Now the big question is, will that 100% lineup when you put the drywall back in the wall and screw it in. It seems like somethings always off a little bit when you do something like this
Excellent hack. Thank you. Subscribed. This is the part of hanging drywall that I’m not looking forward to. The cutting around and measuring all the switches and outlets.
What about using a regular kitchen oven with smoking chips/pellets in the bottom? I have an old one that I want try it with. The top part of the stove is no good, so I'm thinking of drilling a couple small holes in the top and use it as an electric smoker. The oven has a heating element in the top & bottom. If put a metal tray with chips/pellets directly onto the bottom element that would create the smoke and top element would do most of the cooking. 🤔
@@tysonhorn510 I get that, didn’t figure it would put off enough heat to matter. I’m about to finish up my own smoker build, will play around with it to figure that part out, thanks for the prompt reply.
Nice job cutting and cameraing at the same time; I couldn't do that! Personally, I prefer to add the box after the drywall's installed, because I don't know how far to put them out in front of the studs. The last drywall section I replaced was only 3/8" thick to match the rest of the wall.
Just adding my comment, the reason you don't hang drywall vertical is because when finished with paint the human eye can see the small distinction or ripple effect, it is why drywall is hung horizontal and staggered. If you don't want to measure, use red lip stick around the box, it imprints 100% with a very slight press.
Came back here to say thanks for this tip. Now, plastic boxes are not common, at least where I live, and this doesn't work quite as well with metal boxes. The edge is thinner and doesn't hold as much dust. But it does work! Better than inaccurate measuring, for sure.
Great tip that I learned years ago. What I learned was instead of the scrap sheetrock piece, you can use your girlfriend's /wife's old lipstick ! Works, like a charm. 😉
Yeah there's a lot of things that will work great. My video shows what I like to do when I'm too lazy to go find what I really need to do the job. Haha.
Good video. I think you'd be fine without the Masonite. If you bend the metal directly around the posts it will still have some play especially after moving it around leveling etc. It would eliminate a lot of the movement when the panel is attached. A couple of rivets thru the metal would keep it from stretching above ground when there is movement from wind and opening gates etc. I've done this in the past with a little thicker metal. This go round I'm going to try no dig post anchors. Went to get 11.00 anchors from home depot but amazingly they show them online and in stock but they can't find them in the system when you get there but they had plenty of the 35.00 version. The posts sit in the cradle about 6". I guess I'll find out how stable it is too bad that'll be after I've put it up.
Wow, none of the commentaries realize it's way fast to measure and use a rotozip. I would have have it almost screwed off and hole cut exact using my tape. This takes way longer..put end of sharp pencil on end of tape and slide the tape..make and cross hairs where it intersects and zip
Some people don't have access to a rotozip. Obviously this isn't the best way to do this.... just putting things out there for people who might find it helpful.
