the video, great job! I have a question, does the IC-R8600 have CW and RTTY decoding capability? I am SWL enthusiast and I mainly do beacons, and I test different antenna configurations. So for me a good way to confirm a beacon signal is if the receiver is capable to decode the message.
Outstanding. Saved me a lot of time. My instructions sent with the seatbelts were just like the useless ones you received, even though from another company. I used the spacers also, and no obstruction with the flip seats in back.
Thanks for your video ! Much simpler than I thought..... I use a heathkit signal generator And a ham rig Digital multi meter Mine is a 348 k , a hamfest reck !! It's a wonderful radio Thanks Bill , kd4hlg
You said it was a pain to check the start cap because of the bleeder resistor but you didn't explain how to do it. I know how to check a run cap but is checking a start cap different because of the bleeder resistor?
Great video! What would happen if the potential relay was stuck on and kept the start cap on the circuit? Would the compressor be ruin immediately? Is a 5 2 1 hard start kit on a otherwise normally working compressor too much of a risk to use? Some HVAC technicians recommend it to extend the life of a brand new compressor while others warn me of the dangers of ruining a normal working compressor if the run cap or potential relays fails at some point and by the time it happens, it would have been too late.
Very helpful video! My instructions that came in the package were a joke. Your idea of drilling into the struts was brilliant! Made a very difficult job a piece of cake. Thank you!
