The most important thing in this life is to believe in Christ, and that he died for our sins. I also enjoy talking about the bible, reloading, hunting, shooting, world events, preparedness and grilling/food. Warning: Do not replicate any reloading data without properly working up your own reloads.
@@heavyleadenthuasist38 - Great! I have the same type and barrel length revolver. Those are very impressive velocities and I plane to load some 38/44 Heavy Duty loads after seeing this.
You keep showing Alliant powders, why? Alliant has abandoned us. They don't care about private citizens, only the big manufacturers & government contracts!
I believe a 350 legend is a .355 bullet just like a 9mm whereas a 357 is a .358 bullet. You'll want to watch your pressures. Once they are resized they are no longer .358 bullets. You can shoot .358 bullets from your 35 Whelen without resizing.
Some .350 legends are bored for .355 some for .357, .358 should be the size for cast lead bullets. If you buy a rifle check your bore, and buy, or reload for that size bore.
Very nice video. I did some playing with the 350 legend a few years ago. I got it working good with cast bullets. If RU-vid has not taken them down I did some videos when I was doing it.
My best accuracy load was for 350L was 125gr XTP .357. With 26gr of Enforcer. 2425fps. Chamber checker is a must,larger bullet can open case mouth if it doesn't seat correctly. .356 seems to be the sweet spot. 9mm(.355) velocities and accuracy were more variable.
@@mikesauer7775 I would agree .355 is more variable. Also your brand of brass is pretty important with chambering various bullet types. The channel PC bullet empire posted a good video explaining it. I use a Lyman chamber checker for 350L.
Okay so you need to make sure the your case is trimmed properly. Do you have a bore scope if not you can do a chamber case. You don’t want the case getting jammed into where the mouth of the case goes. Gotta remember the 350 legend head spaces off the case mouth just like a 9mm. If i were you I wouldn’t role crimp like a 357 I would be taper crimping my ammo. As for measuring your groups just open or put you calipers on the projectile your shooting (.357) then zero the calipers. And measure from edge to edge gives you the exact measurement your looking for.
I’m aware of everything you just mentioned. I measure groups at center to farthest center currently a lot of people disagree on the proper method. My reloads are also not crimped in the groove I simply just tried 5 of them for testing purposes. I explain in the video my current ones have the case mouth above the groove.
@@heavyleadenthuasist38 right on 350 legend is a very fickle cartridge it can a will ruin a guys day if your not reloading it properly. With that said people get wrapped around the axel about 350 legend too much. As long as your following the rules you will be fine sammi allows for I believe 3 thousands + or - in diameter. So you can size all the way up to .358 without issue.
The Lyman MSR 350 legend set is in my opinion the best full set on the market. Comes with everything you need to reload cast and jacketed. If I remember correctly it’s a 5 die set plus the case gauge.
My .38 Colt rounds are loaded like ones for the original 1871 Navy conversion. A 124 grain .375" lead heel bullet and 8 to 10 gains (volume) of FFFg Gunpowder. More fun, more smoke like Colt intended.
Have you tried this vs silhouette? The data is very close between both but on some cartridges it seems like they swap burn rates. On most of them it seems like TB should be faster burning than silhouette but other times it’s opposite.
I push these same Lee 310s through a 7 1/2" srh without gas checks around 1100 - 1250 fps depending on powder choice. I seat to 1.690" and size these to .429" as they are extremly long and start obturating the cylinder just from loading if i size to .430" or bigger. This is the same issue you have mentioned in the video with having to seat your bullets deeper. They do great with accuracy and no leading as I powder coat them as well.
I have used a lot of powder coated bullets and never thought to check this. I don't think the powder touching the base of the bullets and degrading the coating will effect the performance of the bullet to prevent leading. It would be interesting to see what the effect of the coating on degrading the powder in a loaded cartridge would be. I have some 9mm powder coated bullets loaded with titegroup that i will pull and check the bullet bases on.
The .38/44 was pretty regularly shot through Colt Army Special/Official Police and Smith N frame guns back in the day. .38 Special I’m general was way hotter back then than commercial loadings today.
I’ve heard conflicting reports on that. I’ve been told the official police and new service were both advertised as being capable of handling the 38/44 but I’ve also heard people saying that colt only advertised the New Service as being capable of handling it. The new service makes sense to me but the official police I’m still unsold on.
Good video. I cast and powder coat my own bullets also. I cast them out of scrap lead and after casting and coating I water quench them and they end up quite hard. I have a 20" Stainless Rossi M92 in 44 magnum. I load H110, Enforcer and 2400 under a 200gr or 240gr Lee SWC and I have pushed them over 1700fps without a gas check with no leading. In fact besides there being no smoke from greasy lubes I have never seen any leading since I started powder coating over 5 years ago in any of my handguns or pistol caliber rifles and I push them hard. As for the Hornady dies and the Zip spindle you need to tighten the decapper up with a wrench or it will slip. Also when developing a load for a handgun bullet I never pay any attention to cartridge overall length or maximum charge. I start with a mid load and crimp the bullet into the crimping groove, that's the way it is designed and why the groove is there. The bores in a cylinder are stepped or tapered so the bullet will seal the chamber and build pressure and enter the forcing cone where it gets sized down again slightly to seal and engauge the barrel rifling. I work up to a max load using a simple chronograph and stop when I believe a max load is reached looking for pressure signs and then back off a couple tenths, rarely do I reach the powder charges listed, that little extra FPS IMHO isn't worth it. There are just to many variable's to take a load manual at face value, that's how firearms get destroyed. Please don't compare powders by burn rate, there is no correlation to the pressure curve of the burning powder to the actual speed of the burn, it can get tricky. One thing I do is before I drop a round into a ammo box is I drop it into a chamber checker. I have found bulged cases and off center bullets that would have prevented proper chambering or chambering at all. Easier to find out at the bench than in the field, more accurate too.
I think the issue or problem with lee dies is the inconsistency. One person gets a die or die set that’s manufactured properly but the next person gets a die or set that’s poorly manufactured. So I think that’s were all the different opinions come from.
What about putting a gas check on the base of the bullet where it would touch the powder in the shell case ??? That would stop any possible contact with the powder.
Long story but I will try to shorten it. I put the bullets in a Tupperware container and swirl it around vigorously in the powder coat. After, I dump the bullets in a wire strainer that is sitting over a piece of cardboard. I dump the excess powder coat into its original bag. Then I take some parchment paper and put it on a oven tray and I proceed to put as many bullets as I can in it. I stand them on their bases because it looks better than just piling them in. I bake them at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 minutes. (I tried 20 minutes at 400 degrees but the parchment paper burns on the bases and the temperature could be off too it’s just a cheap toaster oven). After baking I throw them into ice water for cooling and hardening. Then I test one using the smash test to make sure the coating is durable.
you should check the temp on the oven with a thermometer . my oven is 50 degrees off from the dial setting . if you haven't already @@heavyleadenthuasist38
Thank you for the content, and pointing out an alternative to the H110. In my overall experience, all Winchester factory ammo for the past 3 years has been very sooty/dirty. Additionally, there are so few factory ammo offerings for 350 Legend that I've become interested in loading my own also. I'm also referencing Shooters Reference online, and I'm betting the powder that Winchester has loaded in it's factory ammo is w296 - 22.0gr - 24.0gr with the power point projectile. w296 might be a powder to avoid unless you have no alternative.
Wow ,I admire your patience. I got into loading with the dillon xl750 . It is amazingly efficient and consistent although expensive to gear up. Seperate tool heads for each caliber make for quick changes . Luvin 350 legend, hard hitting round for ar15 , 20 round mags feed flawlessly... Cheers
In order for me to reload for my 38 S&W I have to buy 38 SPL and cut them down because the 38 S&W casings are more than double the price, that is assuming I can even find them! And as for FPS, energy and lethality, plenty of hardened men have been put down permanently with 600 - 800 FPS black powder ball rounds through the years, and that's nothing to sneeze at.
i bought a very large box of starline brass (was 500 or 1000 pieces of brass) .38 S&W for about $300 pre covid.still have maybe 80% of them unfired. just started using them again because pistol primers are becoming available again
Question,,, hoping someone out there can tell me.? Father in law passed away. He was an avid trap shooter. So I acquired 2 unopened KEGS of RED DOT. Years back, I found a reloading recipe booklet for red dot powder, and it gave recipes for hundreds of different calibers with a variety of bullets that COULD BE used. & that was way before these straight wall cartridges came around. I've searched & searched,,,, & I can't find any updated red dot recipe loads,,,, I'm hoping that I just might find some decent, SAFE loads listed for these Ohio straight walled cartridges. I've been reloading .44 mag with this red dot,,, It's kinda dirty, but bullets hit the plate at 50yds. That's good enough for me. lol,,, I'm just trying to use up all of this powder!! ;>) Anyone have any helpful info,,, are there any reloading possibilities using red dot for .350??
Great question! You probably could use red dot in 350 but I would feel really uncomfortable doing it because of how fast burning red dot is and possible low case capacity. I have read about people using unique in 350 legend but in my opinion that is really pushing it too. The 350 legend works better with magnum powders or fast burning rifle powders. If you are wondering about other uses for red dot you can use it just about any handgun caliber and it is considered a bulky flake powder so I think red dot would work well in calibers like 38 special and 44 special.
Yes, on the .38 & .44 with red dot. I've been using it for 10-12 years now. Seems to be OK. Like I always say, a good 50 yd paper plate group is all I need! Thanks.@@heavyleadenthuasist38
Sharing some info if you want to really use that 350 on deer or an accurate plinker. I use Lil'gun and 165 gr flextips moly coated . I have a Franchi with a 23 1/4 inch barrel. Used Starline brass. I treat my reload cases 😢like a bottleneck and only size the neck down to the base of the bullet with a 38spl small base die. I get 2500+ fps. 1 inch groups at 200 yards. I dont have to use an expander. I size my brass for .003 beck tension. In a bolt rifle there is no need to crimp. Pay attention to your case length because it headspaces on the case mouth. My chamber is exact to SAAMI specs at 1.710. I have virtually no length expansion so i keep them at 1.705 i seat the bullets .040 off the lands and that is where it likes them. I could go closer and did loads starting at .010 off the lands and mosed back. I used these powders, H110, W296, AA5744, AA1680, IMR4227, and Lil'gun. With that short barrel you are not going to have listed velocities on the box. Winchesters 180gr gained 75fps in my rifle. It took me 150 rounds of testing to get what i acheived. For that short of a barrel I would try Ramshot Enforcer with a 147gr bullet. IMR4227 gave the best SDs at 7 fps. There is not enough case capacity for IMR4227 to get what i consider decent velocites in a short barrel but may give a good group. Good luck.
Thanks for the information! The main reason I used Imr 4227 is because it’s a tubular/stick powder. That type of propellant typically fares better in temperature variations and I live in Iowa where it can be 90 degrees and humid in the summer and about -25 degrees in the winter. I wanted something I can use year round if I have to. 4227 also has very good case fill in the 350 legend. I do have H110 but I don’t have any of the other powders you mentioned.
Berrys makes a plated 180gr fp that works well. I always had that sooty brass issue in 9mm when I was using Bullseye. I switched to Unique and haven't had an issue. I'll save the Bullseye for .45 ACP
Yeah i just try to use the most compatible powders for a cartridge. So for 800x (big wafer) powder, I’ve used it in 10 mm, 40 s&w, 357 mag, and 44 mag. Bullseye is a great powder for accurate plinking loads but it can be downright disgusting if it’s loaded light.
I put together a P80 in 10mm but I've only tried plated Berry's bullets as far as reloads go. I do have some bullets I cast years ago for .40 cal that I can try in the 10mm, I think it's this same Lee 175gr mold. I think I'll start w/ Longshot. That worked well w/ the Berry's plated bullets. For factory ammo, S&B 180gr can be had for decent prices. Grafs dealer price is 19.89 for 50 so probably 25 or so at a store. Always good to have a few boxes around in case you wanna shoot it that day but don't have any ammo loaded up.
I never though of this. I have some powder coated rifle loads I loaded up well over 5 years ago, I may pull a couple and see how they look, especially the ones I stored bullet-down. I've never had a squib or fail to fire on any of my powder coated loads, even ones that were several years old but that's as much as I know. My cast rifle loads will all be 2400 or Reloader 7 w/ Ford light blue or Harbor freight red. I may have some old 9mm loaded up w/ Bullseye and Unique I can check. I wonder if being sealed in a perfectly airtight cartridge makes a difference, those pill storage things aren't air tight. EDIT: I just remembered my "failed reloads to pull" tub I put anything I don't trust in so I can pull them all someday. There's way more in there than I would care to admit. That'll be a perfect way to check this, some of those will be over 8 years old, thats around when I started powder coating I think.
Thanks for watching! Yeah it’s not something most people think about, but I think it’s good to make sure you aren’t causing issues with the powder coat.
Yeah, within the past 3 years or so, there have been several guys in the casting community doing experiments with different powder coats and different smokeless powders to see which ones don't play nice together. Glad to see more data on it! No such thing as too much data
@@joearledge1 I pulled down a bunch of old loads w/ these coats: HF red, Eastwood FLB, Eastwood lime green, Powderbythepound Super durable black, and these gun powders: Unique, W231, 2400, Bullseye and I did not see any issues w/ the powder or the powder coat that would make me worry. Some of these were up to 8 years old. The bottom of one 6.5 bullet w/ the Eastwood Lime Green and 2400 was darkened, but only the very base, not the sides that were under the case mouth. None of the powder coats were sticky or coming loose, none scratched any easier than coated bullets that hadn't been loaded yet. I have shot most of these loads even after years of sitting loaded and haven't had any issues. I might make a video eventually where I show them being pulled down once my Hornady collet bullet puller comes in.
@@Toolness1 sounds great! Not sure what roll it plays in your findings, but how they're stored matters. Tip down, tip up, or on the side. From what I've gathered, it's only when the power is in direct contact with the powder coat. Though, fumes from some powder may strip powder coating 🤷♂️. Either way, storing them tip up, may be a solution if you ever do find that you're favorite powder reacts with powder coat. Definitely glad yours were all good though.
Really? What full length resizing die are you using? I'm just about ready to start reloading up a batch for the first time & was curious to know if I need a case expander die or not, to start the bullet. & I didn't see anything mentioned about the bullet OD that he was using.? Stephen,, what size bullet are you using?
@@jdoboy6835you should use the expander. The OP is handing out bad advice. If you don't expand you will shave off some copper or lead if you are loading lead and sometimes the bullet will catch the case mouth and just rip it down when you try to seat the bullet and fold down and tear the case like a curtain. Just taking the time to debur the inside of the case neck and expanding will eliminate the possibility of getting copper shavings off the bullet and other issues. Can you get away with not using the expander? In some instances yes. I've had good luck not expanding 223 and 308 when using boat tail bullets but that is kind of self explanatory. For the most accurate loads and to prevent issues it's just best to do all the steps.
Thanks! Yeah I think you will like 4227 in 350 legend. I think it will be a lot more temperature stable than some other mag powders. Last thing I want is hand loads at safe pressure in the winter, but over pressure in the summer.
