Cut up some acrylic sheet for dust covers cause your models are really worth protecting; Stanley blade will cut it ; I have a table saw but companies out there can do covers in Perspex very reasonable for THAT special model
Scale-model-workshop. ; check him out he proper professional; thought U would appreciate; he wonderful for inspiration; really enjoying jenesis You really are talented and really looking forward to your progress, your pal Bren
Ah I just heard your theory about blunter blade , ooops , and panel by panel , actually was gonna suggest that as butting up edged wound simulate real thing , anyway sharp blades we go easy with first pass ( with most other tasks)
Keep it up ur a natural, will b watching, subscribed ; any questions U are welcome, from ur pal Bren ; hog warts for first potter movie ...cars for Bond And my first ( easy to find on credits) " the Borrowers " perhaps I may get round to helping others out too one day on you tube , but seriously please enjoy and keep it up and anything doing your head In , (cause boy I can remember ) only need to ask
Thanks for the look. I will have to keep an eye out for prices on this - one of the 'Go To's' that I use here in the U.S. have it at $36 USD. But maybe I might have some luck on that big auction site or Yard Sales/Bin finds.
I've always thought the SMS colors looked amazing. I've used the AK Real Color, but the original acrylic/lacquer formulation. I also haven't use Mr.Paint...but again they seem really nice (I remember Phil Flory's review). My biggest issue is my workshop is in my basement and I don't have an extractor to use with my airbrush to vent the "dangerous" fumes outside...and I'm married to a bloodhound who can tell if I've sprayed more than 5 seconds with ANY lacquer paint). So for me it's 99% Acrylic (Vallejo Model Air) or Tamiya Acrylic/Lacquer (I seem to be able to get by with those). I'm thinking of building an extractor that exhausts into a closed bucket (as shown on Barbaros Rex's channel). Thanks for the review.
Thanks much, Jen! Your "Bare Naked Build" shows virtually all the necessary & sufficient steps to a avoid the inherent challenges in building this kit. The superlative "finished" product you obtain is both the result of your skill at understanding & correcting each problem that presents itself, but also proves that Revell did not mold in significant design flaws, but instead molded sufficient plastic to allow fitment with minimal gaps.😉 I'm sure this careful fitting of parts will take on extra significance when layers of paint are "factored in." A build of a kit like this reminds me so much of building fine furniture cabinetry; the superlative fit & finish is absolutely the result of sandpaper and precise fitment!
Hoping Airfix can replace a complete tree C from this kit as just opened mine to check it. Tree C looks like it was injected into a “dirty mould” possible residual plastic left in it. Each and every part is heavily pitted. Did consider filler might resolve things but its going to take forever trying to do that. Airfix have acknowledged my request but up to 28 day wait and that is if the parts are available. :-(
This was a great video. Thumbs it. Just a correction: The AK RC line was reformulated shortly after release to be a pure lacquer. The original formula was attempting to compete with Tamiya/Aqueous with some kind of alcohol/enamel acrylic and was poorly received. RC has been a regular lacquer for a long while now and the new RC line is the same product; all they did was change the bottle and expand the range of aircraft colours. I believe they also add a chemical in it to change the smell on purpose, which is why it smells different (sweet).
Apologies but…regarding the mask recommendation at the end. Not just ANY mask is suitable. The correct choice is one with filters rated for organic gasses, - activated carbon (charcoal) filters. These are needed when spraying lacquers, enamels, alcohol based acrylics like Tamiya or Mr. Hobby Aqueous and any kind of 2K clear (the most dangerous of all). The VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) produced by spraying these paints will float right past any particulate filter and into your lungs. They are dangerous. Here in the U.S. the ideal choice is a 3M 6000 or 7000 series respirator equipped with 60921, 60923, 60925 or 60926 filter cartridges, which are 6001 series organic vapor filters with P100 particulate filters stacked on top. I have no idea what the U.K. equivalent is. This of course combined with proper spraybooth extraction to the outside. Additionally, if you own one of these respirators they usually come in a large ziplock bag. This is so you can reseal the mask and filters when not in use, as exposure to ambient air will shorten the lifespan of the carbon filters - they’re always capturing VOCs out of the air, even normal air pollution. They become saturated and no longer effective. As a matter of fact, 3M recommends discarding any carbon filter three months after it’s been unsealed, regardless of it’s been used or not. Obviously they’re covering themselves because they’re often used in environments a lot more toxic than our modeling bench, but it’s safe to assume they DO in fact have a lifespan.
No need to apologise. I did mean a filter mask, and mentioned filters, but wasn't super specific. My own mask was out in the garage at the time or I'd have shown it. But yes, a cartridge mask is what I was referring to. Don't go along thinking that's ok with 2K stuff though please. Anything that contains isocyanates should be used with air fed breathing equipment - the fact that stuff is even available to hobbyists blows my mind honestly.
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft organic filters can stop isocyanates but the problem with that is the safe exposure limit is surpassed before you smell anything. So, the filter may not be doing anything and you have no way of knowing. The only safe option is to use new filters every time you spray the stuff.
If anyone is reading the comment section and wondering what on earther we're on about, I'll drop this link here to a document from 3M Tech about mask use and Isocyanate based products - multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/777847O/isocyanates-3m-techupdate.pdf
My understanding is the Real Color formula is unchanged. They did however switch from an alcohol acrylic formula to a full lacquer about two years after they were originally released. I think the change happened in 2019 or so. AK is notorious for this. Their Xtreme Metal line switched from enamel to lacquer last year.
That's the picture I've been getting from the comments section. I was also unaware that Extreme Metal has changed, although I'd have likely picked up on it in use. Is it for the better? I actually liked the enamel version...
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft I have AK 477 Chrome in lacquer and I was able to rub it off just by handling the model. I prefer Mr. Super Metallics, which don’t shine like the AK or a hi-shine Alclad aluminum, but are extremely durable.
Great review Jen.... just 1 observation... the new AK Real Color fit perfectly in racks that take Ammo by Mig, Hataka, Valejo, or AK 3rd Gen paint bottles.
Of the 60 or so different SMS colours that I have got, I have only ever had to thin one of them, and that only required a tiny amount. Being in New Zealand, SMS is not too expensive as it only has to come from Australia. But another advantage I've found is that it covers so well that I rarely have to spray it in more than one session. I haven't tried the other 2 brands that you tested though. I'm very happy with the SMS and my collection of colours is continuously growing.
Detailed at the beginning of the video, the airbrush is an Iwata Revolution CR, which has a 0.5mm needle, and I'm using about 35psi at the compressor. I have an inline MAC valve adapter in the airline and adjust pressure to suit using that.
I use SMS paint almost exclusively now as my local model shop in New Zealand stocks the full range. They are excellent paints. I put a stainless steel ball in most of mine as the pigments settle out quite quickly. I have a vortex mixer to make shaking them easier. They are not too hard to shake by hand though. I never have to use a stirrer. I always use the SMS primers as these are really good as well. The high gloss clear is superb. They don't make a satin clear so you have to mix your own with flat and gloss (normal gloss, not the high gloss). I have had a few issues with the flat and satin getting white spots from the talc separating out. This occurs in cold weather or when it is very humid, so I now mostly use Tamiya lacquer flat and satin as these very rarely have any problems. The SMS metallic range is very nice. There is a great range of metallics like stainless steel, aluminium, copper, various golds and many others.
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft Yeah, they do separate out quite a lot, so I can understand you giving them a stir. As for opacity, I painted white over the top of Prussian blue and it covered completely in one spray session (probably 3-4 coats in one session).
Thanks for taking the time to do the video Jen and offering us some feedback on our paints. Whilst we try and make our paints airbrush ready as much as we can, everyone's setups and spray styles are different so while they work great for some, they might not work as well for others. We totally get that, which is why we often suggest that if you find the paint to be a little too thick for your liking, then adding extra thinner won't hurt at all. Adding 10 to 15% more thinner in some cases can result in a much smoother finish, but the trade off is that it then becomes less opaque meaning that more coats are needed to get full coverage. It's a balancing act that we are trying to perfect, so your results as shown in this video are going to be taken on board so we can further refine and adjust our paints to be better. Keep up the great content! 😀
It varies by colour, I didn't need to thin the PRU Blue, and the RLM 74 didn't need a lot. I do enjoy using the paint, and will continue to, because the need to thin it doesn't worry me - it's good stuff!
Hi Jen. Thank you so much for this comparison vid! The health & safety aspect is often underestimated in modeling. We are dealing with lots of toxic/harmfull stuff here like resin dust, paint particles, fumes etc. So I always use a mask, an extractor, gloves and eye protection when spraying paints, regardless of the type. I use MRP, Hataka, GSI, Tamyia and AK RC laquers, depending on the needs. I spent a lot of time on testing for the right mixing ratios, needle sizes, airbrush types and pressure settings. MRP gives great results straight from the bottle. Downside is the disgusting smell that is present in the room despite the use of an extractor, even hours after use and window opened. Same applies for GSI and their leveling thinners and Tamyia and their laquer thinners. So despite good spraying results I rarely use these three. Hataka orange line laquers and the their thinners are less smelly. Spraying results are adequate, but not brilliant. AK RC provide great results but require 40-60% thinners, depending on if you use black basing , pre shading or if sprayed full coverage. When using their thinners the smell is the lowest and quickest vanishing of all. It took me a while to get them to work to my needs and standards. Now I use them almost exclusively. As far as I know the "old" and "new" RC colors are basicly the same formula and consistency. I have both and they smell and work just the same. Only the bottles seem to have changed. All this is just my personal experience and opinion and we all have different needs, expectations and working conditions like temerature, humidity and room size which can influence the results massively. Thanks again, Jen and happy modeling to all of you!
@@thomasfischer6597 Yes, it seems from the comments here like AK changed the RC formula at some point in between the ones I had originally and these new ones. Begs the question why they've bothered with a complete relaunch and repackage now doesn't it.
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft It's all about company politics and the mechanisms of advertisement, I guess. Waking needs and playing with customers expectations. With so many "new" products popping up daily in the modeling world, the companies have to create "unique selling points" to stay in the top ranks. That's why it's so important that people like you and us in the modeling comunity go public with our experiences and analysises 😉
@@thomasfischer6597 correct, that is why we clearly state on our labels the safety precautions that should be taken. Even though the exposure is minimal, the risk is still there and should be taken seriously.
Between the spontaneous Siri rant and the malted milk biscuit, a highly entertaining video. Thanks as always for the matter of fact, deft demonstrations of technique, I never fail to learn something.
I don't know, but none of them will be good. I think in purely VOC terms AK might be better as they are using a different solvent (smell test). But that's a guess on my part..
I mainly use Mr Color and Colorcoats enamels for spraying, though with Sovereign Hobbies now quitting producing paint I will be using acrylic lacquers more now. I'm not sure I'm that keen on paints that are pre-thinned as if you want to paint a small bit with a brush it's too thin. I don't know why AK went with those bottles for the new real colors. I would have preferred the styles of bottle that Ammo are using with the Atom paints - a lid with a small hole/dropper in that you can unscrew and have the full diameter access to the paint in the bottle.
I've got about 15 tins of Colourcoats enamels which I've now shelved since they are no longer in production. I'm now more aware of paint manufactures longevity and leaning more towards tamiya acrylics even though I have a selection of MRP. I am tempted to try Xtracolour but not sure if it's worth using enamels anymore since I used colourcoats due to their accuracy.
Great video to show the comparison. AK really messed up their Real Colors range. When first released they were some weird hybrid that you could thin with water. I had a set from this period and, like you, I thought they were naff. They smelled weird (like almonds from memory) and sprayed terribly using various different thinners. AK then changed the formula to a pure lacquer type similar to Mr Color paints but frustratingly didn't tell anyone (much to the chagrin of those who were thinning with water and had a nasty gloopy surprise waiting for them). They didn't mark it in any way on the packaging either. I have some of these "second edition" Real Colors too and they spray just like the one in your test so I think the only real change is the new bottle. On a technical basis I did like the few SMS I've sprayed but I found their rendition of RLM74/75/76 to be awful. I have no idea what reference chips they were basing it off. Their RAF colours may be much better but I'm not too fussed to find that out as the MRP RAF range is already bang on to my eye. MRP are still the best in my view. I exclusively work in 1/72 and the detail you can get from them thinned down slightly with MLT in a 0.18mm airbrush is second-to-none.
The Real Colors I have were some of those early ones, and for obvious reasons I never bought any more. You comment probably explains why so many modellers enjoy the stuff - I have often wondered why based on my experience with the original ones!
Hi. I am Thomas from Germany and I enjoy your Videos very much. Now I ordered the Airfix Mustang with all the additions. I am looking forward to get started to build this kit with you.
Very interesting video seeing the differences with these paints. Never used MRP paints, tend to stick with SMS and Mr Hobby (although i do find Mr Hobby dries out in the jar and has to be reactivated with the liquid they sell for this). Not tried them as yet but do have the new AK RCS119 US Air Force real colour set. Box states “Lacquer based paints recommended for airbrush use. Dilute with RC701/RC702 thinners”.
I agree with you Jen on that all 3 are very good paints and there is not much in it and it comes down to exactly what you said, personal preference. Regarding the Dropper bottles and not being good for putting paint back into the bottle, well I only recently saw a trick for this. The remaining paint that is in your airbrush, you squeeze the dropper bottle letting air out then tip the bottle into your airbrush and let go of the squeeze and the bottle will suck up all the remaining paint, was quite surprised when I saw it done , but thought id mention it as its all about sharing tips & tricks with each other as we never ever stop learning which is one part of the hobby I love, learning new things about our awesome hobby. I also Wanted to ask you if you have any intentions of possibly testing Outlaw paints which is fairly new to the UK but ive tried them over a few months and Ive been blown away by them and as you seem to be quite the fan of airbrush ready paints, well these are also airbrush ready. Would love to see you doing a test on them, thanks, Chris.
I couldn't get hold of any Outlaw paint for this, and it doesn't seem that easily available here. If it becomes easier I will probably feature it at some point. I like the dropper bottle hint, will give that a try. What I tend to do though, is put it into different containers, so for eg. my Sky will end up in a Tamiya Sky jar once that runs out.
Despite being more expensive, the Mr Color is actually better value as, unlike Tamiya Lacquer, which comes in nearly identical size containers, Mr Colour is NOT pre-thinned. In fact it is quite viscuous in the bottle, which means that you use less paint per session and the bottle lasts longer. Tamiya lacquer is thinned almost to airbrush standard (Not quite, but almost). The minus is you have to thin it yourself to the right flow consistency. I also use lacquers widely and on average I use 2-2.5 bottles of Tamiya Lacquer to 1 bottle of Mr Color, given the same color or not. I have recently been able to test out SMS, and it is great - the bigger bottle makes it good value. (My other main paint type is Enamel, which I tend to thin with Lacquer thinners anyway.) Very Old-School, I am!
Completely agree, Mr Color needs a ton of thinning and as such is probably the best value of all. I really like Tamiya lacquer also, and it is easier for me to obtain for the most part. The thing is, when thinned properly, they ALL spray like Mr Paint does, and lay down smooth. You really can't go wrong with any of them.
Hi! I've tested some years ago the MRPs and can honestly say that they were the best paints I've ever tried!... From the final surface quality standpoint, I mean. I was very impressed! Their rather weak covering power didn't bothered me at all. What did bother me were the colour shades they were supposed to represent. As I am a colour freak 😑, it would have meant to try and find the right recipe for the colours I needed... I was curious about the AK's "new" Real Colours... As a matter of fact I also did test the initial series of RC and my conclusion was that there were two types. The ones for AFVs, with translucent lids and red dot on the set boxes (like the one you were showing us), were more matt, rougher and brittle. I didn't like them. The other ones, for aviation, with black lids and blue dot on the set boxes, were much nicer, more resilient, with a silky, smooth finish. Very similar to Mr. Color C series. (Different smell though.) I did like them and AK was much closer to the indicated colour shades than MRP... The SMS were completely unknown to me. After many tests my go to paints are the C series from Mr. Color, not least because I can find them easily. AK's RC series (air colours) are close behind, although I didn't get to work with them extensively... Thank you for the test! 👍
Hi, great video tutorial. One question, is you mention the tryzac sanding sponge quite a lot but dont mention what grade it is, as I looked it up and just like sand paper it comes in loads of different grades, so wondering what grade of tryzac your using to feather the edge to remove the step in the paint, just so I can order the right grade number. My second question is regarding AK Paints, I was watching Flory Models as he reviewed them as well and he was in contact with the guys from AK paints and they assured him that the new paints are identical in every way to the older bottles, except they are now in the new dropper bottles, I think Phil Flory needed to know if the paint had changed in anyway with him being a model supply distributer so they are not airbrush thinned like the MRP or SMS and do need thinning and you can actually thin AK up to 70% thinners which is why I love them myself as you get loads more use out of them as they last much longer and work out very good in price seeing how much you can thin them, sorry for the long message. Thanks. Chris.
Hi Chris, apologies, you are quite right. The Trizact I use is P3000, search 3M Trizact and it will come up. I keep meaning to buy a set and test the others actually
Thank you, much appreciated. I'll order some as I keep hearing a lot of modellers mention it and swear by it. I do have some 3000 in other types of sandpaper but doesn't hurt to have other options
It isn't the same as mine, I saw a lot of comments saying it too. I found a quote from AK (among other messages) that fairly clearly states it is reformulated - "The new Real Colors paint range is a very special step forward for AK. AK Real Colors are state-of-the-art lacquer based paints developed in our own laboratories. Our goal was to create the highest quality paint with a chemical formula and color accuracy superior to other brands on the market."
Interesting to know AK has changed. Asked them a few times and they replied the formula was the same, just in a new bottle. I like the old AK RC as well. My second favourite paint after GSI aqueous.
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft my mom has the Google home stuff and Google is always talking back and answering random questions even if you don't start with "hey Google"
Hello Jen 🙂 Thank you again for making these very helpful videos, a pleasure to watch as always 🙂 I firmly believe in priming the model, figure, etc. before applying any colors. I use lacquers of almost all brands currently on the market. For me, they are the easiest and most reliable to work with from start to finish. I use Mr. Hobby/Mr. Color thinner for all lacquers, they respond well to it. Frankly, I prefer the 10ml. bottles over the eye dropper type AK Real Colors recently converted to. Keep the videos coming please! They are a great learning tool for this very experienced mediocre modeller 😂 Take care, Jim 😊
1t's down to supply isn't it ! Not always convenient to buy on line , I need to go into a shop to LOOK at them , therefore limited to Humbrol I'm afraid , I can't justify doing a round trip of 140 miles for paint >
I took another look at my copy of this kit (bought in October 2021) and mine, too, has the hairline mark on the clear canopy in exactly the same place as yours. Happily, the pilot isn't an amputee, though I did notice that while yours looks quite glossy and shiny (the pilot at least) mine is quite satin. This kit looks beautiful and if it fits together half as well as it looks I will be very happy :)
My pilot is definitely undernourished, I'm not planning on using the figure on this build though. Maybe I'll put him into advanced pilot care and get him fixed up lol
Looking forward to the build. I ordered the extras sense they seem to be not to complicated to use and have wanted to try using photo etch. The 3d panel does look really good.
