I'm a scale model beginner. I have been a fan of scale models for a long time but didn't have a chance to really start building until the beginning of 2020.
I don't have a limitation of the range of topics. But currantly as a beginner I choose those kits with good quality for a good price.
So far all my builds are mostly out of box build with some minor modifications and scratch built details.
I have just across your channel and had to watch the F4 build, and absolutely enjoyed watching, I have not subscribed to your channel, bedt regards from Australia
Nothing wrong with this kit regardless it's an old mould. Very affordable for 1/48, with the eye magnet of a good paint job it still builds into a good looking model representation of the A6M2 Type 0 Model 21. Hyper detail is really unnecessary to achieve that. I mean seriously. Do you get down and count the rivets too and check to see if they are flush? People are such snobs today. I didn't find much scraping and filing necessary on mine compared with for instance an Airfix kit of the same era. Basic modelling skills today's generation seem to have missed out on learning gauging from some of the ugle neglected join seams I see on high detail kits which shouldn't be there spoiling all that detail. Whilst I build recent and high detail in 1/32 and 1/48 too, I've also built Tamiya's venerable 1/48 A6M3 Type 0 Model 32, J2M3 Raiden, Ki84-1a Hayate kits from the same era. All look the business once dressed up in their warpaint.
Thank you for the comment. Yes this is a very good considering the age and price. Excellent choice for beginners too Personally I don’t spend a lot of time on trying to make it historically correct. If someone really looking for a kit with good details Tamiya also has the 1/48 zero with newer tools. It’s a bit more expensive but it comes with rivets and more details
Love this kit. May be ancient by the gauge of youth today, albeit lacking the detail and finesse of slide moulded tooling of the latest models today nevertheless it still builds into a very respectable version of the type in 1/48. And it's so inexpensive. The A6M3 Type 0 Model 32 climbing out of Rabaul with the Rabaul calvera and Tavurvur in the background is my favourite of all the pretty astounding box top artworks from Tamiya.
This is a great video for a reference. I’m currently building this model and I have one question: what paint did you use for the drop tank? Is it the same as the under belly of the Zero?
Nice Job, some good tips for me on the paint mixes... and I wouldn't worry to much about the pilot ... I've seen way worse... (looks at model display shelf.. cringe) ;) looks better than most of mine.. I'm just getting back into models after being away from the hobby for more than 30 years a lot has changed , much for me to learn :)
Thank you. That model display thing really cranks me up lol. Yes I think there were a lot of changes throughout the years. Kits got higher quality, and all kinds of new products making everything easier
I'm back modelling about 1 and a half years think I've just picked up more tips in the last 21mins that the last 18 months , thank you so much for taking the time to put this up ,excellent video
Good video, classic build for a first ground vehicle. Great choice. PS on a tank or such, you can use the bottom of it to test colors, mud etc.. Keep up the good work buddy.
Thank you! And appreciate for the tips. Yes I should have done some tests before trying new stuff. And also because I had limited materials and didn’t want to order and wait, I ended up making this with everything I got in a hurry. This is a valuable lesson and learning process through out the build to me
Thank you. Yes I was grad that I was able to make the “mud” at least not so bad eventually. It’s a learning process to me though This kit is old but very enjoyable to build I hope you like it too
Thank you grad you find this helpful. I think this hobby is never about age it’s more about patience and practicing. This one is my second build of the hobby I highly recommend it it’s cheap but well made very comfortable to build
@@yippeescalemodel1151 indeed and that is why I was so excited to see how great this kit can look because I have the same one in my stash. Practice first though on advice from a master. Thank you.
Excellent work. I am about to start working on a Hayate Frank, and your video gave me some ideas. I am just starting to work again on the hobby. Thank you.
@@yippeescalemodel1151 I am coming back to the hobby, airplanes from the WWII, I am trying to work on the models on my time off. It's not easy, but I really enjoy it.
Nice work man! How did you like decal thickness? As far as I can see olive drab bombs only you didn't) as well as no technical marks on rockets. I was more than surprised finding out the decal issue. This ruined my f-4.
Hello yes those decals on the weapons are a pain Ive ruined some of them so I finally gave up. And yes they are quite thick even though I put a layer of clearcoat on top you can still see some of the edges of details
One helpful tip: When you want to paint the Metallic Blue-Green anticorrosion finish, try applying a metallic aluminium first and then cover it with thin coats (up to 3) of Tamiya Clear Blue and Clear Green mixed to your proportions 70/30. (The finish was a tinted clear coat applied over bare aluminium, so this replicates that finish very well.) Most modellers' metallic blue-green paints available are all opaque mixes, so only approximate the look. Some better than others. Hope this is of some help. By the way, did you know that the Hamp (A6M-3 Model 32) was not very popular with its pilots or the IJNAF in general. There were 2 main reasons - First the uprated engine drank fuel and it was the shortest ranged Zero produced, even with a drop tank. Secondly, despite the clipped wings improving its rate of roll, it also lost top speed owing to the reduced lift area of the clipped wings. Mitsubishi then produced another A6M-3 model, the Type 22, which restored the wingtips to the extended types, folding, and increased fuel capacity by adding wing tanks. The Model 22 (Named to associate it with the A6M-2 Type 21) was the longest ranged Zero of all types! And it was very popular, the extend that more type 22s were produced than type 32s. (over 1200 opposed to about 500.). That may be the Old Tamiya kit from the 1970s , but you have done it more than Justice. Superb Work. The new (2018?) Tamiya A6M-3 kit is of a Model 22, BTW.
Some of this is a nonsense. The A6M3 Model 32 had a higher speed than the A6M2b Model 21. Importantly when considering it in the context of US fighters of the same period, e.g. Wildcat, P-40, it had a significntly increased dive speed. It also had a two-speed supercharger which meant it had and maintained higher performance at altitude. Circular 1 on 1 dogfighting was obsolete in terms of combat efficiacy by 1943 given than the US used diving hit and run or 'Thatch Weave' tactics thus avoiding fighting with the Zero in a turning azimuth contest at all costs as they'd lose to any model Zero including the Model 32. All things being equal (aerofoil) a higher wing loading (clipped wings less area) will make the aircraft faster not slower. Less drag. Lift coefficient comes into play in terms of importance climbing and turning. The comment about reduced fuel range is true, but due to the significantly reduced fuselage tank capacity. The wing tanks capacity was actually increased, but overall the aircraft carried significantly less fuel internally. That said, the engine didn't "drank fuel". Aircraft aren't flown at combat power 100% of the time. Leaned to best range cruise consumption, altitude dependent at reduced (cruise) power I very much doubt the Sakae 21's fuel consumption was much if at all higher than that of the Sakae 12. I'd have to see the fuel/power performance charts to verify. And just over a 20% max rated power increase from the Sakae 12 to 21 in essentially the same weight airframe is nothing to be sneezed at in terms of overall performance -other than top speed which is a pretty vague & simplified reference reference for the Wikipedia layperson. The particular Achilles' Heel for the Model 32 was its necessary redeployment from Rabaul after the Japanese lost Wewak in May and Lae in September 1943. Land based out of PNG fighting local forces in Port Morsby et al, range wasn't an issue. All that said, the A6M3 Model 22 was clearly an improved variant than the A6M2 Model 21 or A6M3 Model 32 as history illustrates. However, also pertinent, the introduction of the turbo-supercharged P-38 into the Pacific Theatre in mid 1942 had given all Zeros a wake-up call, particularly at altitude. And just months after the Model 22's introduction, all Zeros (much as I love the type 0) were outclassed by newer US types coming on line. e.g. Marine Corsairs from Feb 43, and the Navy's superlative Hellcat from Sept 43. P.S. You can buy aotake, or at least used to be able to. Lifecolor UA 136.
in building IJN (and IJA) WWII planes, you should be aware that the above comment and the companion comment (re "nonsense") are utterly incorrect.And simplistic.Japanese planes( including of course the A6 variations) show that a plane could bear 3 or even 4 aotake variants.Even if 1 color off the production line, partial or greater repainting painting could occur in the "field." Secondly, and surprisingly under appreciated), during the last 2 yrs of the Pacific war, the Japanese were running out of EVERYTHING, including paint and its component chemicals.So again, variation occurred.Complicating matters is surviving archetypes have not necessarily been painted exactly as original.Whenever people make pronouncements that are intended by their writers to be authoritative & cast with an air of certainty,as with the case with the three commentators on colors here, regard all such statements with great skepticism.Ask them politely for their sources, if any.Always best to do your own research, and with the vast availability of resources, that can be a very enjoyable endeavor too.Dont merely rely on those eager to lecture you on the "right way".These people are often wrong.Very wrong.And in the end, you may find that YOU were right all along.
Really nice kit, this is my first aircraft model kit and it was fun. But I accidentally broke around 3 parts for the landing gear, I glued them but I had to legit snip off a part for the front landing gear because that broke in half completely and there was no recovery for it… If anyone gets this kit, just be aware of the landing gear covers and the entire front landing gear because those parts can break extremely easily. I still recommend this model if you want an F-4J