Two types of content: 1) Automotive do-it-yourself how to videos. 2) A little comedy and just for fun, and some school related videos. We are uploading new material approximately once a month, two at the most. Thanks for watching!
Idk about banging on the nut and tie rod, I did that when I was starting too. Hitting the knuckle once for twice with the second hammer will usually do the trick. Hit it where the bj is and it will usually break apart. Pickle fork works… there’s a ball joint separator tool too. I only hit the tie rod or nut when I’m planning on changing them for sure.
Not the same, but the Sienna is doable. You will need an O2 socket and may have to remove an interior panel depending on which sensor you are replacing. There are a couple good specific videos on youtube and the placement is similar to a video I did on a Lexus RX 330.
Fantastic presentation! You smartly replaced all the future troublesome parts for future maintenance. You gave a nice sequenced, yet detailed and concise explanation. Gives me confidence to buy this engine in a Toyota.
Some timing belts have marks, others don't. I personally do not use belt marks, only the marks on the engine. No sweat if you prefer to use the belt marks.
It is probably the 3UZ-FE engine. It is in the same family as the 2UZ in the trucks, but it has an aluminum block and heads versus the iron block in the trucks. It does have a timing belt and should be replaced at times with a similar procedure.
Looking at this and looks like the belt isn’t properly lined up with timing marks. CR on belt should be lined up with crank dot. Left hand should line up with drivers side. And right hand should be passenger side. Just a heads up to whoever does this.
I purchased a 2000 Tundra new January 2000 I own it today and drive it almost every day. the third brake light assembly finally got so brittle from sunshine that it crumbled into pieces so I got an LED assembly to replace it. Here is the disclaimer, my truck was built in Indiana and the third brake light was adhered to the body/roof with an asphalt type sealant no need to remove headliner I replaced it today all is well. (before you stress over the "Built in Indiana part" , please do your homework )
It looks like you oriented The crush washer with the rounded side to be mated to the housing, but Toyota parts counter told me that the flat side is to go against the housing for proper seal for 2005 Highlander. Did you end up orienting with the rounded or flat side toward the housing?
Good question. If the Toyota parts and mechanic folks are saying orient the crush washer that way, I won't argue. I would say from my experience it doesn't matter as long as you use the proper torque and the washer actually crushes a bit.
@@gdupler1966Thanks! I do believe it makes sense. If you look closely at a used Toyota steel crush washer, there is a bit of a "step" on the originally rounded side. It makes sense that you would want the perfectly flat side to be sealed against the housing side of the differential or transfer case to avoid oil leakage from the interior of the differential or transfer case, to the exterior. How much difference it could potentially really makes might be negligible to nothing at all but it does make sense. Thanks for the video! I watched several of these before attempting the job and yours was helpful.
Great video brother, I bought my 2004 Toyota Tundra for my cousin and the squirrels did some serious damage to the wiring I just traced the wiring from the sensor on the front right hand side and found they were completely chewed through I just reconnected them disconnected the battery to let it reset I'm going to drive it around and see if it goes off my issues a little bit more difficult because my speedometer is not working I already replaced the vehicle speed sensor on the driver side of the tranny and that still didn't cut it
Thanks for the kind words! I don't envy you with the wiring issues. It may be good to pick up a new speed sensor and some other wiring harnesses from the junkyard as they rarely go bad without animals.
Torque should be around 36 lb ft. I think the 2014-2019 Highlanders have the same diff. Loosen the filler and remove it so the fluid will drain a little quicker ( like removing your oil filler cap before taking out the drain plug ).
I do have a question tho my upper right timing mark moved as I accidentally hit the sprocket while removing the water pump, will moving it back on to the timing mark cause an issue?
Just saw this, so I am sure you have already worked it out, but a slight bump while the belt is off can be fixed by slightly moving the sprocket back to the original position.
Hello there! Quick question: 1)how many miles do you get out of a full tank I noticed your gas gauge showed almost a full tank but you had gone 78 miles My 2004 DC tundra with 215k miles barely goes 180-200 miles on a full tank 2.5” lift 33s I noticed whitish exhaust (? Running too rich?) I’ve changed the MAF sensor Oxygen sensors Spark plugs and wires Cleaned the injectors Still approx 10 mpg I’ve heard some guys get 16-18mpg I’ve also heard the 2004 DC gearing is 4:10 which could be the problem Today I replaced the Vapor Canister Purge valve/canister
I have an '04 sc430 and yours is the first video, and I watched many, that actually gave me a good idea of where these things are located. Thank you!! Also, thanks for the reminder to take my time and not to get frustrated.
Thank you for making this step-by-step video. I will be doing this to my 04 Tundra DC in a few days and I will be watching your video along the way. It will save me at least $1k by doing it myself.
My Sequoia has 204k miles on it. It's preparing to get the timing belt, etc done for the 2nd time. It's overdue, I'm nervous about it, I still may have a shop do it. Thanks for the great vid.
Just saw this as my notifications haven't been working. I usually look through the listing on the label where the fuse box is located, but sometimes that is missing. The fuse for most of the side mirror functions is inside, under the dash, with a 7.5 Amp fuse toward the lower right of the panel. You may also have a bulb out.
Hard to find this information, so thank you for putting this together and making it so organized. We had a pack rat nest in the blower, which then led to the resistor going out on us. Got that ordered yesterday and look forward to putting it in and getting everything back to working order.
Glad you showed us the burned out pigtail as I realized my existing one was totally fine. Nice to be able to compare. I just plugged the original one back into the new resistor and it works like a dream! Sooooooo much money saved! Wish I had known about all of this repair last year when I had the motor replaced. Other people made it sound like a nightmare of a project, and it isn't.
Two other videos doing the drain and fill on the rear diff on a 2019 AWD Highlander say the the torque setting on both the drain and fill plugs is 36 foot lbs.
