Yes, it is a super basic 8044 circuit with no memory… I’m not even sure I would call the switches and knobs options 😁 good for the basic QRP rigs but not too much else
Looks like you were in semi auto mode. But at least it works. I need to find a cheap keyer for my Hermes Lite so maybe you've inspired me to start looking. Or maybe not LOL.
Yes, I think you are correct 👍 since I was already holding it upside down due to the reversed issue.. I thought it was showing enough signs of life. And I had already made everyone wait for me to find a battery…. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! 73, Bruce
True that you need to be on the lookout to get an ok deal. Better on the qth dot com classified list or once in a while one pops up on eBay. My most recent was a K2 with SSB and KAF2 for $450 - the features and filters make them my favorite. I know many will tell me to get a modern radio 😃
Here in NZ I hear US stations on my NorCal30B approx 10:30-11:30pm your time, haven't worked any (yet). My guess is most are 100W plus. Keep trying and I'll keep an ear out for you.
Well, is what you got an authentic Triad transformer or a knock-off from China? Power transformers have gotten very expensive in the past 10 years due to switch mode supplies being used in everything. Honestly $28 seems a little cheap for a transformer of those specs? Note I am not saying a knockoff is no good, most are just fine. But if you want the real thing, you need to be careful these days.
That’s funny! I like the bar mode as well. This radio arrived in hand key mode, with the memories still set up and the GrPH set to dOt mode. I just changed it to GrPH bAr. Much better! 73, bruce
Fun fact! Those "peanuts", are actually starch based and dissolve in water, there are no chemicals added or damaging to to a household drain. If you get a package with these peanuts in it, simply run the water in the tub or sink and toss them in and have fun watching them disappear. The curly peanuts won't do that because they are made from Styrofoam. But, you can use the Styrofoam ones for glue! Dissolve the curly peanuts in nail polish remover and you have a nice glue for wood applications. Just thought I'd pass on these neat little tidbits for your entertainment!
I feel your pain! This morning, WWVH is very strong here in Ontario. I wonder about the RBN sometimes, as I can hear myself very well on a online KIWI receiver, but there are no RBN spots showing up. btw...more folks need to use 30m..it is a good band! VE3IIM/VE6PG
I have built two of these . I like building them. But I have never been impressed with the receive. A friend bought one of mine years ago and loves it.
Great that you’ve built two! They are a complex kit with a large parts count. I agree about the receive performance and second the not that they are super fun to debug ABS align because the documentation is so good. You really can build a shack in the box with Elecraft rigs!
This one was USPS Priority Mail. Packing should have been a bit better as I had to loosen up the knob set screws and pull the stuck/difficult to turn knobs away from the front panel.
That is too true. I have saved searches on eBay that send me email reminders when those saved searches match. I need to delete those and start listing the toys that I’ve repaired.
I have to add that I’m having a great time debugging and using rugs that I missed along the way due to the way family and having young kids tend to put a serious dent in hobby time
How is the fr301 going? I almost bought the Japanese version before but decided against with some of the warnings about 100v Japanese items. Your comment about heaters being cheap to replace is a good point!
Steady as she goes so far! It works well. I’ve thought of wiring a 12 VAC Transformer as an auto- transformer to do a step down, but so far all is well.
@@tyrueiI I have not heard any big complaints for them shorting out on 120v just a lot of big warnings. thanks for the update, really helpfull. iv got a few projects in mind where the fr301 would of made all the difference in the world.
Replace. YES. Splice. Good idea. But I wonder where the hum went? It doesn't just go away so I would expect to see a capacitor issue. And as @laverdanick said, go ahead and put in the isolation transformer since you already have it.
What do you see in between the two glass panels? My dryer door is still clean inside. I found this on a Best Buy user forum, so I wouldn’t try a home repair…. "I SUGGEST YOU LEARN TO LIVE WITH IT. For sure , DO NOT COUNT ON BEST BUY TO HELP YOU OR FIX IT. Plus, removing/disassembling the door is NOT FOR AMATEURS! The door has a lot of triggers and switches inside that , no doubt, will cause you to throw your hands up and just buy a new dryer (YES, I know what it cost, I made the mistake of trusting a salesman at BEST BUY when I bought mine. either way, GOOD LUCK!!"
As you don’t appear to have a bench isolation transformer, the first thing I would do is to fit the transformer you bought onto the chassis. As you’ve already gone to the expense of sourcing a replacement capacitor you might as well fit it. The capacitor may have reformed while you have been using it, but it is probably still leaky and likely to fail at some point. If the old capacitor wires are sound and you aren’t going to be replacing any other components attached to those valve socket pins, splicing in to the existing wiring would seem perfectly acceptable. I was given a Heathkit C-3 capacitor tester, which will measure high voltage leakage, by my wife’s father, who at 99 isn’t doing bench work. I’ve never used it, as if in doubt replace old electrolytics with a modern capacitor. Stay safe and fit that transformer. 73 Nick G0OQK
Thanks Nick, what do you think the risk of causing hum via magnetic coupling by putting the isolation transformer on the chassis under the speaker? I’m about to try it. It seems worth it to wire it up and check the results before I drill the holes. Thanks! Bruce
That’s something I hadn’t considered Bruce, I’m not sure how much of an effect it could have, as the audio is high level at the speaker. Certainly worth doing a test install, before drilling the holes, to find the best location for it. Good luck. Nick
Being picky, but I hate that the outlet ports [left to right = 6 - 1] don't match the order of the switch [1 - 6] Thinking about changing the order on mine , so that outlet 1 is on the left and so on.
Agree that they give enough thought to the user experience. In addition I found isolation wasn’t perfect and I couldn’t get the switch clean enough to cure the intermittent issues so I retired it for multiple Daiwa switches. Do you want another one? Haha
AC/DC radio, probably an S-38 D or E ! DANGER!! Transformer less radios need an isolation transformer until you install a polarized plug to keep mains voltage off the case/chassis. I would have replaced electrolytic caps before I even turned it on. Bad safety practice on your part !!!!!
The isolation transformer and new filter caps arrived in the mail. Those will go in next. Agree about the power on except for the seller’s report that he had already been listening to the radio 📻 Fun old radios
I admit that I operated CW mobile with my K2 about 20 years ago during on a flat, straight Interstate with minimal traffic. I wouldn't do it again unless someone else was driving. de K5AVJ
My dad gave me this soldering iron when I got my first workshop at twelve years old. The heater core had burned out years ago and it was useless. I tried to get a new core since it seemed to screw in like a lightbulb but it had been discontinued years ago.
I remember seeing the irons with screw in elements. Somehow they looked more scary since the element was more exposed… The W60P has replacement elements on Amazon for $45. It was pretty well thought out. The element unplugs after removing two screws.
@@tyrueiIUnfortunately I tossed it after searching for elements on eBay and only finding vintage stock. I'm replacing it this year with an American Beauty 60-Watt model
Had a similar issue. Strong broadband noise across MW and lower ham bands no matter which room I checked. Tripped the house breaker and it was gone. Result! Tripped each breaker to find the culprit.. Damned LAN router/hub faulty PSU (admittedly 12yrs old) had turned the installed LAN cables into its own antenna system! One cable was running parallel to my antenna feed so no wonder no amount of choking helped. A MW/SW capable handheld or a battery powered HF QRP rig is a great tool for these kind of hunts. Keeping the PSU as a teaching aid.
No, the next step is eliminating the hum. I'm sure there is a need to replace most if not all of the electrolytic caps in the radio. Then move on to other things.
That’s a good reminder to check all the screws and especially the cardboard and plastic insulators that keep the “hot chassis” from also being a “hot cabinet”. I keep the multimeter connected between the case and the ground on the scope to watch for getting the plug in the socket the wrong way around. I did order an isolation transformer on Amazon to make it a bit safer…
I should have been calling CQ! I need to get back to hamming! The project backlog is growing! How is your NorCal 30 operating? We could do a zoom meeting and record it to use on RU-vid if you are game!
@@tyrueiI I'm up for it! I've just finished building a keyer so I can now embarrass myself on 30 (my straight keying is worse than my paddling). We had a freak storm blow though a couple of days ago, one of my halyards broke and the antenna is currently in a beverage configuration. Plan to fix this weekend. I'm getting nice openings to Europe in the early evenings, I'll see if western US pops up at any time ... a NorCal 30 to NorCal 30 QSO would be a good one for the log.
I’m happy to say there have been no odd noises or issues so far! Adding the missing tweeter was also a big help! Happy to say the output tubes seem to working well.
Nice! I've been working on SCA-35's for a year now, kind of obsessed. Wonderful circuit, easy to work on and beautiful EL-84 sound. I lucked out on one of them that I ordered and got beautiful Mullard power tubes, and another with a set of Holland Amperex. Both sound exquisite.
Sounds like two great buys. Mullards aren’t easy to find. What have you settled on for the speakers? I have an ANK kit clone waiting to come up on the to-do list as well Thanks for the update
@@tyrueiI Very nice, I prefer ELAC Debut 2.0. I tried various speakers out and I found it to be an excellent pairing with the SCA-35. I also tried various Klipsch including Heresy's and it sounded spectacular.
Agree! I had it up running last night. One tweeter to install on the little 8” two way speakers. And need a better sounds source. Currently playing RU-vid through an old Chromebook :)
Great tool. After you put the lead into the desoldering tool, wallow the lead about (wiggle around) as you hit the sucker. It tends to pull the solder better, and you shouldn't have to go back as much. 73!
When I work on these or the PAS preamps I leave the solder in 99% of the time and don't use a desoldering iron, with your iron you can easily pull components out and pop a new one in with little or no additional solder. I think they used lead silver solder which is absolutely timeless.
Fully agree! Tried it tonight to pull some coupling caps out of an old Dynaco tube amp and it was really perfect. Does yours have a 3-wire cord? This Japanese model has a 2-wire cord, and since it is mostly made of plastic that seems to be fine.
@@tyrueiI I think I have the 808 and as I recall it has a 3 wire cord. Don't recall much choice at the time in the price range. Looks like the 301 is the descendent.
Good 👍 practice, definitely, although the eBay seller would have already let the smoke out with the reported “powers on and tubes light up”. I used to use the variac on the swap meet finds that had been stored for years. Thanks!
Thinking of wiring up a 12 volt transformer as an auto-transformer to drop the 112 VAC to 100 VAC. I think I have one in the junk box. What do you think?
Question for you were you able to find a schematic for the hb1b when you were working on it? I was gifted one that the display doesn't have information on the display but if i hold it just right i can see the memory Chanel numbers and they change when i turn the vfo. Maybe a bad display or just back light to bright idk. Thanks Jeff
I was able to find the schematic online again. This github repo has a lot or other cool ham radio info too. github.com/LZ1DPN/OTHERschematic/blob/master/HB-1B%20schema.pdf
That was my very first shortwave radio from 64-66 until I got my license and a SX-99 for a receiver. That one looks to be in good condition although I'm sure the caps need replacing.
Very cool - did you ever make a contact using the S38? There is an SX-99 on eBay right now for $120 lots of features! CW mode with variable pitch, xtal filter with broad and sharp modes and a giant S-Meter! I have a bit of hum but not bad. I got a call from a friend with some dial cord and I got that tuning shaft un-stuck and lubricated! Need to debug the BFO first. 73, Bruce
