A Tech & Mechanical/Electronic LIFE SCIENTIST at heart. please Like, Subscribe & Share with your Friends
Firstly a huge thank you to all of those that have liked and subscribed to my channel of the last 15 years!
I am into anything that is programmable, challenging to assemble and set up and diagnose.
I you look through my video collection over the years I have everything from replacing cambelts, repairing motorcycles, configuring Wifi, firewalls to programming garage door remotes., Spa repairs, RC helicopter assembly setup and tuning and even flying lessons Even 3d Printing.
See you out there in cyberspace!
Thanks for viewing and please LIKE - SUBSCRIBE - SHARE... SHARE ...SHARE Cheers Shane Weastell - Westy
Děkuji za návod. Nevím zda jsou komentáře aktivní, ale zkusím se zeptat. Hrozí při prasknutí rozvodového řemene za jízdy u motoru 3S-FE, že se potkají písty s ventily a nastane destrukce motoru? Děkuji za serózní odpověď. 👍🇨🇿
Thanks. Yes it took me along time to figure it out myself. Back when I sorted this, there was not one solution. Glad this helps people :) hopes you liked and subbed to push it back up the list :)
Cheers for the feedback - hope you subbed and liked to get it out there. your question... Are you talking about the Knomi screen on the front of the Print head?
Yes sir had no idea where to source it not what it was i just started printing my parts for my very first Voron 2.4rev D . I'm utilizing the galieo 2 extruder, titanium backers going with sensorless homing , beefy idlers looking forwardto hearing neck from you ,@rent2ownnz
I have the clutch problem but i,ve never thought about this white thing around the cable thank you so much you explained the solution for me thanks a bunch
Any ideas why I do not se the "Tobii Enabled" button below the DCS WORLD. I selected the game in the binmt folder but it just doesn't show. In game it doesnt work. My overlay correctly tracks my eyes.
Idk if you will see this comment but if you do, i would appriciate help. The problem I have is that the Track IR column isnt showing in the DCS otions.
Hi, not sure if someone has the same issue. I have the same garage fob, but a few weeks after programming it's not working and I have to do the programming again. I even bought two and they both lost programming at the same time. Does anyone know what could be the reason?
This is likely my problem, my 3000 is a couple years old but has hardly been used! This video is helpful, and yah, looks like several others finding the same problem as well. I think this is what my issue is because I can bang on the side of it and it intermittently starts working with each bang, so this wire being busted would explain that.
I tore it down and as it turned out this wasn't the issue! It was a problem where the lug/spade type connectors mate the switch body to the stator housing and also make electrical connection there. These are not good connectors and tend to arc while in operation and after awhile get pitting and corrosion causing the connection to get too loose to make proper contact. One of the four on mine was really bad. I had to take a micro sized jewelers screwdriver and bend one-half of the connecter receptacle on the stator housing to make for a tighter fit when the pin was inserted. I also used a bit of contact cleaner. Works now, but this will likely re-occur at some point so I'm thinking about possible longer term solutions in the meantime.
Thanks so much for this content, and your cheat sheet. I have never put a 3dprinter together but decided to take on the Voron 2.4r2 with TAP, CB1,CAN and Rapido Hotend 2.LOL! Wish me luck! I did have issues following along when it got to getting the ebb 2209 into dfu mode. I had the manta m8p and ebb plugged into separate 5v sources, jumpers in place, but I could not get it into dfu mode. Finally I plugged the ebb into the usb port on the M8P , held the boot button in, press and released the reset button, ran the lsusb command and it worked. The only other thing i'm having issues with is getting the CB1 on wifi. I flashed both boards via ethernet. Thanks again for the info and all you do.
Did you change your mount for the canbus to toolhead again? looks different. i used the G2E umbilical mount like you did in part 2 but i found i had to loop the cable over to get it in lol, here it looks like youve changed it?
Are you meaning the Galileo 2 mount? or the one shown in this video? I changed the complete head over to G2 and made split system wiring loom ... but just after I had completed that, I found that there was a retainer that worked without any modification at all to my wiring. I call it learning to grow :)
Awesome mate! I am sure you will enjoy the learning curve. I made a few mistakes as you will see in the series, but all in all ... I am absolutely stoked with mine. oh ... and ou are welcome. Thanks for the like and sub!
@@rent2ownnz any extra "post" video advice? Being able to follow this in real time is going to be so helpful. I even went and bought the same-ish Allen key screwdrivers 🤣
I'm going through this step right now. With the M8P mounted it is not obvious, but the other (board-facing) side of the mount has countersunk holes. So prior to mounting the M8P to the mount, I'm screwing from the board side into the holes in the DIN clips, and the screws fit neatly into the countersinks. No drilling required. Still trying to divine which direction the clips should be oriented. Neither direction seems to center the M8P on the DIN rail. That probably means it doesn't matter, but symmetry.
@@rent2ownnz I'm pretty sure we've all assembled things upside-down or backwards, had to take things apart to fix a step we missed, etc. Hell, no project is complete for me until I've somehow drawn blood. Having this series to reference has saved me hours of figuring out what something should look like, confirming my interpretation of the manual, etc. That's no small thing. So take any of my comments as efforts to add to the effort.
What most probably happens here is that your stability controls are active and you are actively figting the FPS system. Try to hold the force trim button or disengage the FPS in the pedestal controls. You will find that you have very sensitive controls without this modification.
AAAnd just like that, I stand corrected. FPS off is also a lot easier to control with the curves you have suggested. This seems to apply at least to spring loaded HOTAS like the X52 that I have. I also would like to thank you for making me test this! Now I seem to have a lot more control over this bird.
I'm curious if you know the use for the little blue part that comes with the ECAS fitting? Most production printers have something like that as the top part of their ECAS (or equivalent) filament insert hole. But it doesn't seem to push-fit. Is that for some other use case?
Yes I do ! There are 2 versions of filament house part to print. one is for the ECAS fitting and the other is just to fit the Bowden tube ( but with larger internal ID than normally bowden tube
