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I have a 2017 Dodge Challenger and I do not understand this reset with the acceleration pedal method. I did see the correction comment for the "On" and not run the motor when the pedal is pressed down. I get that. Though is "On" actually "Run" without the engine running? There's only three modes to my Challenger; "Off", "Acc", and "Run." But what do you mean by the "tachometer sweeps once"? Nothing happened to my tachometer when I followed these steps. What am I missing?
Most tyre manufacturers claim that you should always put your best tyres on the rear so isn't it best to wear out the front tyres and then rotate rears tyres to the front and put 2 new tyres at the back? Assuming the tracking is fine and the front tyres are wearing evenly I can't see how rotating tyres more often would save any money unless you get a discount for buying 4 tyres at once let alone the need for jacking up both sides of the car every 5,000 miles or so.
I'm changing my oil pressure sensor today its 23 years old. The engine is running fine except for some engine fluctuations now and then I hope it's not the oil pump .
Mine is the weirdest rn..the slave....the clutch pedal feels amazing...ive bled it properly...the car will good for a few days then the next day won't go into gear...no fluids leaking deom the bottom
Would like to see a postmortem on a failed VVT solenoid. Complete discretion of a failed VVT part actuating it with external 12 v source, blowing air through the passages, etc.
Hey i’m from the Netherlands and i drive a 2016 BMW 218i active tourer with an 1.5 3cilinder turbo engine. With an automatic transmission. ( this car is not sold in america) It got a start-stop system. And at every stopping light i use it. Only not in heavy traffic with allot of stop and go, that i turn the system off. And the bmw dealership where i bought it told me that it needs oil changes every 18000 kilometers or 2 years (normaly it’s 10.000 or 1 year). They said it’s normal for this car.
Everything in this video is why it's foolish for automakers to build turbo engines for fuel savings. If having a 1.5L turbo gives you an extra 2-3 mpg's, what do you really gain if you have to idle the engine to warm it up and cool it down, spend more for higher octane gas, and change the oil more frequently? Having a turbo engine only makes sense if you're using it for high performance. Turbos make zero sense when used to compensate for tiny underpowered engines.
If the engine is running you can't put your gas pedal to the floor. It could blow the engine. If you hold the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor for 15 seconds
My car's coolant is almost at the middle, should I add a little more? Or that's not a problem? The mechanic used Prestone, the one that needs water. But the coolant went down a bit.
Almost all cars with a smell I had was this : The airconditioner is used and when stopping the vehicle the cold air in the AC pipes condenses in the hot engine bay - this causes "mold" in the AC pipes - if the car is started without the AC being on, it then smells like rotten eggs. Products do exist to fix this.
I have a 2013 nissan latio it usto have stalling and limp mode, eventually it stall and can’t start back when the ignition turn on the cooling fan comes on car crank but no start.when the mechanic scan it the ecu is not communicating and he said its popping the fuse so they are gonna change the bcm and if the problem still accure they go a head and change the ecu…. what you think?
Good morning from Greece! Congratulations for your video. I have Hyundai tucson 08' 2000cc turbo diesel. The best oil is 15w40 , 10w40 or 5w40 the engine have overhaul, 0 miles.
One more tip I have seen: When removing the plastic/foil seal under the oil bottle cap, be careful not to let any of it fall into the engine. There has been instances where a tiny piece blocked an oil feed hole causing overhead valvetrain components to wear prematurely.
I thought it was better to drive the car instead of letting it idle after cold start up. Not drive it hard but just normal driving. Heats up faster. I have never let my car idel for 30sec-1min after driving. Modern cars are built very different than older ones. My 15 Evo X hasn't had any issues at all.
The problem with fusable links is that they are usually buried in the bowels of the engine. They should be on top. And it should be obvious if they’ve blown.
Been there done that. Started pouring the new oil in, but forgot to re-install the sump plug. It's a good way to spontaneously learn a new set of expletives 🤬 🤬 🤬 🤬
05 volvo s60 2.5t I put new ball joints tie rods control arms and end links two weeks ago prior in May fixed the pass cv axle I had a shake before any of the fixes. I got new tires last may it sat till may this year granite ik the tires can get flat spots but brand new tires? I fixed the front suspension got the alignment done twice and balanced two times and is till get a shake in the front right. Shop is stating that the rim is bent which could eb from sitting.. but I don't understand how the rim could be bent but the tire doesn't have a flat spot...
I drove my CLS55 AMG up to 220k miles on original coils when I sold it. Good quality coils don’t fail because there is nothing to fail except over current or short
It doesn't help getting rid of vibration from unbalanced tyres if the tyre shop you go to doesn't maintain their balanced device. I was despairing of getting rid of the vibration on my car after a local balanced all 4 wheels and things didn't smooth out. I went to another outfit to get someone else to give it a go( the definition of stupid is to keep doing exactly the same thing over and over, expecting a different outcome!) They found 1 wheel 50grams out, 1at 30grams and 2at 20grams. The car then drove smoothly.
start the engine, remove the ice if needed, finish your cigarette, turn on your seat or steering wheel heating system and chill. maybe put on your seat belt, your phone, plug in the cable for music... after 30s of idle the oild should be EVERYWHERE. if not buy a oil with a lower viscosity then 15w. 0-5w are super thin when cold, the engine gets lubricated very fast, with thicker oil like only 10w at least one one specific test engine it took 3x as long, 27ish seconds. now imagine running 15w50 in your diesel truck. have fun mate. just turn it on, prepare yourself while the engine idles and then you are fine, jsut dont floor it, rather rev 500 or 1000 higher (esp on gasoline engines, they are already pretty revy compared to diesels which also want a bit higher rpm. more rpm maybe les efficient - faster warm up more rpm means less torgue, (boost,) and load for the oilfilm and engine parts. you shouldnt hit redline but driving 1200rpm at trash oilpressure with 80% load in 5th gear up a hill aint better so... just go soft, like... i dont know you choose it yourself-