videos are to share my life experience and adventure living off the grid in Arizona. All videos are mainly for entertainment due to the fact I am not an expert at anything. in fact I spent many years prior to living off the grid watching other RU-vid videos just for ideas. Some of you folks are simply wonderful. Any shout outs I do are simply just to recognize someone or company or product for how well they explain things, handle things, the quality or functionality of .... join me by subscribing. entertain me with your comments .
Dude!!! Fantastic ✋ BIG THANK YOU.... Im moving into my RV in the next few weeks, Lord willing and Im trying my level best to create safe space and potty access for my dogs!
Compared to a lot of insane videos on solar install this was one of the better ones. Different color wire is not a problem if you are not getting an inspection. In some installations where another person used the wrong wire color, I just wrap green tape around the wire just before the wire terminal. Electrically it doesn't matter. My understanding of grounding the battery pack is as follows: 1. If you ground the battery bank you can use a single side (positive) fuse/ dc breaker for current protection. 2. If the batter bank is not grounded, you must use a 2 pole DC breaker. PV DC input always uses a 2 pole DC breaker because it cannot be grounded. The frame of the pv panels get grounded - not the power lines. My inverter output has ground, neutral, and hot wires (120V) coming out. The ground automatically gets connected when using the terminal lugs. The case has a separate ground wire like you showed, but I don't think it will be necessary to use the case ground unless I was just going to use the inverter receptical outlets by themselves. I have read in other (competent) sources that the panel frames can have a separate ground. It's not for electrical compatibility, but rather to absorb lightning strikes. Ground rods can be copper or copper coated steel. It looks like 8 feet is the minimum for a new install. If you already put 6' rod, I don't think you are going to die. Lot of negative comments here because most of information on Internet is trash. Most likely you are being assaulted by the very same people who find you to be a competition.
So, if I understand correctly I don't need to connect the ground rod for the panels to the ground rod for my house with buried bare copper wire? Would not connecting them create a grounding loop? Finding a LOT of conflicting information online.
@@Cody_Ramer 1. The ground rod for the panels is referred to as the "additional auxiliary electrodes" for array grounding. They were originally required (NEC 2014), but now are optional. 2. Mike Holt video "Solar Photovoltaic (PV) Systems, Equipment Grounding and Bonding, NEC 2020 - [690.43]" says you should not even install the auxiliary ground rod, but rather use ONLY the service panel ground. 3. EnergyUME video "How to ensure safe and effective solar grounding" shows using a bonding connector between the two ground rods. The issue here is that a lightening strike happens nearby your panels. The energy goes through the ground which has RESISTANCE. The resistance causes a voltage gradient inside the earth when the lightening strikes. This voltage gradient means that your auxiliary ground rod will possibly be at a different potential (voltage) than your service panel ground rod. This means that "ground" from one end of the system relative to "ground" at the other end of the system will actually be conducting. What causes this voltage gradient is the low conductive path through the earth. So theoretically, having the bonding wire between the ground rods fixes this problem. The problem I have with this is if you are going to run the wire from ground rod to ground rod, why not just run a single wire above ground which satisfies the requirements for NEC 690. My conclusion: Use the service panel ground rod and don't use any auxilary ground rod as shown in this video. By the way, be sure to ground any other non-current components such as the conduit that carries your PV wires.
I have a little sulfer smell in my hot water so once a week I close off the water filter valves; take off the filter and pour a little water out; put in 1/2 cup of 12% food grade hydrogen peroxide and put the filter back on. After opening the valves I run the hot water for 5-6 gallons, I wash dishes or do a load of laundry with the warm water setting. Works good foy my system and is really cheap to operate
I’ve got the same leak situation, I’ve even put a tray to catch the water like you did, but I never see where the leak is at. Looks like I’ll just have to rebuild those lines with new fittings. Crazy since I don’t see where it’s leaking. Going to Lowe’s.
For most of my life, used untreated water. You boil the water you drink and use hot tap for washing hands. Don't drink water in the shower and no problems. I do treat now. I have three tanks. One to collect. One to treat. One to use (pumped from treated tank) You can also use pond filter to filter and uvc treatment for your treatment tank. Always boil the water you drink (and boil cold water, to avoid metal toxins from the hot water supply).
Hello I was wondering if there was a difference between the 7355 and the 8355 model and if so what is the benefit of the 8355 and if I do get the 8355 model do I also need to replace the fuse panel like you did or can I leave the old one?
The first check valve is fine, so is the last , the middle check valve was the problem for sure, it takes pressure to push open the valve, as soon as the pump makes pressure to open it , it is met with the pressure after the valve and spikes the pump pressure backwards to the pump, as soon as this is equalised the valve shuts, the pump will then try to bring pressure back up opening the valve again, again two different pressures meeting and trying to work against each other back and forth, the drop from the pump is when its met with higher pressure from the tank pushing back on it, once equalised the pump will bring the tank back up to pressure ready for it to repeat over and over, its all just a balance of pressures either side of the check valve
You can't compress water, but you can compress air. When your water is pressurised, it's actually a rubber balloon in your water tank that has compressed air in it which pushes against the water to pressurise it. You can't have check valve between the pump and the water tank.
They seem pretty strong! You could use them as stud finders by locating the screws in wood studs or just slide across until it sticks with metal studs😁👍
In the North East of AZ, the forestry department is actually removing junipers because of their invasiveness to the area. In less than 2 years after removing 1/3 of the trees, the area looks like a whole new place. Green, filled with wildlife, and the water table has risen. The pronghorn are thriving too. The NE was originally all grassland back in the 1850's, according to cowboy journals.
thanks for this, it really helps. But...if I have two wires going to my solar charge controller, can they go from the positive and negative nodes on the same battery?
I may have gotten a little hot and bothered and wet lol. Still a dream on my homestead to build one. However this economy has been making developing on the homestead take forever.
Thank you for this. I bought a truck a year ago and was never given the key for the tow hitch pin. I needed to swap my hitch for the first time today as I was buying a large travel trailer. Was about to go ham with a hammer and decided to see if anyone else has had the same issue. Grabbed a random jack handle and had it off in 10 seconds with the same reaction of what? That was to easy.
I've only know that the check vale should go on the in line to the pump befor the pump, this keeps the system primed even if the foot valve in the well goes bad, ask me how I know😅. I was also told any in line filter should go after the pump, why I don't know that either.
