VintageSpeed, we love old sh*t that goes fast! Bikes, Gassers, Diesel Performance, OBS Ford, Dodge, Cummins, 7.3, 5.9
Working on a lot of new content for the channel, including a great new Budget Street Rod project, with an EFI motor swap and lots of custom fabrication!
Ive got an 89 Ford F350 with 460 it's got to much back pressure and oil is blowing out and constantly out of time so im guessing thiis is where im going to be shortly. Is there anything I should do as well that you didn't do while you were there? And do you have the part numbers #?
thanks! flywheel is an 8 bolt (54/50/46) flywheel, clutch plate is a 10.5" coyote plate with an 11 spline 10.5" disc. cable operated to a 5.0 quadrant adapted to the stock pedal assembly. weird combo, works great.
I got my 2001 f250 donor. Going in a 1935 slant back ratrod. How much of the wiring harness do I need. Just the pcm to the engine? Would love to talk to you
cool, good luck with your project! the problem you're going to face is the ECM, the company i bought my tuning parts from is out of business. (Moates) you can still find some the hardware but i dont recall the name of the company that bought them. you'll need a J3 chip and the accompanying programmer chip for it, and the software. do some research on that. if you're using a manual trans it will be much easier because you dont need TCM so there are many ECMs available, just needs to support 10cyl ignition. injection is easy because they all pretty much support 10cyl. as far as circuits you need, all the basics; O2s, fans, IAC, TPS, MAF/IAT, MAP, ECT/CHT, coils/injectors. i ran my alternator just off ignition with a resistor inline, worked great. but you could also do ECM controlled. you could also use one of the unused inputs for logging WB. so, it's the same as any other swap, hard part is the 10cyl support. if you end up with Moates hardware LMK, i can send you my calibration (manual trans config). thanks for watching!
also, check into HPTuners, i dont know if they support that EEC/ECM, but if so that's also a great platform! i use HPT all the time on various projects, and it's pretty great. 👍
Excellent advice and truthful reporting on your progress! We’re not perfect. I am going into this process with some confidence and insight. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Having had both a 460 and 7.3, I admit I like the 460 more but I still liked my 7.3. The 460 felt almost like a muscle car and pulled anything the 7.3 could. Plus the 460 is way cheaper in purchase price and maintenance. 7.3 is the only diesel I'd buy though.
Awesome im looking for a rat rod shop truck bump side Ford truck project myself prefer a 68-71/72 sport custom or custom cab camper special trim truck.. and if not those trim trucks the horn ring chrome and the center cap steering wheel option, the chrome headliner trim and the door outer trim, and the upper and lower exterior trim package a ranger trim truck would be nice too..but they are pricey although with what I am looking to do all of the variations seem worth way more than the second gen dodge ram somewhat of a project truck i want to trade for one,, and if not for a ground squirrel it would be a running driving truck has some rust around the edges since it is a northern Ohio truck but it is way better than most of the second gen dodge trucks around the area im in...
Cool this bump side would be a neat project except the fact it would need the cab,bed and frame replaced... Although not sure where in the us you are i have seen a few decent Sport Custom bump side Ford trucks for sale on Facebook marketplace ...
1986 f250 with the 460. I've rebuilt the carb, and I've done cap, plugged, wires. Truck runs rich. Tough to start. Would the timing chain be a possible culprit?
This is great now that Banks has discontinued these. I was looking forward to doing this! EDIT: I found a set for manual transmission. I will have to make them work.
Is it absolutely necessary to place the S spring. I heard in forums it only benefits when its extremely slippery like mud or rain. Is this true, what would happen if I leave it out. Thnks
Did you have to do anything to your firewall to make it fit? I've been contemplating using an extra V10, ZF-6 4x4 drivetrain in my 77.5 and my biggest concern is the firewall and fitment
Just picked up a 94 F250 supercab long bed 4x4 460 tonight to swap my 1977 F250 supercab long bed body on to. Glad so many people out there have videos on OBS trucks. I know dentsides like the back of my hand but I don't remember much about OBS trucks because I only really messed around with em when I was a kid. My dad and grandpa both had 1994 F150 supercab short beds, grandpa still has his. They seem pretty similar to the dentsides but I'm sure I'll run into some head scratching. Really interested in those Banks headers? How did your buddy like em long-term?
No, if you're wanting more lockup, you don't increase the number of spacers for more preload. You remove the spacers and add an extra set of drive/driven discs per side (as I recall, with no spacers installed there's room for an extra set per side, but there might be room for more). That's better because it gives more clutch surface area, which gives more friction and therefore, more torque transfer. I had to replace the Ford 8.8 in my brother's 92 Bronco because the vent hose had broken, he got stuck in mud, and water/mud got in and he continued to drive it, not knowing the damage that was happening. He had an open 3.55 ratio, so when I bought a used replacement, I found a good deal on a 3.55 rear with the factory Traction-Loc limited slip. I bought a new set of discs from the dealer. In addition to installing them the logical way (drive-driven-drive-driven, etc, for more torque transfer) rather than the stock way which puts a couple of drive and/or a couple of driven discs together per side (or something like that), I removed the spacers and used the best looking discs that came with the stock differential in their place. Although it was no automatic locker, it actually performed quite well and was a very cost effective installation.
I feel like you done a phenomenal job onit I'm thinking about getting a 62 f100 unbody Long bed and going 5 speed manual but I'm also thinking about 4wheel drive with the manual 5speed and A V10 6.8 triton motor so I like your idea on how you are doing that motor ❤ I even thought about putting the motor in my 70 Ford Fairlane
thank you! yeah, the 6.8 is a great all around motor. very enjoyable to drive! and it fits pretty good in the bumpside engine bay. thanks for your comment. 👍
I asked the same question a few months ago. He said it he’s using the stock ECU. If you like this project, you may wanna check out Deboss and BIY’s v10 builds. I think Deboss Garage is planning on running a Holley system and I can’t remember what BIY is using
what are the main differences between the obs f250/350? 250 has dana 50 up front with 2.5" rear block where 350 has dana 60 front and rear with 4" block?
haha, it was pretty slow back then... 3.55s and no AE tuning, once i turned up the enrichment and swapped to 3.73s she really came to life in the short game. :)
update - truck is working great, it's my daily so i beat the hell out of it every day. it's run up to 135mph (allegedly) so far and lots and lots of 5600rpm burnouts. haven't had a single issue to report, changed the brake pads and regular oil changes. it needs a 4 link to be able to get the torque to the ground to launch it, just spins. thanks for all the questions and kind words! oh, i did swap the rear gears to 3.73 since this video was done, was 3.55s at that time. and it now has a one piece rear window, a little lower in the front and some other cosmetic stuff.
I just found your channel and there are a ton of great tips! I'm mostly interested in the OBS door panels you were working on. How did they turn out? Will you be doing anymore videos? Cheers from Texas!
better check it and see, '68+ (IIRC) was the year for the larger pan seal. depending on if your 289 block is original or not, it could certainly be a problem. good luck! fortunately, oil pans are cheap.
my truck has a crown vic front crossmember, so i modified some CV motor mounts. you may be able to use some F150 5.4 mounts with some modification. i also centered the middle cylinder over the crossmember for weight balance. you may have to play around with spacing to get it where you want it. took me about 2 weeks of staring at it and playing with positioning. good luck on your swap! 👍
Wait, a hotrod Ford V10? I can hear the detractors now: “BUT BUT BUT YOUR WEAK SPLIT-PIN CRANKSHAFT”!!!!!! I think people forget they installed these things in medium-duty trucks (btw, proud owner of a 2006 3-valver here)!
Looks like I need to borrow a 3/4 gun. My 1/2” ain’t cuttin it.. oh and MAV Gas! I’ve tried bfh so much too..Thanks for the inside video on this. Gives me a little more hope in my struggle!
depends on your shop i guess. 🤔 so far, my budget shafts have .003 - .005 runout, have proven themselves to 5500rpm burnouts and 135mph runs...so for now, so far so good. :) thanks for watching.
squarebody chevy. and on the '59 Apache i'm building right now, i used a spare F100 pedal assy i had laying around. worked well with a little trimming. thanks for asking!
Did you weld the mounts on centered or with the rack centered? I'm working on a '50 where they installed the mounts centered. This puts the rack about 1" to the passenger side. Turned GREAT to the Rt. but, like crap to the Lt. I get to fix By cutting off the mounts and moving them over.
the rack needs to be centered to the frame centerline, yes. the mounts themselves will not be evenly spaced, no. you want the joints of the tie-rods to be inline with the lower A arm pivots. at ride height both the A-arm and the tie rod/rack should be level to the ground. tack it all up first and dont finish weld any of the mounts until you test full travel/turn. you may also need to tilt the rack back to get proper angle on your steering linkage, and to clear motor mounts/etc. if i placed the rack wrong in the video, i apologize.
