Hey mushroom fam! Putting this channel together for anyone interested in getting into mycology. Research on the subject will have you all over the place and with so many different teks and techniques it can be intimidating to a newbie. I'm hoping to make it easier on some of you that are interested in trying it out, but unsure about the process. Hope it helps, like and subscribe, for all my how to and educational videos, Agar and Liquid Culture recipes! Happy Growing!!🍄 [ for dung loving gourmet mushrooms + microscopic purposes only!!! Not condoning any illegal activity 😉]
As that could work I suppose, your mouth is full of contamination and would be afraid of that causing problems potentially.... I would not suggest that myself.
Karo is corn syrup yes, sorry I didn't specify in the video. Not sure it works better, it's really just what you prefer to use honestly. I've tried honey and preferred corn syrup for the clarity of the finished product.
Primordia are the actual pins sets of albino strains. The little white balls are what turn into the mushrooms rather than regular pins. Depends on the strain. Albino strains produce Primordia, non albino strains just produce pins ( basically just little baby mushrooms ).
It's the simplest way to spawn to a tub, with no unnecessary steps. Fruiting Conditions = introducing 24/7 light>ing + more fresh air exchange. If your grain is fully colonized, it's ready for fruiting basically. Alot of videos you see mention to cover your fae holes for the first week when spawning to a tub, I have found that to be an unnecessary step and prolongs the process. Try to keep it as simple as possible and putting your tub directly into fruiting conditions is the easiest and best way in my opinion and works just fine.
Yo, heeeellpp meeee haha Yo, Blaino - I commented on did video n u actually responded. Thx, brother. I don’t have FB nor am I interested in putting that surveillance in my life lol, but not lol How can I support you ?? ✌️
Respond to every comment as quickly as possible. 317-417-2932 is my personal number. As mentioned getting a telegram set up so I can have that going. Just send me a text and will shoot you my genetics menu.
I appreciate the positive feedback! Look me up on Facebook and send me a message for my genetics list! Trying to figure out a way to incorporate somthing into my channel. Need to get a website up and going it sounds like, alot of people been asking the same question lol. But greatly appreciate it and will work on getting a website up for everyone or a telegram etc. I'll keep you posted. But in the meantime Myco BlaineO on facebook and just shoot me a PM.
@@Myco_BlaineO_ thx for the response ! Ok, so here’s my deal…I’m sure we have all heard this line before-I don’t ever (mainly,) comment on RU-vid videos. That said, I don’t have FB, nor will I ever. No judgment, that’s just me. I will say this tho, I’ve pretty adopted your, simple, easy and stress free style. And obviously it works. Keep on keeping on ! If u have discord, or anything of the like-plz let me know. I’ve only done discord once with ‘myco geeky’ n I wasn’t impressed. Seemed like his followers were a bunch of snowflakes n I got blocked by peeps lolol Best, Deej
FOR ANYONE REALLY WANTING TO KNOW IF YOU HAVE CONTAM. MAKE YOUR OWN AGAR DISHES AND TEST IT. ALL THESE VIDS ARE FALSE INFO. IF IT IS BECAUSE YOU ARE NOT PATIENT, THEN KNOW YOU ARE WASTING MORE TIME THROWING AWAY GOOD LC INSTEAD OF JUS WAITING FEW DAYS TESTING IT. TAKES ME FEW HOURS TO MAKE 100 AGAR DISHES WITH STANDARD CROCKPOT. COST FOR SUPPLIES IS UNDER $20 ASSUMING YOU HAVE REST OF MATS (WHICH YOU SHOULD IF YOU MAKING LC) NO EXCUSE, KEEP IT SIMPLE. THE ANSWER IS -<TEST ON AGAR>-
This video is for what you typically see if your LC is contaminated. Yes you should test on agar, but when innoculating with clean agar to begin with, your lc should come out clean, but hey, stuff happens. If it turns out looking like dirty pond water, there's no need to test on agar because that usually means contamination. Shouldn't look dirty, should be clear. That's what your looking for. Appreciate your input tho.....
I've had all types of lc on agar. Some of my most beautiful plates came from brown sugary mycelium. I've even used lc with clumps of debris, it was eating. Healthy as can be. Looked like a complete mess NOT CLEAR WHATSOEVER. Turned out great. If you wanna go by smells......cool. I guess If you wanna open the jar every 3 days and smell jus to contaminate it. But ALOT OF PEOPLE NEED TO KNOW WHAT IS IN THEIR JAR TO TRULY KNOW THE CONTAM LIMITS OF THEIR SPECIFIC LAB AND GROWING ENVIROMENTS. Best way to do this is experiment and test on agar. Not opinion, just evolution of our mycology methods.
I have a spare cup of distilled water out in the open that i've been meaning to throw out. will hydrogen peroxide sterilize it? Just for misting atleast.
It potentially could, but I would suggest if been sitting out in the open to not take chances. Could potentially ruin a whole tub if used. With mycology, it's best to not take a gamble like that Or could lead to disappointment and tub loss. You could boil it for a few minutes, then add Peroxide to ensure it is contam free. That's the route I would go at least. Hope this helps.
I heard that keeping the temp below 72-73 ( temp in the tub will be about 3 degrees warmer) can reduce contamination risk, as bac n mold likes the warmer temps. Whats your opinion on that? My field cap on one of my tubs was a bit on the higer side, i just started the tub 2 days ago, and im trying to find out why its not building moisture on the all sides of the tub, i have 2 layers of m.pore too, its a small tent and i have a tiny HEPA in it, i turned down the speed thinking it was that so we will see. The small tubs with no fae holes are building moisture fine and the field capacity was lower on those even, i thought it would build moisture being as it was wetter, there may not be enough substrate in the tub as well, i was in a hurry, erg. Live n learn, i appreciate the channel
Mist down the sides and lid of the tub not building moisture on the sides. That's where the moisture comes on sides and lid of tub. If your field capacity is right then shouldn't have to mist sides and lid again until after first flush is harvested. No set level on how thick substrate should be, just as long as you have a substrate layer, grains in the middle, cover grains with a very thin casing layer but fully cover grains you will be just fine. Hope this helps. Appreciate the positive feedback.
To your temperature question, my grow room fluctuates quite often. I try to keep it anywhere from 72- 76° in the summertime and it gets a little warmer in there during the winter about 74-78°. Yes keeping your grow room/area at 72-75° is what's suggested for cubes, but not completely necessary. Lower temps will help stop contam to a point, but will also slow down growing in the process. In my experience if your tub is contaminated, it doesn't matter what the temps are. If your tub is fine, anywhere from 72°- 78° won't hurt it a bit. But don't want it any warmer than 78° if you can help it.
@@Myco_BlaineO_ awesome, thank you! Right my field capacity was a little bit on the wetter side because I live in the Mohave desert. As you can imagine it is very very dry here, and temps can get up to 125-128 in the summer. I am misting, I just shouldn't have to, and I don't want more risk of contam than necessary. I think in my climate I need smaller FAE holes and do something like you did, that's a great idea btw. I have them covered with 2 layers of m. P. Tape till colonized, then I'll take a layer off for fruits, this is more of a learning experience than I expected, but I like it.
@SocialDeviant_ I would suggest smaller fae holes for better keeping humidity in tub a little better. No need to take any tape off either. I send mine straight into fruiting conditions when I spawn to a tub. When researching you'll get you need to cover your fae holes for a week or two then take it off, this I have found to be an unnecessary step when spawning to a tub. 2 layers of micro pore tape is good and what I do and no need to mess with it from here on out. I try and keep it as simple as possible for everyone and no need to mess with fae holes whatsoever when spawning to a tub. Just be patient, only mist if sides and lid don't show any Condensation. When your casing layer is fully colonized, usually 2 weeks after spawning, give the surface of your cake a very light and fine mist so it shines if there aren't any little beads of water on surface of the cake. Doesn't need much. The evaporation of these fine beads of water help to induce pinning and will help your fruiting surface conditions for fuller flushes. Want to get a fine mister for this process. Only repeat when the surface doesn't have any beads of water on it, usually every 3 or 4 days. Hope this helps. Keep us posted!
Does anyone know where I can Buy Spores please... This is for medicinal use for me.. can anyone help me please?? If you are willing to help that would be great.
I got so tired of all the different options and opinions i kept getting, i ended up just going with my gut. Live n learn ya know, im a beginner so I i know ill run into issues ill need to correct.
Most the reason I made this channel. Research on the subject constantly contradicts itself as well as any opinions you get. I usually just do about 2-2.5" on substrate layer, grain layer and then a very thin casing, but want all your grains covered when spawning to a tub for sure. But started using 32qt tubs also, this video I was using 20qt boys. It's alot of trial and error, but you'll get it! Appreciate the feedback and best of luck. Find me on Facebook and shoot me a message if you have anymore questions.
No windows in my grow room, that's why I use the lights I have. Run them 24/7, it's always bright in grow area. You can get away with ambient light, but when spawning to a tub I suggest 247 lighting.
Forget which strain this was to be honest it was a while ago, but usually get full or close to full canopies when caps open all the way up. Been experimenting with a few strains, few land race they call them ( just your basic cube brown cap n stem ) and some albino or exotic strains which are a bit more difficult to grow and take quite a bit longer to fruit. If you use a pseudo casing ( thin casing covering your grains when spawning to a tub ), should be about a week and will be completely white, that's when a very light and very fine mist is needed over the surface. Very little water droplets and at the right angle will look very shiny or glisten. These droplets SLOWLY evaporating off the surface will help induce pinning and give you a more even pin set on the surface of the cake.
Repeat that process every couple days or when droplets evaporate off the surface, no need to do it every day. You'll know when surface doesn't have droplets on it any longer and just repeat that process until pinning occurs or you see them coming in, very easy to spot. Let it do its thing and no more misting the surface is needed, just keep humidity up in tub by misting sides and lid and only mist sides and lid if they dont have any Condensation on them. After harvesting a flush, I usually give the cake a good mist add another casing layer or just hit the spots I picked from with more substrate and repeat the fine misting process explained in previous reply.
If your field capacity is right with your substrate meaning has enough H2O, yes, but if it starts looking dry on the surface or casing layer give it a very light fine mist. You want little beads of water on the surface so it shines to help induce pinning, once pinning starts just make sure you have Condensation on sides and lid and will be just fine to get you through the first flush, then repeat the process after you harvest to prepare for 2nd flush.
That's why I use a liner so if water does decide to start pooling at the bottom of the tub, it doesn't affect or saturate the cake. Between Flushes I will empty excess water out of tub by holding the tub on the side tilting it into a mason jar using the corner. Make sure you hold onto the cake tho and be careful doing so, I made the mistake of not holding the cake and she came right out of the tub all over the floor.... so please be cautious if you do need to empty some moisture out of tub. Properly sterilize hands and such Also! Very important.
I do not mix my grains with my substrate. I put a nice substrate layer down, you want at least 1 or 2 inches of substrate you can go 3 but not necessary. Depending on how much grain your using, I use about 4 quart jars per 32ml tub, so I will put e jars over my substrate, put a little bit more sub over first 2 grain jars I don't fully cover the grains just add a little sub layer, very thin, then add my last 2 grain jars on top of it, then add my pseudo casing layer very thin but you want your last grain layer covered, but just enough to where no grains are visible. That's how I prepare my tubs, so substrate/ grain/ pseudo casing basically.
Exactly, helps keep Condensation in your tub also so you don't have to mist as much either. Nice even air flow thru the tub, helps keep your humidity levels exactly where you want them. Appreciate the positive input!
My Super Duper Liquid Culture Recipe! Lol, got a video on my channel for the recipe. Started fading away from LCs myself, started working with Agar more. I've had better luck with agar, have an agar recipe on channel as well.
I love mine also! As am I my friend, absolutely love this model. Simple design, no rocker, adjustable psi setting, plenty big for what you need. Highly recommend for sure.☘️🍄☘️
The mycelium should never decrease after spawning to a tub, should always be increasing. I think this video was filmed only a week after spawning, about that much time for your pseudo casing to become fully colonized, or top layer in tub. That's when I will start lightly misting the surface, with a very fine mist, until it glistens, to help induce pinning. Repeat this process when it dries up, about every other day or every couple days, depending on fresh air exchange. As soon as you start seeing pins, stop misting surface and just keep humidity up in the tub, by misting sides and top of your tub.
@@Myco_BlaineO_ thanks, I think the rapid temperature decrease to 19C, could shock mycelium growth. Nevertheless other signs such like nice mushrooms smell, no pests and bacteria I see well. Probably it just need a little more time
Doesn't have to be that thick, but with the size of the tub (20qt sterlite gasketed tub) and using a 5lb bag of substrate that's close to the height of your substrate layer you'll come up with. But, not necessary of course. Substrate layer should always be thicker than your grain layer/ pseudo casing layer if possible.
Great question! It's the nitrogen in the coffee the mycelium enjoys. I have found actual coffee grains has the potential for contam down the road in some cases. With the instant dissolvable coffee, you get the necessary nitrogen boost without the coffee grains being a pissible contamination issue that occurs sometimes unfortunately. The instant coffee is disolvable and the popcorn will absorb that nitrogen without any coffee grains in your final product. Therefore taking the potential coffee grain contam issue out of the equation but still giving you the nitrogen boost the mycelium enjoys. If that makes sense.
I believe these were Fiji but not 100% certain, it was a while ago. Sorry, just not wanting it to be the wrong strain, but am almost certain the strain was Fiji.
I was thinking about taking my old spent cake chopping up some straw and some Coco coir crumble up some cake mix it all together and see if it won't make another flush
Depending on strain you'd be perfectly fine just using the coir and adding another casing layer, hydrating the cake of course and see what you can come up with! The cake will keep producing as long as it's hydrated and nutrients are still available. May not be much or worth it to most growers but I'm like you I'll let a tub ride as long as I can lol. To the filter I always say 🚬 haha. Good luck! Keep us posted!
hey im fairly new and about to spawn to bulk here in less than a week. My friend was also telling me about a pseudo casing! Then i found your video.. to simplify it, is it just an extra layer of coco coir over the grain/sub mix? or do you use any other specific substrate for the casing layer? i plan on using coco, verm and gypsum as my substrate
@vadkinsvlogs2577 yes, it is just a very thin layer to cover your grain layer, I have a video on simple tub set up, want to make sure grain layer is fully covered that's a pseudo casing when spawning to a tub. Using the same stuff as you use for substrate to do your pseudo casing layer. All the same stuff. Hope this helps.
@@Myco_BlaineO_ that makes a lot of sense, i didn’t know if pseudo meant a secret thing or not, i got some Amazonians and Leu Swamp Ghost going right now, it’s at about 95% right now so this week im gonna transfer! Im super excited, thank you again❤️🍄
Not condoned, but if contamination happens to occur ( happens to all of us ) it's possible to treat with Peroxide and possibly limp it through for a flush or at the very least a few fruits so it's not a complete waste. Just make sure you isolate the tub and keep it away from other tubs/grow area because it will in fact affect the others unfortunately. Just a little trick I've learned as I said to limp it through to get at least somthing out of it. Especially starting off it's very discouraging when contam pops up, but may not be as bad as one thinks if isolated and treated if caught in time. At least long enough for some potential fruits. Hope this helps! ☘️🍄☘️
Yeah that doesn't prove it's contaminated could be just very rigorous growth. Heat sterilize an innovation loop and dip it in the culture the streak the loop on some agar and you can see if anything besides mycelium grows
Right, doesn't prove it's contaminated, but for people just starting off they don't usually have the proper equipment or knowledge to investigate the contamination any further. This was a video strictly based on visual signs of what is most likely a contaminated LC, to help those who don't have the ability to verify if it is in fact contaminated. If sterilized properly and innoculated properly and your jar starts looking like muggy pond water, it's usually time to toss and try again. Trying to help prevent any further damage the contamination might cause was the purpose of the video.
If you can't test your lc properly then you shouldnt be making lc. Yea this doesnt prove anything my guy, ive been doing this for around 13 yrs and have seen some really nasty cultures come out clean as fucc.. always test your lc or you're wasting your time, doesn't cost shit for agar and condiment cups. Not like you gotta have anything high tech 😂
Idk I'd spend the extra 10$ for agar and cups to test so I'm not wasting time, supplies and cultures. Alls I'm saying if you're scaled up that much to be making lc then you should have the money or proper testing equipment.
In my previous videos about misting, I wanted to clarify not to over mist, as fruiting surface conditions are very important, it's almost more important to not over due it and invite possible contam issues down the road. Appreciate the positive feedback!
i’m about to do my first mod tub, so much conflicting information… I’m thinking you’re right though less chance for contamination and unless they absolutely need and are drying out what’s the point?
If these are for grains, I would suggest the use of Microppose synthetic filter stickers instead of syringe filters. They provide much better FAE than even 2 syringe filters will. Theyre substantially more affordable as well, at less than $4 for a sheet of 50, and theyre made specifically for this application. If these are for LC, you only need one syringe filter, as its not for FAE (Fresh Air Exchange) for growth, but to merely provide filtered air exchange for the purpose of equalizing vacuum/pressure while drawing/adding liquid culture or LC broth from your jar. 1 is plenty for this application.
Grain Jars. Don't use the micropose filters ad you have to change them out after every use..... these will last you as long as the jar lid does. I like the syringe filters better for break and shake to ensure sterilization and less chance of contam. Use 2 filters and about to change to 3 syringe filters for even better fae. Appreciate the input tho....
@@Myco_BlaineO_ I dont know where you heard that, and who lied to you, but you couldnt be any more wrong in everything you just said. You absolutely do not have to change them after every use, far from it. I have 5 dozen grain jars, all with these applied. ALL 60 of these jars have been through dozens of runs, and not a single one has failed to stay on, or has needed changing due to wear. The 3M brand adhesive on these is so strong that if/when I need to finally replace one, I will have to manually peel it off. Mine have been on my lids for going on 3yrs without a single issue. These are not the cheap paper filter stickers with crappy adhesive, Microppose ones not only have that 3M adhesive I already mentioned, but theyre made of a synthetic material, that is not only super tough but hydrophobic as well. They are .3micron filtration, the same as my commercial FFU "hood" filter, but provide a much better gas exchange rate then even 2 of your syringe filters. Those syringe filters youre defending for this application provide poor FAE, this is why youre currently using 2, and talking about using 3 of them in the future. Where only one of these .32c filters will do a much better job. You absolutely will not contaminate on a break and shake due to these Microppose filters. If your grains tam, it because your culture is dirty, or you improperly sterilized the grains. Either way, its on you, not the filters. The syringe filters are not going to decrease your rate of contamination in any way what-so-ever, they only restrict fresh air exchange. I feel like you may be new to this hobby, as those of us that have been at this for some time already know all of this. You dont see Willy, Yoshi, PGT, MycoGeeky, Wombat, myself, or anyone else with experience using syringe filters on grain jar lids. Even the commercial mushroom cultivators, like Gary from Fresh From The Farm Fungi, and many other commercial cultivators dont currently use syringe filters for grain jars in their tutorials. They all use the same adherable synthetic filter stickers I recommended to you and your viewers, and for good reason. Because they are much better, in every possible way. Im not hating on you, far from it. We all had to start somewhere. We dont learn of better methods/equipment if we cannot accept useful constructive criticism, and thats what this is. If youd like to ask any questions you can reach me at Discord as WhiteBeard#1205, or Instagram @whitebeardhashtag1205. I also share tips and tricks here on RU-vid, and have dropped some useful info in my interviews on both The MycoGeeky Podcast and FAFO Cult podcast (both can be found here on RU-vid). Best of luck in the future, and Happy Cultivating!
I feel that 73 - 75 is a bit low and seems to slow down the fruiting process. I have had alot better and faster results with 76 - 78° with a wide range of strains and all did better with those temps.
It is much more advantageous for you to mix the ingredients into the water at room temperature, before applying heat. Adding the ingredients to hot water has a tendency to clump, and not mix as easy. It doesnt matter if the agar cools before sterilization. It can cool all the way down to the point of being a solid, and the sterilization run in the pressure cooker will liquify it once again. Cooling does not hurt the agar in any way what-so-ever. 45min sterilization at 15psi is excessive, 30min is more than adequate, regardless of the recipe. Most people only sterilize both LC and agar at 15psi for 20min, but I do 30min. Anything beyond 30min may cause harm as the glucose (in your case the LME [Light Malt Extract]) will begin caramelizing. Caramelized sugars are much harder for the mycelium to ingest.
It might be, I use a whisk and usually a bigger pot to be able to work ingredients very thoroughly to make sure there are no clumps and have never had an issue adding ingredients to boiling water. I usually take pot off burner after it boils, add ingredients and start mixing immediately, turn heat to medium and put back on burner and keep mixing until its all fully dissolved. Works best for me that way but depends on what brand of agar also come to find out. Never mix long maybe 1 or 1.5 minutes but for the amount of h2o used in the mix I've never had any clumping using a whisk and whisking the heck out of the mix to blend thoroughly.
@@Myco_BlaineO_ did someone else comment here with a question? If they did, I cant see it. RU-vid likes to hide comments sometimes. Why? I dont know, but they definitely do
The best way to avoid gnats and flies is to keep the surfaces in your fruiting area clean and sanitized. Every once in a while (preferably a schedule of once a month) mist the walls and other surfaces in your fruiting area with bleach (specifically a 10% bleach/90% water solution) in a spray bottle. This will not only keep the flies and gnats at bay, it also aids in keeping the area contaminant free.
Best way I have found is to keep fans or air movement in grow room/ area as they hate the wind. Had an issue one time and haven't had one since. Keeping grow area clean is also a good way to prevent this issue. But wind or air movement has been the best prevention in my experience.
@@Myco_BlaineO_ Im not discounting the air movement, but that only helps if theyre already present, I cant imagine how moving air would actually prevent their occurrence, merely mitigate their presence. My comment was about actual prevention. The cleaning method I previously mentioned, along with proper pasteurization or sterilization of your substrate, are the only prevention methods I am aware of.
Because they would completely avoid the area as they hate air movement....? Wouldn't even go in the grow room/area because of all the moving air is how.
Optimal break n shakes should be done at 30-50%, and another at 100% colonization. The first is to redistribute the colonized grains into the uncolonized grains to create more inoculation points, hastening the rate of colonization of the mycelium. The second should be done at 100% colonization. The purpose of this break n shake is not to redistribute colonized grains, rather to make sure the mycelium is healthy and "bounces back" quickly. Grains that havent been properly sterilized have a tendency to still contain endospores, and will stay hidden within the individual grains themselves until later into the colonization phase. If they dont bounce back quickly that is likely a indicator the jar has some type of contamination. However, If they DO bounce back quickly, it is fairly safe to assume you have healthy grain colonization and they are ready to spawn to substrate. Side note: using PTFE syringe filters is completely unnecessary for grain jar lids. I suggest you rather employ the use of .3micron adherable hydrophobic synthetic filter stickers instead. They do an even better job at FAE (Fresh Air Exchange) than doubled up syringe filters like you have on your grain jar lids. Microppose sells sheets of 50 of these for less than $4. They filter stickers are not only far superior for this particular application, theyre substantially more cost effective by comparison. Hope this helps you, and anyone else viewing this video 😁
As long as they're shaken at least twice and fully colonize they'll be fine to send. Breaking it again after it's 100% colonized makes absolutely no sense and unnecessary if it's already 100% colonized which is why it's best to break and shake around 30% first shake then shake again around 75% and should only be a few days after 2nd shake and they'll be ready to send and 100% colonized..... just prolonging the process going your route.
Explained filter situation in other reply I like the syringe filters for no contam results. Micropose filters always scare me when break and shaking because i wouldn't want my grains touching a filter of that type. Never have had an issue with the tight fit of a syringe filter and feel better using those and don't have to change every time you use them....... trying to save people money and the hassle of using micropose filters..... why not just use micropore tape if that's the case? Cheaper and easier to come by.......?
"They need light 24hrs a day", they most certainly do not, this is far from true. Albeit fungi are not plants that require a cycle or specific light wave spectrum, they absolutely do not "need" light 24/7. They benefit nothing from constant exposure to light. The purpose of the light might not be for photosynthesis, this is true. However, the mycelium mostly employs the light as a guide, to tell the fruits which direction is up (mimicking the sun, telling the fruits which direction to grow). There is zero academic literature, that I am aware of, that even suggests 24/7 lighting, of any kind, is beneficial to mycelial colonization OR fruiting of mushrooms. Also, thats a lot of lighting for that room, for your tubs. A single standard higher wattage LED bulb (standard round screw-in bulb) will more than suffice for your needs in that limited space. I mean no disrespect, seriously. But Ive been in this game for decades, and have been instructing my students in mushroom cultivation for years. Ive watched several of your videos this evening, and I dont know where youre sourcing your info from, but theres a lot of "trust me bro science" going on here..
100% light when spawning to a tub. This is necessary for optimal fruiting and have had the best results not on a 12 on 12 off cycle. It's always bright in my grow room and the mushies love it. Been doing this a while and wouldn't steer anyone wrong. No need for a 12 on 12 off cycle full 24 hour lighting when spawning to a tub my friend. Trust me.
@@Myco_BlaineO_ You mightve missed a couple parts oof my response to you 1) I never claimed to promote a 12/12 cycle 2) "been doing this a while, and wouldnt steer anyone wrong", maybe you missed the part where I told you I have been doing this for decades (26yrs this fall), and that I instruct mushroom cultivation. 3) "trust me", the only thing missing from that phrase is "bro" 🤣 This is exactly what I referenced in my original comment about all of the "trust me bro science" in your videos. I said "There is zero academic literature, that I am aware of, that even suggests 24/7 lighting, of any kind, is beneficial to mycelial colonization OR fruiting of mushrooms", and your response wasnt a citation of a scientific journal or even a trusted source from the internet. Merely "trust me" 😆 You keep doing you boo
Then let me do me..... wouldn't put out any bad information and been doing this a long time myself. Contradicting literally every tekk or video tells me you need alot more to fill up your day with.... how bout some of that mycology to keep you busy, rather than trolling on someone else's techniques and how I go about my mycology work...... I need no instruction and can take criticism, but your a bit much as I mentioned before...... bro. Have a good one.
@@Myco_BlaineO_ Im not stopping you from doing you, not even trying to stop you. Youve put up a ton of bad information, hence my comments on your videos. I dont "contradict literally every Mycology video", only the ill informed ones pushing misinformation and "trust me bro science", which yours are full of. All my cultivation work is completed for the day, I have the time to respond to you while Im editing videos, as I am already on the computer. Im not trolling you, I am correcting and teaching you. Theres a massive difference between the two. If I was trolling you I would be making fun of you, which you make quite easy, but thats not how I roll. I am not a troll, I am an instructor, a lover of mushroom cultivation, and our community. " can take criticism", you most certainly cannot take criticism. Youve proven that many times in the interactions Ive had with you. Im not a "bit much", no matter how many times you say it. You just cant handle being corrected or taught. " I need no instruction", oh but you do, that is quite clear. Whether you welcome it is clearly another story in itself... For someone that cultivates actives I expected you to be less egotistical and open to new/better information. Dont worry, I wont be commenting anymore on your videos. I am done with you. I wish you success in your endeavors, and Happy Cultivating 😃
45 mins for agar bro..... haven't had any issues doing it this way..... disagreeing with every video seems a little much.... wouldn't steer anyone wrong and have had great success with these processes/ tekks.
@@Myco_BlaineO_ 45min is excessive "bro". 20min is sufficient, 30min is pushing it, and 45min is excessive. Ive spoken about this on: either one of my appearance on The MycoGeeky Podcast, the FAFO podcast, or the interview I conducted with DarkMatterMycology (I cant remember which). Sugars (Light Malt Extract [LME], has sugar) begin to caramelize after 30min into the sterilization cycle, and caramelized sugars are harder for the mycelium to digest. It is advantageous for the mycelium to have more readily available nutrients. "disagreeing with every video seems a little much", but is it? I havent even seen all of your videos, Ive only commented on those Ive watched. And, I wouldnt have disagreed with you so much if your info was correct, or if there wasnt a better way. I dont watch videos like yours because I need the information, far from it. I am a content creator as well, and I know how important is is to get likes and comments, as it really helps the algorithm put that video in front of more new faces that otherwise wouldnt even know your channel exists. I watch a ton of mushroom related videos specifically to like and comment, to help them grow. I am not rude in the comments I make, I dont talk down to anyone, and all I do is pass on excellent information for not only the cultivators making these videos, but for their viewers as well. I have been cultivating for 25yrs, instruct mushroom cultivation, and have been part of the Instagram/Discord/Reddit/RU-vid community for years. I have spread useful information on all of these platforms, and will continue to do so. I source the majority of my information from Biology/Microbiology academic/scientific journals, not "trust me bro science". It may behoove you to consider what I am saying to you in the comments, you just might learn something. Hell, I might even learn something from you. However, the arguments of "this works for me" and "trust me bro" is going to keep you stagnate in this hobby, and does not serve you or your audience well. Ive always found it a conundrum that some cultivators of these wonderful medicines have issues with being corrected or accepting better information. For people that use these mushrooms to shed ego, that is a wild response to someone actually trying to help you better your craft. Its almost as though they dont use their own medicine...
I love how the first video you posted to your mycology channel is "Saucin' Ribs"! Hell yeah brother 🤘I too love to BBQ, those ribs look tasty AF. Making me hungry! I absolutely had to thumbs up this video!
Just what I was looking for, 1 thing is that I've had to heat my spawn bags for cultivation as these ones like a warmer climate... You are saying that even with tropical types you can store (before monotubbing later for example) at such cold temps? I only need a week or so as am going to be away from home
Of course! I keep my mycology fridge at 40° and fully colonized grain jars kept just fine for at least 6 months if not longer lol. Just as long as they don't freeze they will be just fine!
Yes, you can to better verify that it's contaminated, but if it looks like any of the bad jars it's contaminated, better to toss and try again, just verifying the inevitable at that point lol. If you have sterile broth and innoculating with clean agar it should come out just fine. But contam does happen and will happen, made these videos to help you spot bad stuff before sending it to further destruction lol.
Maybe not to newbies, tho. Better to help point out the contamination before sending it to further destruction of contaminated grains, especially dealing with lcs. If it looks contaminated just toss and try again.
Exactly what spawning means yes, great question. I'll make a short on it to help disclose that. Forget terminology and how confusing some of the terms used in mycology are. Thanks for the question. Be safe and happy growing☘️🍄☘️
Hey bro thanks for the content look I got a question if I send you a picture could you possibly help me out and determining if it has contamination or not? Appreciate it if you could let me know and we'll go from there thanks bro
More than happy to try and help if I can bro. Look me up on Facebook and message me there same Facebook name. If that's not an option just send me it on here and I'll see what I can determine for you if I can.
Appreciate the positive feedback! Hope it helps a bit. Hard to get all the Condensation out of your plates but this technique will at least help minimize it.
@@Myco_BlaineO_ Awesome! I look forward to seeing it! I just started my first Uncle Ben's tek. I'm hoping for some good results so I can take some prints and make some cultures. So much cheaper when you have cultures.
