Hahaha, same... Though usually it's more... sharp geometric shapes for me :P Though for-real, while working on this project, I did see proper lenia-like stuff when closing eyes to go to sleep haha.
10mins in and im telling you, youve just create a wonder/magic. All i need now is to watch this video multiple times to properly assimilate this axial flux concept because im sooo used to radial flux.
Okay okay... 3:27 here, let say i want a balance between speed and torque(or should i say efficient speed and torque) what will, hypothetically, be the best configuration for the coils and magnetic pole? This is probably a future question that im asking now😂
Generally you'll want a high winding factor, a good resource for bldc motors is things-in-motion.blogspot.com/2019/01/selecting-best-pole-and-slot.html
Wow. Awesome project really, the way you set up the coils and ferromegnetic look very nice but I bet they were a pain in the a... to set up. I am actually trying to build a wind turbine generator and came up with faulhabercoils in the stator and a double rotor (on top and underneath). Those faulhabercoil windings are very nice, because you don't come up with lots of wire outside the magnetic fields, the downside is, that the magnetic fields do not cross the wire in 90° angle. This is (maybe) the cause why you have to 'kickstart' your motor. Love your work!
6 pole stator and 8 magnets pole it's a very awkward motor to operate 😂. 6 poles stator works very smoothly with just 2 poles magnets rotor. stator poles > rotor poles.
Sorry, but 6 slots to 2 poles has a winding factor of 0.5, which is really shit. I do admit that the winding factor of 6 slots to 8 poles of 0.866 isn't the best possible with these numbers either (9 slots to 8 poles has a winding factor of 0.945)... but I definitely have to disagree that 6 slot 2 pole would be better than what I made here.
Afaik sync motors work because of Foucault currents (it's not about an attraction but about a repulsion). And you split your rotor into strips (and selected iron for that instead of aluminum or cupper). So, where a current must go?
Not very well haha. Air core, large air gap, not the best magnet topology, a broken winding all contribute to it having such a low efficiency. To be clear, I never probably actually hit the sweet spot for efficiency on this motor, so I'd imagine the eventual max efficiency would have been about 60%, but that's still a lot lower than the 75 to 90% that most cheap electric motors get. And for example automotive electric motors are usually up to 95% efficient, and I believe the most efficient production motor might have been something like 98% efficient.
@@BirdbrainEngineer I am not an engineer but somehow electric motors somehow are made for easy manufacturing methods from what I know. I should have said that is what a many people have told me who were in the KNOW. When average people invent super high efficiency it makes me question all the information that is presented to me Sir. Who would you say is the most promising inventor of the best so far presented to us and the world ??? Good day to you and thanks for ultra honest video which keeps all honest. Peace and good luck with your channel too. vf😀😀
What I am wondering is why don't the electric motor companies make ture high efficiency motors when they known the technology from TESLA for over a hundred years ??? This tech is right under there nose. Period vf
Brushed Axial Flux motors were first built by Faraday and later Jacobi made an actually useful motor. The reason for not building axial flux motors is because the efficiency gain in modern motors is not that huge... the gains are in motor weight and space savings, at the cost of more complex and expensive construction... so for the vast majority of use cases where electric motors are used, they just don't make economic sense. But in automotive applications, electric planes and so on, axial flux is likely the way things will go.
Awesome! I stumbled across this type of motor for the first time today, and this video did a great job of explaining the guts. Hearing this style of motor was lighter, it got me thinking about 3D printer extruders, and how the fastest printers tend to have the lightest hotends. It got me wondering how small folks have made them. While I didn't find a NEMA17 sized motor, this was still awesome to see. Thanks for sharing. ☺️ PS: 💅♥️
To whoever is interested in the emergence phenomena and cellular automata, I strongly suggest to read Stephen Wolfram "A new kind of science" : Dr Wolfram invested the last decades investigating this theory. His team and his hypothesis is that the whole complex life scenarios and phisical dynamics of the universe are caused by emergence. Still a theory obviously, but very fascinating read material
Depends on your use case! If your design can work good enough for your use case with an "air" core and the current through the phases is not very high then why not! But for anything with higher power is likely to not be worth it - There are several limitations that the fiberglass used in pcb manufacturing brings up; Less copper in the stator as fiberglass takes up the bulk of the pcb's volume, worse cooling because the heat needs to transfer through the fiberglass first, usually no iron cores because pcb motors are extremely "flat", limited phase current because the pcb trace size is limited.
@@jebarijihed Do you mean stacking multiple together? If so, then that's possible to do, though you'll have to figure out some way of reliably connecting the traces between the different pcb-s. Stack enough of them, and you might be able to even put an iron core in it with the help of some epoxy or something. But it still doesn't help with the other problems that a pcb stator has. For something that actually needs some good amount of power density, say like an e-bike motor, then pcb-s are kind of hopeless... I'm not saying you *couldn't* do it, but I also just don't know why you would bother with it when using magnet wire is much more efficient in such cases ;>
No files for this one. Working slowly buy surely through health problems and life responsibilities towards another motor though, one that should be actually useful. That one will have files and a writeup made for it as well as the video.
I need to find a new programming project to prevent my skills getting rusty (har har). Maybe this could be it if I can wrap my head around the maths. I was half tempted to learn another language (I was looking at Lua) while I was at it, but maybe that's a step too far.
Is it too far? Depends how good your programming skills are/were. The nice thing about cellular automata is that there's a whole spectrum of implementation difficulties... While on one side of the scale, Conway's Game of Life is suitable as a beginner level difficulty, then on the other side, implementing multi-channel and multi-dimensional Lenia in an efficient manner is most certainly an intermediate to advanced level difficulty. I had programmed a little bit in Rust before I took this project. The main goal for me with this project was to learn how to code in Rust... and it certainly did help me learn the language nicely.
I believe you need at least one hall sensor to detect the phase which needs to be disconnected at that moment! otherwise, sometimes you turn it on and it just freezes and eats electricity without turning
You can run a BLDC motor in "sensored" mode as well (as long as the electronic speed controller supports it), but in that case you need 3 hall effect sensors. This motor is not sensored, and does not require any sensors to work. Unsensored motors and ESC-s (like the vast majority of drone motors for example) only expose the three motor phases and nothing else. The ESC figures out when to change the phase based on looking at the voltage induced on the disconnected phase. The reason for why this motor doesn't start up properly is because one of the coils in one of the phases is connected up in the wrong direction... to this day I am not sure how I managed to do it but I have not bothered to fix it.
I really want to use this for a game idea I had recently. This could be really cool to have in a 3D space, especially if you have an extra bit of code that will detect moving colonies with enough complexity and attach a simple chat bot to it so you can chat with these weird constantly evolving beings.
One day, I want to make a rpm meter with arduino and my 3D printer. I honestly don't have a clue where I will use this thing, but is it really important at this point? Love the maker attitude!!!!
I'm sorry, me again! I'm already at the end of the video... You are so creative and clever! Thank you for sharing your experience, personal taught, your mistakes and how to improve from them. Great source of inspiration! Love from Montréal
3:57 The fastest way I've found to write and learn Arduino coding: ask Chat GPT to do it for you and to label all the line to understand the purpose of them. I've tried it: work perfectly!! And you can ask to modify it, optimise, upgrade. No need to learn how to code. You can then adjust small stuff ex number of millisecond to wait between step and so on. You can also ask to draw the schematic and help you decide what module to buy, etc etc etc!
I've got the same idea, but never really started the project... One thing I would have done, is pour concrete in a 3D printed hollow shelve. It would make the scope very solid, limit the vibration and look high quality.
1:38 Dam I love this video! I've got the same reflexion.. Should I buy objectives and design my own with my 3D printer and maybe pimp it with arduino laying around??? Then, one year later, I still have the 4 unused objectives and eye piece and a lot of random arduino parts, but missing a scope! And this week, I've found a new/open box discount on a SWIFT 380B for 203$ canadian, shipping next day included! So, short story, it's better to buy a great scope in discount. I will print dark field filter and phone holder to get great image and save my eyes. Maybe one day I'll DIY epifluorescence on it? SWIFT 380B regular price 299$ canadian. Sold by SWIFT on Amazon (218$ US = 204 Euro) It was just above my budget for this project. But I couldn't resist at 203$ cdn (148$ US = 138 Euro)
Thank you very much for producing such a nice video. Very nice spincoater you built there. love the ingenuity. (I knew i couldn't be the only one immediately thinking spincoater when seeing these DVD storage thingies). Also respect on actually going through the trouble of making some decent software for it. In case you are still interested in optimising your setup i'd like to outline a setup i made quite recently that has worked quite well for my purposes thus far though i have to admit that it didn't get a whole lot of use yet. i really encourage trying to use an old HDD as a basis for spin coating. you can get 80GB HDDs not worth saving from the scrap for free. i have literal piles of them. As they were assembled in a clean room environment, when you open one up you will find it to be very clean and in great condition. the bearings are free of oils and frankly superb in quality, oftentimes made for millions of operating hours with maybe a few thousand hours of use. The radial runout on these things even if loaded excentrically is extremely low. thus you can get ridiculously low amounts of vibration simply by mounting them against a large hunk of flat metal and some dampening feet. For my spincoater i used one such HDD with a custom designed high precision ESC board i designed that also accomodates the other bits and pieces required. My ESC is (so that i can reuse it in other projects) also driven through PWM though i didn't directly drive it from an MCU but rather built a sawtooth oscillator, comparator and DAC circuit that generates very precise PWM signals. I'll throw the design files on github as soon as I get some time to fix some issues with the current revision and get some data in on long term wear and tear beahaviour. Also i'll need to redo the software after seeing how convenient yours is to use. once more: thank you so much for documenting your experiences, i sure did learn quite a bit from your video :D. Well.. you gained yourself a subscriber :D. love your content!
Although I enjoyed the video and it had some good information, please do not compare your project motor with a few hours of development and almost no durability with an ICE with a hundred years of development behind it and able to run a quarter of a million miles in a vehicle. Electricity generation and transmission runs somewhere around 40% efficiency and multiplying that times your 53% motor efficiency gives a system efficiency of around 21%, not bad for a few days work.
Of course *my* motor is not going to be as reliable as an ICE, but in general, motors are vastly more reliable than ICE-s... ICE-s need regular maintenance and oil changes, some as often as every 100 hours of runtime... while basically all electric motors can run for tens-, usually hundreds of thousands of hours reliably with the only maintenance being to swap out the shaft bearings every few thousand to a few tens of thousands of hours. And as for electricity generation efficiency - it's a completely meaningless metric. You do not know how the electricity I used to charge the batteries (or get from my wall) was generated. Different forms of electricity generation have different generation efficiencies. In addition... for a lot of the energy sources for electricity, we do not care if there is a fair bit of waste... ie. why does it matter that solar panels are only 20% efficient at converting the energy in sunlight into electricity? While it *does* matter if your fossil fuel ICE is 20 or 30% efficient, because you don't get your fuel "for free". We *could* compare ICE-s to Electric motors taking into account the energy efficiency of the supply chains, but even then, on average EV-s and electric motor based machines are way better, especially if renewables are used (all the more reason to shift away from fossil fuels as fast as possible). Here is a study that compares "well to wheels" efficiency of ICE vehicles to EV-s for example; DOI: 10.2478/rtuect-2020-0041 And this study is actually quite pessimistic in terms of EV-s, as it assumes a battery-to-wheel efficiency from 50 to 80%, when in reality the average is around 75 to 80%.
