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I don't understand the throttle on these things. I can press the gas pedal just enough for the starter/generator to kick in and it will slowly rev all the way to full throttle. Considering replacing the whole drivetrain with something more suitable because it has almost no low-end power.
Same question for me. Probe on positive out of battery pack and negative probe on my meter on M- showed .07 but with the petal all the way down only 2.2 volts. The solenoid engages in the cart feels like it wants to move, but won’t. Is this a bad controller? Sailboatshawn - what did you find was wrong with yours?
Tested from A post to the outside housing & got a beep. Im guessing this means that the motor is no good? Or just brushes? Any advise would be helpful. Thanks
I have a ezgo txt that keeps on ideling when I stop. Then its burns a fuse next to the battery. If you turning the key to the off position it doesnt turn off. It will idle till it turns itself of, but wont start again. I you leave it for half hour it runs again.
These are a call to order as it depends on what all you want or need. Crystal is our expert on these - 276.632.8905 - Here is the link > www.mygolfcartshop.com/p-15-series-to-solid-state-conversion-kit-for-ezgo-by-my-golf-cart-shop.aspx
Jason, what wire is that diode on? Where does the wire go to and from? I have looked where you said the diode is (by the wall) and found nothing. My cart is a 2015 Presidence gas powered cart and has the exact fault that you are describing. Plse help me out.
We have only found a couple of these, both in different places so you have to follow your main wire from the solenoid back? Wish we could be more direct or to the point of where it is?
You should do a full youtube video on doing this drive clutch spring and the rear driven clutch spring from start to finish. Your views would be so high. I know i would watch it a few times haha.
Is it true on the 2000 ezgo txt gas with the robin engine. Doesn't the primary drive clutch removal tool also fit the driven rear clutch to be able to remove that clutch as well?
After removing the rear driven clutch bolt and soaking the inside of that area with pb blaster I put the bolt back in and let it spin in neutral. The next day I removed the bolt and used a flat head prybar on the back side of the driven clutch and transmission housing near the output shaft gave it a little pop forward and it literally slides rite off.
We have only found a couple of these, both in different places so you have to follow your main wire from the solenoid back? Wish we could be more direct or to the point of where it is?
Good job Boss, you fixed the cart. However, for future reference: you SHOULD have continuity between A1 and A2 on a series wound motor. There should be continuity between A1 & A2, and between S1 & S2 (F1 & F2 on a regen motor). You should have no continuity from A1 to the motor body, or S1(F1) to the motor body, or between A1 and S1 (F1).
Thanks for your comment and you're right as we got those results after we removed the motor. We didn't do a good job on explaining this one but did hit some key things to check before the motor. We have another or a couple motor check ones on the channel. Stay tuned as we have more on this cart coming out next...Conversion install. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Very detailed, question, cart does not move in “F” the solenoid clicks but no forward motion, however reverse works perfectly. Thanks for your input, subscribed 👍
Well already got a new pedal, it came with a note warning not to install until you check the diode. There is a diode test on your multi meter, do a search it is pretty simple, only allows energy to go one way (justin miller) youtube. This particular cart, the solenoid does click, but wont do anything until after fooling around with the pedal. then it may be ok for a day or till you go to start it again. Had a voltage regulator issue a while back, then this started. dont know if that is related to my issue or not. Hope my diode is where everyone else's is in the other harness. don't look forward to tearing it all apart. Excellent content, wish I had pics of where the diode is exactly
You’re absolutely right and I was like I double check and do this and it finally got all the power to my motor. I was only getting 26.7v and now I’m getting full power!
I just replaced my receptacle on my ezgo cart. I have 6 new batteries and a new charging. The receptacle was identical to the one I had and my beautifully chargered but my cart now is not getting any power. I have checked all connections and verified that it is connected like my old one. What now can be wrong??? I am at my wits end.
I have a 2006 Western Ezgo 42 Volt golf cart that quick moving and after spending $2000 on batteries, $600 on rebuolt controller, and three forward/backward switches, I am ready to roll this cart off a cliff!! How much, ball park, would it be to convert a 42 volt high output system to a 48 volt system? Cant find 42 volt high out parts anymore
The 42 volt systems are very rare, I would certainly look into at least a push button F&R switch to start and possibly going ahead to the more common 48 volt system? Let us know if we can help. 276.632.8905
I have a Club Car DS I’m looking to replace the steering wheel on. What’s more common for an aftermarket replacement a 12.5” or 13.5”? Trying to not have to order one of each.
Great content Jason! I have a 2015 precedent that runs on maintenance but not on operate. I’m thinking it’s the shifter micro switches that are bad. Any advice in the right direction would be greatly appreciated! Keep up the good work!!!
So if you don't have battery pack voltage on the main lugs of the forward/reverse switch, does that mean it is bad? I have it on the bottom lug but very little on the other three.
You should have battery pack voltage at all 4 lugs so, if you don't it could be a bad F&R Switch? I would not get one off Amazon as we've seen a lot of those not good? - Use Code For 15% off - CSTV15 www.mygolfcartshop.com/c-244-forward-and-reverse-parts.aspx
I’ve taken wheels off to see the spines on both sides and they both look good cart. When I took off the wheels, there was grease all over in the castle bolt. Won’t move going forward or in reversed. Can you help me with troubleshooting?
Most times the axles do look fine. The Hubs are designed to wear out so I would look close at those. Can take them both off and press the gas pedal to see if the axles turn?
@@cartsmarttv the axle turns but slow. I took the spine rod out and one side was wet and the other dry. But once I had it out and put back there was oil throughout both sides. Is this normal?
