While my light is dim too... I need to know how to get the heater out. Can you tell me how, or do a video. Thank you. And I agree...Best coffee maker I've ever had.
Sorry for not seeing this comment months earlier, I'm guessing by now you've replaced the old coffee maker... I thought the heater was accessible through the bottom, two layers of base to remove but easy to do.
@@chrisingram7277 I was actually able to find and purchase this same model - brand new in the box. Am enjoying great coffee ever since the coffee maker arrived.
sorry for the late reply, definitely. It's designed for +-20v so it works for everything except coils/injectors where you would add a 20x attenuator into the circuit
The app is only available for Android using the HScope app: play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.martinloren.hscope&hl=en_US&gl=US The HScope app works on almost 30 different oscilloscopes so you just need a compatible scope and the software. The list of compatible oscilloscopes (bottom of page) www.martinloren.com/hscope
Do you need to purchase anything within the app for it to work?? Or the app itself is completely free to use for this version. I hope you can answer it. I referring to the license within the app
It should work a little, but it looks like only one channel will work in the free version, just down a bit on the page www.martinloren.com/hscope/ is licensing which will give you an idea what you'll get for free, I think the HS402 license is around $15 but it was a few years ago that I bought it.
Pardon me for being ignorant but how did you come up with the equation where you divided the current draw on the multimeter by 384? Also, I have a multimeter with a 20 amp circuit protection. Will that work as well and if so, do I need to use a different equation?
It's hard to see on a small screen (at 7:05 timestamp) but HScope is showing 384mV of drop across the multimeter while the meter is showing 3896mA of current so all I'm doing is creating a multiplier from those two values. I'm guessing your meter should work fine but this is a new concept to me, I've only seen one other person do this...
nice to see you've uploaded a new video and obviously got the hang of the new editor the ACS712 current module and the shunt resistor method each have their advantages/disadvantages the shunt disadvantage is that when the current draw was 3.5A it meant that the vehicle modules were only getting 9v (possibly less) and borderline for codes... ACS712 disadvantage is it's more finicky
The multimeter certainly is an easy method, I was surprised seeing that much current going through the bulbs, you are right about that much voltage drop. Looks like your version was gadget#20 and has been "house cleaned" :) I am liking this new video editor, thanks for sharing it.
The most expensive part is the microprocessor which is going for $5usd from Aliexpress but you'll probably be spending $50ish as they sell all the other components in packs of 5's or 100's... I'm not sure if you follow Denis on the Gadgets Playlist but he's the inspiration for this diy build, his channel progresses along to more advanced builds but definitely worth subscribing to ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zNMFJDlTU3U.html
Hi , I have the same problem the display doesn´t work at all, Do you think it´s necessary for the screen to work in order to make coffee well? I tried it with just water and it heat well.
@@trankos2367 That's what my wife would do to set the timer, wait till it was dark at night:) eventually I'd put in a new led and get more life out of the coffee maker.
Thanks. I replaced mine tonight and it was fairly easy despite all the screws. The 2 screws at 1:00 were completely corroded, so I had to drill them out. Luckily there was still enough left to twist the screws out with a small pliers. Thanks again - - I can use delay brew now!
I haven't really played with this one much, it was more of an experiment to get a common ground with the power supply. But a better op amp would help, I just put in a low cost one to try it out. The real HS402 does a much better job.
I'm going to try wifi on this one and do a little modification and see how it works for automotive. As is the bandwidth is not great but might be good enough for auto repair.
It should work, I'll give it try this afternoon and try some automotive captures. There is a bit of cross talk between the two channels so it should be interesting,
I'm not sure why this comment did not come through on YT so thought I paste it here.: Darryl Chris - Thank you for this video. I was able to take apart my coffee maker and replace that faulty backlight thanks to your instructions. Instead of replacing just the LED, I replaced the entire backlight with an Adafruit 1622 (size medium ) backlight module off of Amazon. It is 23mm x 75mm so must be cut to the required length. It is also about 1mm too wide as compared to the original, but I found it still fit OK, although tightly. Here is an Amazon link to the part: www.amazon.com/White-LED-Backlight-Module-Medium/dp/B00R5CDHNI REPLY MANAGE ALL COMMENTS
Thanks! You mentioned medium was tight, so I selected the smaller size on that link, but it didn't quite fill the space and although it worked, I'd recommend going with medium to light the entire screen. Great almost direct replacement.
Thanks Alejandro, I used 1210 smd's (www.aliexpress.com/item/32825796287.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dbvariV) but they were a bit large and I had to trim the plexiglass. 0805 's might be the right size.
Hi Chris! my mom got the same coffee maker and never used it. It doesn't seem to work, so I'm trying to diagnose it and fix. This machine has an insane amount of screws! However I'm not able to disassembly the side panel, seems like it has two plastic pins (or screw covers?) on the back. I wasn't able to got those out and pop the machine open. Any ideas on this? It's driving me nuts and don't want to break it (or maybe I do). Thx.
@@chrisingram7277 It doesn't turn on at all. It's a real shame since AFAIK it was never used. Where's the access hole to the PSU? I didn't find that neither. I'd love to find some disassembly instructions although most certainly those would not be public.
