Hi there are a few videos on my channel with tower building here is a link to one potion. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sJrwAVCz7gY.html
Great video! I'd like to drop my '54 using a dropped axle. The question for me is how much drop. Do you have photos of a 2", 3" and 4" drops so I can see how much of a drop I want?
Hi Rusty thx for the comment, sorry I can't help you with your question as I have never dropped any vehicle but I am sure you will find plenty of video's on youtube about that. good luck cheers.
Hello Nige, don't know if you remember me I made a canopy for one of your trucks, Stuart from S J Cox Upholstery. I'm getting in touch because I am looking for a decent SD1 3.5 V8 to put in my Mk3 Cortina and I know you have experience with them. Do you know of any engines for sale reasonably local? If so would you mind giving me a call? Many thanks Stuart
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SEFgGW5aEMI.html&ab_channel=Borgy%E2%80%99sBits this is a Aussie Chrysler Valiant with the Bw35 with a 3000 stall TC pretty shocking how cool it can be
Hello!! I'm about to build a LR v8 3.9 engine!! And I have a question!! The brand of the pistons on the left side point forward and those on the right side point backward? (LR V8 3.9) thanks
@@fixitnige Thanks for the response and for your time!! Yeah!! I read that the piston rod has its position, but I'm not sure what position the pistons are on the right side (since they have a bolt with 0.5 offset!!). v8 3.9 engine.
Hello!! I'm about to build a LR v8 3.9 engine!! And I have a question!! The brand of the pistons on the left side point forward and those on the right side point backward? (LR V8 3.9) thanks
Hi At .55 seconds the long bar running along the bottom of the barrel has 2 large bolts to hold the barrel shaft to the mixer, undo these bolts ( they brake off easy) then you can lift the barrel off the machine. good luck.
i have just bought a 40ft rascal telescopic mast for my 7 band cobweb i have even got a rca rotator for it allthough my antenna is omni but hey if you can you can i payed £250 for the mast it was 295 and the post but because im allways buying big money items on e,bay i got a good chunk off so i got it for £250 but havn,t put it up yet but will be very soon how high is yours there that looks about 40ft looks great i could do with something like that you have made to bend it over because mines prety heavy 73 from m7byf my youtube is m7byf austie outdoors im putting it up soon so if you want to see it go on there
Hi thanks for a helpful video, I also have a long bed M300, I was curious as to how you deal with the loss of access to the cross slide lock, have you installed an alternative. I was thinking of the set back alternative as it is less machining and leaves the carriage lock accessible, KR Paul
Hi there the cross slide lock is on the front right (17mm bolt) when your standing at the lathe you can see it at the start of the video bottom left corner of the screen the other allen head bolts are for the cross slide keepers only and do no move. Hope that helps cheers
@ige Hi, the M10 bolt is the carriage lock (saddle to main bed), the cross slide lock (cross slide to saddle) is a M8 grub screw that acts on a brass slug that passes though a slot in the taper gib about 1/3 the way back on the RHS of the cross slide. It is a similar arrangement to the topside lock that is also a M8 grub screw. Hope that clarifies the query
Yes sorry your right mu brain wasn't in gear lol I don't think I have had any need for it since fitting the DRO but I am sure now I will need it and have to sort something out lol cheers
C’est le site Web de Clarke Machine Parts, ils ont un numéro international, j’espère que cela vous aidera. Bonne chance.www.clarkeinternational.com/spares-and-service/
bonjour monsieur je possède un tour qui a les mêmes pignons que le votre j'en ai cassé deux un 63 dents et un 32 dents pensez vous qu'il soit possible d'en racheter merci cordialement
nice little build 👍 i can only recommend an H-Bridge and an arduino instead of the manual switch, so you can drive the motor with PWM signal for variable speed, and have all the memory points for different bands with one press of a button. if you want more info on that one, just reply to this comment. I once done something similar for a satellite dish motor and it worked perfectly :)
Hi thx for the comment I do was to do a memory setup for this I was looking at the MFJ one but it's expensive and I am not a fan of MFJ to be honest, I have never done anything with arduino but always willing to try new things, Thx again.
@fixitnige glad to hear a reply :) well the simple diy would be any kind of sensor that counts how many turns the shaft has made (a rotary encoder if u willing to go fancy, or a simple hall effect sensor and a magnet? then its very simple: sensor->arduino->h-bridge->motor. the arduino simply spins the motor, counts the shaft turns, and stops at the right number of turns. you calculate in advance the desired number for each band by tuning manually with your SWR meter, and the arduino just store those numbers as presets which you can select form. you already know soldering pretty well so this part of the equation is solved you u. anyone with a basic coding skills can help u with the rest. all the parts should be like 20$ or so :)
@@EvgeniX. Thx so much for the reply I will for sure look into this a little more as with most things when you know what your doing it's simply :) cheer again.
@@fixitnige im pretty handy with an arduino. You could do all sorts of things to measure heights, the most simple would be some externally mounted switches to register when the antenna is at each point, then a couple of FINE tune buttons to allow you to send it up and down and get it just right. You could have a rotary encoder and use that to fine tune with relative ease. congrats on a great looking antenna. Id use some pvc pipe with a blanking cap on the end as the cover
@@spr00sem00se Thx for the comment and the information I am busy with other projects at the moment but will look at this again when I have time and maybe give you a shout cheers.
Good Video! If you can find them, they make set screws with ball bearings and springs built in (for detent's and such) that should work in this design. 73 mike
Hi Martin the parts are very easy just a ally tube with a 6v battery screwdriver cut in half , The centre core is a piece of nylon rod which the coil of wire is wrapped round. The video is really all you need all the info you need to be honest. good luck. cheers
I know ya probably had good intentions while working with scraps, and modding this exhaust, but unless this riders' super bow legged or something rather, I really don't think he's gonna be riding this thing too much. Nice work though.
Is that a CG or a CB Nige ?? Either way , the CD 185/200 rear wheel fits those . It's a handy upgrade cos you get a much bigger brake drum and a stronger cushdrive set up . Those old CG's are appreciating in value now , if they're original .
@@fixitnige Did you bother putting that spring on, dosent look as if its needed? I'm going to have a look around some car shops tomorrow to see if i can find something. It's the cleaning that's the worst bit...
@@jimspencer3072 yes mate I did put the spring back I think it holds the arm still when the front plate is put back on or the arm would be floppy if that makes sense.
Hello Mike thx for the message glad you like the build it's still going strong and I use it when ever I am out in the van. Building stuff is more trial and error than skill and if it goes wrong you know what not to do next time :) cheers Nigel
Hello Kyle from memory ( as it was some time ago) I think I paid about £250 for the engine and box after that it was just sorting the exhaust from bits I had. all good :) cheers
My Volvo 1800ES has this trans in it. When I acquired the car in 2019 the trans was shot. It was difficult to find a shop willing to open it up (“can’t get parts”), but I was referred to a Vietnamese ex-pat who is a wizard with trannies. He agreed to do the rebuild if I would find the parts. It is too bad your parts were so expensive in UK. I was able to source the exact same parts as you here in the US for about 100USD. Your bands were shot, they need a lining, but also very inexpensive, about 15USD each if I recall. I paid 400USD in labor and the entire process took about 2 weeks. Works great in my Volvo!
Hi Volvo thx for the comment and glad you got your box sorted out, everything here in the UK seams to be bloody expensive but as I had no plans for the gearbox I wasn't that worried about it and sold it on to a guy that repairs them and sells them on. Cheers for now.
Must biggest problem with this engines is quality of spare parts, very simple engine, but often spare parts quality like a shit equal all your work to zero :(
Thanl you for the update Nige, it's coming along slowly and surely, progress being made each time. Sorry to hear your leg has not been good enough to sort the triumph out. As you say...these things happen to us all. Hope the next stage of the project goes well for you. Thanks again for sharing this with us. Cheers Trev
Well done for pushing through the difficulties.....so much work to rectify paintwork that has not worked....but you have succeeded. Looking forward to seeing it all go back together. Thanks for sharing with us...Best wishes Trev
Hi good to hear from you and thx for the kind words. Looking closer at it now I know I could have done better on the prep but I am a welder and a machanic I bloody hate doing prep and paint lol
Despite not being a painter....the finish you've got on the paintwork looks good. It's a good feeling when you start putting everything back on the car and the hard work then pays off. Looking forward to seeing you put all the parts back on. It will look good when finiahed Nige. Cheers T
Hi Mike that's really hard to answer as I had a lot of the parts to hand. I only bought the nylon rod and the little screw driver so to me it was a mater of a few quid.
Hi Michael no problem at the back of the chuck you will see there are 3 bolts and in they will line up with the little gap in the main body of the lathe just undo those 3 bolts and the chuck will come off so you can change to other chucks. Make sure you clean the mating surface when you replace the chuck as it could make the chuck out of line. Hope this helps. cheers
