Welcome to Northern Building Plastics, we are a market-leading independent stockist of low maintenance building materials in the UK. We stock a wide range of high quality products including; roofline, drainage, rainwater, soil & waste, window accessories, timber, insulation, Fortex cladding, Cedral Weatherboard, bathroom cladding, composite decking, sealants and consumables. Expert team, next day delivery, first class service… you’ll find everything you need at NBP!
You will if fitting on hips, but according to Easy Trim's installation instructions, they are not necessarily required on the ridge. For more information, you can view the Dry Ridge Kit and Hip Accessory Kit installation guides here: easy-trim.co.uk/storage/1566/entry-level-ridge-kit-installation-guide.pdf easy-trim.co.uk/storage/1616/hip-accessory-kit-installation-guide.pdf
The easiest way to do it is to fit the soffit first and then the fascia would simply slot into the end of the soffit and then be nailed securely in place with polytops.
Great content. I like the idea of the OSB facia first but wondering how high do you position the top of this above the rafters for slates? Can you still do this on a new build where some kind of over facia or eaves ventilation strips are required? Looks like 18mm OSB at 3:00 just not sure if the over fascia venta would nail into this end grain.
With the OSB fascia, you would position it between 25mm and 40mm above the rafter feet. In theory, there's no reason why you couldn't do this on a new build, but as you say, you might not be able to use over-fascia vents, in which case you'd have to implement a different method of ventilation, with products such as circular soffit vents, vented soffit, soffit vent strips or vented eavesguard.
Hi Rachel, I'm afraid we are just a stockist, we don't actually install the products ourselves and we no longer stock Cedral Lap in any case, we stock Hardie Plank now instead. Sorry not to be of any help to you.
The wooden rafters do look to be in good condition still mostly and the installers in this case have strengthened them by attaching pvc flat fascia noggins to the rafter feet. However, if some rafters have rotted, best practice is to cut back the affected area and bolt a new section of the same size treated timber to the rafter.
@@slowdown3787 Oh, we see now. Well, since the installers put a new breather membrane in, we don't believe it's necessarily essential for them to have put new wood sheeting in too. However, as we didn't undertake the job ourselves, it's hard to comment further on whether or not that was the best practice in this case.
I've had two union brackets where the clip has snapped off when trying to connect the gutter. I've only had success with the actual gutter brackets as they are much more flexible. TBH I'm not particularly happy with the constant return of union brackets for a replacement.
What they don't tell you is how to get the guttering ends into the union. I've tried everything and been trying to form one joint now for 2 hours. In the process the union got broken and had to be scrapped. Looking at the ends of the guttering, I can see a previous installer gave up and filed off part of the edge to try to get it in! Convenient that they don't deal with this nightmare, isn't it?
What profile do you use on top of windows and doors? With starting profile the gap will be too big, because of the forced angle from using a cut plank.
At the top of the window, you would use a starter ventilation strip, this allows you to carry on the run up the wall and get airflow in behind the planks.
Is there any advantage to using the straps to secure the battens to the rafters vs just screwing down thought the battens into the ridge with decent stainless steel screws? The straps just seem to be a bit of a waste of time, especially if retro fitting if you can just screw the battens to the ridge.
You could use a long screw to fix the battens in place, although with it being vital that extreme winds at the ridge do not pull the fixing out, we would recommend using the batten straps to provide a very secure fit.
@@nbpltd I fitted my new ridge a few weeks ago & I just used 120mm x 8mm landscaping hex head screws through two 25mm battens into to 9x2 ridge board & it's absolutely solid. The long thin stainless screws provided with the dry ridge system would definitely give way LONG before the 8mm landscaping screws. For my situation this way was a lot faster than messing on with straps but obviously every situation is different.
It’s actually a very well written and comprehensive book ru-vid.comUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 . I wanted to pair this with an updated book on local codes to start planning a post-retirement dream shop. I think I have just about everything I need between the two. The extra plans available for purchase towards the end are priced almost as much as full home plans, not little sheds however.
Depending on the pitch of the roof, the eaves should have continuous ventilation of 10mm or 25mm, which can be achieved with either over fascia vents, soffit vents, vented soffit or vented eavesguard.
Depending on the weight of the manhole base and quality of the ground sometimes a concrete blinding may be beneficial but in the majority of cases a concrete block and 10mm pipe beading will be more than adequate
For me, the ideas in ru-vid.comUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
"press all three clips firmly into place"... Except you can't because the union just bends! You have to push them down before fitting the next tile, and then force it into place under the already positioned clips!
