what happened to the welding in of the panel? this is like one of those home improvement shows where they leave out all the crucial infor about how the job was done
Try and rent a Tesla next road trip and do a comparison video. Easy to sit here in the comments and blah blah Tesla chargers are better, but once you experience them yourself, they really are the best. Hopefully you had fun on your road trip!
The Charge Point charger is considered AC charging while the Tesla chargers and the dealership charger were DC charging. If you hop in the car and look at the dash, it will show you the amount of KW that it's accepting. It will top out at 150kW plus or minus. We've owned our Polestar 2 since February and love it! If your software is up to date, the onboard google maps will do an excellent job of finding you chargers. Ours however is behind and we're several hundred miles from a Polestar place so I tend to use PlugShare to research current charging locations.
Good for you, trying an EV. It is gross malfeasance that the rental company didn't show you how to charge, and what the parts of the charge port are. Obviously you discovered how to use DC fast charging, but you not being told of what the charging port constitutes, is bad customer service. That first charger you were using was level 2 charging (using the J1772 round plug), and you were only getting 240volt A/C output, probably getting 6kw per hour. I hope you had a good trip, and despite the rental company's disregard, you consider an EV trip again, in the future.
Yeah it seems the state of charging in the US is shockingly bad unless you have a Tesla, they basically have a monopoly. Completely different story here in Europe. Tesla network is pretty slow compared to Ionity, most Tesla chargers are 150-250kw whereas almost all ionity chargers are 350kw. So if you have a Porsche taycan that can take 315kw to 60% and 290 until 70% then you'd want to avoid charging at Tesla. That said, the new polestars can take around 200kw, old ones take up to 150kw and so can the Tesla network is fine, but I'd rank Ionity as #1 due to the better speed and then Tesla a very close 2nd. Also Tesla uses CCS 2 in Europe just like every other car, not sure about CCS 1 but CCS 2 supports auto pay and a lot of networks here in the UK now support it. Even older polestars now support it, so you could just plug in a polestar and it would automatically start charging and bill you without needing any authentication. Just like Teslas do. Charging has changed so much in the last year, let alone 2 or 3 years
@@iambenmitchell especially in france ! there's a law that says there must be a fast charging station anywhere there's a gas station on the highway ! Also all the prices are way less high
Don't think so, & you'd be getting a u-join instead of a CV. I have a CV shaft on my 2017 & it needs replacement for the last 3000 miles, but I just keep using it on the farm. Mostly low range under 10mph. I got 7500 mi on it now & over 2200 hrs. 1of these yrs. I'm gonna change it. I heard to take the under carriage of & go at it that way. IDK but you have to remove a little brace then replace it afterwards, sound like you can make one & bolt it on drill a couple holes.
This seems to be a common rust area on pickups ....I see Chevies, Dodges/Rams, and Fords, often less than 10 years old with rust and rot above the rear wheel wells.
A better idea would have been for you to have refrain from repairing this truck. It's a total loss. Today's cars are contracted in a complex way that limits repairability. You probably know now why the others turned down repairing this truck. I'm sorry the wrecking yards took advantage of you on the cab and door. You've put a lot of your own money into parts you may not be able to use. Through no fault of your own you're in over your head. I hope you had an understanding with the owner of the truck that he would compensate you for the time and money you've put into a n unsuccessful repair The deal is that the owner's wrecked truck really should have been sold to a scrap yard for a parts truck instead of buying parts from wrecked trucks to repair this truck. Perhaps you didn't know what you were getting into. It's a shame but anyone can look at this truck and see that it's unrepairable. What was the owner thinking?
I HAVE DONE 4800 FEET OF HEAVY ELECTRIC CABLING FROM THE COUNTRY HOUSE IN THE DEEP WOODS TO THE COUNTY ROAD IN TRENCH DEEPER THEN 36 " BY CODE , AND PASSING THE CABLE THROUGH 2" PCV PIPE WAS NOT HARD AT ALL i LAY THE CABLES FROM WHERE THE ELECTRIC POLE WAS TO BE INSTALLED , ALONG THE AGE OF THE TRENCH ONE END TO OTHER , WITH THE CABLE'S ON ON A SPOOL ROLL OFF AS I PULL THEN I CLAMPED AND TAPE THE END OF THE CABLE'S TO THE END OF A 10 FOOT 1/2" REBAR AND I THREAD THE PVC PIPES ON ONE AT A TIME AS I WALK THEM END TO END THEN I GLUE THE PVC 'S TOGETHER. LOTS OF WALKING BACK AND FORTH BUT WAS NO HEADACHE. I HAD THE TRENCH DUG WITH MY KUBOTA L3750 18" BUCKET ON BACKHOE AND AFTER THE INSPECTION I CLOVER IT 2 FEET THEN I TROUGH IN THE WARNING RED PLASTIC TAPE ONE END TO OTHER AND COVER THE REST , AFTER ALL THAT I NAILED A 5 FEET REBAR AT EVERY 50 FEET WITH A WELD IT ON METAL WARNING SIGN INDICATING THERE IS HI VOLTAGE ELECTRIC CABLE UNDER GROWN AND WELL DONE .
What an absolute piss poor example of product design!!! 😂😂😂it would rate top 10 in hilarious videos I have watched if it wasn’t for the fact that I needed it to figure out how to change the batteries in the same helmet… Thank you so much!!!❤ Certainly rates in the top 10 worst purchases I have ever made!
For 250 feet it's best to use fiber optic cable. If you don't need descent speed then cat5e is fine but if you want good speed you want the 10G LC to LC fiber optic burial cable. That will also optically isolate your devices which can save you a lot of money in the event of a power surge.
as a detailer... i have kept my stepdads 2011 1500 as clean as possible in maine.. i wash it more than anyone does... and still couldnt stop the rear fenders from rusting out.. only surface rust now... but im gonna wire wheel everything.. then bondo a bit on the outside and ave paint matched paint.. gonna wire brush the inside and use a primer, then some good undercoating for the inside fenders... hopefully it will look good and last more than 10 years
That would make it look better for a while, I don’t think 10 years though, it may last a little longer using duraglass or Everglass instead of bondo, it’s a little more waterproof , thanks for stopping by
