My name is Detrone and I focus on budget-friendly home improvements, everyday consumer tech and product reviews. I love trying new products, services and techniques, so I can create helpful content.
Hello my 2012 Nissan Versa completely went out on me. now a little backstory.. I’ve had the car for 3 1/2 years and when I got it I didn’t really keep up with it how I needed to , my 3rd coil and spark plug went out about a year ago, said I was gonna get it fixed but never got around to it, which threw on the check engine light, so about 3 months ago the car completely went out , no type of electricity at all, got a new battery, no power still, got coils and spark plugs for all 4, got new MAF sensor, now it’s power and drives but it stalls at idle and it had a rough idle a while before this happened what should I do? I miss Birtha (my car) 😂😂
There are a list of items that could potentially cause what you are experiencing… Is the MAF sensor installed correctly, since issues with the MAF can cause rough idles and stalling, but so can a bad fuel pump or bad fuel injectors. Do you still have a check engine light and if so, what are the codes? If it’s MAF related but you installed the MAF correctly, could have a vacuum leak of some sort especially if you addressed the coil pack issue.
Thank you for your feedback… unfortunately I can’t post the AM install yet because I incorrectly wired the replacement and blew the radio 😬… but a proper install is coming. Thanks for watching!
Thanks, was looking for the rears. Can't see how to get the tools in there to take off some of the bolts and then to retorque them. Would love to see another with rears.
I'm helped a friend fix his Lexus. R, x, it turns out it was the body E.C.U. It's underneath the steering wheel controls the power going to the screen and door lock.
Thanks for watching and sharing! This might be super useful so I’ll pin it to the top incase others are still trying to resolve their issue. Thanks again 🤜🏽💥🤛🏽
Thanks for the video. As a retired fire dept captain, one thing I noticed in the background was the smoke detector location. We always teach that it should never be closely adjacent to a corner, whether mounted on wall or ceiling, as that can be in a "dead air" space. I would recommend moving it out 18 - 24" from the wall. Also, since October is Fire Prevention Month, just a friendly reminder to: - test your smoke detectors once a month - change batteries when you change your clocks - teach your children, and the rest of the family, emergency escape plan, and do the drill!! - check expiration dates on your detectors!! They should be updated at least every ten (10) years (new technology, sensitivity, etc.) Sorry... old firefighter prevention habits never die!! 😊
Thanks for the helpful information. Luckily I test my detectors regularly when I install new air filters monthly, Kiddos know the escape plan and meeting points and my home is only 5 years only so hopefully they are not expiring anytime soon. I was unaware of the dead air space concept (here’s a quick definition from the internet for others who might also be curious👇🏽 “A dead air space is an area in which trapped hot air will prevent smoke from reaching the alarm. This space generally occurs at the apex of cathedral ceilings, the corner junction of walls and ceilings and between exposed joists etc.”) Thanks for watching and sharing tips!
I used a very unsophisticated method… I placed a small piece of wood toward the middle of the net at the bottom and generally the magnets sit on one side of the wood and it helps it stay in place… but that only worked about 50% of the time. Otherwise I have to manually hold it out as the garage door begins to lower. I always considered placing some weighted clips on the bottom but did not want to put too much pressure on the net. If you come up with a good idea, definitely come back and let me know.
Brother, bro⁉️ Three years when I got my 2009 Chevy express 3500 with the 6.0 vortex that was 6K I’m on the West Coast in Las Vegas. Purchased it in San Diego.
The engine was damaged I sold it for $700.😢 it worked good for 2 1/2 years but that was a big loss after putting a new tires to left and right arm control a steering box max fans so I understand the pain of losing cash.
After losing that a purchase a 2011 Ford Econoline for $1200 bucks with 200,000 miles on it total issues so I had to render it back to the guy who sold it to me, but that was a good deal!!!😅
So presently I have a 2011 Chevy express 4500 Duramax diesel with 230,000 miles on it purchase $4900. It was a Utah bus a little rust but the transmission engine is perfect. Third time charm.😊
Wow! You have had some interesting ones so far... I really do hope that 3rd time is the charm for you. I was bummed out by the money lost but I got a lot of valuable experiences from this process and if I had more land or a mobile career, I'd but another one in a heart beat. Thanks for watching and sharing your experiences.
🤙🏾Great job Guys 👍🏽I’m gonna have to handle mines maybe later on today. I have a 2011 Chevy express 4500 Duramax diesel shuttlebus. Thanks for sharing.
Hey! Im 13, or, about. This helped me not be so rebelious, having discord, more. I just even thought about the time limit, I mean, I dont know what it looks like when it gets timed out! Is there a way to see? And should I be concerned that I dont have alot of privacy-?
Did you change the mass air flow sensor or cleaned it? If you replace it, I do believe that Nissan suggest that you have it reprogrammed/Relearn process... That part I am less helpful with.
Hi just saying you’re breaking the air purifier by putting it next to the wall it says in the Manuel that keep it at least 1 foot away from objects all way around
I appreciate the tip, although I don't think that placement would break the air purifier (it's worked well for the last 2 years) , but I can agree it might not lend itself to optimal performance. As an update we did move the purifier to a different location now that my kiddos are familiar with not knocking it over. Thanks for sharing 👍🏾
Thank you, I appreciate the support! I dropped a link in the description if you decide to pick this up... I could make a commission on it (or not 🤣). Also they release an updated version of the PJ40 also, which looks pretty nice also.
There really not recommended mounted that low. Normal high bay UFO lights are hung 12ft and above. Your better off with a linear led fixture with a lens when mounting that low. The ufo will give intense light straight down and won’t provide much light anywhere else. I can see the dark area to your left. If that was mounted at 12 to 15 ft that whole area would be lit. Since you have about a 8 or 9 ft ceiling linear is the way to go can hang low or surface mount. You could yoke mount them high up up the wall with a slight tilt down.
I completely agree with you, in the full video I mention that this light is not ideally intended to be used the way I was displaying it, and that it's intended for a much larger space. My ceilings are 10 1/2 ft and I was only testing it at about 7 ft, so yes this light would be way to intense to use it at my displayed height for any extended length of time. Thanks for suggesting an alternate option for individuals who might be interested in something for their personal workshop area.
Go to the Parent Dashboard online-> Hit the “Gear Icon ⚙️” on the main page then -> Under “Additional Content” Select “Store” then -> “Manage Notifications Settings” -> There you can select to be notified via Email, Phone, Both or “I Don’t Want To Be Notified” I hope that helps…
I am not sure that there is a cap on the number of lights that you can control within the app. The most I’ve had in the app at any one time was 4 but that’s because I only had 1 pack installed.
Attempts to put it up.... cut.... 30 minutes later, finally installed. You can see it on his face. This is not one of the easiest flush mounted lights. Engineers grade C-
While I won’t argue your opinion regarding the ease of this install, I can definitively say it didn’t take 30 minutes to install. But the flush mounted aspect of this light certainly does present the most challenging part of the install. Thanks for watching and sharing.
Great vid. Usually in the industry I am in. We don’t use those cut off risers anymore. We use something called a swing joint. It helps take the tension off the pvc pipe when you run over it and if you need to raise it, you just dig it up and pull it up. I highly recommend you invest in that. One more thing is I don’t recommend going to your big box store to get sprinkler parts. Go to an irrigation supplier. They have much more than what the big box store has at a better price and better quality.
Those are two awesome suggestions, Thank You. I was told a similar thing by someone else regarding that swing joint… and I should definitely go to a specialty store next time.
I have flat wide feet and a very hard time finding shoes. I was able to finally figure out in the Jordan one I can wear a 12.5 but I normally wear a 13 in everything else. Would I be able to wear the Jordan 13's having flat wide feet?
Yes but they won’t fit nearly as comfortably as the 1’s do (imo) they are a bit more snug and the arch plate in the 13’s might have a negative impact on you if you have flat feet.
Maybe a dumb suggestion, make sure you thread the plumbers tape, so the sprinkler head doesn’t loosen the tape. The sprinkler head should tighter the plumbers tape. also you want 3-5layers depending on the thickness of the tape!! Hope this helps.
I don’t think it was a dumb suggestion at all, I do think I would be doing myself a disservice by applying it in the opposite direction of how the sprinkler will be installed. Yeah I put on 3 full layer of wrap but it turned out that wasn’t the problem… my riser was cracked and I needed to replace it.
That’s fair… I caused myself more trouble than it was worth trying to MacGyver my way through it instead of just replacing it like I did in the end. Thanks for the advice!
@@DetroneDoesIt It's the shine that's cringe... I think the right solution is re-upholstery with the material of your choosing (ie. leather, faux leather, etc...)
I’m a HUGE Lions fan… So much so, that I created a podcast all about the NFC North called “Headed North Podcast” Thanks for watching! Incase you’re interested 👇🏽Podcast Here ru-vid.com/group/PL_C7MidcNKuA7E9C6dCLPKd7-JrUpuaOV&si=UkZ83TsN4vLp0Tp4
I like it, but ... I can see every ripple in the drywall. What we've done is to smooth the painted drywall with a thin layer of Zinser 123 using a 1/4" roller cover. After that dried we did a light skim coat with Plus 3 drywall mud. We sanded that lightly with 220 grit sandpaper. We added another coat of Zinser 123, again with a 1/4" nap roller cover. Once dry we painted the final coat with Duration satin finish. The walls look like glass, nearly achieving a level 5 finish.
Whoa, thanks for sharing such great detail on your process. Can I ask what the Zinser 123 is suppose to do for the wall? On this project, it was my first time skim coating a wall smooth, so there were definitely some learning curves, but since I know my wife wants me to do this again I’d love to follow a proven method.
@@DetroneDoesIt Zinsser (I spelled it wrong before) works really good as a primer on a final skim coat prior to painting, but it's also good on old painted walls if your mud isn't sticking. What I like to do is roll on the Zinsser with a 3/8" nap. When It's dry I can look down the side of the wall with a light and see if I have low spots in the wall. Zinsser dries to an eggshell finish so it's really easy to see where more skim is needed. The other thing I like is that the dimples of the 3/8th nap in the dried Zinsser let's me put a very fine skim to fill in the dimples, without ruining the previous skim, making it a quick almost level 5 finish. I had such good luck with this (by trial and error) that my walls looked as smooth as glass making the satin finish almost glassy without being super shiny like semi-gloss. It is a bit tedious to do but the end result is nice, especially on walls that receive direct lighting from lights or a window. I really like to work thin layers of Zinsser and skim coat.
@@DetroneDoesIt One other thing I've found is that if you want a hard finish that can withstand traffic (kids, furniture hitting it etc) is that pressing the mud hard against the wall compacts the clay in the mud (do it only on the final skim because it's very hard to sand out) then do a paint coat of Glidden's SPRED Grab-n-Go (sold cheap at Walmart) and let that be you primer on the final skim prior to your finished paint coat with SW duration (if you want). I mean, the compacted final skim coat together with the Glidden makes it so you can't even sand it off (so make sure your final skim is good enough before you apply the Glidden).
When this happens in the future change it to a swing pipe elbow and swing pipe. It will allow the sprinkler to move if stepped on or ran over by a mower etc Much less likely to break. I tried adding links the the parts but RU-vid doesn’t like that haha
