Another heads up, look out for this potential monkey wrench. If the back side of your drum housing is dirty and rusty and you dont see a hole to put your screw driver in to make adjustments anywhere, dont panic, its there you'll see two. Make sure you tap out the slot on same side as the adjustment gear. First, clean it. Hit it with a wire brush if needed. You may need to punch it in and break off the little oval stamped access hole to the adjusters. I was the first to do break work on my rear drums so they were still sealed. I used a small chisel and a bfh and it only took a few good taps and it punched through. I went ahead and grabbed it with my needle nose and broke it completely off. And yes you need to adjust it close then you can do the reverse and forward break hard adjustments. I f this issue was already mentioned somewhere in these comments i apologize.
Sorry I need to get better at being on here, the runners are from a old kjet manifold we added injector bungs to and the plenum kit came from yoshifab!
Youll need to peice it all together and find a fabricator unless you're an aluminum welders, seems to work great, I did have to notch my bne strut brace for how tall it is tho
In this video it has full 3" vibrant ss exhaust piping, a holset hy35 turbo and a modified ebay tubular top mount manifold. The head is built and it has a stage 2 cam also I need to get a new video up soon, I've added a flow master flow fx muffler
I know this is super old bit I'm realizing I only liked your comment 😂, it's a b230f. Bottom end was rebuilt and I used hbeam rods and the head is built with rsi stuff. It made 306 to the wheels on pump gas and 18psi. No torque reading yet because his sensor was broke but it's always made more then hp
