Introduced to needle and thread by my mother at age four with many people influencing me in upholstery, arts, craftsmanship and education. Over 50 years later these are the knots I'm tying.
I live in Louisiana and I have been having a heck of a time finding a vendor that carries the 13-15 gauge springs for the backs. Do you know of a source in the states to get these? I have ordered some from England but prefer not to do that often. Thank you in advance!
@@Buckminsterupholstery honestly that's amazing. Even if the odor was different I imagined it smelling natural as opposed to oppressively chemical. I'm completely here for it! I have a some furniture I inherited from I'm guessing the 1930-40s. It's my goal now to bring these to you to restore.
@@Buckminsterupholstery Thank you for your kind reply. I guess it is about the Italian ruby twine. It happens that in my country there is no such twine and I have to buy it in USA and import it through Amazon, as it is an expensive item until it arrives in my country, I needed to know the quantity.
I have noticed that some cut the webbing before the spline is put in and some cut the webbing after the spine is put in is there any real advantage one way or another or things that I’m just missing.? Some use Elmers glue and some use hide glue?
I can't see how cutting the webbing to size first would work too well. Short ends of the weave would slip off in the curves, or a long strand along the straight edge. Sounds very risky to me. Carpenter's (Elmer's) glue and hide glue don't bond to each other. Hide glue softens/cleans easier with water. In cases of antique furniture, hide glue will re-bond to the original hide glue and it will be more friendly if the cane is replaced again down the road.
@@Buckminsterupholstery sorry didn’t mean to cut it before hammer the weave into the groove. After pushed into grove and before the spline is inserted cut off the outer weave that will be removed.
@@Buckminsterupholstery after the wedding has been fitted to the chair before the spline is hammered into place. Some people cut the excess material off with a chisel, then glue and hammer the spline into place. Sometimes I’ve seen where they cut the excess webbing off after the spline has been hammered into place. Is one superior to the other or just preference
Probably a matter of preference. I can see where pressing the webbing into the groove first would also work fine. I think pressing the spline in as I go around helps keep the webbing in place.
I do enjoy your videos….I have a small chair and you have provided excellent instructions…..now I looking for the courage to try. Never have I any experience. But a small chair and I just want to try….thank you
Can you explain why you coated the cane in Tung Oil please? I am in the UK and hand weave cane for a living. Split rattan needs to breath and have the ability to absorb moisture which it can't do if coated in oils or varnish. However, even though I've been caning for 40 years, I am watching your video because I've never done pressed cane before so I'm wondering if the tung oil has a purpose?
I used tung oil to enhance the color. I had never heard not to use finishes. I differ with you on this. Lots of manufactured furniture has a finish going back 100+ years. Lots of present-day furniture has a tinted lacquer finish. Wicker furniture has a finish, some painted.
HI Kim, I am in British Columbia Canada, and would love to know how you create a seat cushion cover, but also where you get the plastic wrap you purchase for inserting the cushion once wrapped with Dacron into the slip cover
Greetings from the middle of America. The plastic is called silk film, sold by upholstery supply companies. Light-weight painter's plastic drop-cloths would probably work. Contact me via my website for more information.
