Black and white movie film, 8mm and 16mm, developing, reversing, toning, and printing is what I have been doing for a while now. Also on Facebook m.facebook.com/profile.php/?id=61550960594311 And now, Oil Painting!
You can cross process reversal. I'll let you know how this next batch turns out, Michael. So far, so good. One roll test at 125 ASA produced very good results. Expired date on foil pack was 3/94.
25mm is not good for sound syncing selfies. I have to be farther away. Time is so short to run into position, clap, talk, clap... A wider lens is needed, one that focuses.
You need to chase down where that scratch came from. Load a piece of unused film, just a few feet and then examine both base and emulsion. The black line is a base scratch, those can be filled in easily. The white scratches are emulsion and more difficult to fix.
Thrilled to see how the tests with FPP double perf film performs. What ISO did you acquire? I think the efficiency of process in your workflow hands on method is cool. Must see the uhler operates to the newly shot magazine method.
Great processing video! I was wondering about the ratios on using Fomadon LQR in processing R100. The Foma R100 kit they offer has a different dilution and different times (10-12 min.) for first developer.
After this a roll from the five mag pack I bought was shot. Reports are on my Facebook page. Numbers are backwards, mags have tape on them. Indoors you need to use the accessory focus finder, and or a tape measure
The next day that camera was dead. Didn't run. That high speed it was operated at killed it. Best stick to slower speeds from now on. I got it running again but it clicked loudly repeatedly, the shutter stayed open. Trash. I saved the lens though
Here is a link to The Woodland Escape where a flintlock mechanism is fine tuned. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RaHonDwYmiI.htmlsi=tXZTMHeRoYEezrb0
There is a lot to learn what to do in order to load film in the dark into these magazines. Like how to install those silver "keeper" pins, and how to put film behind the sprocket wheel. Not lose those and the screws in the dark. Just fitting the screw driver into the slot is difficult... Working on it ...
Hi Michael... This is one of the best videos you have made and I have watched probably all of them. I have my dads old 8mm camera and it takes a Kodak magazine. I have bought maybe 4 or 5 Kodak 8mm magazines (mostly from ebay) and have them here. One day, I will crack one open and I suspect I will find dead film. I will have to see how my 8mm Kodak magazine compare to your 16mm magazines. Thanks so much for this video. We have both come a long ways since we first connected with Auricn stuff maybe, what? 12 or more years ago? What was that guys name that you bought Auricon equipment from? I also bought stuff from him after you did. I believe you made a video of you and him going over the equipment you bought? Anyway, thanks for the great post. Jack Honeycutt, moderator, Auricon Optical Sound Users Group.
Awesome. That big camera scared me. I got it to work and made some sound films, but the thought of actually shooting 400 feet and having it processed at a lab broke my bank in my head, let alone doing 1200 feet!!!! But I should have. My regrets are ever with me. Oh well. 50 foot tests will have to do for now Keep it going Jack. It was good to hear from you.
@@MichaelCarter I hear 'ya on threading that thing! Yea, Bil Zody. I have not spoken to him in maybe 12/14 years. Do you still have any contact information for him? I would like to say Hi..
I just finished a film short at 16 minutes utilizing 7231 loaded by Alan Gordon for NOAA and expired 3-94. I started the film in 1994 and purchased the film from Rick at Java Cycles both in '94 and recently in 2024 to finish. The film was frozen this entire time and aside from a slight cosmic ray exposure lending a very light grey cast, it was still very usable. The Bell and Howell 16 mag camera used in '94 and '24 ran flawlessly. It's true what they say about these magazines. They are very stable and rock solid. I suspect the film loop path and a pin on the pressure plate has a lot to do with it, plus the magazine itself is just barely wider than the film eliminating rock associated with poor loop sets. The some 85 yo design is simply amazing.
Hi, thanks for commenting. It is good to read how you used the same film I have from of old. It'll be interesting to determine proper exposures and developing times.
Hello, Mr. Carter. I sent the film to Spectra Labs in Los Angeles. Doug was quite helpful and while I was initially going to process as negative, he convinced me to cross process reversal. The film is going to be projected and, let's face it, nobody is printing. They are taking it straight to digital. So, I found the box speed + one full stop for reversal to be on target. It was 80 ASA as negative stock. I shot the film at 160 ASA for reversal. Like I said, it had 30 years of exposure to cosmic radiation sitting in Rick's freezer but it managed a very usable image. Hope that puts you in the ballpark. Yeah, I noticed the blue Alan Gordon boxes and assume they are the same ones I purchased from Rick at Java in Athens, GA.
Those were done in 8mm and in 16 using a Cine Kodak Special. Bolex SF is more difficult as the plunger sticks, unless as someone said, you have to have the camera fully wound up. A single frame motor would be required to use.
I always use distilled water. I heat my water to 150F then add my Sodium Sulfite and stir to dissolve. When that is dissolved I add my Lye Crystals. I have my first batch with 30 pills of pain reliever (tyl) My second batch I made with 40 pills. I strained both after they were mixed very well with a paper towel with gloves of course. Someone else says they use a very restrictive metal strainer coffee filter
Still there. The copy video ? who knows where that is anymore. I only just learned how to screen capture with a PC. That older capture had to be done on the Mac, which self destructed.
Cine Kodak Model BB cameras use 50 foot spools of 16mm film, not 100 foot, they do not fit in a BB camera, only 50 foot 16mm film spools fit, and that is what the UPB-1A Lomo spirals hold.
i have exactly the same camera as you have. it was a lucky find from the dumpster. it also have an original kodak autographic film that has already been exposed, but i think it's already too messed up to develop. my only problem with my camera is that the bellows are not in good shape, so i'm thinking of a way to fix it
Hello Michael, I read all kinds of reviews on this machine. Everything from “The image is terrible, so don’t buy it” to “this thing is great, everyone should own one” so, you are someone I highly respect. So what are your thoughts on this unit. Is the final image good? At the end of the day, that’s the important part for me.
Funny you say, I just got my hands on a Cine-Kodak Model K and I order the manual booklet. But you are right about the panning like crazy and I just move on to the next one. I just wish people slow down and take their time on shots. It's okay to have a 10-15 second shot. Oh well. Thanks for sharing.
After a short period of use, my Kodak failed. However, I managed to make some observations. 1. In general, the device provides good scanning quality. 2. I also wanted to compare the two scanning options. I have films digitized with a high-end Muller Data Framescanner video camera and scanner. At first glance, Kodak loses slightly to him in quality, and obviously wins from the artisanal method. 3. Unfortunately, Kodak does not provide the ability to adjust contrast. In my opinion, it is better to scan with low contrast, and then, if necessary, make adjustments in the video editor. 4. Kodak makes some automatic adjustments to brightness and white balance. This can be noticed if you switch the 8mm/super mode after turning on the device in frame adjustment mode.
4. Kodak makes some automatic adjustments to brightness and white balance. This can be noticed if you switch the 8mm/super mode after turning on the device in frame adjustment mode. There will be colorization on the black-and-white film at first, but after switching it will disappear. Therefore, after turning on the scanner, I switch the 8mm/super mode. 5. The warning about checking the correct mode before starting is just a warning. You don't have to do this. 6. There is no rewind. When you turn on rewind, you are simply offered to swap the coils, after which the fast forward is turned on.
7. I try to work with fabric gloves 8. Before scanning, I rewind the film and wipe it with a soft wet cloth at the same time 9. It is more convenient to insert the film with the right edge than in the middle of the film. Yes, I also keep a flashlight in my mouth ;). 10. During switching on, the device produces tension of the film. It is better if the film was refilled at this time, otherwise it may be damaged.
11. It is a good idea to use special software for post-processing, for example, Topaz video AI. It allows you to significantly increase the quality of the material, for example, increase the frame rate and reduce grain. I don't see any point in increasing the frame resolution, but other parameters can be improved. However, this requires significant computing power and a lot of processing time.
12.I noticed a slight blur on the right side of the screen. Perhaps because the film is not completely flat and not fully in focus. Have you noticed something like this?
