I have a 6.4. I had cylinder 4 changed out because it was causing spuddering. I also had cylinder 8 glo plug replacedand the flo plug harness, once i got it back and i ran it everything was fine, untill the engine warmed up, now i have non stop white smoke feom the exhaust. Would you happen to know or have a idea why this would happen?
Federal brass primer pockets are slightly larger than most. I use their brand of primers in their brass. When I have other brands of brass that primers go in to easy. I try federal primers. If the pocket is tight. Brass colored Winchester primers. I have also had problems with Federal brass being too soft. Neck tension is weak.
1/8, 3/8, 7/16, 5/32 drill bits for most for the pocket and pin holes and 1/2 if the rear shelf isn't milled. For milling you need a 3/8 square end endmill at least 3" length for the pocket and 1/4 at least 2.5" length for the trigger slot.
I got no check engine light truck starts but runs rough replace all sensors just about idm was also bad got fixed can’t seem find issue gonna go threw the wires
Newer jigs have come a long way from this one. Unless you have a laser drill press and a fixture, it will drill off center and then the bit won't have enough purchase for the next row, resulting in alternating metal walls.
So that's how the tool is removed. You should've just pulled the heads and installed studs and gaskets. To do a branch tube job on a headbolted 6-liter??? I think you enjoy self inflicted pain.
You should have Just Got a upper Instead of doing that The analyzing Is the feed ramps strength If a bullet rides On those cuts you made It could cause problems Possibly jams in the future and Failure feed I would get a new upper a cheap one from anderson or something I would take the Barrel Off the gun And polish And cut the feed ramps on the barrel only To the new upper But never Cut on the aluminum Inside the upper and never polish it
to replace new injector and then programming is through IQA codes or the 20 digits that is on the injector top? I'm replacing new injector on the 6.7L power stroke and I just got the S/N & IQA codes. Thanks!!
I’m having trouble finding the dimensions I should go with. I have the aluminum 80 ar lower and the polymer jig they sell but can’t find the depths/dimensions any place.
So the jigs that I have didn’t come with instructions but mine came with a piece of paper stating that for instructions please go to our website to see how to do it maybe you got a little piece of paper saying that?
@@Thogerton thanks for the reply. After a lot of asking apparently any place selling these (80 lowers / jogs) aren’t allowed to provide instructions but here’s what I got so far. The ar fire control group is 1.5” deep and sometimes the end mill bit that comes with the jig will be marked how deep to go. I’m not sure if my bit is marked but I did get the 1.5” dimension so it should be fairly easy if I don’t go deeper than that. It’s 1.5” deep from the top edge of the lower not including the jig height also. Good luck with your build bro!
Polymer jig? Polymer jig is for polymer lowers, metal for metal. Pocket is 1.25" deep, not 1.5, but it doesn't have to be exact, cause even factory lowers can be off and they work fine. Helps if you get one with depth gauges too.
Oil seal failed on turbo resulting in oil in the exhaust, once it gets above the Flashpoint, it will ignite. This isn't the same as a "run away" because it would have to have failed on the intake side of the turbo. This failure was common due to regen where the ecm injects fuel during the exhaust stroke to raise EGT to burn off the DPF. This unfortunate get the exhaust so hot that it eventually wipes out the turbo and if you don't catch it, you will run the engine out of oil.
Thanks for posting the cost as well. What a pain in the ass job. I bet your back hurts for 3 days afterwards. $3800 and special torque procedure on the fuel pump. Wow
That stance tho lmfao don’t be scared to bend your leg alittle and space them out to get a good balance. Looks like the wind can knock you down at this point 😂🤦♂️
That tar in the turbo is from not deleting the EGR. Delete the EGR right back to the passenger side up pipe. Then install a catch can and keep that maintained. If you don't delete the DPF you will increase the Life of the DPF and internal parts of the engine. I believe the DPF is a failed attempt at emission control due to the regen process and lack of fuel economy. A well-maintained diesel engine running at the proper temperature will be better for the environment. What are the exhaust emission Reading's during regen and add the extra fuel economy of 5+ miles per gallon? During Regen owning a Ford truck is embarrassing.
I have a 2010 f250 6.4,,, And is been giving a lots of problems related to turbos,,, the oil indicator light came on , so i went and changed the oil pressure/temperature sensors ,then i took my truck for a ride and it ran smooth for a couple of miles , But same light can back on again , then i ent and do the process again , but this time i also replaced the map/AIT sensor too, including oil pressure/temperature ,, and also turbos , truck ran ok for a while (though didnt get much boost from turbos ) this time my truck ran longer until the oil indicator light came back on again , but managed to drive back home , though white smoke kept coming out of the exhaust , same thing happened before i replaced this turbos ,,, oh i got a code P0179A is about power to turbo actuator circuit , ,,,
I have a 2010 f250 6.4,,, And is been giving a lots of problems related to turbos,,, the oil indicator light came on , so i went and changed the oil pressure/temperature sensors ,then i took my truck for a ride and it ran smooth for a couple of miles , But same light can back on again , then i ent and do the process again , but this time i also replaced the map/AIT sensor too, including oil pressure/temperature ,, and also turbos , truck ran ok for a while (though didnt get much boost from turbos ) this time my truck ran longer until the oil indicator light came back on again , but managed to drive back home , though white smoke kept coming out of the exhaust , same thing happened before i replaced this turbos ,,, oh i got a code P0179A is about power to turbo actuator circuit , ,,,
@@finnanutyo1153 Bro just get a Easy Jig gen 3 or 5D tactical Jig... They come out better equal to or better than oem if you follow directions. Its dummy proof.
I don't think you want to drop it in the water, as fast cooling causes the brass to harden and make it brittle again. I think you're supposed to let it cool slowly in ambient air.
Bingo this has been the only video that’s showing the exact noise my truck is making. I highly suspected it was the turbo. Truck was extremely under powered luckily where it happened I was only a mile to the shop I just let it kinda coast. Truck was not happy at all
Hope you're well bro...I've been off most social media except Twitter now, and TikTok...just checking in on you..This summer I'm going to try to make some more vids...I bought a house in Nevada, been exploring and shooting there.. take care bro.
Bro, your sound quality is awful. Call get a cheap microphone Khoma even some headphones with a mic will do. It’ll give you much better sound quality for your videos.
Hahaha yeah i work on this trucks for 22 years than I have been working on since when someone calls me back on ford 6.0 6.4 or ford i said i have a lot of work can you take it to the dealer i have no time for the next few months sorry
Making match grade ammo is about maximizing consistency and accuracy, not case longevity. There's no telling when a case will become corrupted. When I make 300 Blackout or 300 HAM'R brass from .223, I form/size the brass twice. Once that new case has been fired, I resize it once then move the process along.
