A webshop specialised in Volvo 240 740 940 and Mazda MX-5 parts. Working on them is half the fun of the bussiness and we enjoy sharing some cool content with you.
Hey man, what happened to the Volvo, you inspired me to buy one with your first video of the cheap Volvo years ago and now I see that you didn't upload any more videos of it. still alive? Greetings from Argentina
what an awesome fucking swap man love it! i’ve been looking into maybe getting a volvo wagon & getting it swapped, i love older volvos and giving it a step up w a v8 sounds like a damn good deal. live in the US now but grew up in amsterdam and your accent makes me smile! awesome videos man thank you, looking forward to another post
@@KZ3W : The Honda Service Manual for that model and the Honda Common Service Manual are both available free online they will give the exact instructions, on removing the bolt in the back the plunger can be wound back, there is a special Honda tool that will hold it back while the tensioner is re installed and when the tool is removed it will put the tension back on, it can be wound back with a small screwdriver but it's awkward to hold it wound back while reinstalling the tensioner...
brother please just undo the brake lines and abs sensors and drop the whole assembly its faster and you are not fighting axles and bungieing the world lol
Hi Luca! Nice car!!! I am doing this upgrade as well. They are "336mm" brake calipers. And the adapters are now sold differently (they are in one piece). They are tightened (adapters - on the table outside) to 200 Nm (as on the XC90)! And then the whole thing is only tightened to 100 Nm on the car. It is also good to use Loctite glue. Ikona Ověřeno komunitou
Thank you for your video, very useful. But these filters are so stupidly placed, had to take everything out apart from engine. In top of this video my car has 2 cross-arms from the center of bottom of windscreen to the sides what stopping you to reach the back screw of the filter so had to loose the middle screw on windshield, take off completely the side bolt so can move the bar a few cm to give you access. Absolute nightmare. So in top of it i couldn't even take out that air filter cover, i just juggled it to the side a bit and somehow managed to take the filter off and put it back on same way, proper struggle.
A lot of the questions in the comments are simply solved. This is awesome, forget the turbo if you don't have one, just follow the re route cooling flow diagram, front of the engine goes to the back, back to front, pipes follow, that's it! Make sure you insulate the heater core reroute, and have the hoses nicely fixed in place so they don't jump about (they are long, I will be getting pretty hoses to... ;)
There is a language selector on the top right. lucacarmods.com/shop/engine/motorswaps-en/volvo-240-1uz-en/volvo-240-74-940-fan-shroud-kit-spal-1620-m³-h-fan-for-do88-wc-250-radiator/?lang=en
I have a 09 550i. Same noise. When clutch is pressed all the way noise goes away. I replaced clutch pilot bearing etc Noise is still there. Could it be input shaft bearing or flywheel?
how is it with the bigger tyres in respect to the diff ratio and gearing? is getting off the line harder as you essentially reducing torque to the road?
