First of all I gotta say what a heck of a job you did- And man oh man you just gotta love the Fernco fittings of any kind. I know they made my plumbing days a whole lot easier. Hey, ive got a quick question... How did you find the exact location of the leak and pipe beside for knowing the layout? I used to pay $1000 bucks just to have a company called Sonar Bonar come out for 30 minutes put a sonar and listen for bubbles wich only half of the time indicated a reference of a leak and area. Man oh man! ??? 💪😎👍 You da man!
Horrible video. So not so what this guy is doing. You will have the worse shower ever. Stupid shit. Do you damn homework people. This should be a video on how exactly not to build a shower jeezzz
I'm not commenting on this to be mean or a jerk. I just want you to know that this type of shower pan build is not correct. You are using a weeping flange drain and all the principles and standards for the install of it have been over looked. That flange is designed to have a pre sloped base, a vinyl liner, and a sloped mud bed. Gravity and capillary action will force water to work its way toward the flange and down the weep holes. Mixing a liquid membrane with this type of flange is a sure recipe for a failure. Fortunately this is being done on a concrete slab, if it were on a second floor in a framed home you would see water damage very quickly. DYI'rs need to understand the principles of design that go into a shower pan. There are two systems for shower pans. Either a weeping flange like that one, with all the proper components that go along with it or, a bonded flange system, like a Schluter drain which is designed to have a membrane bonded to it, whether you use a mortar bed or foam. Don't mix both systems. Unfortunately, I tear out a bunch of shower failures that have been constructed like this. Water will work its way into the mortar bed and with all that liquid membrane on top it will sit and stagnate there. If it's on a second floor, it will work its way onto the wood subfloor and ceiling below.
No!!! as a professional, with hundreds of showers constructed, I warn you not to replicate this, especially over a wood subfloor. All the drainage principles of a shower pan design have been violated here.
Exactly what I know too!!! Best way to do it is run slightly thinner pipe to tunnel through the whole length or as I saw one guy do, a bigger pipe over it via a trenchless repair job!
Well-done, very informational. THANK YOU! BTW, It's a "rotary hammer" not a hammer-drill. At least, that's the naming convention I'm used to in the United States. Hammer drills lack the impulse power as they have to move a massive chuck back and forth.
I hired a local plumbing company to put a scope down the pipe. The plumbing company identified where the roots entered the pipe. The root intrusion location was marked using a surface device on the top side of the concrete . The cost was around $250.
The pipe was traced by a local plumbing company. It was a camera/locator head snake. The snake stopped at the root intrusion. A surface metal detector like device located the position of the snake/ root intrusion. The cost was about $300.
I would have taken the time to cover the walls with plastic and used a saw with a water connection. Thats the only way to keep the dust in check! If you are doing it your way you need to have a box fan on a couple of windows to extract the dust outdoors.
I almost paid $5K for someone to do this because I had so many questions. Your video is exactly what I needed! I’ve been searching weeks for instruction on building a custom shower pan with a linear drain on a slab - and using red guard. I am very excited and feel more prepared now. Thank you!!!!!
Always use the right tool for the job. Sure, you can use a hammer and chisel but it will take you forever and increases the chance of an injury. You save money doing it yourself so get the right tool is my philosophy.
All that work to remove old cast, just to install cast. SMDH. Why not install sch 40 instead? Would last forever! Hire a licensed plumber next time. Regards, a Licensed Plumber.
@@JWbabyshark a leaking water pipe in an adjacent wall or a leak of a water pipe under the slab and the water is seeping up through a crack in the slab.
Nice job ! Those ARC bands are great - expensive but really high quality. Only issue is that there is no center lip which similar to Fernco's - they can offset over time. I'll use a standard stainless no hub coupling on one side and just one ARC on the other. Our Code requires a metal plate underneath it to act as a brace.
This is the major reason why I would prefer a raised foundation as opposed to a concrete foundation. Of course the raised foundation's a little bit more initial cost, the fear factor of a sewage leak, water leak or electrical/cable lines being possibly inaccessible due to being buried in or under concrete doesn't appeal to me. That's my opinion. Every habitable property I've owned has had a crawl space/raised foundation with the exception of a townhome that I owned for less than 2 years. I love the access. Water pipes, sewer pipes, electrical wiring, etc. no problem...🤔
I prefer a house with a basement. That way most the maintenance items are accessible from the basement. Unless you have a leak under the basement slab.
